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Our   Homrs 


AND 


HEIR    ADORNMENTS; 


OR, 


If  ow  to  JSuild,  finish,  furnish,  and  jtdorn  a  !f  ome, 


CONTAINING 

PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  BUILDING  OF  HOMES,  INTERIOR  DECORATION, 
WOOD    CARVING,  SOROLL  SAWING,  HOUSE   PAINTING,  WINDOW  HANGINGS, 
SCREENS,    CURTAINS,  WINDOW   GARDENING,    INCIDENTAL  DECORA- 
TIONS,   DECORATIVE-ART    NEEDLE-WORK,    AND    ECONOMIC 
LANDSCAPE    GARDENING;     TO   WHICH    IS    ADDED   A 
HOUSEHOLD    COMPENDIUM    OF   NEW,    PRAC- 
TICAL   AND    VALUABLE     RECIPES, 

THE   WHOLE   BEING   DESIGNED   TO   MAKE 


*1aht  W omes  foe.  Happy 


By  ALMON  C.  VARNEY, 

Supervising  Architect,  etc.,  Detroit,  Mich., 

ASSISTED    BY   THE   FOLLOWING    CORPS   OP   SPECIAL   CONTRIBUTORS : 

JOHN  H.  YOUNG,  Author  of  "Our  Deportment,"  etc,;  Mrs.  J.  M.  S.  HOLDEN,  Author 
of  Interior  Decoration  ;  CHAS.  E.  BENTLEY,  Author  of  Decorative  Needle- 
work; WILLIAM  BOYDELL,  Author  of  House  Painting;  JOHN 
SWIFT,  M.  S.,  Late  Professor  of  Horticulture  and  Land- 
scape Gardening,  Maine  Agricultural  College. 


ILLUSTRATED. 


J.  C.  CHILTON  &  CO.,  Publishers, 

DETROIT.  MICHIGAN. 


$ft 


«•'•■ 


t^^7 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  thB  year  1BB2, 

<Ks=*By  J,  C,  CHILTDN,  *s=h> 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington, 


We 


.^7 


<ls 


2 ESfc^i 3* 

-i ■+-►- 

TO   THE 


*&•" 


mBflfiKBfflWBb 


®- 


People  of  America. 

&j rn&< 


~©> 


[HI] 


[N  submitting  this  work  to  the  public,  the  Publishers 
think  it  not  amiss  to  state  that  the  contents  have  been 
j,  carefully  criticised   and   reviewed  by  competent   and 
%pp>|)s  conscientious  critics. 

To  the  authors  of  the  various   departments   much 
credit  is  due  for  the  successful  manner  in  which  they 
'        have  treated  the  topics  assigned  them. 
For  other  favors  and  information  not  otherwise  available 
special  thanks  are  due — 

To  Mr.  Chas.  E.  Bentley,  Designer  and  Manufacturer  of 
Decorative  Art  Needle-Work,  New  York;  Messrs.  Phillips  & 
Hunt,  Publishers  of  the  "People's  Cyclopedia,"  New  York:; 
The  American  Encaustic  Tiling  Co.,  New  York;  Messrs. 
Warren,  Puller  &  Co.,  Manufacturers  of  Artistic  W all- 
Papers,  New  York;  E.  T.  Barnum,  Manufacturer  of  Crest- 
ings,  etc.,  Detroit;  Messrs.  Mills  &  Barker,  Artistic  Furni- 
ture, Detroit;  A.  H.  Shipman,  Fret-Saw  Manufacturer, 
Rochester,  New  York. 

The  Publishers  take  no  small  degree  of  pride  in  present- 
ing a  work  which  furnishes  so  many  valuable  suggestions  on 
the  subject  of  Our  Homes  and  Their  Adornments,  and  they 
can  but  wish  that  it  will  greatly  assist  in  making  many 
HAPPY  HOMES  FOR  HAPPY  PEOPLE. 
[It] 


.^> 


i'/  > 


B^^^^^j^^g-S" 


HAT  grand  old  Saxon  word,  HOME,  has  for  ages 
hold  a  peerless  place  wherever  the  English  lan- 
guage is  spoken.  And  thus  do  we  find  it,  under 
every  zone,  embalmed  in  song,  cherished  in  the 
memory,  and  enshrined  in  the  heart! 

Too  much,  therefore,  can  scarcely  be  said  on 
such  a  theme,  nor  too  devoted  a  service  rendered  to  such  a 
cause.  And  knowing  as  we  do  how  largely,  in  this  country, 
Home  Life  influences  both  the  individual  and  the  State,  we 
come  to  present  the  offering  of  Our  Tribute  in  the  imperish- 
able form  of  a  book,  for  the  acceptance  and  appreciation  of 
a  Home-loving  people! 

The  object  of  this,  our  labor,  is  to  link — as  in  a  marriage 
He — this  venerable  and  comprehensive  word  "home"  with 
that  other  word  of  classic  mold,  but  of  modern  application, — 
"adornment."  And  with  the  whole-hearted  enthusiasm  of 
"match-makers,1"  we  sincerely  hope  and  believe  that  they 
will  be  found  to  be  not  "unequally  yoked." 

[v] 


vi  FEE  FACE. 

We  are  of  the  opinion  that  no  attempt  at  "  an  alliance'1''  of 
this  nature  has  ever  before  been  so  wisely  planned  and  bo 
successfully  consummated.  It  only  remains,  therefore,  for 
us  to  bid  a  universal  welcome  to  the  Bridal! 

The  homes  of  the  past  have  been  as  redolent  of  virtue 
and  affection  as  can  be  claimed  for  those  of  our  own  day; 
but  the  age  has  advanced  in  all  those  accessories  which  give 
to  modern  life  its  charm,  and  for  a  "  Home "  now  to  be 
without  "ts  "  Adornments,"  would  be  a  return  to  a  primitive 
condition  that  would  ill  accord  with  the  scale  and  quality 
of  social  existence  everywhere  around  us. 

The  volume  here  presented  comprehends  and  supplies, 
in  its  completeness,  this  felt  need  eminently  more  than  any 
hitherto  offered  to  the  public.  The  departments  it  covers 
embrace  the  whole  domain  of  "  Home  and  its  Adornments," 
from  the  most  enlightened,  cultivated,  and  reliable  sources 
possible. 

Under  the  firm  belief  that  "  a  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy 
forever,"  we  have  reason  to  expect  that  our  Home  Life  will 
become  radiated  with  a  brighter  glow,  from  the  Alliance  of 
Adornment  with  Domesticity ;  while  the  influence  of  such 
elements,  acting  as  a  Kindergarten,  will  daily  and  hourly 
impress  on  both  young  and  old  its  H  Object- Lessons  "  of  in- 
struction with  ever  softening  and  refining  influences. 

Economy,  which  holds  so  prominent  a  place  in  our  mod- 
ern household  administration,  finds  a  most  signal  recognition 
in  the  work  here  presented.  Eecipes  of  great  practical  value, 
are  lavishly  scattered  among  its  pages;  while  the  Useful,  as 
well  as  the  Ornamental,  has  in  each  Department  received  the 
most  particular  attention. 


PREFACE. 


vii 


"The  least  said,  the  soonest  mended,"  is  a  well-known 
proverb;  and  though  we  have  no  reason  to  fear  "  a  break- 
age "  among  any  of  the  numerous  articles  for  use  or  orna- 
ment cabineted  within  the  binding  of  this  volume,  yet  we 
would  on  no  account  exhaust  the  reader's  patience  with 
a  long  Preface.  Every  new  venture  expects  the  favoring 
breeze  of  popularity  to  carry  it  safely  into  port.  And  if  our 
numerous  friends  will  only  be  kind  enough  to  judge  of  this 
work  by  its  merits,  we  shall  then  have  no  fear  for  the  results. 

THE   PUBLISHEES. 


^        t 


-^sa^^fe-pM— 


e,©KTEiK/r©. 


-^ — »-ii— •> 


PART    ONE. 

^tantiinq,  ffiedvnf,  and  ZFini&fiinft  cfrConwb. 

CHAPTER  I. 

General  Considerations. — Ideal  Homes. — Renting  and  Pur- 
chasing.— Contracting  the  Work. — Paying  for  Homes 
Gradually - 25 

CHAPTER  II. 

How  to  Plan  a  House. — Hints  as  to  How  to  Proceed. — 
Kinds  of  Lumber  to  Use. — Suggestions  Worth  Noting. 
— Painting 30 

CHAPTER  III. 

Ornamentation. — Appearance  of  a  House. — Secret  of  At- 
tractive Buildings. — The  Place  to  Put  Ornaments. — 
Little  Expense  with  Good  Results. — The  Front  En- 
trance. —  Portico.  —  Beauty  of  Outline.  —  Cornice.  — 

Gable 36 

[viii] 


CONTENTS.  ix 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Buildings  of  "Wood,  their  Economy. — Kinds  of  Wood  to 
Use. — Erecting  the  Building. — Direction  Therefor. — 
Rendering  Wooden  Buildings  "Warm. — Back  Plaster- 
ing.— How  to  Make  a  "Wooden  Dwelling  Nearly  Fire- 
Proof  39 

CHAPTER  V. 

Durable  Floors. — A  Better  Plan  for  Floors  Suggested. — 
Open  Joints  and  How  to  Prevent  Them. — Inside  Fin- 
ish.— The  Best  Woods  and  How  to  Use  Them. — Pre- 
vention of  Swelling  in  Lumber 45 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Staircases. — Directions  for  Buildings — New  Style  of  Ban- 
isters.— Bear  Staircase. —  Hard  Woods. — Black- Wal- 
nut.—  How  to  Finish  a  House  in  Hard  Wood. — 
Veneering  Hard  Woods 51 


*© 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Something  more  Durable. — Brick  and  Stone  Houses.  — 
Their  Cost. — Veneer  Brick  and  Stone  Work. — How 
to  Prevent  Brick  Walls  from  Sweating. — Stone  Trim- 
mings for  Brick  Houses 57 


*s 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Valuable  Suggestions  and  Rules. — Methods  of  Estimating 
Work  and  Material. — How  to  Find  the  Amount  of 
Lumber  Necessary  to  Erect  a  Given  Building. — Prices 
of  Labor . 61 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


House  Painting. — Its  Philosophy. — Best  Time  to  Paint. — 
Kinds  of  Paint. — Colors. — Mixing. — Oils  and  Driers. — 


Applying  Paints. — Priming. — Second  Coat. — Finishing 
Coat. — Brushes. — General  Suggestions. — Inside  Paint- 
ing.— Varnishing. — Graining.  —  Graining  Tools.  —  The 
Ground. — Graining  Colors. — Oil-Finish 65 


e> 


CHAPTER    X. 

Descriptions  and  Specifications  Continued. — Lathing  and 
Plastering. — Carpenter  Work. — Tin  Roofs. — Crestings 
and  Finials. — Doors,  Windows,  Blinds,  and  Shutters. — 
Inside  Finish. — Main  Room  and  Kitchen. — Plumbing. 
— Glazing. — Storm  Doors 76 


*s 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Heating  and  Ventilation. — Open  Fire-Places. — Grates  and 
Furnaces — Steam  Heating. — How  to  Ventilate. — Im- 
pure Air. — Nature's  Disinfectants 91 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Situation  and  Surroundings. — Selecting  a  Healthy  Site. — 
How  to  Secure  Good  Drainage. — Pure  Water. — Danger 
from  Stagnant  Pools. — How  a  House  Should  Front. — 
Sunshine. — Its  Value. — Shade  Trees 97 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

The  Primitive  House.  —  Our  Noble  Ancestors.  —  Modern 
Residences. — How  to  Build  a  House  and  Make  Addi- 
tions to  It. — A  Simple  Cottage. — Design  I.  (5  illustra- 
tions.)        102 


CONTENTS.  xj 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

An  Attractive  Cottage  Home  for  People  with  Small  Means. 
— How  Constructed. — The  Cost. — How  to  Paint  It. — 
Design  II.     (2  illustrations. ) \ Ill 

CHAPTER    XV. 

A  Neat,  Symmetrical  Story-and-a-half  House  at  Moderate 
Cost. — Description  of  Its  Arrangement. — Its  Advan- 
tages over  a  One-story  House. — Some  Novel  Features. 
— Design  III.  (3  illustrations). — Design  IV.  (2  il- 
lustrations.)    115 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Story-and-a-half  houses  Continued. — A  House  that  Will 
Admit  Sunlight  to  Every  Room. — Appearance  Made 
Subordinate  to  Arrangement  of  Rooms. — An  Excellent 
Floor    Plan. — Design   V     (2    illustrations) 125 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

A  Rural  Cottage  Home. — A  Plan  that  Combines  Convenience 
and  Beauty. — Simple  Adornments  that  Add  to  Comfort. 
— Perspective  View  of  a  Picturesque  Gothic  House. — 
Design  VI.  (2  illustrations) — Design  VII.  (with  il- 
lustration.)   ;. 128 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

More  Durable  Material. — A  Solid  Gothic  House. — Style, 
not  New  but  Popular. — Description  of  the  Plans — Cost 
of  Erection. — Design  VIII.  (3  illustrations.) — Exten- 
sive Farm  Residence  and  Bam. — Design  IX.  (2  illus- 
trations.)     132 


xii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

An  Elegant  Brick  Residence. — Comfort  and  Beauty  Com- 
bined.— Description  of  Plan,  Materials,  and  Construc- 
tion.— Design  X.  (2  illustrations.) — A  Modern  Villa. 
— Design  XL     (with  illustration.) 138 

CHAPTER    XX. 

How  to  Build  a  Summer  Cottage. — Cheap,  but  Attractive 
Houses  in  the  Hot  Season. — How  to  Build  a  Rustic 
Arbor. — A  Few  Suggestions  on  Beautifying  the  Sur- 
roundings with  Little  Expense 143 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Alterations  and  Additions. — Old  Houses  Made  New. — 
Caution. — Improving  Roofs  and  Gables. — Remodeling 
Windows _ 149 

CHAPTER    XXn. 

Outhouses. — Some  Practical  Suggestions. — How  to  Have  Ice 
all  the  Summer. — An  Ice-House  Preservatory. — Plan 
for  a  Cheap  but  Excellent  Farm  and  Carriage  Barn 157 


PART    TWO. 

ctfwm  fftnftfoytmnfo  fol  Voun^  and  (DM. 

CHAPTER  I. 

A  Manual   of  Fret   Sawing. — Practical  Lessons  with  Illus- 
trations.— Finishing  up  the  Work. — Use    of    Saws. — 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

Sawing    Metals. — Useful    Articles. — Saws    and    their 
Prices    165 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  Art  of  Wood  Carving. — Its  Origin  and  History. — The 
Tools  and  their  Uses. — Ornaments  that  May  be  Made. 
— How  Amateurs  May  Learn  the  Art. — Directions  for 
First  Attempts. — A  Study  of  Nature  Necessary  in 
order  to  Appreciate  the  Art  in  Wood  Carving 177 

CHAPTER  III. 

Landscape  Gardening. — General  Rules  and  Observations 
Applicable  to  the  Improvement  of  Small  Lots  from 
One-Sixteenth  to  One-Half  Acre  in  Area. — Errors  of 
Common  Occurrence. — Style  of  Gardening. — Exposure 
and  Location. — Grading  and  Terracing 183 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Special  Features. — Drives  and  Walks. — Varieties  of  Shrubs, 
Trees,  and  Flowers  to  Use. — Laying  out  and  Making 
Walks  and  Drives. — Easy  Methods  of  Laying  out 
Drives. — Grouping  and  Planting 193 

CHAPTER  V. 

Tree  Planting. — The  Best  Time  to  Plant. — How  to  Plant. — 
Removing  and  Planting  Large  Trees. — How  to  Select. 
— A  Good  List. — Care  of  Trees  and  Success  in  their 
Culture. — Fences. — Kinds  and  their  Style. — How  to 
Make  them  Ornamental -  -    202 


xiv  bONTENHS. 

PART    THRBB. 

Jntetwi   dctotation,  ol  -How  to  Jffafo  out  ztfomte 

zBwutifuf. 

CHAPTER  I. 

•Interior  Decoration.  —  General  Considerations.  —  Objects 
Aimed  at,  and  Extent  of  Decoration. — How  to  Beau- 
tify Walls  and  Ceilings. — Wall-Papers. — How  to  Select 
the  Best 213 

CHAPTER  II. 

'Hints  on  the  Choice  of  Papers. — What  Shades  to  Select. 
— Harmony  of  Colors. — Selecting  Paper  for  Different 
Rooms.— The  Dado 219 

CHAPTER  III. 

flow  to  Hang  Wall-Papers. — Simple  Instructions  for  Every- 
body.— Sizing  the  Walls. — Amount  of  Paper  in  a  Roll. 
— How  to  Cut  and  Match  the  Paper. — Paste  for  Wall- 
Paper 226 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Recent  Improvements  in  Needle- Work. — Usefulness  now  a 
Prominent  Feature. — List  and  Description  of  Materi- 
als.— Prices.— Bead    Work 230 

CHAPTER  V. 

Embroidery  Stitches. — Descriptions  of  the  Best  Stem  Stitch. 
—  Blanket  Stitch. — Chain  Stitches. — Herring-Bone,  But- 
ton-Hole, and  Satin  Stitch. — Kensington  Outline. — 
Janina. — Blanket. — Designs  for  Borders  and  Centers. 
—The  New  Plush  Stitch 233 


CONTENTS.  Xv 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Practical  Designs.  —  Embroidery  Patterns. — An  Elegant 
Pincushion.  —  Silk  Counterpane  and  Cover. — Tatted 
Doyley. — Design  for  Linen  Embroidery .   242 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Some  Elegant  Designs. — Embroidered  Rocking-Chair  Cover 
— A  Work-Apron. — Designs  for  Elegant  Glass  Mir- 
rors.—  New  Style  of  Splasher.  —  Bead  Embroidered 
News-Rack. — Handsome  Table-Cover. — A  Piano  Scarf 
in  Plush  Applique  Work 249 

CHAPTER  VHI. 

Hangings  for  Doors,  Halls,  and  Windows. — How  to  Make 
them  and  of  What  to  Make  them. — Elegant  Effects  at 
Small  Cost. — How  to  Use  the  Odds  and  Ends  in  Ren- 
dering the  House  more  Beautiful. — Cost  of  Materials. .   259 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Screens. — How  to  Make  them. — Materials. — How  to  Use 
Screens  to  Advantage. — Ebonizing  Wood. — Painted 
Screens. — How  to  Use  Discarded  Material  to  Advan- 
tage in  Covering  Panels  for  Screens. — Embroidered 
Screens. — How  to  Make  the  Frames 266 


CHAPTER  X. 

Embroidered  Screens. — Japanese  Piecework. — A  Patriotic 
Screen. — The  Uses  of  Old  Material. — A  Queer  Use  for 
an  Old  Clothes-Horse. — Lambrequins. — Tables. — Cabi- 
nets.— Odd   and  Ends. — Use  up  the  Pieces 272 


Xvi  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Some  New  Designs  in  Embroidery. — Lambrequin  and  Cur- 
tains.— Materials  to  Use,  and  How  to  Construct. — An 
Elegant  Sofa  Pillow. — A  New  Applique  Design. — 
Lace  Lambrequin , 282 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Furnishings. — The  Hall. — Its  Impression  upon  Visitors. — 
The  Parlor. — Diniug-Room. — How  to  Furnish  them  at 
Reasonable  Cost. — Home-Made  Mantels,  Rugs,  Carpets, 
etc 285 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Bed-Rooms. — How  to  Make  them  Cheerful,  Comfortable, 
and  Healthful.  —  Bed-Room  Furniture. — Cheap  but 
Useful  Furniture. — How  to  Make  a  Bed  Room  Table. 
—Wash-Stand  with  Drapery 294 


PART    FOUR. 

zFfie  (£cUv,  fyiftulv,  and  ffiofwyation  of  fffowUb. 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Culture  of  Flowers, — How  to  Have  Thriving  Plants 
and  Abundance  of  Flowers. — Useful  Suggestions. — 
How  to  Construct  and  Manage  Hot-Beds  and  Flower- 
Beds '. 303 

CHAPTER  II. 

Description  of  Varieties.' — A  List  of  Bulbs,  with  Methods  of 
Treatment. — Climbers. — Annuals.  — Varieties  Suitable 
for  all  Purposes 311 


CONTENTS.  xvji 

CHAPTER  III. 

Window  Gardening. — How  to  Have  Flowers  all  Winter. — 
Best  Varieties  for  Winter  Use. — How  to  Care  for  the 
Flowers. — Their  Arrangement  in  the  Window 327 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Preserving  Natural  Flowers. — An  Art  worth  Knowing. — 
How  to  Keep  Natural  Flowers  for  a  Long  Time. — Pre- 
serving by  tha  Sand  Process. — The  Sulphur  Process. — 
Preserving  Bridal  and  Funeral  Flowers. — An  Elegant 
Art. — Arrangement  of  Flowers 333 


P&UT    FI¥B. 

JlfPUceffcmwub  §vcolati-w  JliU  fol  tfiv  jfome. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Brush  and  Pigment. — Painting  in  Oil  and  Water  Colors. — 
Full  Instructions  for  Both. — Panel  Painting. — Painting 
Plaques  and  Vases. — An  Elegant  Art. — Beautifying 
the  Home. — A  New  Ware  for  Painting. — Oil  Colors  on 
Silk,  Satin,  and  Plush. — Water  Colors. — Bowl  Paint- 
ing   339 

(  HAPTER  II. 

Crystal  Ainbrotvpes,  or  Photo-Enamel. — How  to  Paint 
Photographs.  —  Explicit  Directions  for  the  Painting. — 
Materials  and  their  Use. — Decalcomania,  or  the  Art  of 
Transferring  Pictures. — Transferring  Pictures  to  Wood, 
Stone,  Glass,  Silk,  Satin,  etc. — Easy  and  Inexpensive 

Ways  of  Decorating 345 

3 


xviii  CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER  III. 

Something  Novel  in  Embroidery. — Fish  Scales. — How  to 
Make  Bags  and  Sachets. — Cover  for  a  Baby's  Crib. — 
Oval  Frames  for  Photographs. — Baskets. — A  Kitchen 
Table  Transformed  into  a  Library  Table.^-How  to 
Make  Bugs. — Sheepskin  Bugs 349 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Encaustic  Tiles. — Their  Durability.— How  to  Use  them. — 
Paving  Hearths.  —  Cost.  —  Mantels.  —  How  to  Get 
them. — 'Cabinets. — Home  Decoi'ation  of  Tiles. — Lin- 
crust  a -"Walton    >55 

CHAPTER  V. 

Dyeing  and  Bleaching. — Dyeing  Cotton. — How  to  Treat  the 
Fabrics. — Directions  for  all  Leading  Colors. — Dyeing 
Woolens. — Aniline  Colors. — Coloring  Straw  Hats. — 
How  to  Make  Mordants.—"  Sour." — Dye  for  Feathers. 
— Bleaching  Sponge. — To  Whiten  Lace. — Bleaching 
Straw  Goods.— Cleaning  Ostrich  Feathers. — Bleaching 
Ivory,  Prints,  and  Printed  Books. — Washing  Fluid   . .   360 


PART    SIJ<S^» 

cffiou&e/iofd  (fromficndium  of  JYbw  and   Vafuaffe 

I. 

Hints  on  Health. — Hints  on  Home  Decoration. — Use- 
ful Toilet  Recipes.  —  Varnishes.  —  Paints.  —  Staining 
Woods. — Cleaning'  and  Scouring. — Cleaning  Fabrics. — 
Cements. — Benewing  Old  and  Defaced  Manuscripts. — 
Recipes  for  Making  Colored  Inks. — Lead  Exploding. — 


CONTENTS, 


xix 


To  Keep  Wagon  Tires  on  the  Wheels.— The  U.  S. 
Government  Tempering  Secret. — U.  S.  Mint  Test  for 
Counterfeit  Silver 377 

II. 

HOUSEKEEPER'S  MANUAL  OF  COOKING. 

Kitchen  Utensils. — Soups. — How  to  make  them.- — Fish. 
— Directions  for  Cooking. — Poultry  and  Game. — Lashes 
and  Gravies. — Meats. — Salads,  Sauces,  and  Pickles. — 
Relishes.  —  Puddings.  —  Pies.  —  Custards.  —  Bread.  — 
Cakes. — Ices. — Preserving  and  Canning  Fruits. — Bev- 
erages.— Giving  Dinners. — Table  Etiquette. — Invita- 
.    tions. — Bills  of  Fare 417 

General  Index 485 


(se&je 


-^VOTT^^ 


List  ol  Illustrations. 

^5J01»- 


I'AGK. 


FIG. 

1.  Sash  Ventilation  for  Dwelling  Houses 95 

2.  The  Log  Cabin. - ...-   103 

3.  A    Cheap     Prairie     Cottage.       Cost,    under    $50.' 

Ground  Plan. 105 

4.  Elevation  Plan  op  Same. 106 

5.  The  Same  Enlarged 107 

6.  The    Same   Transformed    into    Convenient   House. 

Ground  Plan. 108 

7.  Elevation  Plan  of  Same. 109 

v8.     Attractive  Cottage   Home    on    Economical   Scale. 

Cost  $600.     Ground  Plan. 112 

9.     Elevation  Plan  of  Same. 113 

10.  Story-and-a-half  House  for  City  Eesidence.     Cost, 

$1300.     Ground  Plan 116 

11.  Chamber  Plan  of  Same.  . . 117 

1 2.  Elevation  Plan  of  Same. 119 

13.  Another  Style  for  Story-and-a-half  House.     Cost, 

|900.     Ground  Plan 122 

14.  Elevation  Plan  of  Same. 123 

15.  Story-and-a-half     Suburban     Residence.       Cost, 

$1600.     Ground  Floor 126 

16.  Elevation  Plan  of  Same. 126 

.17.     A    Rural    Cottage    Home.     Cost,    $1500.     Ground 

Floor. 129 

18.  Elevation  Plan  op  Same. 129 

19.  Modern    Gothic    Roof     Story-and-a-half     House. 

Cost,  $1700.     Elevation  and  Perspective. 130 

20.  Substantial     Gothic     Dwelling.         Cost,     $5000. 

Ground  Floor 133 


[XX] 


ILL  USTEA  TIONS.  xxi 

21.  Chamber  Floor  of  Same 134 

22.  Elevation  Plan  of  Same.  ..' 134 

23.  Extensive   Farm   Residence,  with  Barn   and   Out- 

buildings.    Ground  Plan  and  Second  Floor.  . .   136 

24.  Elevation  and  Perspective  of  Same.. 136 

25.  Elegant     Brick    Residence. — A     City     Erection. 

Cost    $5000.  First  Floor  Plan. 1 40 

26.  Elevation  And    Perspective  of  Same 140 

27.  Elegant     Modern     Villa.      Elevation    and     Per- 

spective  142 

28.  Ornamental  Iron  Castings  for  Roofs,  Gables,  Etc.  151 

29.  The    Same 152 

30.  The    Same 153 

31.  Attractive  Designs  for  Windows 154 

32.  The    Same 155 

33.  Plan  for  Ice  House  and  Preservatory  Combined.  158 

34.  Farm  and  Carriage  Barn  Combined.     Ground  Plan.  1 60 

35.  Elevation  of  Same. 161 

36.  Plan  of  Carriage  Drive  in  Ornamental  Grounds. 

Egress   and   Ingress 197 

37.  Ornamental   Fence 20i> 

38.  Frieze  Pattern  Designed  by  John  Leighton,  F.  S. 

A.,    London. . _   225 

39.  The  Same.  Fred  Beck,  New  York 225 

40.  The  Same.  Lewis  C.  Tiffany,  New  York.. 225 

41.  Design  for   Banner   Screen 239 

42.  43.     Two  Embroidery  Patterns 243 

44.  Embroidered  Pincushion. 244 

45,  46.     Two  Silk  Counterpanes 245 

47.  Tatted    Doyley 246 

48.  Embroidered  Tidy  on  Linen  Crash 247 

49.  Elegant  Rocking-Chair 249 

50.  Embroidered  Work-Apron 250 

51.  Hair    Receiver... 251 

52.  53.     Two   Mirrors 252,  253 

54.  New   Style  of  Splasher 253 

55.  News  Rack 253 

56.  Three-Cornered  Table. 254 

57.  Applique  Piano  Scarf. 256 

58.  Table  Scarf  in  Darned  Work 2.~>7 

59.  .  Three-Panel  Screen 267 

60.  Embroidered  Banner  Screen. 275 

61.  Handsome  Lambrequin 276 


xxii  ILL  USTBA  Tl  OXS. 

62.  Ornamental  Table-Cover 278 

63.  Hall  Mirror  and  Hat  Hack  Combined.  286 

64.  Hat,  Coat,  and  Umbrella  Rack.   . 287 

65.  Easy  Reading  or  Library  Chair.  ..      . 289 

6Q.     Rocker,  The  Same 290 

67.  Useful  and  Graceful  L  ;unge.  .    291 

68.  Hassock  on  Castors , 292 

69.  Bed-Room  Furniture. 295 

70.  Wardrobe  Bedstead ...   296 

71.  Bedstead  with  Drapery. 297 

72.  Elegant  Folding  Chair. . . .   2'.».v 

73.  Wash-Stand  with   Drapery. 299 

74.  Water-Lilies 324 

75.  Wire  Flower-Stand. 328 

76.  Bay-Window. :   329 

77.  Reflected  Floral  Decoration. '. ..    _   330 

78.  Group  of  Scroll-Saw  Decorations.   331 

79.  Lessons  in  Scroll  Sawing,  No.  1 340 

8Q.     The  Same.     No.  2 341 

81.  The  Same.     No.  3 -    341 

82.  The  Same.     No.  4.   342 

83.  The  Same.     No.  5.   ........   344 

84.  The  Same.     No.  6.    344 

85.  86,    87.     Instructions  in  Fine  Combinative  Work.  34s 
88,  89,  90,  91.  Escutcheons  for  Key-Hole  Ornaments.  348 

92.  Hand  Scroll  or  Fret  Saw 350 

93.  Tools  Employed  in  Wood  Carving.  6  Illustrat'ns.  353 

94.  A  Design  for  Practice 353 

95.  96.     Carving  a  Wall  Pocket. .  .  .        .   358 

97.  Carving  a  Book  Rack. .  .  359 

98.  Carving  a  Bread  Platter. ....  360 

99.  Carving  a  Paper  Knife.  . . : . .    361 

100.  Carving  a  Bracket - .    361 

101.  Carving  a  Molding. 361 

102.  Cooking  Range ......    41 8 


7j5~ 


m  m  I 


I )  Hi  EL 


\h 


^ 


N 


Homes. 


y 


When  we  mean  to  build, 
We  first  survey  the  plot,  then  draw  the  model ; 
And  when  we  see  the  figure  of  the  house, 
Then  must  we  rate  the  cost  of  construction : 
Which,  if  we  find  outweighs  ability, 
What  do  we  then,  but  draw  anew  the  model 
In  fewer  offices  ;  or  at  least,  desist 
To  build  at  all. 

— King  Hexrt  IV.,  Part  II,  Act  I,  Scexe  3. 


[24] 


CxFI^F'TRR  I. 


GENERAL    CONSIDERATIONS. —  IDEAL    HOMES.  —  RENTING   AND 
PURCHASING.  —  CONTRACTING   THE   WORK. 


-°oj«<oc^ 


OME. — This  word  to  most  of  us  possesses  deep 
significance.  With  what  reverence  do  we  look 
back  to  the  home  of  our  childhood,  now  em- 
balmed in  memory  as  our  heart's  dearest  treas- 
ure !  Not  a  home,  do  we  mean,  surrounded  with 
all  the  luxuries  of  life,  but  one,  even  though 
humble,  where  there  was  "plenty  and  to  spare." 
The  old  home,  with  father  and  mother  and  its 
stores  of  plenty,  did  not  quite  content  us;  we 
felt  a  spirit  of  unrest  taking  possession  of  us. 
Then  we  were  unable  to  appreciate  our  blessings 
as  we  do  now,  looking  back  to  them  in  the  light  of  a  riper 
experience.  Points  and  objects  that  failed  to  attract  us 
then,  are  now  so  many  shrines  at  which  we  do  homage, 
and  as  we  achieve  success  or  meet  failure,  our  minds  revert 
to  the  old  home  with  its  precious  memories. 

Our  ideal  home  is  not  like  the  home  of  our  youth;  it 
is  one  that  is  to  meet  the  wants,  as  far  as  our  means  will 
allow,  of  our  own  households,  enabling  us  to  enjoy  that  com- 

[25] 


26  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

fort  and  independence  that  can  never  be  appreciated  by 
those  whose  thought  is  of  to-day,  and  who  let  the  morrow 
care  for  itself. 

To  our  mind  there  is  nothing  more  ennobling  than  the 
united  efforts  of  young  married  people  directed  to  the 
acquisition  of  a  home.  They  may  be,  as  the  majority  are, 
possessed  of  limited  means;  but  good  health,  temperate 
habits,  and  frugal  saving  of  earnings,  though  small,  will 
enable  them  to  purchase  or  build  a  cottage  and  adorn  it. 
There,  when  the  cares  of  the  day  are  over,  beneath  their 
"oavii  vine  and  fig-tree,"  they  can  recount  the  successes  of 
the  past,  and  plan  for  the  future. 

The  work  done  by  our  own  hands,  ami  the  money  our 
own  sweat  has  earned,  are  to  us  a  source  of  peculiar  pride 
and  satisfaction.  So  a  home,  earned  by  the  concerted  efforts 
of  husband  and  wife,  will  possess  a  charm  far  greater  than 
if  they  come  in  possession  of  it  by  heirship.  More  precious 
because  of  its  association  with  their  struggles  with  necessity. 

The  great  trouble  is  that  the  young  people  of  to-day  are 
not  willing -to  commence  so  far  down  the  scale;  thev  cannot 
be  content  with  such  an  humble  beginning  as  their  parents 
made;  and  instead  of  commencing  a  home  soon  after  mar- 
riage, they  rent  and  furnish  a  house  in  extravagant  style, 
often  spending  enough  in  furnishing  to  pay  for  a  home  of 
comfortable  size.  All  this,  Ave  remark,  is  done  with  the 
plea  of  economy.  They  promise  to  build  when  they  have 
means  enough.  We  who  have  traveled  the  path  so  often, 
can  see  their  mistake.  A  false  pride  has  prevented  them 
from  accepting  humbler  quarters,  from  whence  in  a*  few 
years  the}'  might  have  gone  out  to  wealth  and  even 
opulence. 


t  * 


BJENTINO  AND  PURCHASING.  27 

How  many  instances  have  we  met  of  those  who  have 
rented  and  fitted  up  the  house  of  a  close  landlord,  hoping 
at  no  distant  day  to  be  able  to  pay  for  a  home  of  their  own ; 
but  month  after  month,  and  year  after  year,  the  rent  bill 
absorbs  the  savings,  until  they  have  paid  out  as  much  as 
would  be  required  either  to  pay  for  a  house,  or  secure  one 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  gradually  brought  into  their  full 
possession  by  frugal  savings  and  payments. 

In  our  opening  chapter  we  cannot  forbear  offering  a 
word  of  encouragement  to  persons  of  small  means  seeking 
homes,  for  we  know  well,  from  actual  experience,  what 
small  earnings,  carefully  saved  and  judiciously  expended, 
will  do  in  this  direction. 

One  need  not  have  too  much  fear  in  incurring  a  safe 
amount  of  debt  on  a  home  when  there  is  a  constant  saving 
going  on,  and  a  gradual  reduction  of  the  principal  can  be 
made.  We  wish,  however,  to  caution  all  against  one 
serious  mistake, — many  times  the  plan  of  the  house  and 
cost  of  the  same  are  not  definite  enough,  and  the  home  that 
was  intended,  under  no  circumstances,  to  exceed  in  cost  the 
sum  of  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  -is  found  very  incomplete 
when  that  amount  has  been  expended,  and  it  is  found,  when 
too  late,  that  the  cost  will  be  fully  two  thousand  dollars. 

It  is  then  found  that  the  loan,  which  could  have  been 
secured  on  the  premises  for  the  first  amount  named,  at  a 
low  rate  of  interest  with  easy  terms  of  payment,  will  be 
hard  to  obtain  for  the  larger  amount ;  and  should  the  loan 
lie  secured  for  this  last  amount,  it  will  necessarily  be  at  a 
higher  rate  of  interest;  hence  the  risk  of  paying  off  the  debt 
is  greater. 

Misfortune,   dull  business,  or  sickness,  may  curtail  the 


t> 


28  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

earnings,  and  the  result  will  be  inability  to  meet  payments 
of  interest  and  on  principal,  and  the  ghost  of  foreclosure  of 
mortgage  haunts  the  homestead.  After  a  struggle,  perhaps 
of  many  years,  the  unfortunate  owner  is  obliged  to  give  up, 
and  with  wife  and  family  seek  more  humble  quarters  with 
monthly  rental. 

We  present  this  picture  to  place  all  of  small  means  on 
their  guard.  Be  sure  not  to  build  too  large;  know  what 
the  cost  to  complete  the  home  will  be  before  commencing. 
It  is  better  to  live  in  a  rented  house  than  to  go  through  the 
anxiety,  annoyance,  trouble,  and  disappointment  of  almost 
paying  for  a  home  and  then  seeing  it  taken  from  you,  your 
labor  lost,  and  your  earnings  swept  away. 

This  state  of  affairs  need  not  occur,  except  in  rare 
instances,  if  anything  like  a  reasonable  amount  of  fore- 
thought and  good  judgment  is  exercised.  The  usual  way, 
and  the  best  way,  for  people  of  only  moderate  means  to 
build  anything  of  much  cost,  and  be  sure  of  a  knowledge  of 
the  sum  total  when  completed,  is  to  contract  the  work  for  a 
given  sum;  and  if  for  a  house  of  not  much  pretension,  the 
better  way  is  to  have  a  plan,  if  possible,  from  some  architect 
of  known  ability  and  of  a  good  reputation.  He  can  em- 
body in  his  plan  even  every  little  thing  about  a  house,  from 
a  sliding  door  down  to  a  set  of  drawers  in  the  kitchen 
pantry,  or  cleats  and  shelves  in  the  closets,  thus  obviating 
the  risk  of  the  builder's  never-failing  desire  to  run  up  a 
heavy  bill  of  "extras"  on  the  completion  of  the  job,  as  too 
many  of  them  try  to  make  it  larger  than  it  should  be  for 
the  amount  of  work  done. 

In  the  larger  cities  and  towns  where  the  services  of  a 
good  architect  can  be  had,  it  is  always  advisable  to  employ 


CONTRACTING  THE  WORK.  29 

one,  at  least  to  do  the  planning  and  preparing  of  the  contract 
and  specifications  for  letting  the  work,  if  not  for  superin- 
tending. A  good  set  of  plans  and  specifications,  carefully 
executed,  can  be  followed  even  by  a  man  comparatively  un- 
accustomed to  such  things,  with  sufficient  precision  to  dis- 
cover any  great  variation  the  contractor  might  try  to  make 
in  the  building.  But  for  buildings  of  much  pretension  there 
is  no  better  evidence  of  the  benefits  of  a  good  plan  and  super- 
intendency  of  the  work  from  day  to  day  as  it  progresses, 
by  a  competent  architect,  than  the  fact  that  in  large  cities 
there  are  men  known  as  "building  speculators,"  who  do  not 
build  without  definite  plans  and  usually  superintendents. 
But  for  the  majority  who  will  read  this  book,  and  whom  we 
hope  in  a  measure  to  assist,  in  the  smaller  cities  and  towns, 
villages  and  country  homes,  it  is  not  always  easy  to  get  the 
professional  assistance  required,  and  for  their  benefit  we 
wish  to  offer  a  few  suggestions,  before  proceeding  to  the  dis- 
cussion of  other  matters  and  the  description  of  the  accom- 
panying plates. 


Ghaptrr    II. 


HOW    TO    PLAN    A    HOUSE. — HINTS    AS    TO    HOW    TO    PROCEED. 
-KINDS     OF    LUMBER    TO     USE.  — SUGGESTIONS     WORTH 
N I  >T ING.  — PAINTING. 


-o-o»<Oo- 


N  the  first  place,  we  assume  that  a  small  cottage 
is  to  be  built.  The  only  one  to  apply  to  in  the 
village  is  one  of  the  two  or  three  carpenters, 
who  perhaps  knows  little  of  the  real  conveniences 
of  life  that  may  be  introduced  into  the  small 
cottage,  or  who  does  not  seem  to  rise  above  the 
one  thought  that  a  certain  number  of  rooms 
after  some  stereotyped  pattern  he  has  been 
familiar  with,  is  all  that  is  required.  We  do 
not  mean  to  say  this  is  always  the  case,  for 
sometimes  the  carpenter  exercises  a  good  amount 
of  ability  in  the  arrangement  of  rooms  in  the  small  houses 
that  come  under  his  hand. 

If  you  cannot  secure  the  help  of  a  competent  carpenter, 
you  should  commence  by  carefully  calculating  the  amount 
of  room  you  must  have,  examining  the  houses  of  some  of 
your  acquaintances,  and  comparing  sizes  and*  arrangement 
of  rooms;  and   if  you  can  refer  to  some  book  of  plates  and 

[30] 


HOW  TO  PLAN  A  HOUSE.  31 

arrangement  of  space  and  simple  forms  of  exterior  finish, 
such  as  this  work  is  intended  to  furnish,  much  assistance 
can  be  obtained  in  designing  your  house. 

Outline  to  a  certain  scale,  if  in  ever  so  crude  a  form,  the 
rooms,  with  the  dimensions  marked  on  the  same,  also  giving 
outside  measure  of  the  whole  building. 

Locate  the  doors  and  windows  where  they  will  give  the 
best  light  and  most  room  for  the  arrangement  of  the 
furniture,  when  the  building  is  completed.  How  many 
times  these  two  important  things— doors  and  windows — 
have,  for  the  want  of  a  little  forethought,  been  so  arranged 
that  the  sunlight  cannot  be  admitted  as  it  should  be.  or  in 
the  position  to  fail  to  secure  the  ventilation  that  might  be 
easily  obtained  in  the  summer  time  by  open  windows. 

A  bed  room  should,  if  possible,  have  two  windows;  and 
if  on  a  corner,  one  on  each  of  the  two  sides,  thereby 
securing  a  draft  of  air  in  the  heat  of  the  summer,  which 
could  not  be  obtained  by  one  window,  or  two  on  the  same 
side.  The  doors  should  be  located  as  far  as  possible  from 
the  corners  of  rooms,  and  so  as  to  come  opposite  the 
windows,  that  they  too  may  help  to  secure  a  thorough 
ventilation  in  the  heat  of  summer. 

Now  from  the  specifications  given  in  succeeding  chapters 
can  be  found  something  bearing  upon  almost  every  point,  so 
that  the  amateur  can  get  up  specifications  and  contract 
that  shall  quite  completely  cover  all  necessary  particulars  on 
a  house  of  the  kind  under  consideration.  The  elevation  will 
have  to  be  determined,  the  height  of  posts,  and  distance 
between  ceiling  and  floor,  and  height  of  second  story.  This 
is  meant  to  be  a  perfectly  plain  story-and-a-half  cottage, 
devoid  of  much  ornamentation. 


32  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Now  from  the  carpenters  who  are  to  figure  on  the  work, 
you  can  discover  any  gross  error  you  have  made  in  your 
terms  or  description  of  things.  This  is  supposing  you  do 
not  have  an  average  good  carpenter  to  apply  to  for 
assistance  in  making  the  plans  and  specifications ;  but  most 
carpenters  are  capable  of  studying  out  floor  plans,  and 
making  out  specifications  in  some  form  or  other ;  and  in  case 
you  want  to  build  a  house  similar  to  the  one  we  have  been 
discussing,  and  you  apply  to  a  builder,  he  will,  under  your 
directions,  prepare  a  floor  arrangement  and  specifications, 
with  the  understanding  that  he  is  to  compete  with  whoever 
else  in  his  line  you  may  deem  it  proper  to  call  in;  and 
if  you  do  not  award  him  the  job,  you  are  to  remunerate  him 
for  his  sketches. 

Now  with  the  aid  of  what  you  will  find  in  succeeding 
chapters  of  this  work,  you  can  carefully  read  over  his 
specifications  and  compare  them  with  those  we  have  given, 
and  see  where  omissions  have  been  made  by  him,  or  descrip- 
tion of  particulars  left  incomplete;  also,  where  the  quality 
of  material  is  not  what  it  should  be. 

By  referring  to  the  chapter  containing  the  estimates  of 
quantities  of  the  different  forms  of  building  material,  yovi 
can  ascertain  very  nearly  the  different  amounts  needed 
in  constructing  your  house.  For  instance,  brick  that  are 
the  usual  size,  2x4x8  inches,  require  22  to  the  cubic  foot,  or 
in  building  a  common  chimney  16  inches  square,  it  will 
take  30  brick  to  the  foot  in  height.  Thus  you  will  find  in 
tins  work  all  the  different  methods  of  estimating  buildings, 
commonly  used  by  builders. 

These  will  all  be  of  assistance,  particularly  in  country 
places.     They  will  be  of  special  value  to  the  farmer,  whether 


HOW  TO  PROCEED.  33 

he  is  erecting  a  house,  or  some  of  the  many  different  kinds 
of  farm  buildings,  where  usually  all  materials  are  furnished 
and  the  labor  contracted  by  the  day  to  execute  the  work. 

He  commences  in  the  fall,  after  farming  work  is  well 
out  of  the  way,  and  determines  what  he  wants  for  a 
building,  and  the  size  of  the  same,  cutting  from  his  own 
forest  and  hauling  to  the  mill  the  logs  to  cut  out  all  of 
the  different  dimensions  and  kinds  of  materials,  which 
should  then  be  piled  up  to  dry. 

All  material  intended  for  finishing,  inside  and  outside, 
such  as  flooring,  clapboarding,  or  weather- boarding,  casings 
and  moldings,  should  be  thoroughly  dried  out  and  seasoned, 
so  that  it  can  be  matched,  planed,  re-sawed,  and  got  into 
shape  for  putting  up.  In  fact,  all  timber  should  be 
thoroughly  seasoned,  for,  if  put  up  before  dry,  it  is  always 
"getting  out  of  shape,"  as  it  is  termed,  warping  and 
twisting  badly,  doors  and  window-frames  opening  joint,  the 
plastering  cracking,  frame  settling,  and  openings  appearing 
under  the  base-boards. 

All  of  this  may  be  caused,  even  where  the  finish  is  dry, 
by  putting  in  the  framing  when  it  is  wet,  and  covering  it 
up  before  it  has  time  to  dry,  which  it  will  do  after  fires  are 
in  the  house,  and  produce  the  results  above  mentioned. 
Therefore,  if  the  framing  lumber  cannot  have  time  to  be 
dried  in  the  pile,  it  should  be  allowed  to  stand  three  or  four 
weeks  or  more  in  the  building,  before  plastering. 

All  floor  joists  for  the  second  floor  should  be  sized  to  a 
uniform  width,  and  all  outside  and  inside  studding  should  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner;  then  the  walls  will  come  even, 
and  there  will  be  no  trouble  by  the  variations  in  widths  of 
studding.      Any  kind  of  lumber  will  dry  sufficiently  in  the 


34  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

open  air,  piled  up  openly  with  free  access  for  the  air  to  pass 
through,  except  in  case  of  that  used  for  doors,  sash,  and 
blinds,  which  must  be  kiln-dried  after  being  dressed;  or  as 
is  usual  with  doors,  when  framed  together  before  gluing, 
placed  in  the  kiln  for  a  few  days.  Pine  lumber  for  doors, 
sash,  and  blinds  should  be  soft,  as  that  which  is  hard  and 
glassy,  or  what  is  known  as  Norway  pine,  will  warp  when 
the  door  comes  to  be  used.  For  painted  work  it  don't 
matter  so  much  if  some  sap  is  used  on  inside  finish,  unless 
the  work  is  to  be  painted  white,  when  it  would  take  too 
many  coats  to  cover  the  dark  colors  of  the  sap ;  and  if  any 
knots  are  used,  either  inside  or  out,  they  should  be 
thoroughly  covered  with  shellac  before  painting,  as  it  will 
help  to  prevent  the  pitch  coming  through.  If  the  wood 
is  finished  in  the  natural  color  of  the  pine,  it  must  first 
be  made  perfectly  smooth  with  sand-paper,  if  a  good  job  is 
wanted,  and  then  given  one  coat  of  hard  oil  finish.  When 
dry,  over  this  spread  two  coats  of  good  copal  or  coach 
varnish ;  this,  when  dry,  makes  a  hard,  bright,  glossy  finish, 
easily  kept  clean.  The  wood  for  the  work  must  be  sand- 
papered with  the  grain,  as  any  cross  rubbing  will,  when  the 
work  is  done,  show  scratches  on  the  surface. 

When  we  can  have  our  way,  we  never  paint  anything 
white.  The  old-time  custom,  in  many  parts  of  the  country, 
of  painting  the  house  white,  and  outside  blinds  green,  we 
know  has  a  strong  hold  on  the  popular  mind ;  but  we  think 
if  a  little  attention  is  given  to  the  subject,  and  pains  taken 
to  see  some  houses  that  are  painted  in  one  or  more  modern 
colors,  most  of  the  adherents  to  the  glaring  white  and 
brilliant  green  will  yield  to  the  more  harmonious  shades 
that  are  in  better  accord  with  the  surroundings. 


PAINTING. 


35 


These  criticisms  apply  with  equal  force  to  the  subject  of 
inside  finish.  We  never  would  paint  anything  white. 
Paint  each  room  in  one  or  more  colors  of  delicate  shades, 
neutral  tints,  with  nothing  having  a  gaudy  appearance,  but 
presenting  a  quiet  harmony  in  tone  and  color  with  the  fur- 
nishing of  the  room.  In  papering,  the  color  of  paint  and 
tint  of  paper  should  always  be  considered,  so  that  they  may 
blend  well.     (See  Department  of  House  Painting.) 


Ghaftee   111. 


ORNAMENTATION.  —  APPEARANCE  OF  A  HOUSE. — SECRET  OF 
ATTRACTIVE  BUILDINGS. — THE  PLACE  TO  PUT  ORNA- 
MENTS.— LITTLE  EXPENSE  WITH  GOOD  RESULTS. — THE 
FRONT  ENTRANCE.  — PORTICO. — CORNICE.  —  GABLE. 


^►oXKc 


HE  exterior  of  a  house  built  of  wood  can,  at  a 
small  cost  over  what  the  difference  would  be  for 
a  plain  one,  be  made  attractive  and  even  beauti- 
ful in  outline  and  effect;  it  should,  however,  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  requirements  to  produce 
a  fine  artistic  effect,  are  not,  by  any  means,  in 
the  amount  of  ornamentation  put  on,  but  in  the 
kind  and  in  the  adaptability  of  the  ornaments  of 
the  building.  In  other  words,  what  is  put  on 
for  the  purpose  of  ornamenting  should  be  in  the 
right  place,  and  look  as  if  it  belonged  and  had  a 
purpose  there.  Many  times  this  is  overdone,  and  the 
building  when  completed  looks  more  like  a  thing  constructed 
upon  which  to  nail  tawdry  or  illy-designed  ornaments,  than 
a  harmonious  whole,  with  each  part  blending  with  the 
other,  and  making  an  object  that  will  attract  attention, 
and  challenge  admiration,  and  upon  which  the  eye  lingers 

[36] 


WHERE  TO  PUT  ORNAMENTS.  37 

spell-bound,  while  the  effect  on  the  memory  is  of  something- 
beautiful. 

All  this  is  very  simple  of  explanation.  Sometimes 
we  look  upon  a  house  that  has  this  attraction  for  us,  and 
when  we  come  to  think  over  the  amount  of  ornamenting 
done  and  the  cost  of  the  same,  we  are  almost  astonished 
that  so  little  could  attract  attention;  but  it  is  simply  the 
arrangement  of  the  design  of  the  building  that  produces  this 
effect. ' 

The  front  entrance,  the  portico,  and  the  entrance 
doors  should,  we  think,  be  the  place  to  show  the  most  taste 
in  ornamentation.  This  is  the  point  that  must  command 
the  most  marked  attention.  Let  the  outline  be  easy  and 
graceful,  the  steps  broad,  and,  where  there  is  plenty  of  room 
and  the  expense  can  be  borne,  curve  out  in  an  easy  manner. 
Nothing  helps  to  make  an  inviting  entrance  like  broad, 
easy  steps. 

The  front  doors,  we  think,  should  be  a  model  of  outline,* 
and  the  ornamentation  in  good  taste.  This  can  be  done 
without  much,  if  any,  carvings.  We  think  that  most  of 
the  costly  doors  often  seen,  covered  with  carved  ornaments, 
are  anything  but  beautiful,  and  they  often  look  burdened 
with  unmeaning  intricacies  of  the  gouge  and  chisel,  where 
something  else,  in  rich  design  of  form  and  outline,  would 
have  been  far  more  attractive. 

The  portico,  again,  an  important  feature  so  commonly 
used  now  on  city  and  town  houses,  possesses  the  same 
characteristics,  that  is,  the  same  amount  of  work  looks 
either  good  or  bad  according  to  the  taste  and  skill  displayed 
in  the  forms  of  finish,  the  dimensions  of  outlines,  caps,  etc. 
A  column  too  large  in  proportion,  may  spoil  the  good  effect 


38  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

of  an  otherwise  fine  portico;  and  the  same  thoughtfulness 
must  govern  the  entire  work. 

The  windows,  the  frames,  caps,  and  sills  must,  when 
completed,  form  an  outline  that  is  easy  and  symmetrical, 
whatever  the  design  may  be.  For  instance,  a  window 
with  a  neat  cap,  and  the  sill  cut  short  off,  with  nothing  to 
relieve  it  on  the  side,  or  any  corbel  under  the  sill,  looks 
ungraceful.  It  matters  not  how  fine  a  cap  it  may  have, 
there  will  be  something  lacking. 

Cornices  and  gables,  again,  are  open  to  the  same  crit- 
icism. A  cornice  may  be  too  broad  for  the  building,  or  the 
roof  too  steep  for  the  width  of  cornice,  either  of  which  pro- 
duces a  strange  effect  upon  the  building.  The  gable  can  be 
ornamented  in  a  multitude  of  ways  that  are  most  pleasing 
to  the  eye,  or  the  vagaries  of  the  jig  and  band  saw  may 
cumber  it  down  with  trash  that  is  most  repulsive  to 
look  upon. 

We  have  briefly  touched  upon  these  points,  endeavoring 
to  show  where  beauty  in  the  exterior  of  our  houses  may  be 
had,  and  that,  too,  in  many  cases  without  increasing  the 
cost,  if  we  only  use  good  taste,  skill,  and  fair  judgment  in 
the  designs. 


QHAPTRR  J^# 


I 


BUILDINGS  OF  WOOD. — THEIR  ECONOMY. — KINDS  OF  WOOD 
TO  USE.— ERECTING  THE  BUILDING.— DIRECTIONS  THERE- 
FOR.— RENDERING  WOODEN  DWELLINGS  WARM. — BACK 
PLASTERING. — HOW  TO  MAKE  A  WOODEN  DWELLING 
NEARLY    FIRE   PROOF. 


moderate 
there  can 
one  built 
brick  and 
discussion 
chapter. 


oXKc 


N  this  country  with  its  almost  exhaustless 
resources  of  forests,  including  the  finest  assort- 
ment of  woods  for  building  found  on  any 
continent,  the  choicest  kinds  can  be  procured  at 
reasonable  figures. 

The  woods  best  adapted  for  the  framing  and 
finishing  of  all  exterior  portions,  as  well  as  for 
the  superstructure  itself,  are  PINE,  spruce,  and 
hemlock,  their  abundance,  improved  methods 
of  manufacture,  and  moderate  cost,  rendering 
them  the  most  desirable  woods  for  houses  of 
cost.  As  far  as  health  is  concerned,  we  think 
be  no  house  better  adapted  to  its  promotion  than 
of  wood.  However,  the  obstacles  to  health  in 
stone  buildings  are  not  insurmountable,  and  a  full 
of    these    materials    will    be   found  in  another 

[39] 


40  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIE  ADORNMENTS. 

A  building  of  wood  cannot  well  be  made  as  warm  as 
one  of  brick  or  stone,  but  can,  in  the  following  manner,  be 
made  warm  enough  for  all  practical  purposes.  For  an  ordi- 
nary eight-room,  two-story  building  we  will  imagine  three 
rooms  and  a  hall  in  first  story,  the  same  number  on  the 
second  floor,  and  a  rear  part  with  kitchen,  pantry,  and 
back  staircase,  and  cellar  under  this,  and  on  second  floor  of 
rear  part  a  servant's  room  and  bath-room.  The  sills  should 
be  eight  inches  square,  the  floor  joists  for  first  floor  two  by 
ten  inches,  and  framed  into  the  sills  even  with  the  tops  of 
the  same,  so  that  when  the  floor  is  laid  it  will  just  come 
evenly  over  the  sills,  to  prevent  rats  and  mice  from  gaining 
an  entrance,  for  these  pests  are  one  of  the  most  annoying  dis- 
advantages in  most  wood  dwellings,  as  they  are  generally 
constructed. 

Now  proceed  to  put  up  the  outer  walls -of  the  house  of 
two  by  four  scantling,  with  ledger  boards  one  by  five 
inches  cut  in  for  second  story  floor  joists  to  rest  upon,  and 
plates  doubled  and  spiked  down  on  top  of  scantling  for 
rafters.  Cover  the  outside  of  frame  with  good,  sound 
boards,  dry,  or  nearly  so. 

The  frame  should  either  be  dry,  or  after  being  put  into 
the  building  should  have  a  chance  to  dry  before  plastering 
is  put  on.  Boards  should  be  planed,  as  }Tou  cannot  make 
them  lay  down  even  with  each  other  if  of  uneven  thickness. 
On  the  inside,  between  the  outside  studding,  nail  on  furring 
strips  one  inch  square  with  the  face  one  and  a  half  inches 
from  outside  of  studding,  and  to  these  lath  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  and  put  on  one  good  coat  of  rich,  brown  mortar; 
this  is  known  as  back  plastering.  We  know  of  no  way  so 
well  adapted  for  making  a  warm  house  as  this. 


FIRE-PROOF  WOODEN  BUILDINGS.  41 

If  your  frame  is  not  dry,  or  if  studding  is  wet  or  green, 
they  might  shrink  and  leave  small  crevices  for  air  between 
furring  strips  and  studding.  We  might  observe  right  here 
that  it  is  of  vast  importance  to  have  the  timber  for  floors 
and  partitions  well  dried,  either  for  wood  buildings  or  brick 
and  stone. 

This  back  plastering  will  cost  from  ten  to  twelve  cents 
per  square  yard,  including  lathing;  and  considering  the 
great  benefit  of  a  warm,  dry  house,  it  should  be  put  in  most 
good  houses  at  least.  This  arrangement  leaves  an  air-space 
next  to  the  outside  boarding,  and  one  next  to  inside  plaster- 
ing, thereby  effectually  excluding  dampness  and  wind. 

Another  thing  that  should  be  done  to  help  overcome  the 
disadvantage  of  wood  buildings,  as  compared  with  brick  and 
stone,  is  to  render  them  comparatively  safe  from  total  de- 
struction by  fire.  As  usually  constructed,  walls  are  so 
many  flues  on  the  outside,  leaving  free  access  for  draughts 
of  air  to  fan  a  fire  and  spread  it  with  lightning  rapidity 
from  cellar  to  garret,  so  that  when  discovered  it  is  beyond 
control. 

Such  walls  also  allow  vermin  to  pass  up  and  in  between 
the  ceiling  and  floors,  if  they  once  get  in  below.  We  over- 
come this  danger,  in  a  measure  at  least,  in  the  following- 
way:  On  the  level  of  the  second  floor,  either  run  the  floor- 
ing in  between  studding,  or  nail  or  cut  in  horizontal  pieces 
between  each  studding,  and  over  these  fill  in  a  couple  of 
inches  of  mortar  or  a  course  of  brick  laid  in  mortar.  This 
closes  the  passages  between  plaster  and  boards  effectually, 
so  that  there  is  no  draught  should  the  house  catch  fire  by 
any  means  on  an  outside  wall.  How  many  times  this 
arrangement  alone  would  have  kept  a  fire  burning  so  slowly 


42  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

that  it  could  have  been  discovered  and  put  out  before  it 
had  worked  its  way  up  to  the  roof.  This  is  one  of  the  pre- 
cautions that  can  be  taken  to  reduce  the  risk  of  fire  in 
wooden  buildings.  •  Still,  most  of  our  brick  dwellings,  so 
far  as  their  internal  construction  is  concerned,  are  exceed- 
ingly inflammable;  and  if  a  fire  is  once  well  under  way,  it 
usually  ruins  everything  inside. 

Sheathing  Paper. 

But  to  return  to  our  wood  house.  On  the  outside  walls 
we  would  place  one  thickness  of  tarred  building  paper  with 
the  edges  lapped,  and  run  it  under  all  finish,  as  corner 
boards,  cornices,  window  and  door  frames,  etc.  This  paper 
now  costs  two  and  three-fourths  cents  per  pound,  and  comes 
in  rolls  of  about  fifty  yards  each,  on  an  average,  so  it  will 
be  an  easy  matter  to  find  out  about  the  amount  wanted. 

Now  these  two  things — building  paper  and  back  plas- 
tering— should  be  used  where  a  good  house  is  building, 
but  on  some  cheaper  houses  it  may  not  always  do  to  incur 
the  expense.  The  usual  plan  here,  and  for  most  parts  of 
the  country,  is  to  paper  only  in  the  manner  directed  above; 
but  we  are  sure,  that  for  a  good  house,  it  will  pay  to  bu,ck 
plaster  also. 

The  roof,  if  of  shingles  eighteen  inches  long,  should  be 
laid  five  and  one-half  inches  to  the  weather,  and  should  be 
laid  on  roof  boards  with  open  joints  one  and  a  half  inches. 
This  is  much  better  for  the  roof  than  to  have  the  boarding 
laid  with  close  edges,  or  matched,  as  when  the  shingles  are 
wet  they  absorb  a  large  amount  of  moisture,  and  are  liable 
to  swell  and  injure  the  roof.  Where  roof  boarding  is  open, 
a  better  circulation  of  air  is  obtained  and  the  shingles  dry 


SHINGLES  AND  CLAPBOARDS.  43 

out  quickly,  while  on  the  other  hand,  with  boards  laid  close, 
the  shingles  have  to  dry  from  the  outside  surface  entirely, 
or  nearly  so,  and  require  more  time,  thereby  causing  a 
quicker  decay  of  the  wood. 

Shingles  make  a  good  roof,  as  almost  every  one  knows; 
and  considering  their  cost,  they  are  not  liable  to  be  super- 
seded by  anything  else  for  cheap  wooden  buildings.  The 
slate  roof,  of  course,  is  much  better,  both  in  appearance  and 
durability,  but  its  cost  must  exclude  it  from  general  use  on 
wooden  buildings  of  moderate  cost  while  shingles  are  so 
cheap.  The  best  shingles  ever  made  are  the  old-style  hand- 
shaved,  but  very  few  are  now  made.  By  using  a  little 
care,  in  laying  sawed  shingles,  to  turn  down  the  brash  way 
of  the  grain,  the  shingles  will  last  much  longer. 

Clapboarding. 

The  outer  walls  are  usually  covered  with  clapboards  of 
pine,  spruce,  or,  sometimes,  basswood;  in  this  locality, 
usually  pine,  and  this  is  the  best.  These  boards  are  made 
from  six-inch  strips,  one  inch  thick  as  they  come  from  the 
mills;  after  being  allowed  to  dry  they  are  planed  both 
sides,  and  jointed,  and  run  through  a  re-sawing  machine, 
making  two  clapboards  out  of  each  inch  piece.  Clap- 
boards should  not  be  laid  to  exceed  four  and  one-half  inches 
to  the  weather,  and  nailed  once  in  twelve  inches.  In  many 
parts  of  the  Eastern  States,  particularly  Maine,  Vermont, 
and  New  Hampshire,  large  quantities  of  spruce  clapboards 
a.re  made  from  small,  straight  trees  which  are  cut  in  four  and 
six-foot  lengths,  turned  in  a  lathe  and  then  sawed  toward 
the  center,  the  thin  edges  in,  and  thick  edges  out.  These 
make  a  very  good  clapboard,  but  great  care  must  be  used 


44  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

in  putting-  them  on,  owing  to  their  liability  to  split.  Some 
painters  claim  that  on  these  boards  paint  will  not  stick 
as  well;  still,  in  our  experience,  where  dry  clapboards 
have  been  painted  with  pure  white  lead  and  linseed  oil, 
it  has  not  come  off. 

Basswood  is  used  in  only  a  few  localities  where  the  wood 
is  plenty ;  if  put  on  dry,  and  thoroughly  nailed  and  painted 
without  getting  wet,  it  makes  a  very  good  covering.  Clap- 
boards are  undoubtedly  the  best  covering  for  outside  walls 
of  wood  buildings.  Boards  ten  inches  wide,  running  per- 
pendicularly and  battened  at  the  joints,  make  a  good  out- 
side covering. 

Now-a-days  we  sometimes  venture  upon  the  grounds  of 
our  ancestors  by  shingling  outer  Avails,  but  usually  for 
effect  only,  in  gables,  where  a  few  shingles  laid  in  a  panel 
or  above  a  belt  course,  cut  in  some  attractive  pattern  and 
painted  in  some  rich  or  warm  color,  have  a  pleasing  effect. 
The  great  disadvantages  in  the  protection  of  exposed 
surfaces  of  wooden  buildings,  render  the  material  less 
desirable  for  certain  classes  of  residences,  and  there  is  not 
the  least  doubt  that  less  perishable  materials  are  preferable, 
other  things  being  equal. 


(fxFI^F>TRR     Y. 


DURABLE  FLOORS. — A  BETTER  PLAN  FOR  FLOORS  SUG- 
GESTED. —  OPEN  JOINTS  AND  HOW  TO  PREVENT  THEM. 
— INSIDE  FINISH. — THE  BEST  WOODS  AND  HOW  TO  USE 
THEM. — PREVENTION   OF    SWELLING   IN   LUMBER. 


-OO^OO- 


INE  and  spruce  are  the  kinds  used  most  for 
ordinary  floors  that  are  to  be  covered  with 
carpeting.  In  the  Middle  and  Western  States, 
the  flooring-  is  matched  and  laid  the  first  thing 
Up  after  the  roof  is  on  the  building.  In  the  Eastern 
States,  a  floor  of  cull  boards,  planed  to  an  even 
thickness  and  unmatched,  is  laid  as  soon  as  the 
floor  joists  are  in  place,  and  this  comes  very 
handy  to  work  upon  during  the  process  of 
constructing  the  walls,  either  in  wood  or  brick 
buildings. 
After  plastering  and  other  work  of  inside  finishing  are  all 
done,  and  the  base  board  in  place,  the  last  or  upper  floor 
is  laid  over  the  cull  floor  previously  laid.  The  last  floor 
is  made  of  pine,  or  more  commonly  there,  spruce,  unmatched, 
the  edges  jointed,  and  the  measure  taken  for  each  piece, 
which  is  cut  in  place  and  laid,  commencing  on  either  side  of 

[45] 


46  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  room  and  meeting  in  the  center,  fitting  each  end  to 
a  joint  against  base  board.  The  last  opening  near  the  center 
is  measured,  and  a  piece  fitted  and  sprung  into  place,  mak- 
ing the  whole  floor  tight.  It  is  then  lined  off  and  nailed  on 
both  edges. 

This  makes  a  very  good  floor,  though  costing  somewhat 
more  than  a  matched  floor.  The  edge  of  such  a  floor  being 
inside  of  base  board,  if  there  is  any  settling  it  will  not  show 
an  open  joint,  as  in  the  plan  of  putting  the  base  board 
on  the  floor,  when  any  shrinkage  will  leave  an  opening. 

In  kitchens,  this  plan  of  laying  the  floor  inside  of  finish 
is  particularly  good,  as  the*  floor  frequently  wears  out  in 
time,  and  has  to  be  replaced,  which  can  be  done  without 
disturbing  other  finish. 

Hard-wood  floors  are  much  used,  and  those  made  from 
the  following  woods  are  desirable:  White  oak,  hard  maple, 
cherry,  and  ash,  if  straight  grained. 

In  the  Eastern  States,  much  southern  hard  pine  is 
used  for  public  buildings  and  factories.  This  has  a  smooth, 
hard,  glassy  surface,  and  makes  an  excellent  floor  to  stand 
the  wear. 

We  omitted  to  mention  the  use  of  matched  sheathing 
for  outer  walls,  in  connection  with  our  remarks  on  outside 
covering;  this  is  desirable  many  times  for  fronts  in  city 
or  town ;  but  in  the  way  it  is  usually  put  on,  horizontally, 
in  many  places,  we  think  it  serves  a  very  poor  purpose.  If 
the  sheathing  applied  in  this  way  is  ever  so  dry,  the 
tendency  is  to  produce  leaks  and  rotten  joints.  The  rain, 
beating  against  the  wall,  works  into  the  joints,  and  falling 
in  behind  window-frames,  many  times  causes  leaks  and 
swells  open  the  joints  of  the  sheathing,  so  that  the  appear- 
ance is  anything  but  pleasing. 


FINISHING.  47 

We  frequently  sheathe  the  fronts  of  houses,  but  we 
first  board  and  paper  outside  in  the  usual  manner;  then 
we  use  perfectly  dry  matched  pine,  seven-eighths  inch  thick 
and  two  and  a  half  inches  wide  (having  it  narrow  lessens 
risk  of  shrinkage),  putting  it  on  vertically,  and  wherever 
it  comes  on  a  window  cap,  or  roof,  we  turn  the  tin  well 
up  under.  The  reasons  why  this  method  is  better  are 
obvious.  It  cannot  leak,  for  if  any  water  should  get  into  a 
joint,  it  runs  out  at  the  lower  end,  and  the  joints  running 
vertically,  the  water  will  not  have  much  tendency  to  get 
into  them.     Besides,  this  method  looks  better. 

We  have,  in  this  city,  known  of  many  instances  where 
the  fronts  of  houses  sheathed  horizontally  have  leaked,  and 
the  owners  have  had  them  clapboarded  to  put  a  stop  to 
the  annoyance. 

The  best  finish  for  all  outside  wood- work,  as  is  well 
known,  is  pine.  Nothing  else,  of  the  many  different  kinds 
of  wood,  possesses  the  quality  of  withstanding  the  storms 
and  weather  changes  as  does  pine,  when,  of  course,  pro- 
tected with  paint. 

All  outside  finish,  so  far  as  practicable,  should  be  primed 
before  being  put  into  the  building.  We  have  found  from 
practice  that  the  moldings  of  columns,  as  they  are  fitted 
and  cut  for  their  respective  places,  should  be  hollowed  out 
on  the  back,  or  heel,  of  the  miter,  and  the  joints  painted  one 
coat.  A  column  made  from  dry  pine,  with  its  joints 
put  together  in  the  same  way,  will  not  show  the  joints 
of  the  capital  and  molded  bases  open,  like  many  frequently 
seen  on  new  work  carelessly  put  up. 

The  cause  of  open  joints  is  plain.  The  water  striking 
the  column  and  running  down  onto  the  capital  and  base, 


48  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

thoroughly  saturates  them  ;  they  swell,  and  if  what  is  known 
as  the  heel,  or  thick  part  of  the  miter,  has  not  been  hol- 
lowed out  as  above,  the  outer  parts  are  forced  apart,  leaving 
an  ugly  gap  for  the  painter  to  cover  up;  if  cut  away,  it  can 
swell  without  forcing  the  joint  open  on  the  outer  corner. 

Pine  is  also  mostly  used  for  all  kinds  of  inside  finish  in 
the    ordinary   class   of    buildings   or   houses.     Whitewood, 
known  in  some  parts  of  the  South  as  poplar,  is  used  to  some 
extent  where  this  kind  of  wood  is  plentiful,  and  being  a  soft 
wood,  it  is  very  easy  to  work ;    the  surface  finishes  down 
smoothly,  and  takes  paint  well.     Indeed,  it  gives  a  better 
surface  for  painted  work   than  it  is  possible  to  obtain  on 
pine,  and  there  is  no  pitch  to  come  through,  and  but  few 
knots  to  be  found  in  it.     It  is  not   abundant   enough   to 
compete  with  pine  in  all  markets,  and  although  there  are 
very  few  knots  or  "  shakes"  to  contend  with,  it  has  a  way 
of  checking  in  seasoning,  from  the  ends,  that  causes  a  large 
waste  to  the  consumer.     These  checks  extend  from  one  to 
four  feet  from  either  end,  and  we  know  of  no  way  to  pre- 
vent this.     Having  used  a  large  amount  of  it  in  years  past, 
we  think  there  is  none.     Bass-wood,  a  pure,  white,  soft, 
pliable  wood,  fully  as  soft  as  pine,  is  much  used  for  carriage 
and  sleigh  bodies,  and  indeed  for  almost  any  finishing  that 
requires   bending   for   form,  where   great   strength    is   not 
demanded. 

This  wood  takes  on  a  fine  finish,  as  may  be  observed  by 
noticing  the  brilliant,  coal-black  polish  on  carriage  bodies. 
It  makes  a  very  good  inside  finish,  but  must  be  well,  secured 
in  place,  wherever  used,  as  it  will,  before  being  painted, 
quickly  absorb  moisture,  and  warp  into  all  manner  of 
shapes.     It  has  never  been  used  very  extensively  in  cities 


THE  BEST  WOODS.  49 

for  inside  finishing,  its  use  being  confined  principally  to 
certain  localities  where  it  is  abundant  and  cheap,  and  where 
pine  is  not  so  plenty. 

In  the  Eastern  States  the  farmer,  having  trees  of  this 
variety  in  his  forest,  and  no  pine,  cuts  them  into  finishing- 
lumber,  and  uses  it  to  save  the  purchase  of  pine.  Like 
whitewood,  it  is  much  used  in  cabinet  work  for  drawers  and 
backing  of  furniture.  It  resembles  the  whitewood  in  most 
respects,  being  free  from  knots  and  liable  to  checking  in  the 
ends  during  seasoning,  but  it  is  softer  and  whiter.  The  woods 
enumerated  in  the  foregoing  list  comprise  those  most  used 
for  painted  work  on  interior  finish,  save  in  California,  where 
redwood  is  used  very  largely.  This  wood  has  the  peculiar 
disadvantage  of  shrinking  endwise  of  the  grain. 

In  either  of  the  two  woods  mentioned  in  comparison  with 
pine,  neither  is  so  well  suited  for  doors  and  sash,  as  they  will 
warp,  and  must  be  secured  in  place  to  something  solid. 
This  is  particularly  true  of  bass-wood. 

Whitewood  is  sometimes  used  for  doors,  but  does  not  stand 
like  pine;  so  when  we  consider  the  question  of  general 
utility,  pine  is  really  the  best  of  all,  and  we  know  of  noth- 
ing that  retains  its  form  as  well.  For  inside  finish,  it 
should  be  got  out  some  time  before  being  put  into 
the  building,  and  kiln-dried  either  before  or  after  work- 
ing; and  the  best  and  only  way  anything  like  a  good 
house  should  be  finished,  is  in  the  following  manner: 
The  plastering  should  be  put  on  around  all  doors,  windows, 
wainscotings,  and  base,  and  all  the  plaster  work  should  be 
thoroughly  dry  before  the  lumber  for  finish  is  taken  into 
the  house,  as  dry  pine,  taken  into  even  a  damp  room  and 
left  for  a  few  days,  will  absorb  considerable  moisture,  and  if 

4 


50  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

put  on  the  walls  before  it  is  dry,  it  will  surely  open  in  the 
joints. 

A  very  good  plan,  which  we  have  seen  used,  is  to  give 
lumber  for  casings  or  architravas,  a  coat  of  shellac  on  the 
back  side,  which  keeps  the  moisture,  if  there  be  any  in  the 
wall,  from  entering  the  wood. 

For  finishing  cheap  houses,  the  plan  most  generally 
followed,  is  to  put  on  plaster  ground  for  the  base  board 
only,  and  then  put  on  the  first  member  of  the  architrave 
around  doors  and  windows,  and  finish  the  plastering  to 
this,  and  after  mortar  is  dry,  to  put  on  a  band  molding,  as 
it  is  called,  lapping  over  the  casing  and  back  onto  the 
plaster,  covering  the  joint  between  casing  and  the  mortar. 
This  plan  answers  very  well  for  cheap  houses,  the  only 
difficulty  being  that  the  finish  first  put  on  will  swell  up  by 
contact  with  wet  mortar  and  cause  open  joints,  which  will 
have  to  be  filled  with  putty  by  the  painter. 


exMAFTRR    VI. 


STAIR  CASES. — DIRECTIONS  FOR  BUILDING. — NEW  STYLE  OF 
BANISTERS. — REAR  STAIRCASE. — HARD  WOODS. — BLACK- 
WALNUT. —  HOW  TO  FINISH  A  HOUSE  IN  HARD  WOOD. 
— VENEERING   HARD    WOODS. 


oXKc 


HE  staircase  in  the  better  class  of  houses  should 
not  be  built,  save  the  rough  carriages,  until  after 
plastering  is  completed  and  dry,  for  the  rea- 
sons before  stated.  The  "treads  and  risers" 
for  all  good  stairs  should  be  ganed,  or  housed  in, 
to  back  stringer1,  as  the  term  is  used ;  and  where 


the  face  stringer  is  cased  up  or  made  what  is 
known  as  a  close  stringer,  they  should  be  housed 
into  this  also,  and  these  grooves  should  be  cut 
on  a  bevel,  and  wedged  and  glued  in  place 
solid  and  nailed.  In  the  corner,'  between  the 
stringers,  a  small,  square,  pine  block,  some  six  inches  long, 
should  be  glued  in  against  "tread"  and  "riser."  This 
holds  the  stairs,  or  "treads"  and  "risers,"  solidly  together, 
and  prevents  the  squeaking  so  often  heard  when  going  up 
and  down  many  apparently  good  flights  of  stairs.  All 
kinds  of  wood  used  for  inside  finish  are  used  in  stair 
work.  [51] 


52  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Until  within  a  few  years,  the  post  at  foot  of  stairs,  or 
newel  post,  banisters,  and  rail  have  been  made  from  black- 
walnut,  except  in  the  more  pretentious  houses,  where 
mahogany  is  sometimes  used.  But  at  the  present,  in  the 
East,  very  little  black-walnut  is  used  for  stair  work,  ash, 
oak,  and  butternut,  being  substituted.  We  have  now,  in 
ordinary  houses  even,  broken  away,  in  a  measure  at  least, 
from  the  old-style  turned  newel  post  and  banister,  and  in 
their  place  you  find  a  square  post  for  a  newel,  ornamented 
in  a  simple  and  pleasing  manner  on  the  base  and  shaft,  with 
a  cap  formed  in  a  graceful  outline  to  the  top,  for  a  gas-light 
stand,  or  candelabrum,  or  if  this  is  not  wanted,  an  orna- 
ment of  wood.  On  the  side  of  staircase,  in  place  of  the 
banisters  is  found  a  neat  design  for  a  series  of  cut  panels, 
made  quite  open,  so  as  not  to  look  too  "  boxey,"  and  this 
surmounted  by  the  rail. 

If  there  is  room  in  the  arrangement  to  turn  the  stair 
once,  at  least,  when  part  way  up,  on  a  level  landing,  with  a 
square  angle  post  at  the  corner,  the  effect  is  good.  The 
level  landing  of  course  takes  a  little  more  room.  An  ordi- 
nary flight  of  stairs  can  be  made  in  a  neat  and  simple  de- 
sign, something  after  the  plan  stated  above,  at  a  cost  very 
little  more  than  the  old  style,  and  it  looks  very  much  better. 

A  window  of  stained  glass,  over  a  staircase,  or  at  a 
landing  part  way  up,  gives  a  very  pretty  effect  of  color 
in  the  hall  below.  Rear  or  back  stairs  are  not  always 
housed  in  the  stringer,  but  in  a  good  house  it  is  better, 
and  there  should  never  be  over  three  "  winders  "  in  turning 
a  corner,  as  when  more  are  used  it  renders  the  steps  so 
narrow  that  a  person  going  down  is  liable  to  fall. 

In  building,  always  bear  in  mind  that  back  stairs  are 


HARD  WOOD  FINISH.  53 

used  as  much  by  nearly  all  the  occupants  as  the  front  stairs, 
and  therefore  as  much  care  should  be  taken  in  their 
construction. 

Kinds  of  Haed  Wood  Generally  Used  in  Inside 

Finishing,  and  the  Manner  of  Using  and 

Applying  the  Same. 

The  following  constitute  the  principal  kinds  of  native 
hard  woods  used:  Black-walnut,  black  or  brown  ash, 
butternut,  white  ash,  white  maple,  white  oak,  red  oak,  red 
cherry,  and  sometimes  birch  and  beech,  but  not  to  any  great 
extent.  The  days  of  black-walnut  are  already  numbered 
for  lavish  use  in  finishing  buildings,  and  even  for  furniture. 
The  consumption  of  this  beautiful  wood  in  the  last  ten 
years  has  been  so  great  that  the  scarcity  now  felt  is  causing 
the  price  to  increase  constantly ;  and  in  a  few  years,  at  most, 
it  will  be  used  but  little,  even  in  furniture,  and  that  of 
the  most  costly  kind.  Although  it  is  an  elegant  wood,  and 
better  adapted  for  furniture,  we  think  that  the  finish  of  our 
houses  and  public  buildings  loses  nothing  by  the  substitution 
of  the  lighter  hard-woods  in  its  stead. 

Spending  several  weeks  recently  in  the  cities  of  New 
York  and  Boston,  and  visiting  many  fine  houses  as  well 
as  public  buildings,  the  author  observed  the  general  absence 
of  black-walnut  finish  even  among  the  opulent.  In  the 
West,  where  we  can  obtain  it  at  a  lower  price  than  in 
the  East,  we  still  adhere  to  it.  Although,  in  our  own 
practice  for  the  last  four  years  we  have  been  in  favor  of 
using  light,  hard- woods,  exclusive  of  any  trimming  up  with 
black-walnut.  We  have  found,  in  the  majority  of  cases, 
that  the  prejudice  in  its  favor  is  so  strong  that  our  patrons 
would  overrule  our  preference,  and  have  the  black-walnut. 


54  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

In  the  last  two  years  we  have  finished  a  few  houses 
in  light  wood,  and  the  indications  are  that  we  shall  now 
soon  follow  our  Eastern  friends  in  its  use.  The  light  woods 
give  a  welcome,  bright  effect  to  an  interior,  their  grain, 
when  finished  properly  by  the  painter,  standing  out  clear 
and  beautiful.  A  room  finished  with  light  woods,  in  our 
opinion,  presents  a  more  cheerful  appearance  and  has  noth- 
ing of  the  gloomy  effects  produced  by  darker  woods.  Our 
furniture  generally  being  dark,  the  variety  of  upholstering 
usually  produces  all  the  contrast  required  for  effect  without 
the  use  of  walnut  finish. 

The  author  has  now  in  process  of  construction  a 
residence  to  cost  twelve  thousand  dollars,  with  finishing  as 
follows :  The  parlor  and  sitting-room  finished  in  butternut ; 
the  vestibule,  front  hall,  and  staircase,  all  black-walnut;  the 
dining-room,  library,  and  entire  remainder  of  house,  in  red 
oak.  The  finishing  of  the  hall  and  staircase  in  walnut  was 
simply  a  compromise  with  the  proprietor,  who  in  the 
beginning  was  determined  to  run  streaks  of  walnut  all  the 
way  through  the  different  rooms,  but  finally  consented  to 
the  arrangement  given  above. 

In  the  East,  you  can  find  beautiful  staircases  in  fight 
woods,  and  will  be  surprised  at  their  beauty.  There  are,  as 
yet,  but  few  in  the  city  of  Detroit. 

The  first  proceeding  with  all  kinds  of  hard- wood  is  to 
get  it  thoroughly  kiln-dried;  and  a  good  amount  of  care 
should  be  used,  so  that  the  planks  or  boards  will  not  warp 
and  spring  while  in  the  kiln. 

In  securing  the  best  effect  of  grain,  much  depends  upon 
the  sawyer;  the  sidings  taken  off  produce  fine  grain,  and 
quartering  the  log  through  is  a  good  way  to  show  the  grain. 


VARIETIES  OF  HARD  WOOD.  55 

In  our  judgment  brown  ash  is  one  of  the  richest  of  our 
native  woods;  the  pleasing  variety  of  forms  the  grain 
assumes,  especially  the  mottled  or  variegated  color  (some- 
times called  by  dealers,  "  calico  ash  ")  is  very  rich,  desirable, 
and  much  sought  after  for  the  Eastern  market.  Most 
specimens  of  this  wood  are  of  a  soft,  brashy  nature,  easily 
worked,  and  take  on  a  fine,  smooth  finish  when  worked 
down,  in  consequence  of  which  it  is  much  used  in  furniture. 

White  oak  is  an  exceedingly  tough,  hard-wood,  and  very 
difficult  to  work  and  bring  down  to  a  smooth  finish.  This 
can  of  course  be  done,  but  it  costs  a  good  deal  in  hand  labor 
to  accomplish  it. 

Red  oak  is  less  difficult  to  work,  being  more  of  the 
nature  of  ash,  but  tougher;  the  grain  is  finely  marked  in  a 
variety  of  forms,  and  the  red,  bright  color  gives  it  a  very 
fine,  rich  effect  when  finished. 

White  or  hard  maple  is  a  very  hard,  bright  wood, 
and  very  white  (except  the  heart  of  the  tree),  used  but 
little  for  finishing  work,  but  more  for  floors,  the  grain 
being  ordinary.  Bird's-eye  maple  is  much  sought  after  for 
car  work,  and  is  sometimes  used  in  houses. 

Red  cherry  has  a  very  fine  grain,  and  a  rich,  reddish 
color,  taking  on  a  fine  polish,  and  in  some  degree  resembling 
some  varieties  of  mahogany.  It  is  now  much  used  in 
the  East  for  finishing  staircases,  dining-room  wainscotings, 
etc.,  and  is  very  beautiful  for  such  purposes.  It  is  also  used 
extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  school  desks. 

Some  persons  are  led  astray  in  regard  to  the  difference 
in  cost  of  finishing  in  hard-woods  and  pine;  the  price  per 
thousand  feet  is  about  the  same,  but  the  difference  in  cost 
arises  from  the  fact  that  there  is  always  more  waste  in  hard- 


56 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


wood    than  pine,  and    that  more  hand    labor   is   required 
to  produce  a  fine  job  of  joining  in  hard-wood. 

Doors  of  hard- wood  should  always  be  made  by  veneering 
on  pine.  Make,  first,  a  plain  pine  stile  and  rail  door,  and 
make  the  panels  of  the  kind  of  hard- wood  intended; 
then  glue  upon  the  pine  frame,  covering  it  up  entirely,  a 
thin  covering  of  the  hard-wood  desired,  one-fourth  to  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick.  When  this  work  is  dry,  cut  the 
desired  moldings  of  the  hard-wood,  and  secure  them  on  the 
edges  against  rail  and  stiles,  as  in  any  other  door.  Such  a 
door,  if  properly  made,  will  stand  without  warping.  The 
pine,  being  better  to  keep  true  than  any  known  wood, 
makes  an  excellent  foundation  to  hold  the  hard-wood. 

Another  plan  in  common  use  for  making  a  hard-wood 
door,  two  and  one-fourth  inches  thick,  for  instance,  is  to 
make  two  doors  of  equal  thickness  and  glue  them  together, 
both  being  framed  separately.  When  thus  glued  together, 
a  door  is  much  stronger  and  less  liable  to  warp  than  one 
equally  as  thick  made  of  a  single  piece  of  wood. 


CxFmPTRI^     VII. 


SOMETHING  MORE  DURABLE. — BRICK  AND  STONE  HOUSES. — 
THEIR  COST. — VENEER  BRICK  AND  STONE  WORK. — HOW 
TO  PREVENT  BRICK  WALLS  FROM  SWEATING. — STONE 
TRIMMINGS   FOR   BRICK   HOUSES. 


o>Kc 


HERE  is  something  in  the  word  stone  suggestive 

of  stability;  something  that  conveys  the  idea  of 

endurance,  solidity,  and  capability  to  stand  the 

tempest,  the  wear  of  winter's  ice  and  snow,  and 

of    summer's    parching    rays.       This   ability  to 

withstand   the  forces   of    the   elements,  and  to 

maintain  intact  in  spite  of  these  forces,  renders 

stone  the  natural  product  of  nature,  and  brick 

the  offspring  of  man's  genius,  especially  suitable 

for  purposes  of  building,  both  for  domestic  and 

commercial    use.        And    then    it    gratifies    the 

natural  vanity  of  a  man  to  be  able  to  erect  a  residence  of 

such  material  as  will  last  for  generations,  and  serve  as  a 

land-mark  of  family  history. 

One  great  advantage  of  brick  or  stone  work  is,  that  when 
once  properly  put  up,  it  requires  but  little  outlay  to  keep  it 
in  good  repair,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  a  building  of  wood 

[57] 


58  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

must  be  looked  after  frequently,  and  repainted  every  few 
years,  to  preserve  it  from  decay  and  keep  it  in  good  ap- 
pearance. A  brick  house  requires  more  care  than  stone,  as 
the  bricks,  in  time,  become  discolored,  and  require  to  be 
stained  and  penciled  over. 

Security  from  fire  is  another  consideration  in  favor  of 
stone  and  brick,  houses  of  these  materials  being  less  liable  to 
take  fire  from  the  outside ;  but  when  once  well  started  in- 
side, a  fire  will  do  as  much  damage  to  furnishings  and 
contents  as  in  a  building  of  wood. 

Comparative  Cost. 

The  cost  of  buildings  of  brick  and  stone,  of  course,  is 
much  more  than  of  wood,  being  about  twenty-five  per  cent 
more  for  brick  and  more  yet  for  stone.  The  cost  of  stone 
mainly  depends  upon  the  locality  of  the  quarry,  the  quality 
of  the  stone  itself,  the  means  of  transportation,  and  the  ease 
with  which  it  can  be  worked. 

As  brick  clay  is  found  in  almost  every  locality,  the  cost 
of  brick  depends  simply  upon  the  cost  of  labor,  fuel  for  burn- 
ing, and  the  relation  of  supply  and  demand.  It  may  be 
well  to  state  that  quality  depends  much  upon  the  methods 
and  thoroughness  of  burning  the  brick.  This  matter  should 
be  looked  to  in  the  purchase  of  brick.  Beautiful  enameled 
brick  of  many  colors  are  now  made,  but  their  cost  is  too 
great  to  bring  them  into  general  use,  though  for  special  pur- 
poses they  give  a  pleasing  effect. 

Veneer  Brick  and  Stone  Work. 

A  very  nice  plan  for  building  what  may  be  called  a 
half -stone   or   veneer-stone    house,  is    as   follows:     On   the 


VENEER  BRICK  AND  STONE  WORK.  59 

completed  foundation  wall,  back  some  five  inches  from  the 
outer  edge  of  the  water-table,  a  frame,  as  for  a  frame  house, 
is  erected  of  two  by  six-inch  studding  in  the  usual  manner, 
and  then  boarded  on  the  inside;  fill  in  from  the  outside  five 
inches  thick  with  brick  and  mortar  against  boarding,  and 
on  top  of  water-table,  outside  of  brick  and  mortar,  set  with 
cement  a  veneer  of  sawed  stone  four  inches  thick,  of  con- 
venient size,  and  anchor  each  stone  to  the  studding  with 
small  iron  hooks.  So  build  up,  fitting  in  window  sills  and 
caps,  and  finish  with  modern  gothic  roof,  and  the  house  is, 
to  all  outward  appearance,  of  solid  stone. 

We  can  see  no  reason  why  buildings  erected  by  this  plan 
are  not  as  durable  as  most  houses.  The  wood  is  thoroughly 
protected,  and  if  the  foundation  wall  is  well  laid,  no  damage 
can  arise  from  settling.  We  know  of  some  such  houses  that 
have  been  standing  for  many  years,  and  are  said  to  be  in  a 
perfect  state  of  preservation. 

Brick  veneer  is  made  on  the  same  principle.  One  four- 
inch  course  of  brick  is  laid  from  the  foundation  to  top  of 
outer  wall,  anchored  once  in  five  courses,  and  the  building 
is  taken  for  one  of  solid  brick.  The  framing  for  these 
should  be  quite  dry,  and  rendered  very  strong  by  bridging. 

This  class  of  buildings,  we  think,  should  not  be  encour- 
aged in  city  or  town  where  houses  are  so  compact,  as  in 
case  of  fire  the  whole  wall  may  tumble  down  when  least 
expected,  burying  the  firemen  under  it.  Being  but  four 
inches  thick,  such  walls  in  reality  furnish  but  little  protec- 
tion against  intense  heat  from  surrounding  buildings  on  fire. 

Houses  of  brick  or  stone  are,  in  consequence  of  thick 
walls,  much  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in  summer  than 
buildings  of  wood.     The  walls  should  be  furred  by  fasten- 


60 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


ing  strips  to  them  and  lathing  to  these  strips,  leaving  a  dead 
space  between  the  plaster  and  brick  or  stone.  This  keeps 
ont  the  moisture,  and  prevents  the  annoyance  of  "  sweating  " 
walls.  If  the  cellar  of  any  house  is  not  a  perfectly  dry  one, 
put  on  one  coat  of  good  mortar  overhead.  This  effectually 
prevents  the  passing  of  dampness  from  the  cellar,  and  makes 
a  warm  first  floor. 

The  modern  brick  houses  of  more  elaborate  finish  are 
now  trimmed  with  some  of  the  many  fine  stones  to  be  found 
in  different  localities.  The  contrast  produced  by  the  fine 
red  of  the  brick  and  the  quiet  shades  of  the  stone  in  sills, 
belting-courses,  window  and  door  caps,  and  the  various 
other  ways  in  which  it  may  be  needed,  is  very  pleasing 
indeed.  We  think  it  desirable  to  lay  the  stone  flush  with 
the  brick ;  this  keeps  it  cleaner,  and  it  stands  better.  Pro- 
jecting  belts  and  courses  must  drop  off  the  water,  which 
leaves  soiled  marks  in  its  course. 

When  the  foregoing  facts  are  carefully  weighed,  we 
think  that  the  majority  will  agree  with  us  in  saying  that 
when  it  is  intended  to  put  over  four  thousand  dollars  into  a 
house,  it  should  be  constructed  of  brick  or  stone,  or  both, 
if  the  locality  is  such  that  it  can  be  done  without  exagger- 
ated difference  in  cost. 


dMJVPTRK    VIM, 


VALUABLE  SUGGESTIONS  AND  RULES. — METHODS  OF  ESTIMAT- 
ING WORK  AND  MATERIAL.  —  HOW  TO  FIND  THE 
AMOUNT  OF  LUMBER  NECESSARY  TO  ERECT  A  GIVEN 
BUILDING. — PRICES   OF   LABOR. 


o^Kc 


XCAVATING  CELLARS.— This  is  estimated  by 
the  cord  of  128  cubic  feet,  by  the  square  foot,  or 
square  yard.  One  to  two  dollars  per  cord  is 
usually  paid,  according  to  hardness  of  the  subsoil. 
Drains, — So  much  per  lineal  foot,  according 
to  depth  and  hardness  of  subsoil.  Pipes  for 
drains  cost  in  proportion  to  their  size. 

Stone-ivork    for    foundations,  —  Usually   16| 

cubic  feet,  estimated  at  so  much  per  perch,  laid 

in  the  wall,  and   costs  according  to  kind  and 

quality  of  stone. 

Briclc-work — Is  figured  by  number  of  cubic  feet  in  the 

wall,  22  common  brick  to  the  foot.     Prices  for  laying  up 

the  wall  vary  with  cost  of  labor. 

Plastering. — This  is  estimated  by  the  square  yard, — for 
three-coat  work,  twenty-five  cents;  and  two-coat  work, 
twenty  cents  per  square  foot,  including  mortar.  Stucco  or 
plaster  cornice  work,  from  thirty  cents  up,  per  lineal  foot. 

[611 


6C  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

For  center-pieces  of  stucco,  the  cost  is  two  dollars  and 
upward. 

Carpenter-work. — For  framing,  compute  the  number  of 
feet  of  board  measure  in  frame,  and  to  the  cost  of  this  add 
eight  dollars  per  thousand  feet  for  ordinary  framing.  For 
brick  walls,  allow  five  dollars  per  thousand  feet  for  labor;  for 
common  boarding  of  walls,  roofs,  and  rough  floors,  add  to  the 
cost  of  boards  four  dollars  per  thousand  feet  for  labor ;  for 
shingles,  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  thousand  for  laying. 

Cornicing — -Must  be  estimated  at  so  much  per  lineal  foot, 
and  costs  according  to  the  amount  of  work. 

Windows — Are  reckoned  by  the  piece,  considering  finish 
inside  and  out,  all  complete  save  the  glazing. 

Doors. — Double  doors  for  entrance,  if  of  pine,  are  twelve 
dollars  per  pair  upward,  according  to  style, — walnut,  from 
thirty  dollars  upward;  common  doors,  from  six  dollars  up- 
ward; inside  sliding  doors,  from  twenty  dollars  per  pair, 
upward,  according  to  finish. 

Floors, — Laid,  add  one  dollar  to  cost  of  every  ten  square 
feet  of  lumber.  For  base,  the  cost  is  so  much  per  lineal  foot 
for  lumber,  and  three  dollars  per  hundred  feet  put  down ; 
wainscoting,  so  much  per  square  foot. 

Staircases.  —  Common,  straight,  cylinder  staircases, 
with  curved  rail,  and  casings  at  all  angles  of  stringers,  and 
common  newel  posts  and  turned  banisters,  cost  about  forty- 
five  dollars;  winding  stairs,  ninety  dollars;  and  so  on,  the 
cost  varying  with  the  amount  of  work. 

Bay-windows, — One  story,  forty -five  dollars ;  two  stories, 
eighty-five  dollars. 

Clapboarding  or  weather-boarding. — For  this  work, 
add  to  cost  of  lumber  ten  dollars  per  thousand  feet,  but  if 
much  fitting  Ls  required  this  amount  will  not  be  enough. 


METHODS  OF  ESTIMATING  WORK.  63 

Painting — Is  computed  at  so  much  a  square  yard ;  and 
for  glazing,  take  the  size  and  consult  .some  good  dealer  or  a 
good  price  list. 

Cresting — Costs  so  much  per  lineal  foot. 

Hardware  and  plumbing — Cost  according  to  the 
quality  of  material  and  the  amount  of  work. 

In  the  foregoing  estimate  the  prices  quoted  are  perhaps 
an  average ;  in  the  country  the  cost  will  usually  be  less. 

Measuring. 

A  foot  of  lumber  is  a  piece  12  inches  square  and  1  inch 
thick;  a  board  12  inches  wide,  1  inch  thick,  and  10  feet  long- 
contains  10  feet  of  lumber. 

To  measure  boards, — Multiply  the  length  in  feet  by  the 
width  in  inches,  and  divide  by  12;  the  result  is  the  number 
of  feet  in  the  board  if  1  inch  thick;  if  1^  inches  thick,  add 
\;  if  l£  inch  thick,  add  \\  if  2  inches  thick,  the  board  will 
contain  twice  as  many  feet,  and  so  on. 

To  measure  a  pile  of  lumber. — If  the  boards  are  of 
equal  length  and  width,  multiply  the  feet  in  one  board  by 
the  number  of  boards,  ^f  the  boards  are  of  equal  length, 
but  vary  in  width,  measure  each  board  with  a  tape-line, 
drawing  it  out  as  each  board  is  measured ;  and  when  the  pile 
is  completed,  examine  the  tape-line,  find  how  many  feet  you 
have  measured  off,  and  multiply  this  by  the  length,  in  feet, 
of  one  board.  If  the  boards  vary  in  length,  they  must  be 
measured  separately,  or  averaged. 

To  find  number  of  feet  in  studding,  etc. — Multiply 
length  and  breadth  in  inches  by  length  in  feet,  and  divide 
the  product  by  1 2.  The  result  will  be  number  of  feet  in  the 
stick. 


64  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

To  find  how  many  feet  of  lumber  a  log  will  make. — 
Take  the  average  diameter  in  inches  and  subtract  4,  square 
one-fourth  of  the  remainder,  and  multiply  by  the  length  of 
the  log  in  feet.  The  result  will  be  the  correct  number  of  feet 
that  the  log  will  make. 

Amount  of  lumber  for  a  given  building. — By  apply- 
ing the  foregoing  rules,  any  one  may  find  the  number  of  feet 
of  lumber  required  for  a  given  building.  Begin  with  sills, 
and  calculate  for  each  kind  of  lumber  separately,  adding  the 
results.  For  clapboarding,  add  one-third  for  lapping;  for 
matched  flooring,  add  one-fifth  for  waste. 

Shingles. — The  number  of  shingles  required  for  a  roof 
is  usually  estimated  at  one  thousand  for  every  square,  or  one 
hundred  square  feet;  hence,  find  the  square  feet  in  the  roof 
and  divide  by  one  hundred, — result  is  the  number  of  thou- 
sand shingles.  This  estimate  is  ample,  and  with  good  shin- 
gles 1000  should  lay  125  to  140  feet. 

Or,  find  the  area  in  inches,  multiply  the  width  of  a 
shingle  by  the  length  exposed  to  the  weather,  and  clivide  the 
area  by  the  product.  This  gives  the  number  of  shingles, 
but  there  must  be  allowance  made  for  waste.  Shingles  are 
laid  from  three  to  six  inches  to  the  weather,  according  to 
length,  and  they  vary  in  width,  four  inches  being  the 
average  width. 

For  clapboarding, — Add  one-third  to  the  number  of 
surface  feet  to  be  covered,  for  boards,  6  inches  wide,  laid  4| 
inches  to  the  weather. 

For  flooring, — add  one-fifth  to  the  surface  feet,  for 
matching. 

In  plastering — It  is  customary  to  compute  the  whole 
area  and  deduct  one-half  the  area  of  doors  and  windows,  but 
in  some  places  no  deduction  is  made. 


CLxFmF^KK    IX. 


CHOUSE  PAINTING,^ 


ITS  PHILOSOPHY. — BEST  TIME  TO  PAINT. — KINDS  OF 
PAINT. — COLORS. — MIXING. — OILS  AND  DRIERS. — APPLY- 
ING PAINTS.  —  PRIMING.  —  SECOND  COAT.  —  FINISHING 
COAT.  — BRUSHES.  — GENERAL   SUGGESTIONS. 


^oXJ^c 


AINT,  composed  of  a  mixture  of  oil  and  mineral, 
generally  white  lead,  and  applied  to  wood,  iron, 
and  even  stone,  acts  as  a  preserver  by  shielding 
the  surface  from  the  action  of  rain  and  the 
atmosphere. 

A  building  left  unpainted  any  length  of  time, 
absorbs  moisture  quickly ;  and  besides  rendering 
the  rooms  unhealthful,  by  reason  of  moisture,  it 
decays  very  rapidly. 

The  best  time  to  apply  paint  is  in  the  spring 
or  autumn.  Cool  weather,  if  dry,  is  better,  as 
the  paint  hardens  naturally  and  presents  a  firmer  surface  to 
the  action  of  the  elements.  In  summer,  when  exposed  to 
the  sun,  the  oil  in  the  paint  soaks  into  the  wood  and  leaves 
the  lead  to  crumble  and  wear  off  quickly ;  yet  if  care  is  taken 
to  apply  the  paint  at  proper  hours,  the  action  of  the  sun  will 
affect  it  but  little. 

5  [65] 


6G  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Kinds  of  Paint. 

Pure  white  lead  is  the  base  or  body  of  all  durable 
paints,  and  is  vastly  superior  to  all  others  for  first  coats. 
Owing  to  the  fact,  however,  that  it  is  prepared  by  an  acid 
process,  it  is  not  so  good  in  a  pure  state  for  outside  coats,  as 
it  is  in  many  cases  not  thoroughly  washed  and  contains 
more  or  less  acid,  and  wThen  so  exposed  to  sun  and  rain  the 
presence  of  the  acid  is  liable  to  make  it  powder  and  rub  off 
like  whitewash. 

Zinc,  which  is  prepared  by  fire  process  (oxidized),  con- 
tains no  acid  or  other  injurious  substance;  and  when  mixed 
with  white  lead,  it  forms  the  best  outside  coats,  the  zinc 
neutralizing  the  acid  in  the  lead  and  giving  additional  firm- 
ness to  the  body. 

The  mineral  paints  contain  iron  as  their  base,  and  are 
mixed  with  oil  and  prepared  for  use  as  lead  and  zinc. 
Many  manufacturers  now  put  up  paint  in  cans,  ready  for 
use,  and  there  is  abundant  room  for  deception.  Consumers 
should  beware  and  purchase  of  reliable  dealers. 

Coloes. 

Which  color  should  be  used  in  painting  a  house,  is 
purely  a  matter  of  taste.  The  surroundings  determine  this 
to  a  great  degree.  A  house  surrounded  with  heavy  foliage 
would  require  a  lighter  tint  than  one  standing  in  an  open 
space.  Every  house  should  have  two  or  more  tints;  the 
cornice  and  verandas  should  be  of  a  contrasting  shade  with 
the  body  of  the  house,  while  the  shutters,  etc.,  should  have  a 
darker  tint  than  either.  Of  the  various  colors,  the  olive  tints 
in  their  different  shades  are  very  pleasing  to  the  eye,  also 


HOUSE  PAINTING.  67 

lavender,  drabs,  stone,  etc.  A  pea-green  is  a  very  healthful 
color,  and  with  proper  contrasts  in  veranda  and  shutters  is 
very  pleasing. 

Mixing  Colors. 

An  endless  variety  of  colors  and  tints  can  be  produced 
by  mixing.  The  following  are  only  a  few  of  them, — such 
as  may  be  serviceable: — 

Stone  Color. — White  lead  and  a  little  black. 

Drab. — White  lead  with  burnt  umber  and  a  little  yellow 
ochre  for  a  warm  tint ; '  raw  umber  and  a  little  black  for  a 
green  tint. 

Sky-blue. — White  lead  with  Prussian  blue. 

Buf. — White  lead  with  yellow  ochre. 

Cream-color. — Add  more  white  to  the  buff. 

Olive-green. — Raw  umber  with  Prussian  blue,  thinned 
with  boiled  oil  and  turpentine. 

Pea-green. — White  lead  with  Prussian  blue  and  chrome- 
yellow. 

Lead  Color. — White  lead  and  black. 

Oils  and  Driers. 

Oils  and  turpentine  should  be  pure  and  free  from  dust 
and  other  substances. 

To  assist  the  process  of  drying  paints,  driers  are  used. 
Those  most  in  use  are  sugar  of  lead,  litharge,  and  white 
copperas.  When  ground  and  mixed  with  paint,  they  assist 
the  process  of  drying  very  much.  Where  it  does  not  affect 
the  color,  red  lead  may  be  used  as  a  drier. 

Boiled  linseed  oil  with  litharge,  one  gallon  of  the 
former  with  one-fourth  pound  of  the  latter  reduced  to  a 
powder,   makes   an   excellent   drier.       It   should   here    be 


68  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

remarked  that  driers  have  a  tendency  to  injure  the  colors, 
and  hence  should  not  be  used  in  finishing  coats. 

Applying  Paints. 

Before  applying  paint,  the  surface  to  be  painted  should 
be  carefully  cleaned,  and  all  projections  of  glue,  putty,  and 
whiting  removed  with  knife  and  duster. 

Knots  should  be  killed  by  the  application  of  knotting. 
which  is  made  with  red  lead,  carefully  ground  and  thinned 
with  boiled  oil ;  another  and  better  plan  is  to  apply  a  varnish 
of  shellac. 

If  knots  are  neglected,  they  give  out  turpentine  and 
destroy  the  paint.  Shellac  is  a  gum,  in  natural  state,  and 
can  be  dissolved  in  alcohol  in  the  proportion  of  three  pounds 
of  gum  to  one  gallon  of  spirits ;  twenty -four  hours  is  suffi- 
cient time  to  dissolve  it,  when  it  is  known  as  shellac  varnish, 
and  by  adding  proper  coloring  matter,  it  forms  an  excellent 
varnish  for  many  purposes.  Paint  should  never  be  applied 
to  damp  or  wet  surfaces,  as  it  is  sure  to  peel  off. 

Priming. 
After  the  knotting  is  complete,  the  priming,  or  first  coat, 
should  be  applied.  This  coat  should  be  composed  chiefly  of 
white  lead,  mixed  with  a  very  small  quantity  of  red  lead, 
and  should  be  about  the  thickness  of  milk.  Eight  to  twelve 
gallons  of  oil  to  every  one  hundred  pounds  of  lead,  is  about 
the  proportion ;  and  one  pound  should  cover  fifteen  to  twenty 
square  yards.  It  is  not  necessary  that  this  first  or  priming 
coat  should  be  of  the  color  intended  for  finishing,  as  the 
later  coats  will  secure  the  desired  tint.  In  some  cases  a 
second  priming  coat,  thinner  than  the  first,  is  laid  on,  in 
which  case  two  coats  more  will  make  an  extra  good  job  of 
painting. 


HOUSE  PAINTING.  60 

After  the  priming  coat  is  quite  dry,  all  nail-holes,  cracks, 
and  other  defects  should  be  filled  with  putty,  smoothing  all 
rough  places  with  fine  sand-paper.  In  priming  old  walls, 
remove  dirt  and  decayed  wood  with  sand-paper  and  pumice- 
stone  ;  shellac  sizing  may  also  be  applied  if  the  wood  is  some- 
what porous,  and  more  red  lead  used  than  on  first  coat  for 
new  work. 

If  brick  buildings  are  to  be  painted,  the  priming  coat 
should  be  native  minerals,  such  as  ochres,  Venetian  red,  or 
iron,  with  a  proper  amount  of  raw  linseed  oil,  as  these  will 
adhere  more  permanently  and  make  a  good  foundation  for 
future  coats. 

Second  Coat. 

This  coat  is  a  color  coat,  and  the  tint,  if  paint  is  not 
already  prepared  with  desired  color,  can  be  made  from  the 
directions  previously  given  for  mixing  colors.  This  coat 
should  be  a  shade  darker  than  the  finishing  coat. 

The  paint  for  this  coat  should  be  moderately  thick;  if 
applied  in  cold  weather  or  under  unfavorable  circumstances, 
the  quantity  of  driers  must  be  increased.  If  the  work  is  to 
be  left  shining,  this  coat  should  be  thinned  almost  entirely 
with  linseed-oil,  in  which  case  no  driers  will  be  needed. 

Finishing  Coat. 

If  the  work  is  to  be  glossy  when  finished,  use  more  oil 
than  turpentine  and  no  driers ;  but  if  the  work  is  not  to  be 
glossy, — -fiat, — use  turpentine  for  thinning.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  bring  this  coat  to  the  desired  tint,  and  it  should  be 
laid  on  j  ust  as  soon  as  the  former  coat  is  dry  enough  to  work 
over.  This  coat  should  be  of  same  consistency  of  the  pre- 
ceding, and  laid  on  with  the  utmost  care. 


70  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Bkushes. 

Brushes  are  made  of  all  sizes,  both  round  and  flat,  and 
are  chiefly  of  bristles;  the  best  for  outside  work  are 
called  wall-brushes,  from  three  to  five  inches  in  width.  For 
inside  and  small  work  the  round  brush  is  best.  When  out 
of  use,  brushes  should  be  carefully  washed  in  turpentine  and 
laid  out  of  the  reach  of  dust.  When  using,  they  should  be 
left  over  night  immersed  in  linseed  oil  or  turpentine. 

Varnish  brushes  should  be  washed  in  turpentine,  and 
should  they  be  left  full  of  varnish  and  dry  they  may  be 
cleaned  by  soaking  in  alcohol  for  twenty-four  to  thirty-six 
hours.  Where  it  is  practicable,  a  separate  brush  should  be 
used  in  different  colors ;  especially  is  this  true  where  delicate 
tints  are  used. 

General  Suggestions  on  Outside  Painting. 

Posts  and  pillars  may  be  made  to  represent  stone,  by  the 
following  process :  Procure  a  hand  bellows,  mash  the  nozzle 
down  flat;  into  the  nozzle,  two  inches  from  end,  solder  a 
small  funnel,  and  before  the  finishing  coat  of  paint  dries, 
throw  white  sand  by  means  of  the  funnel  and  bellows 
against  the  pillar.  The  sand  will  adhere,  and  when  dry, 
the  work  resembles  stone  very  closely.  By  procuring  col- 
ored sand,  pleasing  combinations  can  be  made. 

For  barns  and  other  out-houses,  the  best  paints  are  those 
which  contain  iron  as  a  base,  as  the  boards  are  usually 
rough  and  this  class  of  paints  generally  protects  such  sur- 
faces as  well  or  better  than  the  finer  paints,  besides  being 
cheaper.  Brushes  should  be  heavy,  as  they  wear  very  rap- 
idly. In  this  class  of  work,  a  variety  of  colors  costs  no  more, 
and  adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the  work. 


HOUSE  PAINTING.  71 

Inside  Painting. 

Hard  woods,  as  walnut,  ash,  and  oak,  look  quite  well  in 
oil -finish,  which  is  always  popular,  and  preserves  the  wood 
quite  well.  The  wood  should  be  well  filled  with  a  mixture 
of  gilder's  whiting,  or  corn-starch  and  boiled  linseed  oil  to 
the  consistency  of  cream,  applied  with  a  brush ;  after  stand- 
ing a  little  while,  the  work  should  be  thoroughly  wiped  off 
with  woolen  rags. 

After  standing  a  week,  or  till  well  dried,  the  work 
should  be  well  sand-papered  with  No.  \  sand-paper  or  hair- 
cloth, when  another  coat  should  be  applied  and  rubbed  off 
as  before.  When  dry,  the  work  is  ready  for  the  finishing 
or  gloss  coat,  which  consists  of  boiled  oil,  applied  with  a  soft 
brush,  and  if  a  dead  gloss  is  wanted,  this  coat  should  be 
rubbed  with  soft  woolen  rags.  If  high  gloss  is  desired,  omit 
the  rubbing  and  repeat  the  coat.  Coach  varnish  will  give 
a   high    gloss,  but   it   is    liable  to  damage  from    scratches. 

Plastered  walls  may  be  painted  any  desirable  tint  by  ob- 
serving the  foregoing  directions ;  it  may  be  well  to  observe 
that  plaster  soaks  up  more  paint  than  wood,  and  hence  re- 
quires more  coats  after  the  first  coat.  It  is  well  to  give  the 
work  a  light  glue  size  before  applying  the  next  coat,  as  it 
will  give  a  much  more  even  gloss. 

Oil  and  Shellac  Finish. 

A  very  cheap  and  at  the  same  time  a  popular  method  of 
finishing  inside  wood- work,  is  to  apply  one  coat  of  boiled  oil, 
and  when  dry,  apply  a  finishing  coat  of  varnish  and  oil 
mixed,  or  shellac  varnish  alone.  The  natural  grain  of  the 
wood  is  preserved,  and  it  can  be  kept  clean  easily;  the  wood 
when  thus  finished  is  a  shade  darker  than  its  natural  color. 

Another  plan  is  to  apply  two  coats  of  varnish,  without 
the  oil,  leaving  the  wood  very  glossy,  but  liable  to  scratch 
easily.  If  ever  desirable  afterward,  the  wood  can  be  painted 
as  usual. 


72  OUR  HOMES  AND   THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Graining. 

draining  is  a  tedious  but  not  too  difficult  business  for 
a  person  of  ordinary  intelligence  to  attempt  with  a  fair 
degree  of  success.  In  the  outset,  a  clear  idea  of  the  wood  to 
be  represented,  should  be  in  mind.  A  good  plan,  where  the 
commoner  woods  are  to  be  represented,  is  to  procure  a 
board  having  one  or  more  sound  knots  and  plane  it  off,  and 
with  this  for  a  model,- proceed  to  grain  the  job  in  hand. 

Before  the  graining  properly  commences,  the  work 
should  be  made  very  smooth  with  sand-paper  and  putty, 
and  one  or  more  priming  coats  of  white  lead  should  be  laid 
on  and  allowed  to  dry;  the  work  is  then  ready  for  ground 
coat. 

The  Tools. 

These  are  few  and  comparatively  inexpensive, — besides  the 
brushes  necessary  for  applying  the  color,  steel  combs,  coarse 
and  fine,  and  soft,  cotton  rags. 

The  brushes  and  combs  can  be  found  at  any  store  where 
paints  are  sold.  Formerly  a  leather  comb  was  used,  and 
may  be  desirable;  if  so,  any  one  can  make  it,  using  stiff 
leather. 

The  Ground. 

This  is  the  base  of  the  graining,  and  should  be  as  near 
the  color  of  the  wood  as  possible,  care  being  taken  not  to  get 
it  too  dark. 

The  ground  for  maple,  ash,  and  oak  is  about  the  same, 
a  light  cream  for  the  maple  and  a  shade  darker  for  the  oak 
and  ash ;  walnut  ground  is  of  a  deep  copper  color. 


HOUSE  PAINTING.  73 

The  Graining  Color, 

or  the  color  which  shows  the  veins  and  growth  of  the  wood, 
is  the  most  important,  as  the  delicate  lines  of  the  wood  are  to 
be  traced  in  it.  When  the  ground  has  been  laid  on  and  is 
quite  dry,  this  graining  coat  is  laid  on,  and  while  yet  moist, 
the  tracings  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  wood  are  made. 

Before  proceeding  to  give  specific  instructions,  it  may  be 
well  to  note  a  few  general  suggestions  on  the  figuring  of 
woods. 

Knots  should  have  a  dark  center  with  a  succession  of 
very  irregular  circles,  which  on  the  outer  edge  become 
elongated  till  they  merge  into  the  sap  of  the  timber  length- 
wise. 

The  sap,  which  in  the  natural  wood  is  the  smooth, 
shining  part  of  the  board,  is  made  by  wiping  off  the  grain- 
ing coat  with  a  cotton  rag  drawn  over  the  thumb,  the  nail 
of  which  is  made  to  outline  the  sap,  while  by  means  of  the 
fleshy  part  the  broader  lights  of  sap  may  be  wiped  out, 
observing  to  move  the  rag  with  every  stroke  to  present  a 
clean  surface  for  the  next.  After  having  wiped  the  figures, 
they  should  be  retouched  with  a  small  roll  of  clean  rag. 

Veining  or  Combing. 

Take  a  coarse  steel  or  leather  comb  and  draw  it  down 
lengthwise  of  the  wood,  and  go  over  the  same  with  a  finer 
comb.  Next  take  a  fine  comb  and  go  over  this  work ;  at 
irregular  intervals  give  the  comb  a  quick  wavy  motion, 
diagonally,  thus  imitating  the  growths  of  the  wood.  In  all 
cases  the  combing  should  precede  the  sap  work. 


74         our  homes  and  their  adornments. 

Ash  Graining. 

Ground. — White  lead,  raw  Italian  sienna,  or  golden 
ochre  instead  of  sienna,  mixed  with  turpentine  and  oil, 
using  small  proportions  of  oil.  To  get  the  desired  color, 
which  should  be  a  light  straw  tint,  keep  adding  sienna  to 
the  lead,  and  try  it  frequently  on  a  board.  ■  Apply  with  a 
brush  very  smoothly.  Observe  that  this  ground  is  the  same 
also  for  light  oak  and  maple. 

Graining  Color. — Raw  sienna,  burnt  umber,  and  white 
lead  mixed  with  turpentine  and  very  little  oil  form  the  grain- 
ing color.  The  tint  is  darker  than  the  ground  tint,  and  is 
made  in  the  same  way.  The  graining  coat  must  be  put  on 
in  small  quantity  so  that  the  work  may  be  done  before  it 
dries. 

To  prevent  the  paint  from  running,  add  a  small  quantity 
of  soft  soap.  Proceed,  with  the  graining  as  in  foregoing 
instructions,  and  if  a  mistake  is  made,  apply  more  paint  and 
begin  anew.     Apply  one  or  more  coats  of  varnish. 

Old  Oak. 

Ground. — Raw  sienna,  burnt  umber,  white  lead,  and 
Venetian  red ;  mix  with  equal  parts  of  turpentine  and  oil  to 
the  desired  tint.     Let  this  dry  well. 

Grain. — Vandyke  brown,  and  raw  sienna,  turpentine, 
and  small  amount  of  oil. 

Bird's-eye  Maple. — Destemper. 


Ground. — White  lead,  yellow  ochre,  or  same  as  for  ash. 

:  care  not  to  get  it  too  dark. 

Grain. — Equal  parts  of  raw  sienna  and  burnt  umber, 


HOUSE  FAINT  TNG.  75 

mixed  with  ale  or  beer.  Have  two  paint  buckets  and  make 
two  thicknesses  of  paint. 

Lay  on  the  thin  coat  first  evenly,  then  with  a  smaller 
brush  put  in  the  darker  shades.  The  eye  is  made  by 
dabbing  the  color  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers;  shade  the 
eye  with  a  little  burnt  sienna,  using  a  small  hair  pencil. 
When  dry,  varnish. 

Mahogany. — 1.  Vandyke  brown  and  a  little  crimson 
lake  ground  in  ale,  laid  on,  allowed  to  dry,  and  then 
smoothed,  forms  the  ground.  Then  lay  on  a  second  thicker 
coat,  soften  with  a  badger-hair  brush,  take  out  the  lights 
while  it  is  wet,  and  imitate  the  feathery  appearance  of 
mahogany  heart.  Soften,  and  top  grain  with  Vandyke 
brown  laid  on  with  an  over-graining  brush  of  flat  hog-hair 
combed  into  detached  tufts.  In  sof tening-  be  careful  not  to 
disturb  the  under  color.  Or,  2.  Grind  burnt  sienna  and 
Vandyke  brown  in  ale,  lay  on  a  coat,  mottle  with  a  camel- 
hair  mottler,  and  soften.     When  dry,  over-grain  as  above. 

For  the  proper  varnishes  to  use,  the  reader  is  referred  to 
that  department  of  this  work. 

It  is  a  matter  of  great  difficulty  to  prevent  varnish  on 
outside  doors  from  t  cracking;  for  this  reason,  painters 
recommend  that  a  coat  of  oil  be  applied  instead,  and  where 
it  becomes  dingy,  apply  more  oil  with  a  rag.  This  will 
avoid  the  cracking  and  preserve  the  graining. 

Doors  of  the  parlor  may  be  ebonized  if  the  furniture  and 
carpets  will  harmonize  with  it.  (See  Varnishes  and  Wood 
Dyes.) 


QHApTRR      ]^# 


DESCRIPTIONS  AND  SPECIFICATIONS  CONTINUED. — LATHING 
AND  PLASTERING. — CARPENTER  WORK. — TIN  ROOFS. — 
CRESTINGS  AND  FINIALS. — DOORS,  WINDOWS,  BLINDS, 
AND  SHUTTERS. —  INSIDE  FINISH. — MAIN  ROOM  AND 
KITCHEN. — PLUMBING. — GLAZING. — STORM   DOORS. 


0>»<C 


ATHING  and  Plastering. — In  wooden  build- 
ings the  walls  should  be  made  even,  so  that 
when  the  plastering  is  put  on,  the  wall  will 
present  no  "ins  and  outs."  This  may  be  effected 
by  trimming  all  the  timbers  down  to  an  equal 
width  before  lathing. 

Stone  and  brick  walls  should  be  furred  with 
strips;  for  brick  they  are  one  by  two  inches, 
nailed  to  the  bond  timbers  laid  in  the  walls,  once 
in  nine  or  ten  courses,  as  they  are  built  up,  and 
for   stone   two  by  four  inches,  nailed  to  plugs 

or  wedges,  built  up  with  or  driven  into  the  walls.     These 

furring  strips  are  placed  sixteen  inches  apart  from  center  to 

center,  and  the  lathing  nailed  to  them. 

In  the  best  houses  it  is  customary  to  cross-fur  on  ceiling 

joists,  as  when  done,  the  plastering  is  less  liable  to  crack. 

[76] 


CONTRACTS  WITH  THE  CARPENTER,  77 

Laths  should  be  made  of  spruce,  pine,  or  other  soft  woods, 
and  thoroughly  seasoned  and  dried.  The  mortar  should  be 
made  of  first  quality  of  quicklime  and  good  sharp  sand, 
mixed  with  plenty  of  long  hair.  Ceilings  should  first  be 
gauged  with  a  mortar  of  plaster-of- Paris  and  lime,  followed 
by  a  coat  of  broivning,  or  common  mortar,  and  finished 
with  a  white,  hard  putty  coat  made  of  plaster  and  quicklime. 
In  the  better  class  of  houses,  three  coats  are  given  to  the 
ceilings,  and  two  to  the  walls;  this  prevents  the  laths  from 
showing  through  the  plaster.  All  angles  should  be  smoothed 
down,  and  corners  made  straight  and  true.  Stucco  cornice 
and  plaster  ornaments  for  ceilings  are  giving  way  to  paper, 
which  is  now  prepared  in  beautiful  designs  expressly  for 
ceilings. 

Carpenter  Work. 

In  most  parts  of  the  country  it  is  usually  the  custom  to 
let  the  contract  for  building  wooden  houses  to  the  carpenter, 
who  is  frequently  a  contractor,  and  sub-contracts  the  erec- 
tion to  other  parties. 

There  is  one  evil  in  this  method,  against  which  we  wish 
to  caution  our  readers,  viz:  When  the  contractor  gets  the 
whole  job  in  his  hands,  he  is  too  liable  to  seek  the  lowest 
priced  sub-contractor  for  the  different  kinds  of  work,  such  as 
plastering,  painting,  etc.,  and  the  result  is  a  poor  job 
throughout.  The  only  remedy  for  this  is  to  have  the  con- 
tractor select  his  subbuilders,  and  then  learn  whether  they 
are  trustworthy  before  awarding  him  the  contract. 

Another  plan  is  to  contract  the  different  kinds  of  work 
separately,  thus  securing  a  better  job,  as  no  speculation  is 
involved. 


78  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Framing  Timbers. 

These  may  be  of  any  lasting  wood,  and  hence  the  kind 
most  readily  obtained  will  be  used ;  spruce,  pine,  whitewood, 
poplar,  or  oak,  is  suitable.  In  many  localities  it  is  custom- 
ary to  use  sills  containing  about  twice  as  much  material 
as  is  necessary.  If  the  foundation  is  properly  made,  of 
brick  or  stone,  the  sills  may  be  two  by  six  inches,  but  if  the 
house  is  built  on  piers  or  posts,  the  sills  should  be  six  by 
eight  inches,  or  eight  inches  square,  with  the  corners  framed 
together,  and  the  joists  framed  in  even  writh  top  of  sills. 
When  smaller  timbers  are  used  on  brick  foundation,  the 
flooring  joists  are  not  framed  in,  but  rest  on  top  of  sills. 

The  studding  should  be  of  good  sound  wood,  free  from 
many  knots,  two  by  four  inches,  cut  to  an  even  length,  and 
gained  on  the  side  for  ledger  boards  which  support  second 
story  joists.  Each  studding  should  be  nailed  to  the  sill 
with  four  tenpenny  nails;  this  we  believe  to  be  better  than 
the  old  plan  of  mortising  into  the  sills,  as  in  that  case  they 
are  framed  very  loose,  and  cannot  stand  so  much  rough 
usage. 

The  plates  for  rafters  to  rest  upon  should  be  two  by  four 
inches,  and  should  be  doubled,  and  spiked  down  to  each 
studding  with  thirty-penny  nails. 

The  ledger  boards,  supporting  the  joists  of  second  story 
should  be  of  the  soundest  material,  one  by  five  inches,  let 
into  the  studding  and  spiked  to  them. 

The  first  and  second  story  joists  should  be  two  by  ten 
inches,  and  the  attic  joists  two  by  six  inches.  The  joist  of 
second  story  should  be  spiked  to  the  studding  with  thirty- 
penny  nails.     The  rafters,  if  for  shingles,  should  be  two  by 


CARPENTER  WORK.  70 

four  inches,  but  if  for  slate,  two  by  six ;  in  either  case  they 
should  be  set  sixteen  inches  apart,  center  to  center,  and 
collared  with  sound  boards  nailed  to  every  other  pair.  At 
doors  and  windows  the  studding  should  be  doubled  to  give 
more  strength  for  casings;  and  where  partitions  are  placed, 
the  floor  joists  should  be  doubled. 

Boarding  for  outside  walls  should  be  of  sound  pine, 
spruce,  hemlock,  or  whitewood,  one  inch  thick,  planed  on 
one  side,  laid  close  joint,  and  nailed  on  both  edges  at  every 
bearing.  The  same  kind  of  boards  should  be  used  for 
covering  the  rafters,  but  the  joints  should  be  laid  open;  and 
if  floors  are  to  be  laid  double,  this  kind  of  boarding  will 
answer  for  bottom  floor,  and  the  attic  floor  will  need  no 
other  flooring. 

Sheathing  Paper,  see  page  42. 

Shingle  Roofing,  see  page  42. 

Clapboarding,  see  page  43. 

Slate  roofs,  when  of  first-class  slate,  well  laid,  and  all 
joints  perfectly  fitted,  are  the  most  desirable  of  all  There 
are  many  varieties  of  slate,  and,  like  Joseph's  coat,  of  many 
colors.  It  has  been  the  custom  to  use  these  different  colored 
slates,  arranged  in  pleasing  figures,  and  presenting  a  very 
good  effect,  but. we  are  inclined  to  prefer  the  jet  black  slate; 
nothing  is  richer,  and  the  color  will  fade  but  slightly. 

The  slate  should  be  seven  by  fourteen  inches,  cut  to  any 
desirable  pattern  on  exposed  ends,  round,  hexagonal,  or 
clipped  on  the  corners.  Slate  should  be  laid  two  and  a  half 
inches  head  cover,  that  is,  each  slate  should  lap  over  the 
second  one  below  it  that  distance,  and  if  the  roof  is  not 
steep,  three-inch  laps  will  be  required. 

The  first  course  of  slate  must  be  doubled,  and  the  last 


80  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEM  ADORNMENTS. 

course  and  all  small  pieces  used  in  fitting  must  be  well 
bedded  in  elastic  cement,  made  and  for  sale  for  the  purpose. 

On  gothic  roofs,  and  in  fact  any  roof  where  the  roof 
makes  an  angle,  great  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  slate 
cut  and  set  to  a  perfect  joint;  but  as  they  can  never  be  cut 
so  as  to  make  a  perfectly  water-tight  joint,  each  course  must 
be  flashed  under  with  tin,  that  is,  tin  must  be  bent  over  the 
last  course  and  extend  up  on  sheathing  so  that  the  next 
course  will  hide  it.  All  valleys  (gutters  made  by  angles  of 
roofs)  must  of  course  be  made  of  tin,  and  the  slates  neatly 
fitted  and  set  in  cement. 

In  slating  about  chimneys,  the  tin  should  pass  under  the 
slate  and  turn  up  against  the  bricks ;  but  this  is  not  enough, 
this  tin  against  the  bricks  must  be  cap-flashed,  or  in  other 
words,  the  mortar  must  be  dug  out  of  bricks  just  above,  and 
tin  or  sheet  lead  inserted  and  turned  down,  then  no  leak  can 
occur. 

For  fire-proofing  shingle  roofs,  see  Recipes,  Varnishes, 
and  Paints. 

Tin  Roofs  and  Trimmings. 

Away  from  the  salt  atmosphere  of  the  coast,  tin  makes 
a  good  roof,  and  will  last,  if  good  and  well  put  on,  for  a 
long  time.  Owing  to  the  fact,  however,  that  there  are  many 
inferior  brands  used,  these  roofs  give  out  prematurely,  and 
in  consequence,  many  condemn  the  material.  The  best 
brands  are  M.  F.  Charcoal,  I.  X.,  and  I.  C,  ranking  in  qual- 
ity in  order  named ;  the  last  is  a  thinner  tin,  not  so  good,  of 
course,  but  much  used. 

All  portico,  veranda,  and  bay-window  roofs,  and  all 
sunk  gutters  on  same  should  be  covered  with  tin.  Tin  all 
window  caps,  turning  it  up  four  inches  under  the  clapboards. 


CRESTINGS,  DOOMS  AND  WINDOWS.  at 

The  bay-windows  require  especial  care,  being   so   exposed 

as  to  make  it  very  difficult  to  protect  them  from  leaking.     The 

tin  must  extend  up  under  the  clapboards,  and  around  the 

studding. 

The   conductors,  leading   water   from   the   roof  to  the 

ground,  should  be  made  of  good  material.     I.  X.  tin  will 

answer,  but  corrugated  galvanized  iron,  we  think,  is  best,  as 

it  will  expand  when  water  freezes  in  it,  but  will  not  burst. 

All  tin  roofs  and  trimmings  should  be  painted  with  mineral 

paint  as  soon  as  they  are  put  up.  •• 

■ 
Crestings  and  Finials. 

The  roofs  of  many  buildings  can  be  much  improved  in 
appearance  by  the  use  of  some  one  of  the  many  neat  designs 
of  ornamental  iron  crestings,  to  be  supplied  by  hardware 
dealers  or  manufacturers.  Finials  of  either  wood  or  iron 
look  well  upon  gables. 

Staircases,  see  p.  51. 

Floors,  see  p.  45. 

Portico  and  veranda  floors  should  be  laid  of  stuff  one  and 
one-fourth  inches  thick,  and  two  and  one-half  inches  wide; 
the  edges  should  be  painted  with  white  lead,  and  the  floor 
nailed  blind,  (i.  e.,  in  edges  of  boards,  so  that  the  nails  will 
not  show). 

Doors  and  Windows. 

All  styles  of  doors  and  windows  are  now  ready-made 
and  are  for  sale  everywhere,  so  it  is  only  necessary  to  specify 
in  the  contract  with  the  builder  the  kind  and  style  wanted, 
unless  special  designs  are  desired. 

Outside  and  sliding  doors  should  be  one  and  three-fourths 
inches  thick,  and  all  other  doors  one  and  three-eighths  inches 

6 


82  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

thick.  Material  must  be  thoroughly  kiln-dried,  and  free 
from  knots  and  sap.  Window  sash  and  frames  should  be 
fitted  snugly ;  and  above  all,  sash  should  be  hung  with  cord 
and  pulley  where  the  expense  can  possibly  be  borne.  Sash 
should  be  from  one  and  three-eighths  to  one  and  three-fourths 
inches  thick. 

If  not  hung  with  pulleys,  windows  should  be  supplied 
with  convenient  locks  to  hold  them  at  any  desired  height. 
The  casing  and  stops  about  windows  should  receive  great 
attention,  as  here  is  the  place  that  usually  admits  much  cold 
in  winter. 

Blinds  and  Shutters. 

These  are  very  desirable;  but  there  are  difficulties  in  the 
way  of  the  use  of  inside  blinds,  as  they  may  interfere  with 
the  window  drapery.  They  should  be  arranged  to  fold  on 
hinges,  fourfold  being  most  desirable.  The  slats  should  be 
made  horizontal,  as  they  hold  in  place  better  when  arranged 
for  the  admission  of  light. 

Outside  shutters  are  usually  one  and  one-fourth  inches 
thick,  and  should  be  made  of  the  best  material,  and  hung  in 
the  most  substantial  manner.  Like  doors,  blinds  and  shut- 
ters are  for  sale  ready-made,  and  in  contracting,  specifica- 
tion should  be  made  of  style  wanted.  Neat  locks  or  catches 
should  be  put  on  both  inside  and  outside  shutters. 

Inside  Finish — Wood-Work. 

Here  is  the  department  wh^re  good  taste  will  assert 
itself.  The  wood  finish  of  the  different  rooms  should  receive 
due  consideration  in  the  plans  and  specifications,  and  definite 
contract  of  what  is  to  be  done  should  be  made  with  builder. 


INSIDE  FINISH.  83 

For  buildings  of  medium  cost,  it  will  be  more  satisfac- 
tory to  finish  in  soft  wood,  and  pine  is  the  best.  When 
well  smoothed  down  and  varnished,  it  presents  a  beautiful 
contrast  with  the  furnishings;  and  as  it  is  the  cheapest,  all 
can  afford  it,  nor  should  it  be  discarded  by  any  because  it 
is  cheap.     It  can  be  easily  cleaned  and  re-varnished. 

Main  Rooms. 

These  should  have  molded  architraves  or  casings  on 
doors  and  windows,  of  neat  design,  resting  on  plinth  blocks 
at  the  floor.  Back  plaster  under  the  windows,  and  cover 
this  with  a  neat  sunk  panel,  extending  to  the  floor  and  fin- 
ished with  raised  moldings. 

Base  boards  should  be  paneled  and  finished  with  a  neat 
design  of  raised  moldings  on  the  top.  Exposed  or  project- 
ing corners  of  plastering  should  be  covered  with  turned 
beads  of  pine,  extending  four  feet  from  base  finished  with 
neat  turned  design  on  each  end. 

Second-floor  chambers  finished  same  as  main  rooms,  with 
architraves  one  inch  narrower. 

Kitchen. 

This  room  should  be  wainscoted  on  all  sides  three  feet 
high,  with  matched  and  beaded  sheathing,  not  to  exceed 
four  inches  in  width,  applied  vertically,  and  the  top  finished 
with  a  neat  molded  cap. 

The  pantry  should  be  finished  with  one  broad  shelf,  with 
space  beneath  for  flour  barrel,  which  should  be  closed  in  its 
place  with  a  door,  and  from  the  broad  shelf  above  cut  a 
door  through  to  reach  the  barrel.  Adjoining  the  barrel 
under  the  shelf,  place  a  tier  of  three  drawers,  and  if  the 


84  OUR  HOMES  sAND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

length  of  the  pantry  will  permit,  a  cupboard  may  also  be 
placed  under  the  shelf.  Finish  the  space  above  with  shelv- 
ing, hooks,  and  other  conveniences.  The  bath-room  should 
be  wainscoted  same  as  the  kitchen,  except  behind  the  tub, 
where  it  should  be  four  feet  high. 

The  bath-tub  must  be  paneled  in  front  with  raised 
molding  and  the  top  finished  with  a  molded  cap.  The 
water-closet  should  have  seat  and  tight-closing  cover,  both 
hinged  to  raise  separately,  and  the  riser  in  front  paneled 
like  bath-tub,  hinged  at  the  bottom,  and  secured  by  catch 
at  top,  for  convenience  in  repairs. 

The  wash-basin  should  be  supplied  with  neat  paneled 
door  and  one  drawer. 

The  Mantel. 

In  the  Eastern  States,  mantels  of  hard  wood  are  now 
quite  popular,  being  gotten  up  very  elaborately.  Cheaper 
ones  can  be  made  of  less  costly  woods,  and  when  finished 
properly  they  look  quite  well. 

The  mantel-shelf  should  rest  upon  two  uprights  of  wood 
which  form  the  sides  of  the  mantel,  and  these  should  be 
paneled  and  finished  with  raised  moldings.  The  board  im- 
mediately under  the  mantel-shelf  should  also  match  them. 
Our  preference,  however,  is  decidedly  in  favor  of  marbleized 
slate  mantels,  which  can  now  be  obtained  by  any  one  at  a 
reasonable  cost. 

Further  suggestions  on  mantels  will  be  found  under 
House  Fuknishing. 

Plumbing  and  Fitting. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  department  of  house  finishing  upon 
which  the  health  and  comfort  of  the  inmates  depends  more 


PLUMBING  AND  FITTING.  85 

than  plumbing  and  fitting,  and  probably  nothing  is  more 
annoying  and  dangerous  than  a  poor  and  incomplete  job  of 
this  work. 

There  is  no  part  of  the  work  connected  with  the  erection 
of  dwellings,  we  are  free  to  confess,  that  we  so  much  dislike 
to  contract  and  superintend,  and  in  a  measure  become  re- 
sponsible for,  as  the  plumbing. 

We  recommend  that  this  work  be  contracted  separately, 
and  that  none  but  the  best  workmen  be  allowed  to  figure  on 
the  job;  in  addition  to  this,  let  the  plans  and  specifications 
for  the  work  be  complete,  and  carefully  inspect  the  job  as  it 
progresses. 

We  deem  it  unnecessary  to  go  into  a  detailed  description 
of  plumbing  for  city  residences,  as  good,  trustworthy  work- 
men, under  the  direction  of  the  architect,  will  be  able  to 
dictate  what  should  be  done,  better  than  can  here  be 
described. 

For  those  who  have  not  public  water  supply,  we  give  a 
few  hints  that  will  be  of  value;  and  here  let  it  be  remarked 
that  for  the  additional  expense  incurred,  the  increased  com- 
forts and  better  health  will  fully  compensate  the  occupants. 

Our  description  contemplates  a  bath-room,  with  hot  and 
cold  water,  and  a  water-closet, — one  of  the  greatest  con- 
veniences of  a  house.  The  hot  water  attachments  may  be 
left  off,  if  expense  cannot  be  borne,  until  the  owner  is  better 
able  to  incur  the  cost. 

The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  in  the  connection  of 
the  pipes,  so  that  foul  gases  may  not  escape  into  the  rooms. 
A  tank  holding  from  two  to  ten  barrels  should  be  con- 
structed  in  the  attic  above  the  bath-room,  or  in  the  top  of 
the  bath-room,  near  the  ceiling ;   it  should  be  in  the  attic  if 


86  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  building  has  a  deck  or  flat  roof  so  that  the  water  may- 
be conducted  to  the  tank ;  if  a  pitch  roof,  the  tank  must  be 
in  bath-room. 

The  tank  should  be  well  supported  with  strong  posts  or 
partitions,  as  otherwise  the  weight  of  water  might  cause 
settling  of  building  and  cracking  of  the  plaster  work. 
Line  the  tank  inside  with  sheet  lead  or  zinc,  lead  being 
preferable.  A  wooden  tank  might  be  made  by  a  first-class 
workman,  but  it  is  not  so  durable,  and  more  liable  to  leak. 
Conducting  pipes  from  roof  must  empty  into  the  tank,  and 
a  pipe  from  the  force  pump  at  cistern,  or  well,  must  also 
empty  into  it  for  filling  in  case  of  long  droughts. 

A  pipe  to  prevent  the  tank  from  overflowing  should  be 
inserted  near  the  top  and  led  down  to  a  drain  or  sewer ;  its 
capacity  should  be  equal  to  the  capacity  of  the  conductors 
from  the  roof,  and  it  must  have  a  trap,  (simply  a  vertical 
bend  in  the  tube  like  the  letter  S,)  to  prevent  sewer  gas 
from  rising  from  the  drain  or  sewer. 

A  three-quarter  inch  supply  pipe  must  be  sealed  into  the 
bottom  of  the  tank  and  led  down  to  the  bath-tub,  where 
branches  should,  be  made  to  the  water-closet  and  lavatory 
(wash-basin).  Faucets  of  the  desired  pattern  should  be 
fixed  at  the  bath-tub  and  lavatory. 

Hot  water  may  be  obtained  by  setting  a  thirty  or 
forty  gallon  galvanized  iron  boiler  in  the  kitchen,  making 
all  necessary  couplings  with  the  stove  for  heating  the  water. 
A  pipe  leading  from  the  tank  just  described  will  keep  the 
boiler  supplied,  and  force  the  hot  water  up  into  the  bath- 
room for  supplying  tub  and  wash-basin,  and  also  for 
cleaning  and  scrubbing  purposes. 

The  bath-tub  should  be  lined  with  ten-ounce  planished 


PLUMBING  AND  FITTING.  87 

copper,  and  a  waste-pipe  soldered  into  bottom  of  tub,  and  also 
an  overflow  pipe  near  the  top,  both  connecting  below  the 
tub,  and  leading  off  to  the  soil  pipe  from  water-closet. 

Set  a  water-closet  near  the  tub,  (The  best  made  are  the 
A.  G.  Alexander,  and  the  Jennings  water-closets,  the  first 
being  preferable,)  and  connect  closet  with  a  four-inch  lead 
S  trap,  which  should  be  sealed  into  a  four-inch  iron  soil  pipe 
extending  down  to,  and  sealed  into  the  sewer;  complete 
by  connecting  the  pipe  from  tank  with  the  wash-pipe  of 
closet. 

The  lavatory,  or  basin,  should  be  supplied  with  an  over- 
flow bowl,  and  the  waste  and  overflow  pipe  should  be 
connected,  S  trapped,  and  let  into  the  lead  S  trap  in  the 
water-closet,  and  compression  faucet  connected  with  supply 
pipe  over  the  bowl. 

A  four-inch  ventilating  pipe  made  of  No.  26  galvanized 
iron,  must  be  connected  with  S  trap  of  water-closet,  and  ex- 
tended at  least  four  feet  above  the  roof,  terminating  with  a 
cap. 

Smaller  ventilating  tubes  should  connect  bath  and  basin 
trap  with  this  large  shaft. 

Another  ventilating  shaft,  nearly  as  large  as  the  first, 
should  be  connected  with  the  space  under  and  around  the 
water-closet,  which  is  supposed  to  be  boxed  up,  with  a  cover 
to  shut  down  on  seat,  and  carried  up  into  attic,  and  con- 
nected with  kitchen  or  other  flue. 

We  have  thus  gone  into  particulars  so  that  our  readers, 
not  acquainted  with  such  matters,  may  see  how  the  object 
desired  may  be  obtained.  The  expense  is  not  so  great  as 
might  be  supposed,  and  by  leaving  out  the  hot  water,  as  we 
have  said,  it  may  be  reduced;    a  further  reduction,  saving 


88  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

much,  might  be  made  by  omitting  the  water-closet,  but  by 
all  means  put  it  in. 

Painting. — See  House  Paintixg. 

Glazing. 

Double  thick  glass,  either  French  or  American,  is  more 
durable,  and  costs  less,  proportionately,  than  glass  of  single 
thickness. 

In  main  rooms,  at  least,  the  custom  now  is  to  make  the 
glass  large,  one  pane  to  a  sash,  and  two  to  a  window;  all 
cost  considered,  it  is  about  as  cheap  as  to  put  in  several  panes 
of  smaller  and  thinner  glass,  and  it  is  far  better  in  appear- 
ance. If  the  doors  are  to  have  cut  glass  panels,  and  it  does 
not  add  greatly  to  the  cost  to  have  them,  each  pane  must  be 
bedded  against  putty,  that  is,  putty  is  first  put  in  around 
the  shoulder  against  which  it  rests,  and  the  glass  pressed  down 
against  it  and  secured  with  glazier  points,  and  then  fastened 
with  putty;  window-glass  should  be  bedded  in  the  same 
manner. 

Hardware. 

The  front  door  should  have  a  good,  brass  face,  or  other 
style  lock  and  night  latch  combined  and  the  knobs  of  the 
door  and  door  bell  and  the  escutcheon,  should  be  of  genuine 
bronze  or  other  durable  material.  A  door  bell  adds  char- 
acter to  a  house,  and  it  is  always  a  source  of  annoyance  to 
occupants  and  visitors  to  be  compelled  to  rap,  rap,  rap,  till 
some  one  in  the  back  part  of  the  house  hears  and  attends. 
A  good  bell  should  be  at  least  four  inches  in  diameter,  many 
styles  being  for  sale  by  dealers. 

The  front  door  should  be  hung  with  three  butts,  four 


DOORS  AND  HANGINGS.  89 

and  a  half  inches  square,  of  real  bronze  or  .Berlin  bronze, 
and  if  the  door  is  double,  the  stationary  door,  or  wing,  should 
be  provided  with  good  strong  bolts  at  top  and  bottom. 
Sliding  inside  doors  are  very  convenient,  but  to  act  well, 
must  be  built  in  with  the  walls  and  must  slide  on  anti- 
friction rollers,  run  on  brass  or  other  solid  track. 

Knobs  are  made  of  a  variety  of  materials;  bronze,  por- 
celain, lava,  and  turned  wood  are  appropriate  and  durable. 
Sash  locks  are  useful,  and  should  be  placed  on  every  window; 
we  think  the  Morris  sash  lock  the  best.  Cellar  and  all 
other  doors  requiring  rough  usage,  should  be  swung  with 
wrought-iron  butts. 

Storm  Doors. 

In  many  parts  of  the  country  the  use  of  storm  doors  is 
unnecessary,  as  in  the  South,  but  in  all  of  the  Northern 
States  they  should  be  put  up  on  houses  not  provided  with 
vestibule  entrances,  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather.  They 
economize  fuel  by  preventing  direct  cold  currents  from  the 
entrance  door.  The  storm  door  can  be  made  by  any  one 
who  can  handle  tools ;  and  when  once  made,  can  be  taken 
down  and  put  up  each  winter  by  the  owner.  It  should  be 
made  in  sections,  and  these  should  be  fastened  to  facings  of 
main  door  and  to  each  other  with  hooks  and  staples.  The 
storm  door  itself  should  be  self-closing  so  that  from  neglect 
it  may  not  be  left  open. 

Our  object  in  presenting  the  foregoing  Descriptive  Speci- 
fications has  been  to  set  forth  and  explain  the  details  of  con- 
struction, so  that  any  one  not  employing  an  architect  can 
make  out  his  specifications  in  such  a  way  that  the  builder 
will  leave  out  nothing.     It  may  also  enable  those  who  have 


90 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


plans  and  specifications  made  out  by  a  builder  or  architect, 
to  examine  the  same  in  connection  with  these  pages  and  see 
if  the  quality  of  material  and  character  of  workmanship  are 
up  to  the  standard,  and  whether  any  omissions  have  been 
made. 

In  another  part  of  the  work  will  be  found  a  Form  of 
Contract  for  building.  It  has  the  sanction  of  good  builders, 
and  is  pronounced  good  by  a  legal  authority. 


QHApTRR      XI. 


HEATING  AND  VENTILATION. — OPEN  FIRE-PLACES. — GRATES 
AND  FURNACES. — STEAM  HEATING. — HOW  TO  VENTI- 
LATE.— IMPURE   AIR. — NATURE'S   DISINFECTANTS. 


-OO&lC 


1  HE  old  fire-place,  with  its  cheery  blaze  and  glow- 
ing back  log,  and  coals  that  assume  ten  thousand 
fantastic  shapes  and  pictures,  all  giving  out  an 
abundance  of  heat,  cannot  be  outdone  by  any 
inventions  of  modern  progress,  we  think,  even 
though  more  easy  methods  have  been  introduced. 
In  a  location  where  wood  is  abundant,  we  ad- 
vise house  owners*  to  have  a  good,  large,  open 
fire-place  in  the  main  living-room,  as  we  think 
this  the  nearest  approach  to  a  means  of  perfect 
ventilation,  the  warm  flue  of  the  fire-place  creat- 
ing a  strong  draft  from  near  the  floor  and  carrying  out  the 
foul  air.  Moreover,  the  influence  of  the  open  fire,  with  leap- 
ing flames  and  glowing,  crackling  coals,  draws  the  family 
around  its  magic  circle  and  brings  the  members  a  little 
nearer  each  other. 

Grates  and  Furnaces. 

The  nearest  approach  to  the  open  fire-place  is  the  grate 

[91] 


92  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

for  burning  soft  coal,  and  when  arranged  with  its  ash  pit  as 
before  described  in  this  work,  is  very  easy  to  keep  clean. 
This  method  of  heating  is  now  very  general  and  answers 
the  purpose  quite  well.  A  good  mantel  and  grate  may  be 
obtained  at  from  thirty  dollars  upward. 

Heating  furnaces,  burning  wood  or  hard  coal,  are  very 
much  used  also.  Out  of  the  many  patterns  made,  some  are 
reasonably  good,  among  which  we  would  recommend  the 
Boynton,  the  Magee,  the  Ruby,  and  the  Dome  furnaces. 
All  modern  styles  have  a  reservoir  for  holding  water,  to  be 
evaporated  into  the  hot-air  chamber,  and  thereby  moistening 
the  heated  air  and  giving  a  warmth  more  like  steam.  With 
old-style  furnaces,  the  difficulty  was  that  the  air  was  burned 
or  vitiated,  and  thus  rendered  unfit  to  breathe.  This  ob- 
stacle is  mainly  overcome  in  the  modern  furnace. 

The  furnace  should  have  a  cold-air  supply-box  or  con- 
ductor leading  from  the  outside,  and  also  a  register  in  the 
hall  with  conductor  leading  to  the  furnace.  This  will  take 
the  cold  air  from  the  rooms  when  heating  begins.  The 
supply  conductor  from  outside  should  be  ample,  and  should 
have  a  cut-off  for  regulating  the  supply  of  cold  air. 

Most  furnaces  can  be  used  without  being  covered  with 
brick ;  but  we  advise,  as  a  means  of  economizing  heat,  that 
they  be  bricked  in,  first  by  a  single  four-inch  wall,  and 
around  this,  with  an  air-space  of  ten  inches  between,  an 
eight-inch  wall.  This  arrangement  leaves  a  space  between 
the  furnace  and  first  wall,  and  the  inside  of  this  wall  should 
be  covered  with  plaster-of-Paris,  as  it  is  a  non-conductor 
of  heat. 

The  pipes  conducting  the  hot  air  should  be  of  tin  or  gal- 
vanized iron,  and  should  be  let  into  the  top  of  hot-air  cham- 


//  K.  I  TING  WITH  8TJSA  M.  93 

ber  over  the  furnace.  The  warm  conductors  leading  to  the 
rooms  of  the  first  floor,  open  into  a  register  in  the  floor,  which 
should  be  bricked  in  around,  four  inches  from  any  wood. 
The  conductors  to  upper  stories  should  be  by  means  of  tin 
flues  in  the  walls,  and  these  should  open  by  register  into 
rooms  just  above  the  base  board.  The  smoke  pipe  should  be 
connected  with  the  highest  and  largest  flue  in  the  house. 

,  Steam  as  a  means  of  heating  dwellings  is  comparatively 
new  and  not  very  generally  used  yet  outside  of  large  cities. 
In  Detroit,  and  two  or  three  other  large  cities,  there  is  a 
section  of  the  city,  covering  an  area  of  nearly  one  square 
mile,  successfully  supplied  with  steam,  by  a  Steam  Supply 
Company,  from  a  battery  of  boilers  all  located  in  one  build- 
ing, the  steam  being  carried  in  pipes  laid  under  the  pave- 
ment. This  method  has  been  tested  sufficiently  to 
demonstrate  its  superiority  over  all  others  as  a  means  of 
heating  large  buildings  with  many  rooms.  The  ease  with 
which  steam  finds  its  way  through  pipes  to  the  remotest 
part  of  a  building,  without  any  sensible  loss  of  heat,  gives 
it  a  great  advantage  over  furnace  heating. 

The  method  is  healthful,  and  with  the  present  precautions 
and  use  of  low  pressure  boilers,  no  serious  accident  can 
attend  its  use.  The  radiator  pipes  or  drums  for  each  room 
are  made  in  an  endless  variety  of  designs,  painted,  gilded, 
and  varnished;  and  while  the  cost  of  putting  in  a  boiler  and 
pipes  is  greater,  the  saving  of  fuel  and  safety  from  fire  will 
soon  repay  the  additional  expense. 

One  hint  may  be  profitably  added  here,  to  those  who  are 
not  accustomed  to  steam;  every  radiator  must  have,  of 
course,  a  place  for  the  admission  of  steam,  and  this  is  always 
supplied  with  a  valve  to  turn  off  the  steam  and  turn  it  on 


94  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

as  occasion  requires,  and  every  radiator  must  have  a  small 
air  exhaust,  at  the  opposite  side  or  end  from  the  valve.  It 
is  sometimes  omitted  by  the  workman,  but  must  be  put  in 
or  the  register  will  not  work.  When  the  steam  is  turned  on, 
open  this  air  exhaust  until  the  steam  drives  out  all  the  air, 
and  when  the  steam  is  turned  off,  open  exhaust  to  let  air  in. 

Ventilation. 

The  importance  of  pure  air  in  our  dwellings  cannot  be 
overestimated;  inventions  without  number  have  been  made 
and  offered  the  public,  and  treatises  without  end  have  been 
written,  each  of  which,  if  we  should  credit  the  inventor  or 
author,  afforded  a  perfect  and  the  only  possible  means  of 
escape  from  death  by  foul  air.  One  after  another  they  have 
been  tried,  and  their  adoption  has  resulted  in  failure  and 
elisappointment  in  too  many  cases,  and  yet  many  seem 
to  be  looking  for  some  patent  self-regulating  process  or 
device,  which,  without  knowledge,  attention,  or  thought, 
.shall  ventilate  a  dwelling. 

The  expectation  must  always  meet  with  disappointment, 
but  with  our  present  knowledge,  and  without  waiting  for 
any  new  facts  or  inventions,  we  can  apply  our  common 
sense  anel  thereby  devise  plans  to  secure  ah-  reasonably  pure 
in  our  rooms. 

The  principal  impurity  in  the  air  in  our  rooms,  is 
carbonic  acid  which  is  produced  in  the  act  of  breathing,  hence 
it  is  being  constantly  thrown  off,  and  if  not  removed  from 
the  room  it  will  soon  vitiate  all  the  air  within. 

In  a  nearly  pure  state  carbonic  acid  is  heavier  than 
air,  and  where  the  air  is  of  an  even  temperature,  it  will 
occupy  the  lower  part  of  the  room  near  the  floor.  Owing 
to  the  fact,  however,  that  in  most  cases  the  air  is  warmer  in 


VENTILATION. 


95 


some  parts  of  the  room  than  in  others,  it  is  not  at  all 
improbable  that  the  carbonic  acid  diffuses  itself  throughout 
the  room. 

The  problem  then  is  to  remove  this  vitiated  air,  and 
supply  its  place  with  pure  air,  by  not  subjecting  the  occu- 
pants to  cold  draughts.  To  secure  this  end,  ample  means 
of  entrance  and  escape  of  air  must  be  made. 


v*  L  \J\m 


t  ;j 


v 


r  ■   :    * 


Fig.  i. 


Tlie  best  means  which  can  be  provided,  is  the  open  fire 
or  grate  for  escape,  as  currents  setting  up  the  flue  will 
change  the  air  very  quickly  if  means  of  entrance  are 
provided  by  an  open  transom,  a  window  lowered  at  the 
top,  or  other  means. 

Our  illustration  shows  an  easy,  cheap  method  of  ventila- 


96 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


tion  adapted  to  any  building.  Fasten  a  neat  piece  of  wood 
from  3  to  5  inches  wide  inside  the  bottom  sash,  fitting 
it  tightly  at  ends  and  bottom,  and  leave  it  far  enough  away 
so  that  the  sash  will  move  up  and  down  with  ease,  and  if 
there  is  half  an  inch  between,  it  will  only  act  the  better. 

When  the  lower  sash  is  raised,  the  air  rushes  into  the 
room  between  the  piece  of  wood  set  in  and  the  sash,  and 
also  at  middle  between  the  two  sash,  as  shown  by  the 
arrows  pointing  upward.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  piece  set 
in  prevents  the  air  from  coming  in  and  striking  the 
occupants  as  a  direct  draught,  as  when  the  air  strikes  the 
board,  it  deflects  it  upward.  A  weather  strip  could  be 
fastened  to  the  bottom  of  sash  between  piece  set  in,  and  thus 
admit  air  only  between  the  two  sash  at  middle  of  window. 
If  it  is  desired  to  establish  an  outward  current,  the  top  sash 
may  be  lowered,  when  the  air  will  pass  out  as  indicated  by 
the  four  arrows. 

The  "  revolving  ventilator  "  which  is  sold  at  the  hard- 
ware stores,  is  recommended  by  many.  It  is  inserted  in  a 
circular  hole  cut  in  the  glass  near  top  of  window. 

Plenty  of  air  should  be  admitted  into  the  bed-room, — no 
danger  of  "  colds  "  when  abundance  of  pure  air  and  clean 
bed-covers  are  at  hand.  Children's  rooms  should  especially 
be  looked  after  in  this  respect,  as  we  owe  it  to  them  to  give 
abundant  supplies  of  nature's  own  disinfectants, — pure  air 
and  water. 

Rooms  that  have  their  doors  opened  and  closed  frequently, 
as  in  the  living-rooms,  need  but  little  attention  in  ventila- 
tion. In  the  morning  the  windows  and  doors  of  bed-rooms 
should  be  thrown  open  and  allowed  to  remain  so  for  some 
time,  to  permit  the  pure  air  to  thoroughly  search  every 
nook  and  corner,  and  drive  out  impurities. 


CxFmi°TRre     XII. 


SITUATION  AND  SURROUNDINGS. — SELECTING  A  HEALTHY 
SITE. — HOW  TO  SECURE  GOOD  DRAINAGE. — PURE  WA- 
TER.— DANGER  FROM  STAGNANT  POOLS. — HOW  A  HOUSE 
SHOULD  FRONT.  —  SUNSHINE.  —  ITS  VALUE.  —  SHADE 
TREES. 


^x>>Kc 


THER  things  being  equal,  high  ground  is  always 
preferable  for  a  building  site;  but  many  things 
must  be  taken  into  consideration  in  the  location. 
Old  wTater-courses,  low,  swampy  grounds,  and 
dense  forests  should  be  avoided,  as  they  are 
fruitful  sources  of  disease.  It  is  not  pleasant  to 
locate  near  a  manufacturing  concern,  where  the 
din  of  resounding  machinery  fills  the  air  with 
discordant  sounds,  and  where  clouds  of  smoke 
settle  down  at  the  most  inopportune  moments. 
It  is  not  best  in  cities  to  locate  where  a  good 

sewer  is  not  accessible,   for  in  time  the  difficulty  in  drainage 

will  become  very  annoying. 

In  the  country  there  is  not  so  much  difficulty  in  securing 

a  desirable  location.     The  first  consideration  should  be  good 

drainage,  and  the  soil  and  subsoil  must  be  carefully  exam- 

[97] 


I 


98  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

ined  to  this  end.  If  the  soil  is  gravelly  or  porous,  and 
the  subsoil  a  hard  clay,  impervious  to  water,  the  site  is  not 
a  good  one,  for  the  surface  water  will  simply  settle  down  to 
the  clay  and  remain  there,  making  the  ground  damp  and 
unhealthful.  This  may,  however,  be  remedied  to  a  great 
extent  by  putting  in  tile  drains,  but  it  is  best  to  find  a  good 
porous  or  gravelly  subsoil. 

Where  a  good  system  of  sewerage  is  maintained,  the 
drainage  is  of  no  consequence,  as  it  is  easy  to  secure  almost 
perfect  immunity  from  damp  premises. 

The  next  consideration  is  a  good  and  ample  supply  of 
drinking  water,  and  water  for  all  domestic  purposes;  this  is 
of  vital  importance.  It  is  far  better  to  be  at  some  expense 
in  bringing  it  from  a  distant  spring  or  a  running  stream  by 
means  of  pipes,  than  to  run  any  risk  by  the  use  of  contam- 
inated water.  Many  fine  sites,  in  other  respects  very 
desirable,  are  not  deemed  practical  by  reason  of  their  loca- 
tion on  high  ground  away  from  water,  but  this  difficulty 
can  usually  be  overcome  if  there  is  water  within  a  reason- 
able distance  in  a  valley  below,  by  means  of  a  Hydraulic 
Ram. 

A  well  should  not  be  located  near  any  building  unless 
there  is  a  perfect  system  of  drainage  for  carrying  off  the 
.surface  water;  neither  is  it  safe  to  locate  a  well  too  near  a 
drain,  as  the  incline  of  the  surface  or  strata  of  subsoil  may 
allow  the  sewage  to  filter  through  into '  the  well  and  con- 
taminate the  water. 

In  many  parts  of  the  country,  where  the  lower  strata  is 
gravel,  and  where  the  water  is  only  a  few  feet  down,  drive 
wells  are  put  in  by  driving  into  the  earth  an  iron  pipe  one 
and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  upon  the  end  of  which  is 


DRAINAGE  AND  EXPOSURE. "  99 

firmly  screwed  a  sharp,  steel-pointed  head,  the  pipe  for  a 
few  inches  above  the  steel-pointed  head  having  small  holes 
for  the  admission  of  water.  Water  from  this  kind  of  wells 
is  usually  pure,  and  no  water  from  the  surface  can  get  in 
to  contaminate.  Any  system  of  drainage  depends  largely 
upon  a  good  supply  of  water  for  its  effectiveness,  and  with- 
out good  drainage  the  best  location  will  soon  become 
unhealthy. 

A  quick-running  stream,  if  not  subject  to  annoying  or 
dangerous  overflows,  is  to  be  desired  as  an  adjunct  to  a  good 
site,  as  it  can  be  made  the  means  of  carrying  off  accumula- 
tions of  filth;  but  a  sluggish  stream,  or  standing  water, 
should  be  avoided,  as  danger  lurks  on  their  banks ;  nor  are 
pools  that  are  made  for  ornament  to  be  trusted. 

Lakes,  if  fed  by  rivulets  or  unseen  springs  at  the  bottom, 
so  that  the  water  will  not  stagnate,  may  be  most  delightful 
and  reasonably  healthful  as  adjuncts  to  building  sites. 

Exposure  of  a  House. 

.  The  exposure  of  a  house,  or  the  direction  it  fronts,  and 
the  relative  location  of  its  principal  rooms,  has  much  to  do 
with  the  comfort  of  its  inmates. 

The  greatest  consideration  is  the  admission  of  sunshine 
into  every  room,  if  possible,  sometime  during  the  day.  In 
cities  and  towns  where  the  streets  run  with  the  cardinal  points 
of  the  compass,  a  northwest  corner,  the  house  fronting  south, 
is  the  best  location,  next  to  which  the  west  side  of  a  street  is 
preferable,  as  the  principal  rooms  may  then  be  located  on 
the  east  and  south  exposures ;  and  if  some  room  must  be 
located  so  that  sunlight  cannot  enter,  let  it  be  the  dinning- 
room,  for  while  we  want  it  as  pleasant  as  possible,  we  live 


100  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

in  it  less  time  than  any  other.     The  kitchen  also  may  be 
located  on  the  cold  side,  as  may  the  staircase  and  hall. 

If  the  house  should  stand  on  the  west  side  of  street,  on 
an  inside  lot,  the  principal  rooms  should  be  on  the  south 
side,  if  the  house  is  on  the  east  side,  the  exposure  of  the 
principal  rooms  should  be  on  the  south  and  west,  and  for 
sunshine  this  is  really  a  better  location  than  the  foregoing, 
but  it  has  the  disadvantage  of  being  exposed  to  the  intense 
heat  of  the  afternoon  sun,  which  can  in  a  measure  be  over- 
come by  shade-trees  placed  not  too  close  to  the  house. 

If  the  house  is  built  on  the  north  side  of  the  street,  the 
house  fronts  south  of  course,  and  the  principal  rooms  should 
open  to  the  east,  allowing  the  morning  sun  to  pour  its  full 
rays  into  the  rooms,  just  at  the  time  of  day  when  sunshine 
is  enjoyable;  and  as  the  day  passes  the  sun  will  sweep 
around  and  give  the  whole  front  and  west  side  a  bath,  leav- 
ing the  east  rooms  cool  and  shady  in  the  afternoon.  There 
are  some  disadvantages  in  locating  a  residence  on  the  south 
side  of  a  street,  for  the  winds  of  winter  have  full  play  upon 
the  parts  where  the  principal  rooms  must  be  located ;  and 
yet  this  can  be  overcome  by  the  use  of  double  windows,  and 
by  building  a  vestibule  entrance,  or  a  storm  door.  While 
such  houses  may  possibly  be  colder  in  winter  they  are  more 
pleasant  in  summer. 

All  houses  should  have  verandas  on  the  sides  exposed  to 
the  sun,  if  possible,  and  sleeping  rooms  so  exposed,  may  be 
rendered  cooler  by  keeping  out  the  hot  rays  by  means  of 
awnings. 

In  the  country,  no  obstacles  are  usually  in  the  way  to 
securing  the  best  possible  location  for  sunlight. 

The  best  frontings  are  either  south  or  east,  and  if  the 


LOCATING  AND  BEAUTIFYING. 


101 


house  should  be  set  in  some  other  way  than  with  the 
cardinal  points,  there  is  no  law  by  which  the  owner  can  be 
compelled  to  turn  it  around. 

The  rooms  must  be  so  located  as  to  secure  the  sunlight 
to  the  best  advantage,  the  style  of  the  building  and  location 
of  trees  having,  of  course,  much  to  do  in  determining  what 
is  best  to  do. 

There  is  nothing,  perhaps,  that  enhances  the  beauty  of 
houses  more  than  trees  and  shrubbery  when  there  is  room 
for  them.  Trees  should  not  stand  too  near  houses,  nor 
should  then  branches  ever  overhang,  as  they  not  only 
damage  the  work  and  mar  the  beauty  of  outline,  but  they 
also  cause  a  dampness  to  settle  around  and  into  the  house, 
rendering  it  unhealthful.  We  think  much  of  shade-trees, 
out  would  keep  them  at  a  respectful  distance  from  the 
house;  near  enough  to  break  the  force  of  winter's  winds, 
and  shelter  from  summer's  sun. 


CxFLMTRR     Xllf. 


THE  PRIMITIVE  HOUSE. — OUR  NOBLE  ANCESTORS. — MODERN 
RESIDENCES. — HOW  TO  BUILD  A  HOUSE  AND  MAKE  AD- 
DITIONS   TO   IT. — A   SIMPLE   COTTAGE. 


-x>XKc 


ANY  of  our  readers  are  no  doubt  familiar  with 
the  old-fashioned  house  built  by  our  forefathers 
— the  log  cabin.  Our  engraver  has  succeeded 
very  well  in  producing  a  good  illustration,  one 
with  its  primitive  surroundings.  Who  shall  say 
that  its  walls  of  rough  logs,  and  its  roof  made  of 
rough  puncheons  held  in  place  by  poles,  did  not 
shelter  the  best  blood  of  our  nation?  And  who 
shall  fail  to  revere  the  memory  of  those  who 
toiled  in  and  reclaimed  the  wilderness  from  its 
wildness,  endured  privations,  poverty,  and  mis- 
fortune, triumphed  over  obstacles  almost  insurmountable, 
and  made  it  possible  for  us  to  possess  Our  Homes  and  Their 
Adornments  ? 

No  architect  had  they  to  plan  parlor,  library,  and 
conservatory,  no  mills  had  they  to  cut,  plane,  match,  and 
fashion  the  lumber;  but  with  ax  and  rude  saw  they  hewed 
from  the  tree  each  piece,  patiently  but  perseveringly  until 

[102] 


OUR  ANCESTORS. 


103 


the  house  was  finished, — not  in  soft  wood  or  hard,  wood,  not 
in  molded  base  or  graceful  architrave,  but  finished  for  such 
comforts  as  they  needed. 

And  the  Mothers — all  glory  to  their  memory! — their 
fingers  were  busy  in  interior  decoration — not  in  making 
applique  work,  not  in  painting  plaques  and  panels,  but  in 
providing  such  comforts  as  could  be  obtained.     They  took 


Fig.  2. 

as  much  pleasure  and  exhibited  as  much  pride  in  their 
graceful  festoons  of  red-pepper  pods  and  dried  pumpkins,  as 
does  the  modern  woman  in  her  richly  ornamented  purtn:r< 
or  lambrequin. 

Comfort  never  waited  to  be  invited  into  such  a  house; 
she  entered  and  took  up  her  abode  there.  Little  use  for 
ventilating  apparatus — the  high  piled  open  fire-place,  roar- 


104     '    OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

ing  and  crackling,  asserted  its  ability  to  assume  all  care  of 
the  frequent  change  of  air  in  the  room,  and  as  for  inlets  for 
an,  there  were  plenty  of  them. 

The  plans  and  specifications  of  such  a  house  would 
probably  call  for  "solid  walls  of  native  timber  carefully 
srrooved  and  fitted  at  each  corner  so  that  no  crack  between 
timbers  should 'exceed  six  inches;  the  walls  at  the  ends 
carried  up  so  as  to  give  the  roof  the  proper  pitch ;  the  rafters 
to  be  of  poles,  laid  from  end  to  end ;  the  roof  to  be  of  slabs, 
lapped  and  the  joints  broken;  the  whole  to  be  held  in  place 
by  good  solid  poles,  well  '  scotched '  and  tied  down  at  the 
ends ;  the  floor  to  be  made  of  well-smoothed  slabs,  laid  close 
and  in  a  workman-like  manner;  the  walls  to  be  plastered 
with  good,  tough  red  clay,  carefully  put  on  with  the  hands ; 
the  whole  building  to  be  completed  and  ready  for  occupancy 
before  the  approach  of  cold  weather." 

Each  man  was  his  own  architect,  contractor,  builder,  and 
finisher;  yet  the  old  log-house  did  not  long  content  its 
occupants,  for  after  the  "  clearin'  "  was  made  and  the  fields 
well  under  cultivation,  the  hewed  log-house  was  built,  and 
perhaps  after  a  few  years  a  double  hewed  log-house  was  put 
up,  with  well-fitted  logs,  and  cracks  filled,  not  with  red  clay, 
but  pure  white,  lime,  burned  from  stone  taken  from  the 
quarry  on  the  premises. 

Thus  the  desire  for  better  houses,  and  the  ability  to 
possess  them  has  grown,  till  by  genius,  industry,  and 
frugality,  any  family  may  possess  their  own  home  and 
adorn  it  in  a  manner  suited  to  their  taste  and  means.  To 
all  such,  the  several  departments  of  this  work  are  worth 
perusal. 


PRAIRIE  HOUSE. 


105 


DESIGN  I.— A  PRAIRIE  HOUSE. 

In  the  accompanying  engravings  we  have,  perhaps, 
given  a  plan  that  may  seem  advisable  for  some  of  our 
prairie  readers  to  follow. 

There  is  hardly  any  one  settling  on  the  prairies  who  could 
not  produce  lumber  sufficient  to  build  a  small  "shanty,"  but 
is  deterred  from  doing  so,  for,  he  says,  "I  will  be  able  in  a 
few  years " — remember,  the  corn-growing  and  pork -pro- 
ducing farmer  of  the  West  accumulates  fast  when  once 
started — "  to  build  me  a  good,  respectable  house,  and  I  Wte 


Fig-  3- 


to  waste  material  upon  something  that  will  be  nearly 
useless  then."  It  is  to  help  this  class  of  builders  that  our 
designs  are  intended. 

Fig.  3  represents  a  simple  cottage  of  only  one  room, 
which  can  be  erected  at  a  very  trifling  expense,  even  on  the 
prairies  where  lumber  is  high  and  scarce,  and  must  be 
hauled  a  long  distance.  It  is  12x14  feet,  and  7  feet 
between  joists,  it  will  take  material  as  follows:    800  feet  of 


106 


QUE  HOMES  AND  THEIE  ADOENMENTS. 


inch  boards  @  S30  per  thousand,  $24;  4  sills,  6x9,  and  4 
beams,  6x6,  10  rafters,  and  12  joists,  $6;  2  panel  doors 
@$2.50  each,  and  3  windows  @  $1.50  each,  $9.50;  nails 
and  paper  for  roofing,  $10..    Total,  $49.50. 

Here  is  a  cost  of  about  fifty  dollars;  and  any  man  of 
ordinary  ingenuity  can  do  all  the  work  himself,  with  the 
aid  of  a  carpenter  to  case  the  windows,  and  case  and  hang 
the  doors.  Let  him  first  frame  the  sills  and  lay  them  upon 
the  foundation  in  proper  position ;  next  frame  the  beams  and 


Fig.  4. 


lay  them   upon   the   sills;    then  securely  nail  two  boards 
perpendicularly  at  each  corner  of  the  sills. 

Use  sixteen-foot  boards,  cut  in  the  middle ;  this  will 
make  the  building  seven  feet  in  the  clear.  Now  cut  four 
stanchions  seven  feet  long;  and  with  the  aid  of  one  person 
you  can  raise  the  beams  one  end  at  a  time,  slip  under  the 
stanchions,  and  nail  the  tops  of  the  boards  that  had  been 
previously  nailed  to  the  sills,  securely  to  the  beams,  and  you 


ADDITION  TO  PRAIRIE  HOUSE. 


10; 


are  ready  to  proceed  with  the  planking,  which  any  one  can 
do  who  can  saw  off  a  board  and  drive  a  nail. 

For  roofing,  use  saturated  tar  paper,  which  is  manu- 
factured expressly  for  it,  and  is  for  sale  in  all  Western  towns. 
The  cost  is  about  one-fourth  that  of  shingles;  it  is  not  as 
good,  but  will  last  several  years,  when  you  can  lay  your 
shingles  right  over  it. 

If  you  build  in  the  spring  or  early  summer,  you  can 
omit  the  clapboards  until  the  fall;  but  don't  omit  the 
veranda. 


o- 


We  are  like  an  architectural  gentleman  who  once  went 
into  ecstacies  over  blinds.  We  have  nothing  rebutting  to 
show;  it  is  a  blind  subject;  but  we  think  the  crowning  glory 
of  any  house,  large  or  small,  is  a  veranda,  or  as  the  girl  called 
it,  "our  folks's  stoop."     So  much  for  Fig.  3. 

Now  we  will  suppose  our  humble  farmer,  at  the  end  of 
one  or  two  years,  has  acquired  means  to  enlarge  his  humble 


108 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


domicile.  This  he  can  do,  as  shown  in  plan,  Fig.  5,  which 
consists  of  his  first  erection  with  a  lean-to  of  one  bed-room, 
a  pantry,  and  a  wood-shed.  This  can  be  erected  upon  the 
same  principle  as  the  first.  The  reason  we  recommended 
planking  and  clapboards  in  preference  to  studs  and  clap- 
boarding,  is  that  any  one  can  build  with  planks ;  but  it  will 
require  a  professional  carpenter  to  build  a  studded  house. 

Fig.  5  will  make  a  very  convenient  house  for  a  small 
family.     The  inside  can  be  finished  with  paper  or  plaster,  to 


Fig.  6. 


suit  the  taste  of  the  occupants.  Again  we  will  suppose  that 
"the  lapse  of  years  has  brought  round  the  time"  when  our 
friend  wishes  to  again  enlarge  his  house. 

If  he  has  followed  our  former  plans,  he  will  do  so,  as 
shown  in  Figs.  6  and  7.  This  consists  of  an  upright  part 
added  to  his  former  erections.  He  now,  of  course,  has 
means  sufficient  at  his  command,  and  will  call  in  the  aid  of 
a  practical  architect.  He  can  build  this  last  part  two  stories 
high  if  he  wishes,  but  we  would  advise  a  low  house  in  a 


ADDITION  TO  PRAIRIE  HOUSE. 


109 


prairie  country.     We  think  this  will  make  a  very  convenient 
house,  not  devoid  of  beauty. 

Plan,  Fig.  3,  is  a  room  12x14;  V,  veranda. 


op 


Plan,  Fig.  5,  K,  living  room,  12x14;  B,  bed-room,  8x9; 
P,  pantry,  8x8;  W,  S,  wood-shed;   V,  veranda. 


110 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Plan,  Fig.  6,  L,  living-room,  12x13;  K,  kitchen,  12 
xl4;  D,  dining-room,  9^x12;  B,  B,  B,  bed- rooms,  9x8,  and 
8x8;  S,  P,  summer  pantry,  8x8;  P,  pantiy,  8x8;  W, 
wood-shed;  V,  V,  veranda. 

The  summer  pantry  can  be  used  in  winter  for  a  place  to 
keep  meat,  and  as  a  store-room.  Being  away  from  the 
kitchen  fire,  it  will  keep  meat  fresh  a  long  time  in  suitable 
weather. 

The  cost  of  the  last  design  (the  third  addition)  will  not 
exceed  $1,500,  and  could  probably  be  built  for  less  if  one 
would  do  as  much  of  the  work  as  possible  himself. 


Ghaptrr   XIV. 


AN  ATTRACTIVE  COTTAGE  HOME  FOR  PEOPLE  WITH  SMALL 
MEANS. —  HOW  CONSTRUCTED.  —  THE  COST.  —  HOW  TO 
PAINT    IT. 

^-DESIGN    II,* 


'E  give  in  Figs.  8  and  9  illustrations  of  the 
arrangement  of  the  rooms  on  first  floor,  and 
perspective  view  of  front  and  principal  side  of 
an  attractive  little  cottage,  neat  and  well  pro- 
portioned, simple  in  design,  and  easy  of  con- 
struction, there  being  but  little  ornamental  work 
used,  as  shown  in  the  elevation.  A  course  of 
sawed  panels  across  the  front,  set  in  square 
frame-work,  and  the  projection  of  the  second 
story  over  bay,  with  its  two  large  brackets  on 
either  side,  give  a  fine  outline  to  the  front,  with 
the  relief  of  cut  slat  patterns  under  projection  and  over  the 
windows  in  front  gable ;  and  this,  together  with  the  simple 
cut  figures  in  the  entrance  porch,  is  all  the  real  ornamental 
work  on  the  house-  The  fact  is  that  the  exterior  effect 
in  the  cottage  depends  more  upon  the  outlines  of  corners, 
projections,  and  angles  of  roof,  than  upon  anything  else,  and 

is  an  example  of  what  can  be  done  without  much  ornamen- 

[111] 


\\-2 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS- 


tation  and  still  claim  merit  from  its  attractiveness.  The 
roof  should  be  shingled  and  painted  a  dark  red,  while  the 
body  of  the  house  should  be  painted  an  olive  green,  and  the 
trimmings,  that  is,  cornices,  corners,  porch  and  bay-window, 
a  dark  chocolate,  with  corners,  or  chamfers,  where  there  ar<* 


1-     w 


UfcCE 


tO  u  — 


aotc 


Kl  TCHEN 
12,0  X  12.0 


COAL 


o=>u» 


PANTRY 


b 


PORCH 


LIVING      ROOM 
10  .6     X    14-.  0 


Fig-  8. 


any,  in  vermilion.  The  effect,  if  the  house  is  standing 
alone,  with  trees  and  shrubbery  around,  will  be  pleasing. 
So  much  for  the  exterior. 

Fig.   8  shows  how  the  rooms  are  placed  on  first  floor, 
the  porch  opening  into  a  lobby  and  from  this  either  into 


DESIGN  OF  COTTAGE. 


113 


living-room  or  kitchen.  We  would  suggest  that  it  would 
be  a  good  plan  to  have  a  small  room  in  the  rear  for  cooking 
in  summer,  which  could  be  added  at  small  expense. 


Fig.  9. 


The  small  room  marked  "  coal  "  could,  if  thought  advis- 
able, be  opened  into  the  kitchen  and  used  for  a  store-room. 
A  pantry  of  ample  size  will  be  found  convenient,  having 
shelves  on  three  sides,  and  also  a  good  closet  off'  from  living- 


114  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

room,  and  one  under  stairs,  unless  there  is  a  cellar  under  the 
house,  in  which  case  the  stairs  to  the  same  would  have  to  be 
placed  under  the  staircase  leading  to  the  second  floor. 

On  the  second  floor  there  are  two  good  sleeping-rooms, 
there  being  a  small  hall  at  head  of  stairs  extending  along 
side  of  stair- way  to  front  room,  and  doors  opening  into  this 
and  the  rear  bed-room  immediately  back  of  it.  Two  closets 
are  between  the  rooms,  one  for  each.  The  rear  chamber  is 
lighted  with  two  windows,  coming  up  into  the  roof,  one  on 
the  side  and  the  other  in  the  rear. 

This  completes  the  number  of  rooms,  and  we  have  four 
good-sized  rooms  and  plenty  of  closets.  This  we  think  an 
excellent  plan  for  a  small  family  of  little  means,  who  are 
desirous,  if  they  cannot  have  so  large  a  house,  to  have  one 
that  possesses  some  degree  of  taste  and  refinement  at  least; 
and  there  is  no  reason  why  the  cottage  homes  of  our  people 
should  not  be  made  more  attractive  when  it  can  be  done  by 
so  little  well-directed  skill  in  planning  and  executing;  for 
many  times  the  cottage,  with  its  simple  adornment,  is  the 
abode  of  more  genuine  happiness  than  ever  passed  the  thresh- 
olds of  some  who  live  in  palatial  homes,  and  are  surrounded 
with  all  the  luxury  that  money  will  buy. 

This  design  would  make  a  very  good  summer  cottage, 
if  desired,  in  which  case  it  would  not  necessarily  need  to  be 
plastered.  At  present  prices,  this  house  can  be  built  here, 
all  complete,  for  six  hundred  dollars. 


QHAPTRR     XV. 


A  NEAT,  SYMMETRICAL  STORY-AND-A-HALF  HOUSE  AT  MOD- 
ERATE COST. — DESCRIPTION  OF  ITS  ARRANGEMENT. — ■ 
ITS  ADVANTAGES  OVER  A  ONE-STORY  HOUSE. — SOME 
NOVEL   FEATURES. 


DESIGN   III. 


|  E  present  in  Figs.  10  and  11,  first  and  second  floor 
plans,  with  front  elevation  shown  in  Fig.  12,  of 
a  story-and-a-half  cottage.  Two  of  these  have 
recently  been  completed  for  the  author,  for  rent- 
ing purposes,  and  he  considers  this  design  the 
nearest  approach  to  an  ideal  neat,  cosey,  tasty 
cottage  home  that  he  has  ever  made,  for  the 
amount  they  cost. 

The  house  consists,  as  will  be  seen  by  refer- 
ring to  first-floor  plan,  Fig.  10,  of  portico  L, 
vestibule  K,  5x5  ft.,  and  opening  into  parlor  A, 
12x14  ft.,  and  also  to  sitting  or  main  living  room  B,  12x14 
ft.,  which  is  connected  with  the  parlor  by  a  sliding  door  four 
feet  wide.  Off  the  sitting-room  is  a  bed-room  D,  8x10  ft., 
and  a  clothing  closet  G,  under  the  stairs,  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  same. 

From  the  sitting-room,  door  I  opens  to  an  easy  stair- way 

[115] 


116 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


leading  to  second  floor,  and  the  door  in  rear  opens  into  the 
kitchen  C,  13x14  ft.,  large  enough  to  use  for  dining  pur- 
poses when  desired.  In  one  corner  of  the  kitchen  is  an  iron 
sink  with  good  drip-board  at  one  end  and  a  cupboard  under 
the  sink.  The  chimney  shown  in  kitchen  is  for  the  use  of 
both  rooms,  between  which  it  is  located.  The  kitchen  stove 
can  .stand  well  up  in  the  corner  and  leave  plenty  of  room 
for  tables,  etc. 


Fig.  10. 


F  is  a  pantry,  4x7  ft.,  of  ample  size,  with  one  broad 
shelf,  under  which  is  a  space  inclosed  with  a  door  for  a 
barrel  of  flour,  and  a  small  door  or  ^op  of  shelf  opening  into 
barrel.  Also  on  the  side  of  this  door  a  tier  of  three  drawers, 
and  plenty  of  open  shelves  and  cleats,  all  around  the  three 
sides.  Door  H  opens  to  a  stair-way  leading  down  to  a  neat 
little  cellar,  12x14  ft.,  the  walls  of  which  are  made  of  brick 


ST  OR  Y-AND-A-IIA  LF  110  USE. 


117 


laid  open,  thereby  effectually  keeping  out  dampness  and 
frost.  The  floor  is  concreted,  and  a  tile  drain  connected 
with  sewer  laid  inside  of  the  walls.  The  door  from  the 
kitchen  in  the  rear  opens  out  to  a  platform  with  steps  lead- 
ing down  each  way,  one  to  the  walk  around  to  the  front, 
and  the  other  to  water-closet  J,  which  is  connected  directly 
with  the  sewer. 


Fit 


On  the  second  floor  we  have,  you  will  observe  by  refer- 
ring to  Fig.  11,  ample  hall  room  N,  with  window.  The  two 
rooms  marked,  D,  D,  are  sleeping-rooms,  12x14,  and  from  the 
hall  is  one  large  closet  for  both  rooms.  M  is  an  unfinished 
attic  over  kitchen,  with  door  from  the  large  closet,  and  is 
used  only  for  storing  trunks  or  things  not  frequently  wanted. 

The  compactness  of  the  house  makes  it  easy  of  access  to 
the  different  rooms  and  easy  to  warm ;  indeed,  one  medium- 


118  0*712  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS 

size  base  burner,  set  in  the  living-room,  will  warm  the  whole 
house,  except  the  kitchen.  In  the  ceiling,  immediately  over 
the  stove,  we  have  a  register  opening  into  the  room  above, 
and  one  in  front  room  to  the  chamber  over  it;  these  regis- 
ters can  be  closed  during  the  day,  and  in  the  evening  by 
opening  them  and  running  the  fire  a  little  more  briskly,  the 
sleeping-rooms  can  easily  be  made  warm  enough. 

The  objection  is  sometimes  made  that  the  sleeping- rooms 
in  a  story-and-a-half  house  are  too  warm  in  summer ;  such, 
however,  is  not  the  case  if  the  windows  in  these  rooms  are 
arranged  in  the  manner  shown  in  Fig.  11,  or  in  a  similar 
manner,  with  not  less  than  two  in  a  room  and  always  on 
two  sides.  If  one  window  can  face  the  south  or  west,  so 
much  the  better,  as  a  good  ventilation  can  be  had  at  all 
times. 

The  side  walls  are  sixteen  feet  and  six  inches  high  from  top 
of  sill  to  top  of  plate ;  the  first  story  is  nine  feet  and  six  inches 
between  the  floor  joists,  leaving  the  outside  wall  of  second 
floor  six  feet  and  four  inches  from  floor  to  where  the  angle 
of  roof  rests  on  the  plates,  and  in  the  center  the  rooms  are 
nine  feet  high.  The  rear  or  kitchen  part  is  twelve-foot 
studding,  thus  leaving  ample  room  in  the  attic  for  storing 
purposes.  We  think  the  exterior  presents  nice  and  graceful 
proportions. 

The  design  depends  for  effect  as  much  on  the  outline 
and  painting  as  upon  anything  else.  Across  the  front  and 
sides  is  a  water-table;  and  from  this  up  to  the  window-sills, 
the  wall  is  sheathed  with  matched  sheathing,  and  the  sill 
course  extended  around  over  this  and  cut  into  panels  with 
cross-bars  in  the  manner  shown  in  the  elevation.  The 
window-casings  connect  with  a  band  or  belt  course  at  the 


STORY-  AN DA-HALF  HOUSE.  [  ]  9 

caps,  while  the  double  window  in  the  second  story  is  con- 
nected on  each  side  with  the  caps  of  the  two  windows  below, 
by  a  piece  cut  in  a  symmetrical  form;  and  in  between  these 
the  panel  is  covered  with  shingles  cut  in  a  neat  pattern. 


Fig   12. 


120  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

The  gable  is  divided  by  a  band  and  shingled  in  the  same 
manner,  as  is  also  the  end  of  veranda. 

On  the  top  of  the  roof,  over  each  gable,  is  placed  a 
neat  finial  of  wood,  and  the  gables  are  finished  with  a 
verge-board  of  unique  design,  placed  immediately  back  of 
the  facia.  This  gives  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  The 
front  door  has  glass  in  top  panel  to  light  the  vestibule. 
Steps  with  rail  and  posts  on  each  side  lead  up  to  the 
veranda. 

We  have  painted  the  house  in  the  following  manner: 
The  body,  or  parts  of  the  house  clapboarded,  and  the  panels 
under  sill  course,  are  an  olive-green  ;  all  trimmings, 
including  cornices,  window-frames,  bands,  veranda,  and 
cross-pieces  in  panels,  are  a  dark  chocolate;  the  cut  shingles 
in  gable  and  veranda  are  a  bright  red;  while  all  the  trim-, 
mino-s  of  chocolate  color  have  chamfers  cut  in  with 
vermilion,  the  sash  also  being  vermilion.  The  effect  and 
harmony  of  these  colors  are  very  pleasing. 

We  wish  to  say  a  few  words,  comparing  this  six-room, 
story-and-a-half  house,  costing,  in  Detroit,  thirteen  hundred 
dollars,  with  a  one-story  cottage  containing  the  same 
number  of  rooms,  all  on  the  first  floor,  and  costing  the  same 
amount. 

In  the  first  place,  the  cottage  must  necessarily  cover 
more  ground  in  order  to  obtain  the  same  amount  of  room, 
and  this  must  be  in  width  as  well  as  length;  hence  the 
advantage  in  building  on  narrow  lots;  we  have  much 
more  ground  left  for  a  lawn  at  the  side,  and  also  for  a  yard 
in  the  rear,  as  well  as  more  light  and  air,  which  are  of  con- 
sideration. 

In  the  second  place,  the  height  of  the   walls  of  a  one- 


STORY-AND-A-HALF  HO  USE.  1 2 1 

story  cottage  must  be  twelve  feet,  only  four  feet  less  than 
the  other ;  the  amount  of  roof  must  be  as  much  more  as 
would  be  required  to  cover  the  amount  of  two  sleeping- 
rooms  on  first  floor,  (and  these  rooms  cannot  be  as  large  as 
those  in  the  story-and-a-half  house),  usually  with  one  win- 
dow in  a  room,  or  if  there  are  two,  they  must  be  on  the 
same  side.  The  result  will  be  small  sleeping-rooms  that  can 
never  be  ventilated  as  well  as  a  room  on  the  second  floor, 
with  windows  on  two  sides. 

And  again,  do  what  you  may  in  the  way  of  embelish- 
ment  outside,  you  can  never  produce  on  the  one-story  build- 
ing that  symmetry  of  outline  and  beauty  of  proportion  so 
easily  obtained  in  the  other;  therefore  we  think  that  these 
considerations  are  decidedly  in  favor  of  the  story-and-a-half 
house,  and  worthy  of  the  careful  attention  of  any  one 
interested  in  this  class  of  houses. 


-*•*- 


DESIGN  IV.— STORY-AND-A-HALF  HOUSE. 

We  follow  here  with  another  design  of  a  story-and-a- 
half  house,  the  first  floor  plan  being  seen  in  Fig.  13,  and  a 
fine  perspective  of  the  front  and  one  side  in  Fig.  14,  show- 
ing the  house  and  lawn  as  they  actually  appear  when  com- 
pleted. This  building  is  not  so  high  as  the  one  last 
described,  the  posts  being  14  feet,  making  the  rooms  on  first 
floor  nine  feet,  and  on  the  second,  four  feet  and  six  inches 
at  the  side,  and  eight  feet  six  inches  in  the  center  of  the 
room.  For  the  difference  in  cost  we  would  not  recommend 
a  house  with  rooms  so  low.  The  outside,  while  decidedly 
plain,  possesses  something  that  commands  attention. 


122 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


The  broad,  sheltering  cornice  gives  to  it  the  appearance 
of  ample  protection  from  sun  and  storm;  the  hooded 
windows  in  front  and  inviting  porticoes  with  climbing  vines 
lend  to  it  a  charm  which  must  impress  one  that  the  inmates 
of  a  home  like  this  should  enjoy  their  share  of  worldly  bless- 


Fig.  "3- 


ings,  such  as  belong  only  to  those  who  have  worked  hard  and 
perhaps  long  to  come  into  possession  of  such  a  place. 

The  outside  walls  are  covered  with  clapboards,  and  the 
roofs,  including  hood  and  porticoes,  are  all  shingled. 


ARRANGEMENT  OF  ROOMS. 


123 


The  first  floor  plan,  Fig.  13,  shows;  1  and  5,  porticoes,  1 
opening  into  front  staircase  haU,  and  5  into  parlor  3,  -which 
is  15  ft.  square;  this  is  connected  with  hall  2,  9x1 4  ft.,  with 
a   neat  staircase   to  second   floor   and   closet   underneath. 


Fig.  14- 


From  the  parlor  is  a  room  for  library  4,  11x14  ft.,  with 
door  to  sitting-room  6,  15x16  ft.,  wTith  double  window  in 
the  rear,  also  door  to  hall  and  to  kitchen  7,  9x16  ft.,  and 
back  of  this,  pantry  8,  5x9  ft. 

On  the  second  floor  there  are  three  good  rooms,  one  over 


124 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


parlor  and  one  over  sitting-room,  with  a  hall  running  cross- 
wise of  the  building,  from  where  the  stairs  land  to  the  room 
over  the  library.  These  rooms  are  all  lighted  from  windows 
in  the  gables,  and  each  room  is  supplied  with  a  commodious 
closet. 

At  the  present  price  of  all  kinds  of  material  and  labor, 
this  building;  can  be  erected  for  about  $900.00. 


Ghaptm   XYf. 


STORY-AND-A-HALF  HOUSES  CONTINUED.  —  A  HOUSE  THAT 
WILL  ADMIT  SUNLIGHT  TO  EVERY  ROOM. — APPEARANCE 
MADE  SUBORDINATE  TO  ARRANGEMENT  OF  ROOMS. — AN 
EXCELLENT    FLOOR  PLAN. 


3*  DESIGN  V,  -ns 

E  give  in  Fig.  15  first-floor  plan,  and  in  Fig.  16 
perspective  view  of  a  fine  and  commodious  story  - 
and-a-half  house  well  adapted  for  a  country  or 
suburban  residence.  It  is  well  adapted  for  a 
corner  lot,  but  if  it  is  of  good  width,  an  inside 
lot  will  do. 

By  referring  to  first  floor  plan,  Fig.  15,  it  will 
be  seen  that  this  house  contains  much  more  room 
and  on  a  scale  more  elaborate  than  anything  yet 
shown  in  the  preceding  story-and-a-half  houses, 
and  of  course  costs  more. 
A  is  the  fine,  large  veranda,  and  from  this  the  front  or 
principal  entrance  opens  to  main  hall  B  and  spacious  stair- 
case, with  window  on  the  landing,  of  stained  glass  in  rich, 
harmonious  colors,  admitting  a  beautiful,  subdued  light  into 
the  hall  below. 

C  is  the  parlor,  13x17  ft.,  with  a  broad  bay-window  on 

[125] 


126 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


the  front,  adding  much  to  the  dimensions  and  appearance  of 
the  room  as  well  as  to  the  external  effect.  Opposite  this  is 
an  open  grate,  facing  the  window,  whose  cheering  flame  can 
be  seen  from  the  street  by  the  passers-by,  if  the  blinds  are 
open.  Who  is  there,  that  may  chance  to  be  out  on  the  street 
on  a  cold  winter  night,  who  does  not  admire  the  view  of  the 
light  of  the  open  fire  flickering  through  the  window, 
su foresting;  warmth  and  comfort  to  those  within? 


A 


Fig.  15. 


E  is  the  library  of  ample  size,  with  a  square  bay-window 
on  the  front  and  a  window  out  to  veranda;  it  also  has  a 
grate  and  mantel  with  a  closet  in  one  corner  of  the  room  on 
the  side  of  the  grate. 

D  is  the  sitting  or  main  living  room.  It  is  large,  and 
connects  with  hall  and  parlor,  with  door  out  on  the  veranda 
L.     It  also  has  a  grate  near  one  corner.     From  this  room 


AN  EXCELLENT  FLOOR  PLAN  127 

a  narrow  hall- way  leads  to  dining-room  F,  with  doors  on 
each  side  of  hall-way,  one  opening  into  a  large  china  closet, 
and  the  other  to  bath-room  containing  bath-tub  and  wash- 
basin. 

The  dining-room  is  very  pleasant,  as  windows  and  sash 
doors  open  out  on  each  side  to  verandas,  and  admit  plenty 
of  light  and  air. 

H  is  the  kitchen  with  a  stair-way  F  to  attic,  and  cellar 
under,  and  a  window  and  sash  door  to  veranda-  On  the 
opposite  side,  adjoining  the  kitchen  is  a  large  pantry  I, 
fitted  up  with  plenty  of  shelves,  cupboards,  and  drawers ;  a 
door  from  this  leads  to  veranda  where  there  is  a  pump  O  to 
cistern,  and  other  conveniences.  A  sink  is  located  in  the 
pantry,  it  being  large  enough  to  admit  of  it. 

On  the  second  floor  we  have  three  fine,  large  chambers, 
all  opening  from  the  hall,  and  each  supplied  with  a  commodi- 
ous closet.  Over  the  dining-room  part  is  located  a  servants' 
room  and  a  store-room. 

The  outside,  although  quite  plain  so  far  as  decorative 
effect  goes,  presents  a  very  neat  appearance;  and  with  so 
many  broad  verandas  on  each  side  of  the  house,  it  suggests 
comfort  outside  in  the  summer  time. 

A  fine  roof  of  slate,  cut  to  a  nice  pattern,  and  laid  in 
two  colors  and  with  the  ridge  surmounted  by  terra  cotta 
chimneys,  adds  in  a  large  measure  to  the  pleasing  appear- 
ance presented  by  the  design. 

Completed,  the  house  would  cost,  $1600.00. 


"E1R 


k  RURAL  COTTAGE  HOME. — A  PLAN  THAT  COMBINES  CON- 
VENIENCE AND  BEAUTY. — SIMPLE  ADORNMENTS  THAT 
ADD  TO  COMFORT. — PERSPECTIVE  VIEW  OF  A  PICTUR- 
ESQUE  GOTHIC   HOUSE. 


DESIGN  VI. 


N  the  plan,  Fig.  17,  and  the  perspective,  Fig.  18, 
we  present  what  may  be  appropriately  termed  a 
RURAL  COTTAGE  HOME.  The  first  floor,  Fig.  17, 
shows  a  very  complete  arrangement  of  rooms, 
consisting  of  large  parlor,  hall  in  the  center 
of  house,  the  dining-room  being  of  the  same  size 
as  the  parlor,  with  the  front  end  beveled,  giving 
it  the  appearance  of  a  bay-window.  A  double 
window  is  in  this  end,  and  china  closet  on  one 
side,  with  a  private  pantry  on  the  other.  A 
door  from  one  corner  of  this  room  opens  into  the 
rear  hall,  which  is  cut  oft'  from  the  front  hall  by  door  C,  with 
a  small  closet  in  the  back  end  and  a  cellar  door  and  stairs 
under  main  stair-way.  The  kitchen  is  of  good  size,  with  a 
back  entry,  pantry,  and  store-room  off  from  side. 

In  the  rear  of  the  parlor  is  a  child's  room  and  a  fair- 
sized  bed-room.     On  the  front,  off  from  the  main  hall,  is  the 
[128] 


do 


DESIGN  FOR  RURAL  COTTAGE. 


129 


study  or  sitting-room,  with  two  closets  on  each  side  of  a 
mantel,  and  grate  in  the  center,  there  being  one  on  the 
opposite  side  from  this  in  the  dining-room,  both  using  the 
same  chimney. 

The  door  A  should  be  glazed,  as  it  comes  opposite  to  the 
window  in  the  bed-room,  and  will  serve  to  light  the  hall. 
The  second-floor  plan  contains  five  bed-rooms  all  accessible 


BED   ROOM 
XfX.13. 


CHILD'S       12L 
BED   R.        \PL 
7X9 


KITCHEN 
i2X  IS 


IpantryI  store 


STORE    R. 


DINING  R. 
13  X.16 


UXi 


RBOUR  •.,< 


Fig.  17. 


from  a  central  hall-way  at  the  head  of  the  stair  landing,  and 
all  being  accommodated  with  closets. 

The  main  posts  being  16  ft.  long,  the  first  story  should 
be  9  ft.  and  8  in.  between  timbers ;  and  the  second  story  6  ft. 

9 


130  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

4  in.  on  the  sides,  and  9  ft.  through  the  center.  The  outside 
walls  are  intended  to  be  boarded  vertically  with  ten-inch 
boards  with  molded  battens  over  the  joints. 

We  think  the  exterior  of  this  cottage  admirable;  the 
rustic  veranda  and  trellises  over  the  doors  and  windows  are 
intended  for  vines,  not  merely  as  supports  for  them,  but  to 
give  thereby  an  air  of  rural  refinement  and  poetry  to  the 
house. 

Cedar  poles  are  the  best  for  trellises,  but  other  accessible 
woods  may  be  used,  and  the  bark  should  be  left  on.  The 
embellishment  with  vines  may  be  cheaply  and  quickly 
secured  by  any  person  of  taste  who  knows  how  to  select, 
plant,  and  train  them ;  and  they  should  be  selected,  planted, 
and  trained  by  every  person  who  lives  in  such  a  cottage. 
Such  garniture  is  the  best  external  evidence  of  refine- 
ment and  good  taste  that  can  be  employed;  and  as  an 
educational  agency  in  a  family,  nothing  is  more  potent  nor 
gives  greater  pleasure. 

This  cottage  would  probably  cost  near  $1500  but  a 
cheaper  one  with  the  same  rooms  and  conveniences  could 
scarcely  be  devised. 


-*♦*- 


DESIGN  VII. 

In  our  illustration,  Fig.  19,  we  give  a  perspective  view 
of  a  picturesque  and  most  admirable  exterior  of  a  modern 
gothic-roofed  story-and-a-half  house.  This  is  particularly 
adapted  for  a  country  house  or  suburban  residence  with 
plenty  of  room  around  it,  and  should  be  set  on  an  elevation, 
the  ground  sloping  away  in  all  directions,  with  plenty  of 


m 
to 


A  PICTURESQUE  GOTHIC  HOUSE. 


131 


surrounding  shrubbery.  The  clipped  or  hooded  gables, 
trimmed  with  neat  tracery  and  broad  projections  of  roof 
and  cornices,  with  wide  veranda  and  canopy  tops  over  the 
windows,  all  do  much  toward  making  up  the  general  form 
and  graceful  outline  of  the  house. 

The  first  floor  contains  four  large  rooms;  viz,  parlor, 
sitting-room,  dining-room,  kitchen  with  pantry,  and  bath- 
room, besides  a  fine  hall  and  easy  staircase.  Oh  the  second 
floor  are  four  good  bed-rooms  and  a  closet  to  each,  with  a 
hall  opening  into  all  rooms. 

The  sides  of  house  are  clapboarded  in  the  usual  manner 
and  the  roof  shingled.  The  house  should  be  painted  on  the 
outside  in  two  modern  colors  of  light  drab  or  stone  color  for 
body,  and  darker  trimmings.  Such  a  house,  furnished  in 
first-class  style,  would  probably  not  exceed  $1700  in  cash. 


(flHAF^TRR     XYIfl. 


MORE  DURABLE  MATERIAL. — A  SOLID  GOTHIC  HOUSE. — STYLE, 
NOT  NEW  BUT  POPULAR. — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PLANS. 
— COST  OF  ERECTION. — DESIGN  IX. — EXTENSIVE  FARM 
RESIDENCE   AND  BARN. 


^DESIGN  VIII.  ^ 


E  now  pass  to  a  house  composed  of  material  more 
durable  and  costly.  Figs.  20,  21,  and  22  pre- 
sent a  design  of  a  building  intended  for  a  farm- 
house, to  be  built  of  stone.  The  leading  ideas  in 
the  arrangement  of  the  rooms  were  compactness 
and  convenience,  something  less  pretentious  but 
fully  as  cosy,  if  the  main  stair-way  is  made  to 
take  a  subordinate  position  from  the  usual  place 
assigned  it  near  the  front  entrance.  A  is  the 
porch  in  the  base  of  the  tower,  with  front  en- 
trance opening  directly  into  the  main  living- 
room  C,  15x15  ft.  The  parlor  B  is  the  same  size  as  the 
living-room,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  door,  which 
might  be  a  sliding  door  if  desired.  D  is  the  library,  or  ow- 
ing to  its  location  away  from  other  rooms,  could  be  used 
for  a  sick-room  when  occasion  might  require  it.  This  room 
is  Oxll  ft.,  a  good  closet  for  its  accommodation  being  made 

(132) 


A  SOLID  GOTHIC  HOUSE. 


133 


under  the  staircase.  The  kitchen  E  is  llxl2i  ft. ;  bed-room 
F,  7JxlO  ft.,  with  closet  J,  off  from  it;  pantry  G,  8x10  ft. ; 
hall  H;  wood-shed  I,  15x15  ft. ;  closets  J,  J,  and  veranda  V. 
On  the  second  floor  are  commodious  sleeping-rooms,  N,  O, 
L,  and  F,  all  of  which  are  well-lighted  and  have  good  closets 
J,  J,  J,  J.  A  hall-way,  H,  H,  runs  from  in  the^tower  to  main 
and  rear  staircases,  and  the  room  M  is  for  a  servant's  room , 


32 


Figr.    20. 


K  is  the  balcony  on  tower,  and  a  narrow  stair- way,  with 
rail,  leads  from  main  hall  up  to  the  tower  observatory. 

The  general  form  of  the  outer  walls  is  such  as  admits  of 
a  picturesque  outline  in  the  elevation,  and  in  the  treatment 
of  the  exterior  finish  the  expenditure  has  been  spread  out  in 
simple  embellishments  over  the  whole  structure  rather  than 
concentrated  upon  an  elaborate  cornice. 


134 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


This  design,  we  are  well  aware,  is  not  altogether  new, 
neither  did  we  intend  it  should  be ;  it  is  simply  a  study  of 
the  old  gothic  forms  of  architecture,  whose  pleasing  outlines 
can  never  become  old  to  the  lover  of  the  beautiful.  This 
house,  if  built  of  stone  as  designed,  will  not  only  impress 
the  beholder  with  a  sense  of  quiet  repose  and  harmony,  but 


Fig.  21, 


it  will  have  the  effect  of  strength  and  solidity  combined  with 
its  outward  appearance. 

This  building  might  be  erected  of  brick  or  wood,  in  which 
case  the  plan  of  windows  and  doors  might  vary  slightly 
from  that  shown  in  the  illustration.  We  should,  however, 
recommend  the  use  of  stone,  when  the  cost  of  the  building 
complete  would  be  near  $5000.00. 


AN  EXTENSIVE  FARM  RESIDENCE.  135 

DESIGN  IX. 

We  present  in  Fig.  23  first-floor  plan,  and  in  Fig.  24 
perspective  view,  of  an  extensive  farm  residence  and  barn, 
that  we  think  are  very  complete  in  their  appointments 
throughout. 

Scattered  far  and  wide  over  the  land,  we  now  find  a 
great  many  elegant  and  comfortable  homes  among  the  farm- 
ers, the  majority  of  whom,  not  many  years  ago,  commenced 
life  with  very  little  of  this  world's  goods.  Some,  settling- 
down  in  the  dense  forests,  and  others  on  the  broad  prairies, 
have  by  their  own  indomitable  perseverance  and  energy 
and  the  strength  of  their  arm,  swept  away  the  forests,  and 
turned  into  flowering  fields  the  desolate  wilds  of  the  prairies, 
where  tall  grasses  were  shaken  by  the  morning  winds,  or 
trodden  beneath  the  feet  of  the  wild  beast. 

The  fertile  soil  produces  such  abundance  that  it  has  been 
said  that  America  could  feed  the  nations  of  the  world  if 
necessity  should  ever  require  it.  We  all  know  full  well  the 
mighty  power  that  lies  in  the  tillers  of  the  soil;  and  it  is 
with  pleasure  that  we  note  their  enterprise  in  erecting  beau- 
tiful homes  and  comfortable  farm  buildings  where  they  can 
enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  labor. 

The  following  is  the  description  of  the  plan  of  rooms  and 
out- buildings,  accompanying  the  elevation:  On  first  floor, 
1,  1,  porches;  2,  2,  vestibules;  3,  hall,  8  ft.  4  in.  wide;  4, 
sitting-room,  15x15  ft. ;  5,  parlor,  15x15  ft. ;  6,  library,  9x15 
ft.;  7;  dining-room,  15x18  ft.;  8,  kitchen,  13x24  ft.,  includ- 
ing stair-way  to  cellar,  a  milk-room  being  underneath 
kitchen  in  basement;  9,  pantry,  6x12  ft.;  10,  wash-room  or 
laundry,  with  arch,  kettle,  back  staircase,  etc. ;  11, 11,  water- 
closets;  12,  open  shed,  29x24  ft. 


Fig    23. 


I 


1 
I 


3«o 

to 

«J 

CJ 

]"> 

AN  EXTENSIVE  FARM  RESIDENCE.  13, 

On  the  second  floor  is  a  balcony  over  each  of  the  porches, 
a  hall  extending  through  the  middle  of  house  over  the  one 
below,  six  large  sleeping  apartments,  ample  closet  ac- 
commodation to -each,  linen  closet,  and  bath-room  opening 
off  from  the  hall,  and  in  the  rear  part,  two  servants'  rooms 
of  good  size. 

Plan  for  barn :  Cattle  stable  and  root  cellar  in  the  base- 
ment; A,  A,  floors,  13  ft.,  with  scaffolding  overhead,  B, 
threshing  floor,  26x38  ft. ;  C,  grain  bag,  32x38  ft. ;  D,  D, 
hay  mows,  26x48  and  36x42  ft. ;  E,  granary,  15x24  ft. ,  F, 
room  for  large  tools,  16x24  ft. ;  G,  G,  passages  from  one  bam 
floor  to  the  other,  6  ft.  wide  and  7  ft.  high ;  H,  tool  room, 
12x24  ft.;  J,  feed  room,  lHxl2  ft.;  K,  harness  room, 
12x14  ft.;  L,  horse  stalls,  5  ft.  wide;  M,  M,  box  stalls, 
12x12  ft. ;  N,  hog-pens,  with  run-way  under  the  floors  to 
manure  pit  in  the  basement  under  horse  stalls;  O,  cook- 
room  with  arch,  kettle,  etc.,  28x39  ft.,  including  the  hog- 
pens; P.  hennery,  13x23  ft.;  R,  chute  for  straw  to  bay  in 
basement;  S,  S,  hay  chutes;  V,  V,  ventilation.  Such  is  the 
arrangement  for  the  barn  and  its  accessories. 

It  is  not  only  most  gratifying  to  have  good  buildings  and 
things  made  convenient  for  the  care  and  protection  of  the 
live  stock,  farm  implements,  and  produce  of  the  farm,  but 
it  pays  to  have  these  things  well  cared  for.  Regarding  the 
cost  of  such  a  series  of  buildings,  it  is  not  easy  to  make  an 
estimate,  from  the  fact  that  much  that  is  needed  on  one 
farm  can  be  dispensed  with  on  another  of  less  size. 


(flm^F'TRR     XIX. 


AN  ELEGANT  BRICK  RESIDENCE.  —  COMFORT  AND  BEAUTY 
COMBINED. — DESCRIPTION  OF  PLAN,  MATERIALS,  AND 
CONSTRUCTION. — DESIGN    XL — A    MODERN    VILLA. 


DESIGN  X, 


UR  illustrations,  Figs.  25  and  26  are  the  first 
floor  and  perspective  of  an  elegant  brick  resi- 
dence, designed  by  the  author  and  erected  in 
Detroit  at  a  cost  of  live  thousand  dollars.  It 
illustrates  in  a  striking  manner  the  advantages 
of  brick  over  stone  as  a  material  for  building, 
for  by  its  use  any  desirable  rectangular  form 
can  be  secured  without  the  expense  of  cutting 
and  fitting,  as  is  the  case  in  stone  work. 

This    building  makes  a  very  imposing  and 

picturesque  appearance,  and  the  arrangement  of 

the  rooms  is  such  as  to  secure  the  admission  of  sunlight  and 

to  afford  an  excellent  view  of  the  street  from  the  principal 

rooms. 

The  foundations,  laid  of  stone,  are  18  inches  thick,  with  a 

cellar  7  feet  in  the  clear,  extending  under  the  entire  house. 

The    laundry,    which    is    situated  in  the    cellar    under   the 

kitchen,  is  supplied  with  three  laundry  tubs,  hot  and  cold 

p38] 


AN  ELEGANT  BRICK  RESIDENCE.  139 

water,  and  a  water-closet;  and  under  room  E  of  first  floor 
is  the  vegetable  room,  opening  from  the  laundry.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  cellar  is  occupied  by  the  heating  furnace, 
fuel,  and  store-rooms,  the  furnace  being  bricked  in  and  hav- 
ing hot-air  pipes  extending  to  the  three  main  rooms  and  hall 
on  first  floor,  and  to  the  chambers  and  bath-room  on  second 
floor.  Under  and  around  the  house  is  laid  a  complete  sys- 
tem of  drainage-pipes,  and  the  floor  of  cellar  is  laid  with 
concrete. 

The  plan  of  the  first  floor  is  shown  in  Fig.  25 :  A  is  the 
portico,  extending  around  the  curved  platform  and  connect- 
ing with  the  veranda  O,  making  a  fine  double  entrance  by 
one  flight  of  steps.  Black-walnut  doors  of  a  pleasing  design 
open  into  the  hall  B,  9x18  ft.,  from  which,  at  P,  ascends 
an  elegant  landing-stairs  finished  in  butternut  and  black- 
walnut,  the  newel  post  being  square  and  of  an  unique 
design,  with  a  rail  of  butternut  neatly  cut  and  molded. 

The  parlor  C,  13ixl8  ft.,  is  so  constructed  as  to  give  it 
the  appearance,  in  front,  of  a  bay-window  the  whole  width 
of  the  room.  This  is  a  very  pleasant  feature,  both  of  the 
parlor  and  the  room  above,  as  it  gives,  to  one  standing  in 
the  front  of  the  room,  a  view  of  the  street  in  both  directions. 
D  is  the  back  parlor,  or  sitting-room,  13ixl6  ft.,  opening 
from  the  rear  of  which  is  a  toilet-room  L,  containing  wash- 
basin, with  hot  and  cold  water,  and  a  closet,  and  K,  a  clothes 
or  general  closet. 

The  dining-room  E,  12x16  ft.,  is  reached  by  side  en- 
trance, hall,  or  rear  parlor,  and  the  three  main  rooms  and 
hall  are  easily  thrown  into  one  grand  reception-room,  by 
means  of  broad,  sliding  doors  that  run  on  tracks  overhead, 
thereby  leaving  nothing  in  the  way  of    carpets  extending 


140  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


F'g'  25 


AN  ELEGANT  BRICK  RESIDENCE.  Hi 

throughout  these  rooms.  Each  of  these  rooms  is  provided 
with  a  grate  and  elegant  mantles  of  slate. 

Connecting  with  the  dining-room  is  the  kitchen  H, 
12x16  ft.,  from  which  opens  a  commodious  pantry  G,  stair- 
way I  to  cellar,  rear  stair-way  J  to  second  floor,  outside 
entrance  N  to  basement,  and  the  china-closet  M. 

A  cut  of  second  floor  is  not  necessary,  as  it  is  arranged 
similar  to  the  floor  below,  excepting  that  a  hall  four  feet 
wide  runs  from  front  to  rear,  giving  direct  communication 
to  all  the  chambers;  and  the  bath-room,  fitted  up  with 
copper-lined  bath-tub,  a  wash-stand,  and  a  best  Alexander 
water-closet,  is  located  over  toilet-room  L.  Each  chamber 
is  supplied  with  a  closet,  and  a  large  linen-closet  with 
shelves  and  drawers  is  placed  over  rear  stairs. 

The  front  hall  on  this  floor  extends  from  front  window 
over  portico  to  the  window  at  head  of  rear  staircase.  This 
arrangement  secures  a  free  circulation  of  air  through  the 
hall  and  rooms  when  desired. 

The  attic,  which  is  reached  by  a  narrow,  inclosed  stair- 
case over  the  main  stairs,  can  be  finished  into  three  good, 
comfortable  rooms. 

The  windows  are  trimmed  with  best  Ohio  buff  sandstone, 
and  the  brick- work  is  stained  and  the  joints  penciled  black, 
which  arrangement  shows  to  excellent  effect.  The  roof  is  of 
best  Pennsylvania  black  slate,  cut  a  hexagonal  pattern,  laid 
over  roofing  felt,  and  is  one  of  the  attractive  features  of  the 
building.  Iron  cresting  and  finials  of  peculiar  design 
ornament  the  ridges  of  main  part  of  roof,  and  the  cresting, 
portico,  and  veranda  are  of  wood. 

By  referring  to  the  perspective  view,  it  will  be  seen  tha 
the  front  gable,  forming  the  angles  for  the  bay-shaped  rooms, 


142  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

extends  out  over  the  front  in  the  same  manner  as  it  would 
if  the  entire  end  were  square.  The  projecting  cornice  that 
overhangs  the  angles  is  supported  on  two  massive  brackets, 
springing  out  from  each  angle  and  joining  under  the  cornice. 

The  front  is  filled  with  neat  tracery,  which,  with  the 
supporting  brackets,  verge-boards,  etc.,  all  combine  to  form 
an  imposing  front. 

It  is  not  egotistical  to  say  that  this  building  possesses  to 
a  high  degree  the  requisites  of  convenience  and  comfort, 
with  no  small  degree  of  taste,  for  the  amount  of  money  re- 
quired in  its  construction.  We  commend  it  to  all  who  wish 
a  house  of  like  cost  and  accommodations. 


DESIGN   XL 


Our  illustration  is  a  perspective  view  of  a  fine  suburban 
villa  of  ample  dimensions.  The  plans  and  specifications  of 
such  a  residence  should  be  made  by  none  but  the  best  archi- 
tects, and  those  contemplating  such  a  house  will  of  course 
put  its  construction  into  none  but  the  best  hands. 


.^Cl^** 


XX. 


HOW   TO   BUILD  A  SUMMER  COTTAGE. — CHEAP,  BUT  ATTRACT- 
IVE    HOUSES    IN    THE     HOT     SEASON. HOW    TO    BUILD   A 

RUSTIC    ARBOR. — A    FEW    SUGGESTIONS  ON  BEAUTIFYING 
THE    SURROUNDINGS    WITH    LITTLE    EXPENSE. 


-»0^©<CK^ 


S  the  warm  season  approaches,  many  persons,  es- 
pecially those  in  cities,  are  anxious  to  retire  to 
some   spot   where    they   may   escape   the   heat. 
ip  Many   go  to   the   fashionable   watering   places, 
some  to  private  boarding  houses  in  the  country, 
and  not  a  few  camp  out  by  some  lake  or  stream. 
Generally  such   persons  are  able  to  bear  the 
expense,    and   have  a  summer-house   on    a   lot 
owned  or  controlled  by  themselves,  located  near 
some  lake,  bay,  or  stream,  easy  of  access  to  the 
outside  world,  but  far  enough  away  to  escape  its 
anxieties.     To  such  we  offer  a  few  suggestions. 

We  will  suppose  that  a  summer  cottage  for  a  family  of 
four  is  to  be  constructed.  We  must  have  two  rooms  on  the 
first  floor,  and  the  same  number  above  for  sleeping  apart- 
ments.    The  plan  and  dimensions  will  be  as  follows:    The 

house  will  be  13x25  ft.,  making  the  front  room  12x12  ft., 

[143] 


144  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  back  room,  10x12  ft.  for  dining-room,  with  a  staircase 
between,  2  J  ft.  wide,  the  space  under  staircase  being  used 
foi  a  pantry.  The  same  arrangement  of  rooms  on  second 
floor  will  answer.  The  roof  can  be  extended  out  four  feet 
over  the  front,  and  a  veranda  constructed  for  first  floor,  the 
roof  of  which  will  serve  as  a  balcony  to  front  sleeping- 
apartment. 

In  the  rear  of  house,  we  would  construct  a  cook-room,  or 
kitchen,  with  shelves  in  corners,  10x10,  with  a  shed  roof 
attached  to  main  building.  We  now  have  the  plan  of  the 
house,  let  us  consider  kind,  quality,  and  cost  of  materials. 

The  structure  will  require  thirteen  foundation  posts,  7 
in.  in  diameter  and  not  less  than  5  ft.  long;  set  four  posts 
on  the  long  sides,  one  in  the  center  of  eaoh  end,  and  three 
for  the  kitchen,  costing  not  over  $2.  GO.  Lumber  for  the 
building  will  be  required  as  follows  2  sills,  QxQ  in.,  25  ft. 
long;  3  sills,  same  size,  13  ft.  long;  38  studding,  2x4  in., 
14  ft.  long;  14  studding,  same  size,  13  ft.  long,  for  plates; 
22,  studding  12  ft.  long,  for  kitchen  walls  and  rafters;  34 
pieces,  10  ft.  long,  for  rafters  and  gable  ends;  22  pieces, 
2x8  in.,  joists  for  first  floor,  same  number,  2x6  in.,  for  sec- 
ond floor,  all  13  ft.  long;  0  pieces,  4x4  in.,  9  ft.  long,  for 
veranda  posts;  and  7  pieces,  2x8  in.,  10  ft.  long,  for  floor 
joists  of  cook-room.  This  includes  all  the  framing  lumber 
required  in  the  frame-work,  and  is  not  more  than  two 
thousand  feet  board  measure,  which  would  cost  $15.00  per 
thousand,  or  $30.00 

The  covering  boards  for  the  outside  walls  should  be  of  a 
good  smooth  quality  of  what  is  usually  termed  "barn 
boards,"  planed  on  both  sides  and  applied  vertically,  and 
the  joints  covered  with  two-inch  battens;  1300  ft.  will  be 


cm*** 


PLAN  OF  SUMMER  COTTAGE.  145 

required  at  a  cost  of  $20.00.  700  ft.  of  roofing  boards, 
planed  on  one  side,  sound  but  not  necessarily  free  from 
knots,  will  cost  £9.00.  5000  shingles  for  main  roof  and 
kitchen,  at  $4.00  per  thousand,  $20.00.  The  flooring,  of 
pine  or  spruce,  matched  and  laid  in  the  ordinary  way,  800 
ft.,  at  a  cost  of  $17.00. 

For  the  main  cornice  use  a  simple  12-inch  projection  on 
rafters,  with  a  verge-board  cut  in  a  neat  pattern  for  eaves 
and  gables ;  the  rafters  being  planed  no  plancher  will  be  nec- 
essary. The  veranda  is  made  by  extending  columns  up  to 
the  roof  with  a  railing  of  simple  pattern  around  the  upper 
floor  or  balconv. 

There  should  be  at  least  two  windows  in  front  room,  and 
the  same  number  in  the  rear  rooms,  all  of  common,  plain 
frames,  with  two-light  sash,  24x36  inches.  One  door  opens 
to  each  front  room,  one  to  veranda  and  balcony,  one  between 
two  upper  rooms,  and  one  to  kitchen,  no  door  being  neces- 
sary between  the  two  main  rooms  below.  Partitions  between 
rooms  of  main  floors  are  of  plain  matched  material,  and  the 
staircase  a  box  stairs,  forming  a  pantry  underneath. 

The  foregoing  includes  in  a  general  way  the  principal 
things  needed  for  the  cottage,  and  below  are  the  figures 
giving  approximate  cost  of  material  and  erection : — 

Framing  material, $32.00 

Covering  boards,     20.00 

Roofing  boards,    9.00 

Shingles, 20.00 

Flooring, 17.00 

Battens,     6.00 

Moldings,  verge-boards,  etc., 15.00 

Windows  all  complete,     20.00 

10 


146  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Doors  all  complete, $12.00 

Staircase  and  extra  lumber,    6.00 

Painting — two  coats, 20.00 

Labor  of  putting  up  the  building, 50.00 

Contingent  expenses,    10.00 

The  whole  cost  need  not  exceed  $240.00,  and  in  many- 
localities  it  will  come  within  $200.00. 

Hundreds  of  people  can  possess  such  a  building  for  sum- 
mer use,  to  which  they  may  retire  and  spend  the  "heated 
term  "  in  the  most  pleasant  manner.  Certainly  the  expense 
is  not  so  great  as  to  deter  people  in  comfortable  circum- 
stances, besides  the  same  amount  would  be  spent  in  two 
summers,  in  boarding  and  other  expenses,  with  far  less  real 
comfort. 

How  to  Construct  a  Rustic   House. 

Where  there  Is  anything  like  spacious  grounds  around 
a  house,  that  can  be  used  for  a  lawn,  nothing  adds  more 
to  the  attractiveness  of  the  out-door  scenery  than  a  cosey, 
rustic  retreat,  covered  with  climbing  vines,  whose  leaf}" 
foliage  forms  a  most  inviting  welcome  to  whoever  may  seek 
shelter  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  summer  sun,  and 
rest  upon  the  rude  seats  within.  A  rustic  summer-house  is 
quite  simple  to  build,  and  a  great  variety  of  forms  can  easily 
be  made  if  the  material  can  be  readily  obtained.  Cedar  is 
the  best  and  can  be  found  in  most  localities;  but  spruce 
will  do  very  well  where  cedar  cannot  be  obtained.  If  one 
lives  in  the  country,  and  the  material  is  to  be  cut  in  the 
woods,  it  should  be  selected,  for  the  most  part,  from  small 
trees  or  saplings  as  near  of  a  size  as  possible. 

But  a  variety  of  sizes  will  be  needed  in  trimming  up,  go 
that   in   cutting  we  may  take  some  of   both   larger  and 


A  RUSTIC  SUMMER  HOUSE.  147 

smaller  sizes.  Trim  off  roughly,  that  is,  cut  the  small  limbs 
not  close  to  the  body  of  the  tree.  Now,  for  illustration,  we 
will  build  a  small  arbor,  say  8  ft.  wide  and  12  ft.  long.  Of 
course,  in  selecting  our  material  we  must  know  first  what 
we  are  to  build,  and  select  certain  parts  for  certain  places. 

For  the  arbor  we  are  considering,  we  must  have  six 
posts  about  5  in.  in  diameter,  one  for  each  corner,  and  one 
in  the  middle  of  each  side.  These  make  our  mam  supports 
for  the  superstructure.  From  the  top  of  these  carry  across 
the  eight-foot  way  stout  poles  and  secure  them  in  place; 
now  on  the  top  of  the  ends  of  these  pieces  we  will  extend 
pieces  the  reverse  of  the  former  and  over  the  posts,  thus 
making,  as  it  were,  the  plates,  which  should  extend  over  two 
feet  at  each  end,  the  center  pole  extending  parallel  with 
pieces  last  mentioned,  and  of  the  same  length;  this  center 
piece  must  be  raised  to  the  height  of  two  feet  above  the 
others,  and  will  rest  on  an  upright  piece  .set  down  upon  the 
cross-pieces  before  mentioned.  We  now  have  the  outline  of 
our  structure.  The  roof  should  be  covered  with  poles  two 
inches  apart,  extending  over  the  eaves  2  ft.  and  joining  in 
the  center  of  the  roof.  The  plates,  should  be  9  ft.  from  the 
ground,  and  parallel  with  them,  down  16  in.  below,  all 
around,  place  other  sticks,  and  under  the  corners  place 
braces.  Between  the  pieces  parallel  with  the  plate,  cut 
in  cross-pieces  close  together,  all  around,  and  fill  in  the 
gables  of  the  roof,  pieces  cut  in  any  form  that  the  taste  may 
suggest.  The  sides  and  ends,  except  a  three-foot  opening  in 
center  of  each  end,  must  have  a  rail  all  around,  three  feet 
high,  cut  in  between  the  main  posts ;  also  a  piece  around  in 
the  same  manner  near  the  ground;  then  fill  in  this  space 
under  the  rails  in  any  form  that  may  be  desired,  and  on 
each  of  the  two  sides  make  a  seat  of  the  smaller  poles. 


148 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


This  completes  our  description  of  one  simple  form  of 
making  a  rustic  summer-house.  Very  little  skill  is  required, 
nor  many  tools;  a  saw,  hammer,  and  sharp  hatchet  are  th<v 
main  ones  that  Avill  be  required,  with  plenty  of  tenpenn  y 
nails  for  securing  the  work.  Of  course  a  little  good  taste  in 
arranging  the  forms  of  roof  and  trimming  the  same,  may 
add  much  to  its  symmetry.  Some  of  the  many  kinds 
of  climbing  vines  .should  be  planted  and  trained  to  spread 
their  foliage  over  the  roof,  and  we  have  the  arbor  complete. 

We  have  seen  a  very  pretty  rustic  seat  made  by  setting 
in  the  ground  one  large  post  and  then  from  this  building  out 
like  the  bows  of  an  umbrella  for  the  roof,  with  seats  all 
around  the  foot  of  the  post.  This  makes  a  rather  unique 
but  attractive  appearance. 

A  great  variety  of  rustic  seats  can  be  made  to  place 
around  under  trees  and  in  shady  woods,  that  will  harmonize 
with  the  works  of  nature  much  better  than  anything  made 
from  manufactured  material,  and  which  will  not  cost  as 
much. 


Fig.  26. 


QHAPTm    XXI. 


ALTERATIONS  AND  ADDITIONS. — OLD  HOUSES  MADE  NEW. — 
CAUTION. IMPROVING  ROOFS  AND  GABLES. — REMODEL- 
ING WINDOWS. 


-»-o>*:o<>~ 


HEN  any  alterations  or  additions  are  contem- 
plated, they  should  receive  the  most  careful 
consideration  before  the  plans  are  put  into  ex- 
ecution ;  indeed,  in  many  cases  more  study  and 
good  judgment  are  often  required  to  success- 
fully carry  out  alterations  so  that  the  new  work 
will  harmonize  with  the  old,  than  to  plan  a  new 
*     building  of  equal  magnitude. 

It  not  unfrequently  happens  that  additions 
are  made  in  such  a  way  that  they  look  mis- 
placed, and  add '  nothing  to  the  appearance  of 
the  building.  Nor  is  this  all ;  it  should  be  more  definitely 
known  how  much  is  to  be  done,  and  how  much  it  is  to  cost, 
than  is  usually  the  case.  Frequently  the  matter  is  simply 
talked  over,  and  a  carpenter  set  to  work  by  the  day  to  tear 
down  and  build  up  without  any  definite  regard  as  to  when 
or  where  to  stop,  one  thing  after  another  calling  for  further 
alteration  until  the  cost  may  exceed  that  of  a  new  house. 

(149) 


150  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

This  is  the  experience  of  many,  and  should  be  carefully 
avoided  by  those  whose  means  are  limited,  and  whose  tastes 
are  sensitive;  for  cost  what  the  additions  may,  there  are 
always  left  reminders  of  the  old  house.  Our  advice,  where 
extensive  alterations  are  needed,  is  to  tear  down  the  old 
house,  and  utilize  the  material  as  far  as  possible  in  a  new 
one. 

The  services  of  an  architect  cannot  be  employed  to 
better  pecuniary  advantage  to  the  owner  than  in  giving' 
advice  and  making  plans  for  alterations  and  additions;  in 
fact,  his  services  are  almost,  if  not  quite,  indispensable  in 
such  work. 

Additions. 

In  chapter  XIII  of  this  work  will  be  found  some  practical 
illustrations  of  how  additions  can  be  made.  If  the  house  as 
originally  built  contemplated  additions,  little  trouble  will  be 
experienced  in  the  work,  especially  if  the  additions  are  in 
front  and  conceal  the  part  first  erected.  The  plan  then 
would  be  very  much  like  a  new  house  with  fewer  rooms. 

Bay-Windows. 

Bay-windows  can  usually  be  added  to  a  house  with 
good  effect  and  an  increase  of  comfort  to  the  inmates. 

The  wall  should  be  cut  out  the  height  and  breadth  de- 
sired, and  the  bay-window  built  out  from  the  house.  It  is 
best  to  arch  over  the  entrance  to  bay,  as  this  separates  the 
old  ceiling  from  the  new  and  counteracts  the  effect  of  con- 
trast  of  old  and  new  work. 

If  porticoes,  verandas,  cornice,  verge-boards,  or  brackets 
are  to  be  added,  great  care  must  be  used  to  make  the  out- 


ALTERATIONS  AND  ADDITIONS. 


151 


lines  of  old  and  new  work  blend,  as  it  frequently  happens 
that  such  additions  present  anything  but  a  harmonious 
appearance. 

It  is  frequently  desired  to  increase  the  number  of  rooms 
by  building  wings  or  rear  additions ;  but  unless  a  new  front 
is  added,  the  new  must  always  be  kept  subordinate  to  the 


oi< 


Fig.  28. 


If  additions  are  to  be  made  to  brick  buildings,  the  new 
wall  must  be  joined  to  the  old  by  cutting  a  vertical  groove 
in  the  old  wall  four  inches  deep,  and  broad  enough  to  receive 
the  brick  of  the  new  wall,  as  when  the  courses  of  the  new 
wall  are  locked  into  the  old,  brick  for  brick,  there  will  in- 
variably be  settlement  enough  in  the  new  to  break  every 
brick  at  the  point  of  intersection ;  hence  the  reason  for  con- 
necting by  a  groove  which  admits  of  settling  without 
breaking.  The  joints  of  courses  in  new  work  should  be 
laid  a  little  above  the  old  to  allow  for  settling. 


152 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


New  Roofs,  Gables,  etc. 

If  roofs  need  relaying,  where  the  building  is  good,  slate 
roofs  may  be  put  on  over  the  old  shingles  to  good  advantage, 
using  longer  nails  than  usual  to  secure  the  slate. 

If  the  building  is  old-fashioned,  a  marked  improvement 
can  be  made  by  taking  off  the  roof  and  giving  it  greater 
pit -h.  running  up  the  chimneys  and  giving  them  a  grace- 


Fig.  29. 


ful  finish;  and  putting  in  a  front  gable  v.'ith  neat  tracer)' 
and  brackets.  This  plan  can  be  carried  out  when  a  new 
roof  becomes  necessary,  and  its  effect  upon  the  general 
appearance  of  the  building  will  be  excellent,  and  if  iron 
cresting  is  put  on,  so  much  the  better. 


Fig.  27. 


J.  HESS,  Architect. 


ALTERATIONS  AND  ADDITIONS. 


153 


Improving  Windows. 

The  appearance  of  many  good,  substantial  houses,  espe- 
cially in  the  country,  is  positively  ruined  by  the  low,  square, 
unsightly,  small-light  windows.     This  can  be  remedied  at  a 


Fig-  30. 

very  light  expense  by  tearing  out  the  frames,  cutting  out 
from  the  top  to  the  desired  height  for  modern  windows,  and 
replacing  the  old  many-light  sash  with  new  ones  holding  not 
more  than  four  lights.  The  same  treatment  would  improve 
many  door-ways. 


154 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


The  alterations  that  will  be  necessary  depend  largely 
upon  the  construction  and  surroundings,  and  further  sug- 
gestions would  be  superfluous.  The  author,  however,  wishes 
to  again  caution  all  who  would  remodel  houses  against  the 
too  frequent  result  in  which  the  same  amount  expended 
would  have  secured  a  good,  comfortable,  new  house. 


Fi 


g-  3 


In  the  accompanying  cuts  are  represented  two  very 
attractive  designs  of  windows ;  one  has  a  neat  canopy  top 
with  curved  roof  and  verge- board  supported  on  brackets  on 
each  side  and  forming  a  fine  outline ;  while  at  the  bottom  of 
the  window  is  a  small  balcony  projecting  out  from  below 
the  sill,  with  a  railing  round  it,  and  this  too  resting  on 
brackets.    The  whole  combined  makes  a  pleasing  appearance. 


ALTERATIONS  AND  ADDITIONS. 


155 


The  other  cut,  Fig.  32,  has  no  canopy,  but  instead,  a  cap 
resting  on  brackets,  while  the  casings  on  each  side  run  down 
to  the  sill,  forming  a  graceful  outline.  This  also  has  a 
balcony  similar  to  the  other. 

The  window  first  described.  Fig.  31,  could  be  used  with 
good  effect  in  the  gables  of  many  wood  houses,  in  the  second 
story ;  the  other  one  is  better  adapted  to  a  full  second  story 
where  the  top  must  come  under  a  cornice,  as  it  does  not 
extend  up  so  far. 


Fig-  32. 


A  great  variety  of  forms  can  be  given  in  the  treatment 
of  windows;  and  in  fact,  aside  from  the  main  outline  of  the 
structure  itself,  nothing  has  more  to  do  with  the  general 
effect  of  the  outside  than  the  treatment  of  the  windows. 

Where  verandas  come  over  windows,  it  is  sometimes 
desirable  to  have  swing  sash,  usually  know  as  French  win- 
dows, opening  out  from  the  rooms.     These  are  very  pleasant 


156 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


in  summer,  but  must  be  protected  in  winter  by  storm  win- 
dows, as  the  swinging  of  the  sash  gives  greater  opportunity 
for  cold  to  coiue  in. 

Through  the  winter  it  is  often  economy  to  protect,  with 
a  double  sash,  windows  that  are  exposed  to  the  cold  winds. 
This  sash  is  made  all  in  one  piece,  and  fits  over  the  outside 
casing,  with  a  strip  of  narrow  felt  between  this  and  the 
sash,  and  secured  with  long  screws,  the  felt  effectually  keep- 
ing out  the  wind. 


Gfia;ptejr   XXff. 


OUTHOUSES. — SOME  PRACTICAL  SUGGESTIONS. — HOW  TO 
HAVE  ICE  ALL  THE  SUMMER. — AN  ICE-HOUSE  PRESERV- 
ATORY. — PLAN  FOR  A  CHEAP  BUT  EXCELLENT  FARM 
AND   CARRIAGE   BARN. 


3>KC 


T  frequently  happens  that  the  outhouses  of  a 
farm,  such  as  the  ice-house,  hennery,  etc.,  re- 
ceive but  little  attention. 

Some  farmers  utterly  neglect  walks  or  step- 
ping-stones to  the  barns  and  other  buildings, 
and  content  themselves  to  tramp  through  mud 
and  snow,  when  a  few  hours'  work  would  build 
a  substantial  walk  from  the  odds  and  ends  left 
in  erecting  the  barn.  Such  conveniences  really 
cost  but  a  trifle  compared  with  the  benefit  de- 
rived from  them. 


Ice-House. 

An  ice-house  properly  made  will  last  a  long  time  with 

but  little  attention;    and  in  the  country    where  ice  is  not 

supplied,  there  is  no  reason  why  the  milk-house,  meat  pre- 

servatory,    and  ice-house  should  not  be    combined  in    one. 

especially  where  a  running  stream  is  not  near  at  hand. 

[157] 


158 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Ice  can  be  preserved  in  simple,  double-walled  houses, 
with  the  space  between  filled  with  sawdust,  and  the  ice 
packed  in   closely  and    covered    well    with    sawdust.     The 


F'g-  33- 

accompanying  engraving  and  description  will,  however, 
give  a  better  idea  of  how  to  combine  the  ice-house  and 
preservatory. 

The  novel  feature  of  this  plan  is  the  placing  of  the  pre- 
servatory under  the  mass  of  ice,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  floor  made  of  plates  and  galvanized  iron.     It  is  thus 


FARM  AND  CARRIAGE  BARN.  ]:,0 

already  filled  with  cold  air  of  about  the  temperature  of  34° 
or  3G°.  The  temperature  is  communicated  to  the  preserva- 
tory  by  the  ice  acting  through  the  thin  floor  of  iron  plates. 
Fresh  air  may  be  introduced  from  the  sides  when  desirable, 
and  ventilation  is  secured  in  the  direction  indicated  by  the 
arrows,  between  the  outer  and  inner  walls.  The  iron  floor 
slopes  to  the  center,  where  the  drainage  is  completed  by  a 
pipe.  The  outer  wall  is  made  of  stone  or  brick,  next  comes 
an  air-space  eight  inches  wide,  then  a  wall  of  boards  filled 
in  with  sawdust.  The  current  of  warm  air  from  below  passes 
up  the  air-space,  through  holes  into  the  chamber  above  the 
ice,  and  out  at  the  roof.  The  rafters  are  double-boarded 
and  sawdust  placed  between  them  and  a  four-inch  air-space 
left  between  them  and  the  roof  ;  this  'secures  brisk  circula- 
tion of  air. 

If  the  ice-house  is  to  be  connected  with  the  dwelling,  the 
preservatory  may  be  entered  from  the  cellar  by  breaking  a 
door-way  through  the  wall  ;  if  apart  from  the  house,  unless 
a  side  hill  be  available,  some  steps  downward  will  be 
necessary. 

The  ice-house  should  be  wholly  above  ground,  but  the 
preservatory  partly  or  entirely  under,  as  shown  by  the  grade 
lines  on  side  of  cut. 

Farm  and  Carriage  Barn. 

There  are  many  farmers  owning  farms  of  from  fifty  to 
eighty  acres,  who  often  feel  the  need  of  a  carriage  barn,  yet 
do  not  feel  able  to  build  one  in  addition  to  their  other  farm 
buildings.  To  such  it  is  believed  this  design  of  a  farm  and 
carriage  barn  combined  will  be  acceptable. 

The  size  of  the  main  barn  is  30x60  ft.,  corner  posts  15 


ICO 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


ft.  high;  the  linter  or  back  part  containing  the  stables  and 
store-room  is  15x68  ft.,  with  corner  posts  9  ft.  high.  The 
shed  containing  the  pig-pen  and  hen-house  is  8x32  ft.,  and 


E^^J 


Gifl 


8  ft.  high.  The  grain  and  water  buckets  in  the  horse  stables 
are  filled  through  sliding  doors  opening  from  the  feed-room. 
The  hay-racks  should  be  of  hard  wood  or  iron,  and  filled 


FARM  AND  CARRIAGE  BARN. 


1(51 


from  the  mow  over  the  carriage  room.  The  granary  has 
capacity  for  three  hundred  bushels  of  grain,  and  the  whole 
barn  storage  room  sufficient  for  a  farm  of  sixty  acres. 


en 


The  following  is  the   descriptive  reference  to  the   cut: 
A,  threshing  and  entrance  flooi*,  ]  6x30  ft. ;  B,  carriage  and 

ll 


162 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


wagon  room,  22x24  ft. ;  C,  mow,  18x22  ft. ;  D,  horse  stables, 
15x22  ft. ;  E,  feed-room,  7x12  ft. ;  F,  stairs,  with  pump  (•) 
under  them;  G,  harness  closets;  H,  H,  H,  hay  racks  in 
horse  stables;  I,  I,  I,  I,  grain  and  water  buckets;  T,  store- 
room, 15x21  ft. ;  K,  tool-closet;  L,  work-bench ;  M,  passage- 
way, 4x30  ft. ;  N,  granary,  8x22  ft. ;  O,  cow  stables,  15x20 
ft. ;  P,  P,  P,  P,  mangers ;  R,  pig-pen ;  S,  sleeping-room ;  F, 
feed-trough;  U,  hennery;  V,  feed-box;  W,  perches  for 
hennery. 


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[163] 


WTVHB  following  chapters  are  designed  to  suggest  employ- 
ij^s)  ments  that  will  beautify  the  home,  and  in  many  iir- 
nfr*  stances  add  to  the  revenue  of  the  family,  and  above  all 
furnish  such  attractive  work  as  will  keep  the  boys  of 
the  family  at  home,  and  away  from  the  contaminating  influ- 
ences of  the  streets. 


QHAPTRR   jj# 


A    MANUAL    OF     FRET    SAWING. — PRACTICAL    LESSONS    WITH 
ILLUSTRATIONS. — FINISHING    UP    THE    WORK. — USE    OF 

SAWS. SAWING     METALS. USEFUL    ARTICLES. SAWS 

AND   THEIR   PRICES. 


aXKc 


HE  amateur  is  frequently  in  too  great  haste  to 
"make  a  bracket,"  and  does  not  give  sufficient 
time  for  practice ;  especially  is  this  the  case  with 
the  younger  ones,  and  for  this  reason  many  get 
discouraged.  The  true  way  to  be  successful  is 
to  follow  instructions  explicitly.  Ao  one  should 
attempt  to  do  a  nice  piece  of  work  until  he 
can  saiv  on  a  line,  or  circle,  or  cut  an  angle  with 
ease  and  precision;  for  this  practice  old  cigar 
boxes  are  the  cheapest  and  handiest. 

After  you  have  learned  to  follow  straight  and 
curved  lines,  the  next  and  only  difficult  point  to  learn  is  to 
turn  a  square  or  sharp  corner,  as  in  Lesson  I. 

Hoiv  to  Use  the  Scroll-Saw. — Amateurs  should  first  learn 
to  operate  treadle,  so  they  can  run  machine  and  talk  at  same 
time;  even  write  and  run  saw.  Having  accomplished  this, 
take  a  piece  of  cigar  box  or  other  thin  board,  make  straight 

ries] 


166  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

and  curved  lines  upon  it  (do  not  at  first  turn  round).  When 
you  have  made  the  marks,  place  the  board  close  to  the  saw, 
as  near  the  mark  as  possible,  with  your  hands  on  top  of  the 
board;  press  down  gently — not  hard,  but  always  down  and 
forward  at  an  even  speed,  not  by  fits  and  starts.  Keep  the 
hands  as  near  the  saw  as  possible.  Always  use  thin  lum- 
ber first,  and  saw  slowly;  as  you  learn  to  saw  you  can 
learn  to  use  machine  to  fullest  capacity.  To  saw  a  bracket 
or  any  other  piece  of  work,  always  place  the  pattern  on  the 
wood  so  that  the  grain  will  run  lengthwise  of  the  weaker 
parts. 

Lesson  I. — Commence  at  one  end  and  saw  up  to  a  sharp 
point;  now,  without  stopping  the  motion  of  the  saw,  you 
want  to  swing  the  piece  of  wood  around,  using  the  saw 
blade  as  a  fulcrum  for  the  center;  when  you  get  so  you  can 


Fig.  79- 

successfully  do  this  you  will  find  it  of  great  value  in 
executing  work  rapidly  and  nicely.  At  first  you  will  find 
it  a  little  difficult,  for  the  reason  that  you  do  not  turn  on  the 
actual  center  of  the  saw  blade ;  this  is  caused  by  your  press- 
ing the  wood  forward  slightly  while  you  are  turning  it;  now 
it  should  not  be  pressed  in  any  direction,  but  if  any  way  it 
should  be  held  back  a  little,  for  the  reason  that  it  would 
then  hit  the  back  of  the  saw  blade,  which  cannot  cut;  but 
this  will  be  overcome  by  practice. 

Lesson   II. — This  is  a   different   practice,  but   it  will 
require  no  special  instruction.     Carefully  follow  the  lines. 


HOW  TO  MAKE  BRACKETS. 


107 


Do  not  crowd  or  hurry  your  work.  In  case  the  saw  works 
hard,  occasionally  apply  a  little  soap  or  bees-wax  to  #the 
back  of  the  blade. 


Fig.  80. 

Lesson  III. — This  is  a  combination  of  the  line,  curve, 
and  angle,  but  differing  from  previous  lessons  in  this  respect: 
In  the  preceding  figures  our  object  was  to  preserve  the  outside 


F.g.   81. 


line,  in  this  we  preserve  the  inside.  First,  drill  a  small  hole  at 
a,  unscrew  the  upper  saw  fastener,  and  insert  the  blade 
through  the  hole.  Now  proceed  to  cut  out  the  design  as  al- 
ready described. 

Having  practiced  on  these  lessons  until  you  can  saw 
true,  either  on  a  line,  curve,  or  angle,  you  will  be  ready  to 
advance  another  step  in  this  fascinating  art. 

Lesson  IV. — Making  a  Bracket. — Having  selected  a 
good  piece  of  black-walnut  about  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
thick,  apply  to  it  the  design.  There  are  several  methods  for 
doing  this.  The  simplest  is  to  paste  the  design  directly  upon 
the  wood,  using  flour  paste.  After  the  sawing  is  done,  the 
paper  can  be  removed  by  moistening  with  water,  but  it  is 
much  better  to  be  careful  in  putting  the  paste  on,  and  only 
put  it  on  the  part  you  throw  away.     You  can  also  secure  the 


168  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

design  to  the  wood  with  small  tacks,  driven  into  the  parts 
of  the  wood  to  come  away.  Another  good  way:  Pro- 
cure a  sheet  of  "  impression  paper,  ".lay  the  paper  on  the  wood, 
place  the  design  over  it;  take  an  instrument  with  a  fine,  hard 


•  .     ■  1   r     .  m 


Fig.  82. 

point,  and  trace  around  the  design.  On  removing  the  impres- 
sion paper,  the  design  will  be  seen  neatly  copied  on  the  wood. 

It  is  better  to  cut  away  inside  work  first.  Drill  holes  in 
every  part  which  requires  cutting  away ;  this  done,  place  the 
wood,  with  the  design  upward,  on  the  saw  table.  The  inside 
of  the  design  being  complete,  remove  the  outside  in  the 
same  manner.  Having  finished  the  various  parts  of  the 
bracket,  it  is  ready  for  finishing. 

Smoothing  off  Work. — Take  a  small,  half-round  file,  and 
file  the  corners  true,  and  straighten  all  edges.  Take  sand-pa- 
per and  rub  the  bracket  carefully.  Under  edges  will  be  found 
ragged,  but  sand-paper  will  make  them  smooth.  When  a 
number  of  thicknesses  are  sawed,  this  is  obviated. 

Putting  Work  together. — Small  brads  or  screws  can  be 
used;  if  the  bracket  is  quite  small,  glue  alone  is  sufficient. 
In  case  the  bracket  is  intended  to  carry  some  weight,  use 
screws. 


IX LAYING  AND  OVERLAYING.  169 

Oil. — For  oiling,  boiled  linseed  oil  should  be  used. 
Apply  to  wood,  and  when  it  is  absorbed,  rub  over  with  a 
stiff  brush  or  soft  paper. 

Shellac. — Take  half -pint  bottle  of  alcohol,  fill  about  one- 
quarter  full  of  bleached  shellac  in  small  pieces.  After 
standing  several  hours  this  will  be  dissolved  and  ready  for 
use.  Apply  to  the  wood  with  fine  sponge  or  cotton.  It 
dries  so  very  quickly  that  several  coats  can  be  applied  in  a 
few  moments. 

Varnish  is  frequently  used,  but  it  does  not  give  the  wood 
as  pretty  an  appearance  as  oil  or  shellac.  If  used,  it  must  be 
applied  lightly  and  evenly.  There  are  several  kinds,  vary- 
ing in  color  which  must  be  used  according  to  the  color  of  the 
wood. 

Polish. — To  polish  well  requires  practice,  care,  and 
patience,  and  we  would  not  advise  amateurs  to  undertake  the 
work  unless  they  are  desirous  of  so  doing.  Prepared  French 
polish  is  generally  for  sale  at  paint  stores.  In  the  first  place, 
see  that  the  wood  is  smooth.  Use  fine  sand-paper,  and  be 
sure  to  remove  every  scratch.  Having  obtained  the  polish, 
— light  or  dark,  according  to  color  of  the  wood, — soak  small 
bits  of  tow  or  cotton  wool  in  the  polish,  and  apply  evenly 
to  the  wood ;  add  more  polish  to  cotton  wool,  but  before  ap- 
plying to  the  wood  place  it  inside  a  piece  of  linen  rag,  on 
which  put  a  drop  or  two  of  sweet  oil — this  prevents  the  rag 
from  sticking;  rub  the  wood  again,  giving  a  circular  mo- 
tion to  the  rag;  repeat  the  supply  of  polish  and  oil  as  re1 
quired,  until  the  surface  is  uniformly  polished. 

Marquetry  or  Inlaying  is  a  fascinating  part  of  scroll 
sawing,  and  is  destined  to  become  more  popular.  At  first 
thought  it  may  seem  difficult  to  inlay  one  piece  of  wood 
into  another,  but  the  process  is  simple  when  you  know  how. 


170  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

For  our  first  lesson  we  will  take  a  clover  leaf,  and  inlay- 
black- walnut  into  white  holly. 

Take  two  pieces  of  wood,  each  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  walnut  and  holly ;  fasten  them  together,  either  with 


Fig.  83.  Fig.  84. 

common  shoe  pegs  or  screws.  Let  the  walnut  remain  on  top ; 
secure  the  design  to  wood;  drill  a  small  hole  for  the  saw 
blade,  the  same  as  in  fret  sawing,  in  which  insert  blade  (No. 
0) ;  saw  with  your  work  on  the  right  of  saw  blade.  From 
the  picture  you  will  readily  see  how  the  dark  piece  of  wood 
will  drop  down  and  fit  into  the  light.  If  the  bevel  is  just 
right  it  will  leave  the  work  smooth  with  no  gaps.  Having 
cut  out  the  clover  leaf,  you  can  secure  it  in  its  place.  Glue 
around  the  edges  of  the  leaf,  insert  quickly  in  the  holly,  and 
let  it  harden  under  pressure.  Finish  off  the  work  with  sand- 
paper. 

Overlaying. — When  the  amateur  has  become  master  of 
his  saw,  so  that  he  can  saw  delicate  and  intricate  work,  he 
should  do  overlaid  work,  as  this  is  very  neat  and  a  change 
from  other  work.  Ordinary  flat  picture-frames  can  be  over- 
laid with  vines  and  fine  tracery.  Here  is  an  instance  where 
glue  becomes  very  useful,  for  one  can  fasten  overlaid  work 
on  finished  wood,  where  ordinarily  it  requires  escutcheon 
pins,  but  all  know  it  is  not  pleasant  to  drive  them  in  light 
and  frail  work.  Very  pretty  photograph  frames  are  made 
by  taking  a  pine  board  and  sawing  an  oval  out  of  the  center 
and  covering  the  pine  with  velvet.     Fasten  the  overlaying  on 


SILHOUETTES  —SAND-PAPERING.  171 

velvet.  Designs  for  overlaying,  such  as  vines  or  clusters  of 
flowers,  a  head  or  any  other  ornament,  can  be  procured  of 
almost  any  dealer ;  but  a  great  many .  pretty  designs  for 
this  work  can  be  obtained  in  such  books  as  the  Ladies'  Book 
and  Harper's  Bazaar. 

Silhouettes. — Few  articles  made  with  the  scroll-saw  are 
more  ornamental  than  Silhouettes.  Many  designs  can  be 
found  in  books  for  children.  They  should  be  cut  from  ma- 
terial one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick,  or  from  veneers.  Black 
and  white  are  favorite  colors,  or  ebony  and  white  holly.  It  re- 
quires a  tough  wood.  The  finest  and  best  saws  should  be  used. 
When  veneers  are  used,  they  should  be  placed  between  two 
pieces  of  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  each,  and  fastened 
firmly.  Silhouettes  are  used  in  various  wa}Ts,  by  overlaying: 
on  polished  wood  or  paper  placed  on  a  board  for  a  back- 
ground. If  you  possess  a  treadle  machine,  you  can  make 
decorations  for  your  wall,  or  even  make  a  nice  border. 
Paste  a  very  dark  strip  around  for  the  border,  then  procure 
white  holly  veneer  and  saw  out  a  variety  of  patterns — you 
can  saw  one-half  dozen  or  more  at  one  time.  Glue  them  on 
the  dark  border,  each  equal  distances  apart.  If  you  wish  to 
saw  a  perfect  likeness  of  one  of  the  family  or  a  friend,  place 
a  piece  of  paper  on  the  wal],  and  with  a  strong  light  throw  a 
shadow  on  the  paper;  now  with  a  pencil  trace  the  features, 
and  with  a  pantagraph  reduce  to  any  size  you  wish.  With 
a  little  practice  you  can  do  excellent  work.  You  can  dec- 
orate an  easel  you  wish  to  give  to  a  friend  with  his  own 
likeness,  by  obtaining  it  in  this  way  and  reducing  as  stated, 
placing  the  picture  on  wood,  saw  it  out  and  overlay  the  ob- 
ject to  be  given  away. 

Sand-Papering. — To  sand-paper  flat  surfaces,   alway 


172  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

use  a  block.  Take  two  pieces  of  pine,  three  by  four  inches, 
and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick ;  through  one  of  them  put 
a  few  slender  screws,  just  long  enough  to  come  through  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch ;  file  these  points  sharp,  take  a  piece  of 
sand-paper  four  inches  wide  and  seven  and  one-half  long,  lay 
one  end  on  the  screw  points,  press  the  paper  over  them,  place 
another  block  on  this,  and  fasten  the  two  together  with 
screws ;  two  sets  of  blocks  are  best,  one  for  fine,  the  other 
for  coarse,  paper;  lay  the  work  on  a  bench,  hold  the  board 
with  one  hand  and  rub  with  the  other,  giving  it  a  circular 
motion,  and  move  rapidly ;  begin  with  No.  I,  finish  with  No. 
oo.  Another  good  way  for  small  work :  Lay  the  whole  sheet 
of  paper  on  a  bench  or  level  board,  turn  the  piece  to  be  sand- 
papered down  on  it  and  rub.  Small  work  can  be  done 
nicely  in  this  way. 

Fret  Sawing  in  Metals,  Shell,  Pearl,  and  Ivory. 

Brass,  gold,  silver,  shell,  ivory,  and  pearl  can  also  be  used 
by'Fret  Sawyers,  many  beautiful  and  useful  ornaments  being- 
produced  by  them.  It  is  not  generally  known,  but  is  a  fact, 
that  brass,  tin,  zinc,  and  other  composition  metals,  can  be 
cut  with  the  bracket  saw  almost  as  easily  as  wood. 

In  sawing  out  thin  metals,  or  thin  and  brittle  substances, 
the  article  to  be  sawed  should  be  placed  between  two  thin 
pieces  of  walnut.  The  design  can  be  placed  on  the  wood  as 
ordinarv  work,  and  the  wood  and  metal  sawed  through  at  the 
same  time.  By  this  means  very  delicate  work  can  be  wrought, 
as  the  wood  forms  a  support  for  the  thin  metal.  No  matter 
how  fine  the  lines  may  be,  or  how  intricate  the  work,  with  a 
steady  hand  and  keen  eye  the  saw  will  cut  hair  lines  as 
well  as  coarse  ones. 

For  metal  sawing,  only  the  best  blades  should  be  used. 


MAKING  ESCUTCHEONS  AND  HINGES.  .'7:? 

Nos.  I,  O,  and  00  are  most  desirable.  In  this  manner,  ear- 
rings and  various  articles  of  jewelry  and  ornament  may  be 
produced. 

Beautiful  ornaments  can  also  be  cut  from  brass,  silver, 
ivory,  etc.,  for  inlaying  into  woods  of  contrasting  colors. 
Sheet  brass,  copper,  and  other  metals  can  be  procured  of 
various  thicknesses.  A  silver  coin  can  be  hammered  quite 
thin  and  flat.  With  the  fret-saw  this  can  be  worked  up 
into  articles  of  jewelry,  or  for  inlaying  purposes.  Silver  in- 
layed  into  ebony  is  very  beautiful. 

Hard,  vulcanized  India-rubber  is  manufactured  in 
sheets  about  two  feet  square,  and  is  sold  by  the  pound.  It 
can  be  easily  cut,  and  is  very  attractive  and  convenient  to 
use  for  jewelry,  card-baskets,  etc.  Even  a  handsome  clock 
case  can  be  made  from  this  material.  When  sawing  rubber, 
frequently  place  a  little  oil  on  the  blade,  to  reduce  friction. 

In  putting  nice  work  together,  it  is  of  importance  to  do 
it  well,  as  good  work  can  be  easily  spoiled.  Hinges  can  be 
had  at  most  stores,  but  they  are  usually  too  plain  for  fine 
work,  and  we  propose  to  show  how  an  ornamental  hinge 
can  be  made  by  means  of  the  fret-saw.  Sheet  brass,  copper, 
or  other  metals,  can  easily  be  procured  of  various  thicknesses. 
The  best  suited  for  this  purpose  will  range  from  -^  to  -^  of 
an  inch.  Upon  a  piece  of  metal,  the  requisite  size,  trace, 
with  a  fine  awl  point,  the  design  you  have  selected.  Saw  out 
the  design,  and  leave  flange  sufficient  to  form  a  turn  or  socket, 
where  the  two  parts  of  hinge  are  to  be  united  by  a  pin.  This 
flange  will  at  first  be  straight,  but  by  using  a  pair  of  small  pli- 
ers and  working  it  with  a  light  hammer  around  a  steel  wire 
fully  as  large  as  the  diameter  of  the  pin,  it  will  take  a  tubular 
shape.    To  the  other  half  of  the  hinge  there  will  be,  of  course, 


174 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


two  more  flanges  to  be  made  in  the  same  way.  The  pin 
should  be  fitted  as  true  as  possible  in  order  that  the  hinge 
may  open  and  shut  easily.     The  hinges  should  be  fastened 


Fig.  86. 


Fig.  87. 


on  with  small  wire  pins,  holes  of  proper  size  being   drilled 


through  the  metal  and  wood. 


Fig.  83. 


Fig.  89. 


Fig.  90.  Fig.  91. 


Escutcheons  for  key-hole  ornaments  can  also  be  cut  from 
brass  and  other  metals.     A  few  styles  are  shown  above. 


HAND  SCROLL,  OR  FRET  SA  WS.  \  75 

Many  other  small  articles  from  metals  can  be  cut  out  with 
the  saw.  We  illustrate  two  very  useful  ones.  They  are 
metal  loops  for  suspending  clock  cases,  picture-frames, 
brackets,  etc.  For  this,  sheet  brass  is  used.  As  nail-heads 
vary  in  size,  the  hole  by  which  the  loop  is  passed  over  the 
nail  should  be  sufficiently  roomy  for  the  largest-sized  pict- 
ure-nail. Fret-work  boxes  can  be  still  further  ornamented 
by  means  of  corner  braces  cut  in  neat  designs  from  brass. 
These  can  be  cut  in  pairs  by  following  the  directions  already 
given. 

Saws,  Lathes,  Prices,  Etc. 

Some  of  the  higher  priced  scroll  sawing  machines,  have 
a  turning  lathe  attachment,  and  are  equipped  with  a  com- 
plement of  chisels  and  gouges,  by  means  of  which  many 
useful  and  ornamental  articles  can  be  easily  turned.  Some 
also  have  a  buzz-saw  attachment,  a  dovetailing  attachment, 
a  molding  attachment,  and  buffing  and  polishing  attach- 
ments, so  that  they  are  adapted  to  a  great  variety  of  work. 

The  cost  of  a  scroll  sawing  machine  varies  from  three  to 
twenty-five  dollars.  With  most  machines,  from  six  to 
twelve  saw  blades  are  given  when  it  is  purchased.  The 
saw  blades  cost  from  ten  to  seventy-five  cents  each,  or  from 
$1.20  to  $6.00  per  dozen,  according  to  size.  We  present 
herewith  a  cut  of  a  scroll  sawing  machine,  to  which  any  of 
the  above-mentioned  attachments  can  be  made. 

Hand  Scroll  or  Fret  Saws. 

Persons  who  do  not  wish  to  go  to  the  expense  of  a  scroll 
or  fret  sawing  machine,  but  who  desire  to  do  ornamental 
work  in  the  making  of  brackets,  or  picture  frames,  or  in- 


176 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


laying  work,  can  procure  small  hand  scroll  or  fret  saws  at 
an  expense  of  only  a  dollar  or  two  at  the  most.  These  saws 
will  do  most  of  the  work  that  can  be  done  by  a  machine, 
but  of  course  it  cannot  be  done  as  quickly.  Marquetry  or 
inlaying  work  may  be  done  equally  as  well,  and  perhaps 


Fig.  92. 

better,  by  the  hand  scroll-saws.  With  these  saws  are 
usually  furnished  several  blades  and  a  number  of  designs. 
They  may  be  procured  at  hardware  stores  where  scroll 
sawing  machines  are  kept,  or  of  manufacturers. 

An  ingenious  boy  with  a  few  simple  tools  and  an  old 
sewing-machine  table,  could  soon  transform  one  of  the  above 
hand  machines  into  an  effective  foot-power  saw. 


II, 


THE   ART    OF  WOOD    CARVING. — ITS    ORIGIN   AND    HISTORY. 

THE    TOOLS    AND     THEIR    USES. ORNAMENTS    THAT    MAY 

BE    MADE. — HOW    AMATEURS     MAY     LEARN    THE    ART. 

DIRECTIONS    FOR    FIRST    ATTEMPTS. 


-x>XKc 


OOD  CARVING.— Within  the  past  few  years 
much  attention  has  been  given  to  carving  on 
wood  as  a  pastime  and  useful  recreation.  This 
is  probably  the  oldest  branch  of  Art  within  the 
knowledge  of  man.  Apparently,  the  first  weapon 
was  a  club,  and  the  first  attempt  at  decoration 
was  some  scratching  or  carving  on  it.  Among 
the  Ancient  Egyptians,  Greeks,  and  Romans,  it 
was  much  practiced.  As  a  branch  of  Christian 
Art  it  was  one  of  the  earliest,  and  attained  a 
high  development  in  the  fifteenth  century,  as  is 
attested  by  the  elaborate  carvings  in  many  of  the  old 
cathedrals  in  Europe.  It  greatly  declined  during  the  last 
century  or  two,  but  has  again  revived,  and  promises  to 
attain  great  importance.  The  Swiss  are  noted  for  their 
high  attainments  in  the  art  of  wood  carving,  as  they  are  in 
their  ornamental   scroll   sawing,  and  it  is  perhaps  to  them 


that  we  owe  the  revival  of  this  art  in  America. 

la 


[177] 


178  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Carving  in  wood  is  an  elegant  and  useful  art,  and  is 
easily  learned.  Of  course,  elaborate  work  is  not  easily  done; 
but  many  articles  of  utility  and  adornment  may  be  carved 
by  any  boy  or  girl  with  only  ordinary  mechanical  ability. 
It  is  said  that  whittling  is  natural  to  Americans.  Carving 
is  only  a  higher  grade  of  whittling,  in  which  the  jackknife 
gives  place  to  the  chisel  and  the  gouge.  It  would  astonish 
most  people  to  be  shown  what  may  be  done  with  these 
simple  tools.  For  not  only  may  elegant  trifles,  such  as 
brackets,  book  rests,  bread  plates,  paper  knives,  picture- 
frames,  etc.,  be  made  by  the  home  carver,  but  chairs,  tables, 
side  boards,  bedsteads,  and  other  domestic  articles  may  be 
ornamented  in  this  way. 

That  woman  may  excel  in  doing  carved  work,  was 
shown  by  the  work  of  the  Cincinnati  Carving  Club,  exhib- 
ited at  the  Centennial.  What  has  been  done  by  these  ladies 
may  be  done  by  other  ladies.  It  is  here  worthy  of  note  that 
carving  clubs  are  forming  all  over  the  country,  and  thereby 
stimulating  hundreds  to  acquire  this  elegant  and  useful  art. 
To  aid  such  as  may  wish  to  learn  the  rudiments  of  carving, 
we  have  prepared  the  following  lessons. 

The  Use  of  Tools. 

The  first  lesson  of  the  amateur  is  to  learn  the  use  of  the 
three  principal  tools, — the  flat  chisel,  gouge,  and  veining  tool. 
(See  tools  2,  3,  and  4,  next  figure.) 

For  this  lesson  take  a  block  of  whitewood,  or  any  soft 
wood,  six  inches  long  by  two  or  three  broad  and  one  and  a 
half  thick.  Secure  it  firmly  to  a  bench;  then,  with  the  flat 
chisel,  carve  the  beveled  edges  and  make  the  miters  perfect. 
Now  take  the  veining  tool,  No.  3,  which  cuts  a  V-shaped 
groove,  and  carve  out  the  design,  as  given  on  the  next  page. 


PRA CTICA L  IXSTRFCTK >N. 


17!) 


In  using  this  tool,  it  must  be  held  in  the  right  hand  and 
in  a  slanting  direction.  The  left  hand  should  be  hollowed 
and  placed  on  the  tool,   the  wrist  and  tips  of    the   fingers 


5  U 


Fig.  93- 

resting  upon  the  work.  This  steadies  the  right  hand  and 
prevents  the  tool  from  slipping  forward.  Now  use  the 
gouge,  and  carve  out  the  circular  depression  which  may  be 


Fig.  94- 

seen  in  the  design.      Practice  on  this  lesson  until  you  can 
carve  the  design  accurately. 


DESIGNS  FOR  WOOD  CARVING. 


HINTS  TO  AMATEURS.  181 

It  is  necessary,  in  order  to  carry  on  wood  carving,  to  pro- 
cure a  strong  table  of  deal  or  other  wood,  the  stronger  and 
heavier  it  is  the  better,  as  nails  must  be  driven  into  it,  and 
holes  bored.  It  must  stand  firm  and  solid  and  in  a  good 
light.  The  first  attempt  must  necessarily  be  a  simple  oik;, 
and  perhaps  an  ivy-leaf  is  the  easiest  representation  that  can 
be  attempted.  Choose  a  piece  of  pine  wood  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  free  from  knots,  and  perfectly 
dry  and  well  seasoned ;  old  pieces  such  as  may  be  found 
stored  away  in  many  houses  would  answer  well  for  be- 
ginners. 

A  sketch  of  the  leaf  to  be  carved  must  first  be  drawn 
upon  paper,  the  back  of  which  is  then  rubbed  with  red 
chalk  or  other  coloring  matter  at  hand.  This  paper  is  then 
pinned  upon  the  wood,  and  the  outlines  of  the  leaf  pressed 
over  with  some  blunt  instrument,  such  as  a  crochet-needle  or 
pin-head,  and  upon  removing  the  paper  the  outline  will  be 
found  upon  the  wood.  Deficiencies  in  the  outline  must  be 
corrected  in  pencil,  or,  if  hard  wood  is  used,  in  pen  and  ink. 
Then  follows  the  first  process,  known  as  stabbing  out,  which 
is  done  by  holding  the  chisel  upright  and  pressing  directly 
downward  along  the  outline  of  the  leaf.  After  the  design  is 
thus  distinctly  outlined  into  the  wood,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
deepen  the  depression  made  by  the  chisel,  by  running  the 
curved  gouge  round  the  edge  until  a  groove  about  the  six- 
teenth of  an  inch  deep  is  made.  The  next  work  is  to  cut 
away  the  wood,  and  this  recpjires  caution. 

Until  the  operator  thoroughly  understands  how  to  cut 
with  or  against  the  grain  of  the  wood,  he  should  remove  as 
little  wood  as  possible.  In  clearing  the  wood  between  the 
outlines,  it  is  best  to  work  across  the  grain,  and  to  begin 


182        OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

cutting  out  the  wood  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the 
outline,  shaving  very  gradually  toward  it,  relieving  the  wood 
at  each  cut,  and  .setting  the  leaf  free.  This  work  should  be 
done  very  carefully  until  the  wood  is  entirely  removed  be- 
tween the  pattern  edges,  leaving  the  pattern  in  relief,  care 
being  taken  always  to  cut  thoroughly  and  never  to  tear  or 
dig  the  wood.  An  experienced  carver  remarks:  (>  Leave  no 
rags,  jags,  or  fragments;  clear  out  completely  every  angle 
and  corner;  get  your  work  as  smooth  as  possible  with  what- 
ever tool  you  may  be  using,  and  let  every  stroke  of  your 
chisel  or  gouge  be  regulated  by  design.  By  following  these 
rules,  by  cutting  slowly  and  carefully,  a  little  at  a  time,  by 
holding  the  tools  firmly  and  leaving  the  pattern  sloping  out- 
ward to  be  finished,  the  amateur  will  be  surprised  at  the  re" 
suits  obtained  after  a  little  practice." 

The  midribs  of  the  various  lobes  of  the  leaf  next  demand 
attention.  These  must  first  be  stabbed  out,  as  in  the  outline? 
and  then  the  surface  of  the  lobe  must  be  slanted  down  to 
them  from  side  to  side.  The  second  stage  is  but  a  repetition 
of  the  first  process,  the  ground  being  uniformly  lowered,  and 
then  the  appearance  of  the  leaf  claims  consideration.  "  Cer- 
tain portions  of  the  surface  must  be  lowered  to  present  an 
appearance  of  reality,"  some  portions  remaining  at  their  or- 
iginal elevation,  others  being  cut  or  shaved  away  to  present 
an  undulating  surface.  Here  a  knowledge  of  art  is  useful 
in  suggesting  the  proper  distribution  of  light  and  shade, 
which  must  be  conveyed  by  the  ingenious  use  of  the  gouges 
of  different  degrees  of  curvature.  No  artificial  means  should 
be  used  for  smoothing  or  leveling  the  unequal  appearance  of 
the  carved  surface,  but  it  should  remain  as  the  tools  leave  it. 

The  study  of  natural  leaves  is  very  important  in  carving, 
for  by  this  means  a  knowledge  of  the  different  fibers  in  va- 
rious leaves  is  acquired,  and  wood  carving,  from  being  a 
merely  mechanical  amusement,  becomes  in  reality  an  art. 


dpiAFTKR    IK. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

GENERAL  RULES  AND  OBSERVATIONS  APPLICABLE  TO  THE 
IMPROVEMENT  OF  SMALL  LOTS  FROM  ONE-SIXTEENTH 
TO  ONE-HALF  ACRE  IN  AREA. — ERRORS  OF  COMMON  OC- 
CURRENCE.— STYLE  OF  GARDENING. — EXPOSURE  AND 
LOCATION. — GRADING   AND   TERRACING. 


-o-oXKoo- 


EFORE  entering  upon  details  as  to  the  best 
methods  of  improvement,  and  as  a  fruitful  source 
of  awakening  attention  to  the  subject,  it  has 
seemed  best  to  enumerate  some  of  the  more  no- 
ticeable faults,  most  of  which  may  be  seen  upon 
any  street  of  half  a  mile  in  length  in  any  but 
the  most  wealthy  portions  of  our  cities  and  vil- 
lages, in  the  hope  that  the  reader  may  the  better 
analyze  his  premises,  if  already  improved,  or 
jmard  against  these  defects  when  about  to  make 
for  himself  a  home  in  the  future.  Chief  among 
these  faults  may  be  named  the  following — 


Errors  to  Be  Avoided. 

1 .  Houses  too  near  the  street. 

2.  Too  many  trees  inside  the  yard. 


[183] 


184  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

3.  Too  much  shade  about  the  house. 

4.  The  use  of  improper  trees,  considering  the  style  of 
architecture  employed,  as  well  as  the  use  of  such  trees  as 
have  the  disagreeable  habit  of  suckering,  or  sending  up 
sprouts,  or  that  produce  unsightly  blossoms,  or  food  for 
"horrid  worms."  as  ladies  say. 

5.  The  use  of  improper  colors  upon  fences  and  build- 
ings,— colors  that  do  not  harmonize  with  each  other,  nor 
with  the  things  that  nature  furnishes  in  that  locality. 

6.  The  want  of  care  necessary  to  keep  a  place  tidy  and 
neat. 

7.  The  destruction  of  lawns  by  the  use  of  too  many  and 
too  great  a  variety  of  things  in  small  places. 

8  The  use  of  too  many  styles  of  fence  upon  the  same 
block,  out  of  proportion  as  to  parts,  some  having  too  small 
posts,  some  being  too  low,  others  too  high,  together  with 
numberless  other  defects,  which  we  shall  mention  in  connec- 
tion with  each  subject  of  which  we  shall  speak  hereafter. 

How  to  Begin. 

But  lest  the  want  of  space  forbids  our  going  suffi- 
ciently into  details  upon  all  these  topics,  it  may  not  be  amiss 
to  remind  the  reader  that  imitation  is  one  of  the  most  fruit- 
ful sources  of  advancement.  Look  about  you,  and  when 
you  see  a  thing  that  looks  pleasing  and  tasty  and  suited  to 
your  means,  strive  to  copy  it.  Take  notes  and  measure- 
ments in  detail,  for  it  is  the  minute  features  that  produce 
the  perfect  whole.  Do  not  allow  yourself  to  guess  at  the 
size  of  a  fence  post  or  the  height  of  the  fence,  the  width  of  a 
walk,  or  the  distance  trees  are  planted  apart,  etc.,  etc.,  unless 
you  know  your  taste  is  good  in  regard  to  such  matters. 


IMPROVING  SMALL  LOTS.  185 

Many  a  man  can  appreciate  good  music,  still  he  may  not  be 
able  to  utter  a  musical  sound;  and  so  in  the  adornment  of 
In  lines,  most  can  admire,  but  few  can  create  them  independ- 
ently, and  hence  must  be  governed  by  rules  or  samples. 

Or,  better  still,  if  you  are  able,  get  some  person  skilled 
in  such  things  to  furnish  a  plan,  or  at  least  give  some  sug- 
gestions that  you  may  profit  by  when  improvements  are 
commenced. 

Things  to  Be  Attained. 

The  improvement  of  city  or  village  lots  that  do  not  ex- 
ceed a  half-acre  in  extent  is  quite  a  simple,  easy  matter 
if  you  have  carefully  noted  all  the  errors  spoken  of  in  the 
preceding  pages,  so  that  you  are  sure  not  to  commit  any  of 
them,  in  which  case,  the  work  is  already  half  done. 

Simplicity  and  Neatness 

Are  the  two  main  things  to  be  sought  in  these  little  places, 
and  since  they  can  only  be  considered  as  one  part  or  feature 
of  larger  places,  no  attempt  to  embody  everything  that 
could  be  attained  upon  a  lot  containing  five  or  more  acres 
will  ever  give  pleasure  or  satisfaction  within  the  limits  of  a 
small  lot.  The  best  that  can  be  done  is  to  secure  one  fine 
piece  of  lawn ;  a  few  choice  flowers,  not  attempting  to  raise 
all  that  are  named  in  the  floral  catalogues ;  and  a  few  very 
fine,  small  growing  trees  and  shrubs,  in  place  of  those  of 
larger  growth  that  are  suitable  for  extensive  lawns,  together 
with  only  such  walks  as  are  necessarily  traveled  in  going  to 
and  from  the  house  to  the  approach,  out-buildings,  or  flower 
garden,  if  one  is  kept  at  all;  this  last  being  of  doubtful 
propriety  within  such  narrow  limits.  Hence,  use  only  small 
ornaments  for  small  yards,  and  thus  form  a  picture  perfect 


186  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

in  all  its  parts,  but  taken  in  miniature.     But  at  present  we 
will  consider  some  things  that  more  properly  come  first. 

Style  of  Gardening  Used. 

In  general,  only  the  "formal  "  or  "geometric  "  style  can 
be  applied  within  narrow  limits.  There  is  no  room  to  make 
curved  walks  and  flowing  outlines,  rockeries,  cascades,  lakes, 
and  other  things  that  belong  to  the  natural  style.  A  mixed 
style  might  properly  be  adopted  upon  a  good-sized  lot,  pro- 
viding care  is  taken  in  locating  the  house  and  out-buildings, 
having  a  side  entrance  to  the  former,  and  having  the  latter 
so  placed  in  the  rear  that  a  curved  walk  could  be  started 
from  the  proper  place  for  an  entrance  to  the  yard,  passing 
the  door  of  the  house,  thence  on  toward  the  places  that  it  be- 
comes necessary  to  visit  about  every  home.  No  abrupt  turns 
would  be  admissible,  for  nothing  of  the  "picturesque"  can 
ever  be  tolerated  here,  not  even  rough  rustic  chairs  and 
things  of  like  nature.  On  account  of  their  nearness  to  the 
dwelling,  all  architectural  ornaments  or  manufactured  arti- 
cles  should  conform  to,  and  be  in  harmony  with,  the  style  of 
the  house,  which  is  the  leading  feature  in  these  small  lots. 
It  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general  rule  that  things  brought 
into  close  contact  should  either  produce  harmony  of  design 
by  happy  contrasts,  the  one  being  a  natural  and  the  other 
an  artificial  object,  or  else  be  of  similar  nature  and  the  same 
style.  Do  not  use  gothic  vases  and  other  architectural  orna- 
ments in  connection  with  a  house  in  Grecian  or  Roman  style. 

The  Exposure  or  Location. 

Of  course  we  do  not  expect  all  can  obtain  the  most  de- 
sirable places,  and  many  of  the  readers  have  already  pur- 


THE  EXPOSURE  OB  LOCATION.  18y 

chased  and  perhaps  built;  but  it  is  proper  to  speak  of  these 
features,  and  then  each  can  apply  them  so  far  as  his  purse 
or  premises  will  allow. 

First,  then,  in  cities  or  villages  where  the  streets  are  sun; 
to  be  graded  sooner  or  later,  a  medium  elevation  should  be 
selected,  being  most  likely  to  conform  best  to  the  level  of  the 
grade  of  the  street  when  established.  Of  all  locations,  a 
southeast  corner  lot  in  the  block  is  the  most  desirable,  con- 
sidering the  means  of  access  to  barns,  out-buildings,  etc.,  and 
the  bringing  in  contact  of  the  most  protected,  or  least  in- 
clement s'.des  of  the  house  for  an  entrance,  and  the  most 
easily  sheltered  portions  of  the  grounds  for  a  lawn  or 
ornamental  purposes.  Next  to  this  would  be  the  corner 
opposite  on  the  south,  being  the  northeast,  which  does  very 
well  by  placing  the  house  near  the  road  on  the  north,  and 
having  a  bay-window  or  veranda  opening  toward  the  south 
jji.de,  where  the  lawn  should  be,  as  before.  Next  to  these 
two,  we  would  choose  an  inside  lot  on  the  west  side  of  the 
north  and  south  road,  or  the  north  side  of  the  east  and  west 
road.  But  should  you  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  get  the  less 
desirable  locations,  it  might  justify  more  planting  for  shelter 
in  front,  and  perhaps  pure  white  houses  with  green  blinds, 
together  with  a  location  less  distant  from  the  street  than  we 
shall  recommend  in  our  directions  upon  that  subject,  mak- 
ing the  ornamental  part  of  the  yard  partly  to  the  warm 
side,  01  even  behind  the  house  if  desired. 

Of  course,  good  neighborhoods,  good  views,  nearness  to 
churches,  schools,  and  places  of  business,  although  not 
strictly  belonging  to  the  subject  of  ornamental  gardening, 
should  always  be  considered,  as  also  good  water,  means  of 
drainage,  distance  from  noisy,  smoky,  or  unhealthful  man- 
ufacturing   establishments,   or  cess-pools,  etc.     Get  started 


188  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

right  if  possible,  and  then  half  the  work  is  saved;  verifying 
the  adage.  "  Well  begun  is  half  done." 

The  Style  of  House  to  be  Built, 

Although  not  properly  belonging  to  this  subject,  needs  great 
care  in  its  selection.  Nothing  in  ornamental  gardening  can 
ever  atone  for  a  poorly  designed  house.  So,  if  possible, 
consult  your  architect  and  gardener  together;  and  if  you 
can  afford  neither,  you  had  better  borrow  such  features  as 
you  find  in  works  upon  architecture,  like  the  one  in  hand, 
using  them  as  your  pattern  and  guide  rather  than  trust 
you  i  own  poor  taste,  if  such  only  you  possess. 

The  Distance  of  the  House  from  the  Road. 

This  depends  much  upon  the  style  or  size  of  the  house, 
and  more  upon  the  shape  of  the  lot,  which  should  properly 
be  twice  as  long  as  wide.  It  is  also  quite  important  to  con- 
sidei  the  views  to  be  obtained  or  obstructed  by  surround- 
ings. In  general,  all  the  houses  in  a  block  should  front  on 
the  same  line,  and  the  center  of  the  house  should  be  placed 
back  from  the  street  one-fourth  or  one-third  the  length  of 
the  lot,  the  distance  being  increased  with  the  increased 
width  of  the  lot,  providing  the  lengths  are  the  same,  as  is 
usually  the  case  in  cities  and  villages.  Upon  a  lot  ten  rods 
long,  this  brings  a  house  that  is  thirty -three  feet  long,  from 
twenty -five  to  thirty-five  feet  from  the  road,  the  shorter  dis- 
tance being  about  the  least  admissible  in  such  sized  lots,  espe- 
cially if  all  owners  on  the  block  can  agree.  And  between  these 
distances,  the  economic  use  to  which  you  might  desire  to 
put  your  back  yard,  or  the  ornamental  use  to  which  you 


/  MPBO I  'EM.EN  TS.  [89 

might  wish  to  devote  your  front  yard,  must  determine  each 
case. 

Then,  too,  if  your  lot  is  very  high  above  the  grade,  pru- 
dence would  dictate  not  to  use  the  less  distance,  but  rather 
to  increase  the  greater  distance,  thus  giving  less  pitch  per 
rod  from  the  house  to  sidewalk.  The  pitch  should  in  no 
case  exceed  one  foot  to  the  rod,  not  more  than  half  thi,^ 
being  desirable ;  and  even  then  the  surface  should  be  a  little 
full  near  the  center,  giving  it  a  slight  convexity,  which  in 
creases  the  apparent  breadth  of  lawn. 

Means  of  Improvement. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  upon  a  new  place  is  to  secure 
perfect  drainage  for  cellar  and  surplus  waters,  and  the  next 
is  to  mark  out  your  necessary 

Roads  and  Walks; 

But  as  we  have  occasion  to  speak  of  these  more  fully  under 
the  head  of  large  places,  the  details  being  the  same  in  both, 
we  will  proceed  to  the 

Grading  and  Terracing. 

In  case  the  pitch  is  too  great  from  the  house  to  the 
street,  or  in  other  places  upon  the  premises,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  terrace;  and  when  this  is  done,  let  it  seem  to  be  a 
part  of  the  house,  being  parallel  with  it,  and  supporting  the 
same  at  every  turn  when  near  to  it,  or  parallel  with  the 
fence  when  near  to  the  road.  Let  the  banks  be  smoothly 
cut,  and  neatly  sodded  with  the  finest  June  or  blue 
grass  sod  that  can  be  procured  from  some  adjoining  road- 


100  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

side  or  pasture,  not  coarse  timothy,  clover,  or  dandelion  sod. 
The  same  kind  should  be  used  in  strips  about  eight  inches 
wide  for  marking  the  borders  of  drives  and  walks,  and  be 
well  pounded  down  with  the  back  of  the  spade,  and  kept 
well  watered  during  dry  weather.  Give  the  face  of  the  ter  - 
race  sufficient  slant  to  keep  it  from  falling  down,  and  a 
concave  rather  than  a  convex  face,  which  last  does  not 
look  nor  stand  well.  It  would  hardly  seem  proper  to  resort 
to  terraces  unless  there  is  an  incline  above  a  foot  to  the  rod 
in  distance. 

As  regards  the  grading  of  the  general  surface,  it  is  often 
advisable  to  plant  the  ground  to  some  spring  hoeing  crop, 
— potatoes  are  best, — thus  giving  the  old  sod  time  to  decay, 
making  it  much  easier  to  level  down  smoothly  in  the  fall, 
which  of  all  seasons  is  the  best  for  such  work.  Fill  up  all 
abrupt  depressions,  making  the  general  surface  smooth  and 
even,  with  good  descent  for  drainage. 

FOKMATION   OF    LAWNS. 

As  lawns  constitute  the  chief  charm  in  all  small  grounds, 
great  care  should  be  taken  in  their  formation.  Dig  the 
ground  deep  and  apply  plenty  of  fertilizers  in  the  form  of 
rich  loam,  not  clay  alone  unless  the  soil  is  too  sandy,  nor 
sand  alone,  for  it  will  not  hold  moisture  nor  sustain  lux- 
uriant vegetation ;  but  use  both  together,  or  more  of  one  or 
the  other  as  there  seems  to  be  need.  Apply  also  a  good 
quantity  of  composted  muck  if  needed,  and  a  generous  supply 
of  manure  as  free  from  weeds  and  the  coarser  kinds  of  grass 
seed  as  possible.  Composting  one  season  and  turning  often, 
will  greatly  improve  barn-yard  manure,  and  mixing  it  thor- 
oughly with  the  muck  or  road  dust  is  better  still.     After 


FORMA  TION  OF  LA  1 1  rNS.  191 

the  ground  is  leveled  and  the  prepared  manure  applied,  rake 
thoroughly  with  a  fine-tooth  iron  rake,  removing  all  chunks, 
sticks,  stones,  sods,  etc.,  which  may  be  buried  in  the  ground 
or  removed. 

After  this  let  the  ground  settle  awhile,  through  a  heavy 
rain  if  possible;  and  then,  after  again  raking  the  entire 
ground  over  and  making  the  surface  smooth  and  even,  s<nv 
evenly  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  June  or  Kentucky  blue- 
grass  and  redtop  seed,  with  a  little  sweet-scented  clover, 
not  more  than  a  pound  to  three  bushels  of  the  other  two. 
Use  this  mixture  at  the  rate  of  one  quart,  or  a  little  less,  to 
the  square  rod  of  surface.  Sow  early  in  the  spring  or  in 
September,  and  about  July  commence  mowing  to  kill  the 
weeds;  and  if  dandelions,  thistles,  or  other  perennial  weeds 
are  seen,  dig  them  out  with  a  garden  trowel.  Now,  by  mow- 
ing once  in  a  week  or  two,  rolling,  and  during  dry  weather 
sprinkling  occasionally,  you  will  soon  have  the  greatest  or- 
nament that  can  be  obtained  near  a  house  or  made  to  adorn 
small  premises. 

A  Moee  Permanent  Lawn, 

One  that  will  not  be  parched  and  dry  during  the  droughts  so 
common  in  our  climate  in:  summer,  may  be  formed  by  another 
method  which  is  costly  in  the  beginning,  but  will  return  a 
rich  reward  when  once  completed.  This  is  made  by  "  trench- 
ing," or  turning  all  the  ground  upside  down  to  the  depth  of 
two,  or  better,  three  feet;  commence  at  one  side  by  throw- 
ing out  a  ditch,  then  fill  this  by  forming  another  of  same 
width  next  to  it,  and  so  on  until  all  the  ground  has  been 
inverted,  the  first  dirt  thrown  out  being  carried  to  fill  the 
last  ditch.     Then  by  leveling,  rolling,  and  forming  a  new 


102 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


surface  of  rich  soils,  as  at  first  directed,  and  sowing  as  before, 
yon  will  have  the  most  durable  and  perfect  lawn  that  can 
be  formed,  and  the  cheapest  in  the  end.  But  as  most  Amer- 
icans are  too  impatient  for  such  work,  we  have  given  the 
quick  way  first,  supplying  the  lack  of  moisture  by  artificial 
watering  during  periods  of  drought. 


Ghafteh  Y*ST. 


SPECIAL  FEATURES. — DRIVES  AND  WALKS. — VARIETIES  OF 
SHRUBS,  TREES  AND  FLOWERS  TO  USE. — LAYING  OUT 
AND  MAKING  WALKS  AND  DRIVES. — EASY  METHODS  OF 
LAYING   OUT   DRIVES. — GROUPING   AND   PLANTING. 


SPECIAL  FEATURES, 


RIVES  AND  WALKS.— As  we  have  before 
stated,  the  number,  direction,  and  location  of 
drives  and  walks  are  matters  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance, as  these  not  only  form  convenient 
means  of  ingress  and  egress  to  the  premises,  and 
connect  the  points  which  must  be  so  often  visited 
about  every  house,  such  as  the  barn,  gardens, 
out-buildings,  etc.,  but  also  furnish  the  boundary 
lines  for  lawns,  garden-patches,  and  other  divis- 
ions of  the  premises.  Therefore  it  becomes  a 
matter  of  the  utmost  importance  where  these 
necessary  features  should  be  placed  to  make  them  at  once 
convenient  and  useful,  seeming  to  fall  just  where  we  need 
to  go  in  following  our  daily  pursuits, — a  thing  that  no 
true  economist  should  overlook.  Still,  they  can  be  made 
"  a  thing  of  beauty,"  or  at  least,  so  as  to  enhance  the 
more  beautiful  features,  since  they  furnish  a  guide  for  cor- 

13  [193] 


194  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

rect  planting,  which  is  the  most  difficult  of  landscape  work. 
Not  that  we  would  set  our  trees  and  shrubs  in  regular 
order  along  the  line  of  the  drives,  as  would  be  eminently 
proper  in  the  strictly  "formal  style;"  still,  at  every  turn, 
the  one  must  be  governed  and  made  to  support  the  other  in 
an  informal  way ;  hence  the  importance  of  careful  study  in 
locating  our  walks  and  drives.  No  absolute  rules  can  be  laid 
down,  since  premises  and  their  objects  vary  so  materially. 

But  first  of  all,  great  care  should  be  taken  in  regard  to 
the  location  of  the  house,  for  this  in  turn  must  govern  all 
else.  Next  to  this,  as  few  walks  and  drives  should  be  made 
as  will  meet  the  every-day  necessities ;  for  if  too  numerous, 
they  are  expensive  luxuries  which  require  constant  care  and 
attention  to  prevent  their  becoming  nuisances,  for  such  they 
will  become  when  overrun  with  weeds  and  grass,  while  at 
the  same  time  they  greatly  mar  the  breadth  of  lawn  by 
cutting  it  up  into  small  patches  like  a  piece-work  quilt.  If 
the  lot  is  small,  the  house  very  near  the  road, — less  than 
twenty-five  feet, — and  the  door  in  front,  it  will  hardly  be 
possible  to  do  more  than  run  a  straight  walk  from  the  road  to 
the  door,  turning  by  a  gentle  elbow  curve  and  passing  along 
the  side  of  the  house  to  the  kitchen  door,  leaving  a  narrow 
strip  of  sod  between  the  walk  and  house,  and  thence  to  the 
out-buildings  in  the  same  formal  manner. 

Trees  must  be  of  small  size,  and  planted  so  as  to  shut  out 
views  of  an  objectionable  nature,  but  should  never  be  close 
to  the  house.  Use  only  nice  flowering  shrubs,  such  as  the 
althea,  deutzia,  spirea,  weigela,  and  nice  roses  on  the 
warmer  sides;  and  azaleas,  kalmias,  and  rliododemdrons,  all 
with  numerous  varieties,  on  the  cold  or  northern  exposures, 
near  the  dwelling. 


DRIVES  AND  WALKS.  195 

If  you  keep  a  horse  or  cow  and  have  no  alley  in  the  rear, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  put  next  to  one  side  of  the  lot  a 
straight  drive  leading  directly  to  the  barn,  located  at  the 
back  corner  on  that  side.  A  slight  raise  in  the  turf  on  the 
side  of  the  drive  next  to  the  house,  together  with  a  judicious 
planting  of  shrubbery,  either  of  a  strictly  ornamental  char- 
acter or  of  currants,  gooseberries,  etc.,  thus  shutting  out  the 
view  of  the  barn  and  gravel,  may  be  desirable,  thereby 
combining  the  useful  with  the  decorative. 

Flowers  require  such  time  and  attention  as  few  people 
are  willing  to  devote  to  them ;  still,  if  the  ladies  can  be  in- 
duced to  give  their  time,  they  can  be  made  to  add  much  to 
the  beauty  and  attractiveness  of  the  surroundings.  Culti- 
vate those  that  are  hardy,  such  as  peonies,  petunias,  phlox 
drummondii,  asters,  zinnias,  etc.,  putting  only  one  kind 
in  each  of  the  small,  oval  beds  cut  out  here  and  there  in 
the  lawn,  or  else  use  some  high-growing  plants  in  the  center 
and  low  ones  around  the  border  of  the  beds,  which  should 
be  raised  a  few  inches  toward  the  center.  Select  such  colors 
as  blend  together  nicely,  and  care  for  them  well.  A  small 
evergreen  makes  a  nice  center-piece. 

Places  of  Larger  Extent,  with  houses  located  as 
before  directed,  especially  if  the  entrance  is  on  the  side, — a 
much  more  convenient  plan,  considering  ease  of  access,  the 
front  door  being  replaced  with  a  bay-window  if  frontage  is 
favorable, — admit  of  a  greater  diversity  of  walks  and 
drives;  and  these  do  not  differ,  only  in  width,  the  wider 
ones,  above  eight  feet  in  width,  being  used  for  both  purposes 
very  properly. 

The  first  thing  now  to  take  into  consideration  Is  a  con- 
venient place  for  an  entrance.     If  your  daily  travels  lead 


196  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

you  nearly  always  toward  a  certain  corner  of  your  lot  on 
the  front,  and  your  door  is  on  the  same  side,  you  are  fortu- 
nate; for  then  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  make  your  open- 
ing in  the  fence  somewhat  to  that  side  of  the  front  of  the 
house.  Passing  through  the  fence  at  right  angles  therewith, 
very  soon  bear  toward  the  nearest  corner  of  the  house,  and 
before  reaching  it,  again  turn  in  the  opposite  direction, 
passing  the  entrance  at  right  angles  with  it;  thence  continue 
the  drive  toward  the  barn,  which  should  be  located  op- 
posite the  street  entrance,  and  toward  the  back  corner  of 
the  lot,  if  not  too  distant ;  at  the  same  time  a  return  curve 
may  be  made,  leaving  the  barn  drive  on  an  outward  curve 
near  the  house  steps  and  meeting  the  entrance  drive  in  the 
same  manner,  having  made  a  pear-shaped  figure.  If  all 
this  happens  on  the  side  opposite  your  best  room,  which 
should  always  be  on  the  side  of '  }7our  house  overlooking  the 
finest,  warmest  parts  of  your  pleasure-grounds,  so  much  the 
more  fortunate.  Again,  just  where  your  entrance  drive 
first  turns,  you  can  leave  it  in  an  abrupt  manner  in  the 
opposite  direction  with  a  less  conspicuous  drive  or  walk 
which  skirts  that  side  of  the  premises,  and  makes  its  way  to 
the  barn,  wood-yard,  etc.  This  will  obviate  the  necessity 
of  passing  the  house  when  going  on  business,  drawing  feed, 
coal,  etc.  In  case  you  have  a  corner  lot  or  an  alley  in  the 
rear,  there  will  be  less  necessity  for  this  last  drive,  since  the 
barn  may  be  placed  on  the  road  or  alley,  and  easily  reached 
from  the  outside. 

Again,  in  case  there  is  need  for  often  going  in  both  di- 
rections after  reaching  the  street,  and  your  premises  are 
sufficiently  large,  the  house  being  fifty  feet  or  more  from  the 
road,  you  can  have  two  openings  into  the  yard,  about  equally 


WALKS  AND  DRIVES. 


197 


distant  from  the  house,  and  unite  these  by  a  curved  drive 
which  connects  with  the  first-named  drive  where  it  turns 
nearest  to  the  front  corner  of  the  house,  as  spoken  of  at  first. 
This  will  make  nearly  a  half  circle  of  the  drive  connecting 
the  entrances  and  passing  the  front  of  the  house,  which,  in 


4-      * 


0  A    3&&     *i  M 


\»    \     ■ 


Fig.  36. 

this  case,  may  very  properly  have  a  front  door  opening  into 
a  hall,  and  also  a  veranda  or  open  porch  in  place  of  the  bay 
window,  which  would  now  properly  fall  on  the  side  of  the 
huuse  next  to  the  pleasure-grounds. 

As  to  the  details  necessary  to  form  correct  and  pleasing 
curves,  (not  geometric  ones  in  all  cases,  as  some  seem  to 
think,  and  even  give  rules  for  forming),  space  will  not  per- 
mit me  to  explain  fully      A  correct  eye  will  stick  a  row  of 


198         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

stakes  through  the  center  of  the  space  intended  for  a  walk 
or  drive,  and  a  measuring  pole  as  long  as  the  drive  is  wide, 
with  a  short  stick  nailed  at  right  angles  to  the  measure  at 
its  center,  will  determine  the  outside  line  of  the  walk,  pro- 
vided the  short  crossing  stick  is  kept  in  a  line  with  the  cen- 
ter row  of  stakes  at  every  point  measured,  as  shown  in  the 
figure. 

The  same  figure  will  also  show  the  arrangement  of  the 
planting,  which  should  not  be  in  any  formal  order,  but  so 
placed  as  to  appear  natural  and  not  to  obstruct  any  views, 
while  at  the  same  time  furnishing  a  pretense  for  turning 
just  as  we  do.  There  are  other  methods,  such  as  using 
measurements  and  making  offsets  from  tangent  lines,  for 
which  we  must  refer  you  to  the  more  extensive  works  on 
this  subject.  One  more,  which  is  very  easy  to  put  in  prac- 
tice if  the  ground  is  newly  graded  and  raked,  is  to  take 
your  horse  and  carriage  and  start  at  the  entrance  and  drive, 
in  an  easy,  natural  way,  toward  the  points  you  wish  to 
reach ;  then  make  the  return,  meeting  the  first  track  on  the 
outward  bend,  merging  into  it  in  a  graceful  manner,  and  pass- 
ing out.  Then  widen  the  track,  by  stakes  stuck  on  each  side, 
to  the  width  of  your  drive,  or  let  it  remain  as  it  is  for  a 
walk  only.  This  is  the  easiest  of  all  methods  if  you  have 
any  idea  of  where  you  ought  to  drive. 

Making  Walks  and  Drives. 

This  should  be  done  in  as  permanent  a  manner  as  your 
means  will  admit.  There  are  many  methods,  but  the  same 
general  principles  govern  them  all;  viz.,  thorough  drainage 
underneath,  and  a  hard,  compact  surface  that  will  not  cut 
up  into  ruts,  nor  furnish  dust  or  mud  at  any  season  of  the 


DRIVES  AND  WALKS.  199 

year.  In  order  to  accomplish  this,  you  will  need  to  dig  out 
the  dirt  to  the  depth  of  one  foot  at  least,  using  the  same  for 
filling  where  needed,  and  leaving  the  bottom  with  a  gentle 
inclination  toward  the  center  if  the  drive  is  not  more  than 
twelve  feet  in  width ;  in  this  case  a  tile  drain  should  be  laid 
under  this  lowest  line,  following  the  course  of  the  road. 
But  in  case  the  road  is  wider,  slant  the  bottom  both  ways 
from  the  center  toward  the  outside,  and  then  under  both 
these  lowest  points  use  tiers  of  tiles  as  before.  The  tiles 
should  be  put  at  least  one  foot  lower  than  the  bottom  of  the 
road-bed,  and  laid  as  directed  in  the  article  upon  the  im- 
provement of  large  places,  the  ditches  being  filled  with 
gravel  or  other  porous  soil,  in  order  to  let  the  water  drain 
off  rapidly  from  the  road  above. 

The  cheapest  material  with  which  to  fill  the  lower  part' 
of  the  road-bed  is  probably  cobble-stone,  which  should  be 
laid  smoothly  and  evenly  over  the  bottom,  and  then  covered' 
with  layers  of  broken  stones,  stone  chippings,  which  may  be 
bought  sometimes  very  cheap,  large  gravel  stones,  oyster 
shells  or  other  materials  of  similar  nature,  such  as  can  be 
most  easily  procured  in  your  locality.  Fill  in  evenly,  and' 
finish  with  clean,  coarse  gravel  to  a  depth  of  three  or  more 
inches,  bringing  the  edges  up  to  within  two  inches  of  the 
top  of  the  sod  border  before  spoken  of,  which  should  always1 
form  a  border  between  the  drive  and  the  seeded  lawn.  The 
center  of  the  drive  or  walk  should  be  higher  than  the  sides, 
having  an  elevation  of  about  one-half  inch  to  the  foot  in 
width  from  the  side  to  the  center,  or  four  inches  rise  in  a1 
twelve-foot  road.  Each  layer  of  material  should  be  thor- 
oughly rolled,  and  the  surface  kept  well  and  evenly  raked,1 
and  freed  from  weeds.     The  margins  of  sod  should  be  neatly 


200  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

trimmed  several  times  during  the  season,  keeping  them  on 
the  original  line,  which  may  be  preserved  by  driving  a 
line  of  stakes  on  each  side  so  that  the  tops  will  just  come 
even  with  the  sodding.  There  are  several  other  features  in 
connection  with  the  making  of  roads,  of  which  we  have 
only  spoken  briefly,  and  which  must  be  passed  by  in  this 
brief  treatise,  referring  you  again  to  more  exhaustive  works 
on  landscape  gardening. 

Of  this  subject  something  has  already  been  said  in  con- 
nection with  other  subjects;  and  since  no  small  limits  can 
do  it  justice,  it  may  be  as  well  to  omit  it  as  a  separate 
topic,  and  glance  at  it  in  connection  with  the  subjects  treated 
of  in  the  few  remaining  pages.  A  very  good  means  of  in- 
creasing the  breadth  of  lawn  in  small  lots  is  to  have  no 
boundary  fence  between  neighboring  lots,  especially  along 
the  front  half  of  the  lots.  In  this  case,  no  little  care  should 
be  exercised  in  the  planting  of  trees  between  the  two  dwell- 
ings, by  the  judicious  disposition  of  which  we  may  shut 
out  the  view  of  our  neighbor's  house  from  the  best  win- 
dows and  other  points  of  view,  and  thus  appear  to  own  a 
larger  place  than  we  really  do.  Even  the  entrances  to 
two  adjoining  places  may  be  combined  in  one  so  far  as  the 
starting  point  is  concerned,  with  a  saving  of  space,  and  no 
loss  in  effect.  In  case  these  methods  are  put  in  practice,  it 
may  be  best  to  erect  a  high  fence  along  the  back  half  of  the 
line,  and  then  run  a  line  of  hedge  or  a  grape  arbor  at  right 
angles  to  this  on  the  front  end,  reaching  nearly  from  one 
house  to  the  other,  and  separating  the  front  views  from  the 
kitchen  and  other  unsightly  offices  necessary  to  every  house- 
hold. Of  this,  we  shall  speak  again  under  the  subject  of 
fences. 


DRIVES  AND  WALKS. 


201 


A  few  words  on  the  general  location  of  plants:  Except 
in  strictly  formal  grounds,  do  not  plant  trees  at  regular 
distances  along  the  walks,  borders,  etc.,  nor  attempt  to 
make  one  side  exactly  correspond  to  its  counterpart. 
Neither  go  to  the  other  extreme  and  scatter  them  indiscrim- 
inately over  the  premises,  thus  breaking  up  all  the  breadth 
of  lawn  and  shutting  out  all  desirable  views.  Give  heed  to 
the  development  of  these  last  two  features,  which  may  be 
promoted  by  properly  grouping  trees  of  harmonious  forms 
and  shades,  also  by  planting  most  thickly  along  the  margins 
of  the  premises,  especially  on  the  sides  where  shelter  is 
needed  from  cold  winds,  and  in  the  turns  of  the  walks  and 
drives,  as  spoken  of  elsewhere.  Leave  open  vistas  from  the 
best  points  of  view  to  fine  objects  in  the  distance,  or  on  the 
premises,  and  many  a  happy  hour  will  take  the  place  of  idle 
melancholy. 


Ghaptkr    V. 


TREE  PLANTING.  —  THE  BEST  TIME  TO  PLANT.  —  HOW  TO 
PLANT. — REMOVING  AND  PLANTING  LARGE  TREES. — HOW 
TO  SELECT, — A  GOOD  LIST. — CARE  OF  TREES  AND  SUC- 
CESS IN  THEIR  CULTURE. — FENCES.— KINDS  AND  THEIR 
STYLE. — HOW    TO    MAKE   THEM   ORNAMENTAL. 


0>HOO- 


gardeners 


REE  PLANTING.— All  American 
agree,  we  think,  in  placing  November  and  De- 
cember (if  open)  at  the  head  of  all  other  months 
for  the  planting  of  deciduous  ornamental  trees. 
To  be  sure,  small  trees  and  shrubs  will  do  well 
planted  in  the  spring,  especially  if  the  season 
proves  not  too  dry,  and  proper  care  is  taken 
to  mulch  the  ground,  and  thus  prevent  the  di- 
rect rays  of  the  sun  from  absorbing  the  moisture 
immediately  about  the  roots. 

The  conditions  necessary  to  be  observed  may 

Never  remove  a  tree  from 
a  good  soil  and  place  it  in  a  poorer  one ;  and  in  order  to 
prevent  this,  the  hole  in  which  the  tree  is  to  be  set,  must  be 
dug  much  larger  than  the  tree,  and  then  the  extra  space, 
up  to  a  proper  depth,  filled  with  rich  soil,  or  with 
[202] 


be  noted  in  the  following  order :  1 


TREE  PLANTING.  203 

manure  mixed  with  the  lower  and  most  distant  parts  of 
the  soil  in  the  hole.  2.  Do  not  put  the  manure  in  con- 
tact with  the  roots,  nor  set  your  tree  too  deep,  for  these  two 
errors  have  caused  more  failures  than  all  others.  The 
deeper  and  wider  you  make  the  holes  the  better,  even  to  four 
feet  deep,  and  that  much  wider  than  the  roots,  filling  the 
extra  space  with  rich  dirt,  well  packed  down,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  tree  from  settling  when  the  rains  come. 

In  transplanting  large  trees,  above  three  inches  in  diam- 
eter, a  preparation  must  be  made  before  freezing  weather 
comes  on  in  the  fall.  This  consists  in  digging  and  prepar- 
ing the  hole  to  receive  the  tree,  as  before,  after  putting  in 
some  extra  dirt,  which  is  to  be  removed  before  dropping  the 
tree  into  the  hole,  and  used  in  filling  any  extra  space  about 
the  roots.  Also  dig  a  trench  around  the  tree  as  deep  as  its 
main  roots  run,  leaving  a  large  ball  of  dirt  attached  to  the 
loots.  Shave  the  dirt  down  on  top  until  the  roots  appear, 
to  lessen  the  weight.  Both  the  trench  and  the  receiving 
hole  should  be  filled  with  straw,  leaves,  or  coarse  manure,  to 
prevent  the  ball  of  roots  and  the  extra  filling  dirt  from 
freezing  down  on  the  bottom. 

Time  for  Removing  Trees  thus  Prepared. 

Now,  if  you  have  extensive  planting  to  be  done,  and  the 
above  preparations  are  completed,  you  can  wait  until  the 
ground  is  thoroughly  frozen  in  winter,  when  the  removal 
should  be  done,  taking  care  not  to  bruise  the  trees,  and  leav- 
ing the  ball  of  dirt  as  large  as  can  be  conveniently  moved. 
If  but  few  trees  are  to  be  removed,  and  the  weather  is  favor- 
able, i.  e.,  cold,  freezing  nights  and  warm  days,  some  prac- 
tice moving  the  trees  in  the  fall,  early  in  the  morning,  after  a 


204  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

crust  has  been  frozen  over  the  ball  of  dirt  left  about  the  tree. 
dug  around  the  day  previous,  and  thus  obviate  the  necessitv 
of  covering  the  dirt,  which  thaws  out  at  midday,  if  left  ex- 
posed on  the  surface  near  the  hole.  But  where  extensive 
planting  is  to  be  done,  the  first  method  should  be  adopted. 
Then  in  midwinter  remove  the  filling,  and  dig  down  the  bank 
on  the  most  convenient  side  to  such  a  slant  as  to  admit  a 
stone-boat  or  sled  being  backed  under  the  tree,  when  tipped 
over  in  the  opposite  direction.  In  this  way,  trees  a  foot  in 
diameter  may  be  safely  moved,  if  you  apply  force  enough  to 
move  them.  Another  method  of  moving  large  trees  is  to 
use  a  wide,  stout  cart  with  a  heavy  tongue,  which  last  is 
raised  along  side  the  body  of  the  tree  and  bound  fast,  at  the 
same  time  passing  a  strong  chain  under  the  ball  of  roots  and 
over  the  axle  of  the  cart,  then  pull  the  tree  over  with  a  long 
rope  attached  to  the  end  of  the  tongue,  after  which,  hitch  a 
team  to  the  root  end,  draw  it  to  the  new  hole  on  planks,  and 
lower  as  before  directed. 

Before  removing  the  tree,  be  sure  and  make  some  mark, 
either  by  cutting  off  a  limb  or  peeling  the  bark  from  the 
body  a  little,  always  on  the  same  side  of  every  tree  you  re- 
move, the  more  easily  to  be  remembered,  by  which  you  may 
know  how  the  tree  stood,  and  thus  be  able  to  place  the  same 
sides  to  the  same  points  of  the  compass  when  you  set  them 
out.  Some  think  this  an  unimportant  point,  while  others 
lay  great  stress  upon  it.  At  least,  it  is  a  safe  rule  and  re- 
quires little  extra  work;  and  indeed  it  would  seem  quite 
reasonable  that  the  same  side  that  had  become  acclimated  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun  or  any  class  of  winds  should  be  best  able 
to  conform  to  their  effects  when  transplanted  in  the  same 
relative  positions.     As  a  general  rule,  the  width  of  the  roots 


KINDS  OF  TREES.  205 

left  should  be  as  many  feet  as  the  tree  is  inches  in  diameter. 
After  drawing  the  tree  to  its  place,  remove  the  filling  and 
dirt  until  to  the  right  depth  by  measure,  and  then  lower 
the  tree  carefully  to  its  place,  packing  the  dirt  about  the 
ball  and  using  the  rest  of  the  filling  for  a  mulch. 

For  removing  small  trees  or  shrubs,  and  always  for  ever- 
greens, which  are  much  more  difficult  to  make  grow,  where 
the  dirt  is  to  be  removed  from  the  roots,  damp  days  should 
be  chosen;  otherwise  great  care  should  be  taken  to  cover 
and  moisten  the  roots.  Your  success  will  also  depend  much 
upon  the  kind  of  trees  chosen. 

Maples,  elms,  ashes,  and  most  nursery-grown  trees  are 
quite  tenacious  of  life;  but  oaks,  hickories,  chestnuts,  and 
other  deep-rooted  trees  must  be  handled  with  care.  Some 
cut  a  circle  about  the  tree,  severing  the  roots  some  distance 
from  the  body,  or  even  dig  a  trench  and  fill  with  rich  dirt 
six  months  before  removal,  causing  many  fine,  fibrous  roots 
to  spring  out.  Never  select  tall,  spindling  trees,  grown  in 
deep  shade ;  but  rather  get  good,  healthy,  stocky  trees  from 
the  open  fields  or  outskirts  of  the  woods,  where  the  sunlight 
and  winds  have  had  a-' chance  to  harden  and  acclimate  them 
to  the  conditions  with  which  they  are  likely  to  meet  in 
your  exposed  lawns  or  roadsides.  The  land  must  be  tho- 
roughly drained  previously,  so  that  no  water  will  settle  in 
the  holes,  for  no  success  need  be  expected  with  most  trees 
unless  this  is  done,  either  naturally  or  by  tiles. 

Kinds  of  Treks. 

Of  the  shaped  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers  to  be  chosen  to 
accompany  the  various  styles  of  architecture,  we  have  already 
spoken  several  times,  either  by  way  of  criticism  or  direct  in- 
struction ;  and  since  we  have  only  attempted  to  improve  small 


206  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

city  places  so  far,  where  little  can  be  done  in  the  line  of 
grouping,  we  can  recommend  no  trees  better  suited  to  the 
roadside  than  the  different  kinds  of  maples,  which  are  up- 
right, hardy,  beautiful  trees. 

Elms  are  superb  specimen  trees,  especially  on  low  or 
level  grounds,  where  there  is  plenty  of  room  for  their  devel- 
opment; but  for  these  small  places,  as  before  stated,  trees  of 
the  second  class  in  size  are  as  large  as  can  be  used,  and 
among  these  may  be  named  the  mountain  xtsh,  catalpa, 
beeches,  birches,  lindens,  dogwood,  sassafras,  buckeye  or 
horse-chestnuts,  and  in  most  locations,  nothing  is  more  beau- 
tiful at  all  seasons  of  the  year  than  the  common  pepper- 
idge,  among  deciduous  trees.  And  among  the  evergreens 
useful  for  small  places,  the  Norway  spruce  takes  the  lead 
for  either  specimen  trees  or  small  groups,  while  the  arbor 
vital  is  best  suited  for  ornamental  fences  or  hedges,  as  it 
stands  trimming  well  and  thrives  under  almost  any  condi- 
tion, in  shade  or  sunshine.  Cedars  also  answer  the  same 
purpose  very  well.  Evergreen  barberry  and  the  low,  bushy 
juniper  fill  a  needed  want. 

But  we  must  refer  you  to  the  woods  or  to  a  list  of  the 
trees  that  may  be  had  almost  anywhere,  for  want  of  further 
space. 

Fences. 

The  subject  of  fences,  of  which  we  promised  to  speak, 
will  be  difficult,  if  we  attempt  to  please  every  one,  judging 
by  the  numerous  styles  now  displayed  in  front  of  residences 
in  cities.  Tongue  cannot  describe  them  nor  printer's  ink  do 
them  justice  ;  so  we  will  not  try,  but  proceed  to  offer  some 
suggestions  which  meet  our  views  of  good-sense,  taste,  and 
economy.     In  the  first  place,  let  every  man  on  the  same 


KINDS  AND  STYLES  OF  FENCES.  207 

side  of  the  block  agree  to  have  a  .similar  fence,  if  possible, 
thereby  producing  some  degree  of  harmony,  instead  of  entire 
discord. 

From  the  various  views  we  hear  expressed  upon  this 
subject  ralmost  every  day,  we  find  that  many  persons  of 
good  judgment  are  anxious  to  see  all  fences  removed  from 
the  road,  and  the  lawn  extended  to  the  sidewalk ;  and,  in- 
deed, it  has  desirable  features.  It  looks  well  to  the  passer- 
by, and  makes  it  very  convenient  for  him  to  step  into  the 
yard,  peep  into  the  open  window  at  night,  or  examine  every 
little  opening  bud  or  inviting  flower  by  day;  and  at  the 
same  time  there  is  little  resistance  offered  to  keep  idle  hands 
from  appropriating  such  things  as  fancy  leads  them  to 
covet. 

Admitting,  then,  the  need  of  some  protection,  what  shall 
it  be  ?  The  two  obj  ects  for  which  fences  are  erected  are  pro- 
tection and  ornament.  The  first  requires  only  strength  and 
height,  and  is  adapted  to  the  use  of  back  yards  and  parts 
that  are  unsightly,  or  about  yards  containing  fine  fruits  or 
other  things  that  are  likely  to  suffer  from  viciously  inclined 
men  and  stock,  or  from  mischievous  boys.  Any  neat,  high, 
tight  board  or,  sharp  picket  fence  will  answer  the  purpose, 
not  less  than  five  feet  being  a  proper  height.  But  better 
still  would  be  a  nice  hedge  of  thorns;  osage  orange,  where 
not  too  much  exposed  to  cold,  as  it  is  scarcely  hardy  enough 
for  Northern  States,  or  buckthorn,  which  last  Downing  rec- 
ommends above  all  other  hedge-plants  for  this  climate,  are  . 
among  the  best.  Or  if  ornament  is  sought  also,  with  pro- 
tection from  winds,  use  Norway  spruce,  hemlock,  or  arbor 
vitas,  planted  closely,  and  carefully  tended  and  clipped,  let- 
ting them  attain  the  height  of  five  or  more  feet,  thick  and 
even  throughout  their  whole  length. 


208 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


But  about  all  the  ornamental  parts  of  your  small  yard, 
and  including  so  much  of  your  house  as  presents  no  un- 


bi) 


sightly  defects  or  unpleasant  features,  and  of  course,   in- 
cluding the  whole  main  front  of  your  lot  must  be  made  a 


KINDS  AND  STYLES  OF  FENCES.  9()9 

fence  in  which  the  ornamental,  or  at  least  the  unnoticeable, 
predominates,  protection  being-  made  only  partial  and  of 
secondary  importance. 

What  shall  it  be, — iron,  stone,  or  wood?  Of  the  whole 
list,  what  can  be  prettier  than  a  beautiful,  low,  well-kept 
hedge,  made  of  some  of  the  evergreens  last  named  ?  Still 
these  will  not  answer  alone  if  cattle  are  allowed  to  run  the 
roads,  and  they  must  be  protected  by  some  inconspicuous 
wooden  or  iron  structure.  Next  in  neatness,  comes  a  low 
wall,  with  a  coping  of  cut  stone,  the  whole  not  exceeding 
ten  inches  in  height  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
then  surmounted  by  a  light,  tasty  wire  or  iron  fence,  with 
posts  made  of  |xl  inch  iron  bars,  edge  to  the  front,  firmly 
set  into  the  stone  cap  with  brimstone  or  other  fastening  ma- 
terial. Beautiful  patterns  are  easily  selected  by  sending  for 
a  catalogue,  to  any  good  firm  that  manufactures  this  class 
of  articles.  Let  the  design  be  simple,  neat,  and  tasty, 
rather  than  grand  and  self -imposing,  which  detracts  greatly 
from  the  appearance  of  the  house,  and  interrupts  the  view 
of  the  lawn.  Green  or  black  should  be  the  color  of  the 
wires.  In  the  former  case,  use  the  best  green  paint,  as  near 
the  color  of  green  grass  as  possible;  and  dip  the  posts  in 
coal-tar,  which  is  the  best  black  paint  for  iron,  when  used 
boiling  hot.  Some  prefer  sanding  their  fences  while  the 
paint  is  still  green,  and  often  with  good  effect. 

Of  the  cheaper  fences,  the  common  perpendicular,  curved 
top,  wire,  picket  fence,  when  well  made  and  in  good  propor- 
tion,— as  much  of  the  pleasing  effect  and  beautiful  appear- 
ance depend  upon  these  points, — is  among  the  most  substan- 
tial, and  is  not  wanting  in  ornament.  This  is  made  with  a 
frame  of  nice  posts,  with  horizontal  rails  at  top  and  bottom 

of  2x4  inch  stuff,  well-planed  and  notched  together  as  for  a 

14 


210         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

wooden  picket  fence,  but  using,  instead  of  the  latter,  rods  of 
-fc  iron,  placed  three  inches  apart,  passing  through  the  rails, 
and  curved  above  the  top  rail  in  such  a  manner  as  to  again 
enter  the  rail  behind  the  second  or  third  rod  from  it  success- 
ively.    Corner  posts  are  cased,  paneled,  and  capped  nicely. 

A  cheaper  fence  still,  and  one  that  answers  a  good  pur- 
pose without  pretense,  is  the  low,  four-board  fence  now  so 
common.  No  ornamental  fence  should  be  over  three  and 
one-half  feet  high,  nor  have  the  bottom  board  more  than 
two  or  three  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  lawn.  A  large 
vacant  space  beneath  a  fence  presents  an  indefmiteness  that 
is  far  from  pretty  and  very  unsatisfactory  to  behold. 

Some  writers  lay  great  stress  upon  the  use  of  rustic 
fences,  and  other  ornaments.  But  to  us  they  seem  very 
much  out  of  place  in  ordinary  city  lots,  being  only  appro- 
priate where  the  surroundings  are  wild,  rugged,  and  uneven, 
partaking  naturally  of  the  "  picturesque  in  nature." 

The  colors  of  the  fences  should  be  the  same  as  that  of  the 
house,  providing  this  is  such  as  good  taste  suggests;  viz., 
dove,  fawn,  and  other  neutral  tints,  with  trimmings  of  a  little 
darker  shade,  or  even  pure  white  in  the  deep  shade  of  trees, 
unless  they  be  made  of  iron  or  partly  iron,  which  should  be  of 
green  or  black,  as  already  recommended.  Of  course  there 
are  numerous  other  appropriate  styles  of  fences  which  any 
mechanic  of  good  taste  could  devise,  but  all  should  aim  at 
simplicity  of  design  and  neatness  of  finish,  being  made  to 
evade,  rather  than  attract  notice;  which  last  should  always 
be  directed  toward  the  central  figure, — the  house ;  or  if  this 
be  rather  ordinary,  in  appearance,  then  toward  its  beautiful 
adornments,  the  creepers  with  which  it  should  be  shrouded, 
and  also  toward  the  lawn  with  its  embellishments. 


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HOW  TO  MAKE  HOMES  BEAUTIFUL. 


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[211] 


^K^yWERY  man's  proper  mansion-house  and  home,  being 
jfl^J^  the  theater  of  his  hospitality,  the  seate  of  self-frui- 
"^ff^*  tion,  the  comfortablest  part  of  his  own  life,  the  noblest 
«"»  of  his  Sonne's  inheritance,  a  kinde  of  private  princedom, 
naye,  to  the  possessors  thereof,  an  epitomie  of  the  whole  world, 
may  well  deserve  by  these  attributes,  according  to  the  degree 
of  the  master,  to  be  decently  and  delightfully  adorned." 

Sir  Henry  Watton. 


[212] 


Glhaftrr   1. 


INTERIOR  DECORATION. — GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS. — OB- 
JECTS AIMED  AT.  AND  EXTENT  OF  DECORATION. — HOW 
TO  BEAUTIFY  WALLS  AND  CEILINGS. — WALL-PAPERS. — 
HOW  TO   SELECT   THE   BEST. 


:>XKc 


W4',.b-.'/aM,',W"-'-: 

H 


Y  interior  decoration  is  meant  the  addition  to  the 
interior  of  our  homes,  as  finished  by  the  builder, 
of  such  features  as  will  add  to  the  attractiveness 
of  the  rooms  and  lend  an  enchantment  not  felt 
or  attained  where  habitation  is  the  only  object 
desired  in  a  house. 

The   addition   of   furniture   of   the  humblest 
kind  to  a  room  relieves  the  monotony  and  gives 
it   an   air   of    comfort;    the   presence   of    other 
articles  not  strictly  in  the  line  of  necessities  still 
further  adds  to  its  comfort. 
But  there   are  other  considerations;    rooms  should  not 
only  be   habitable   but  cheerful,  and  she  is  a  wise  house- 
wife who  recognizes  this  fact  early  and  sets  about  obtaining 
the  desired  result. 

The  practice  of  Home  Decoration  is  growing  in  favor 

rapidly;  and  as  general  culture  increases,  the  demand  for 

[213] 


214  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

means  of  beautifying  the  home  increases,  and  the  ingenuity 
of  decorators  has  been  taxed  to  its  utmost  to  keep  pace  with 
the  demand. 

Walls  and  ceilings  are  no  longer  left  in  monotonous 
white,  where  even  the  presence  of  a  soiled  spot  affords 
relief  for  the  eye,  but  are  now  beautified  in  many  ingenious 
ways  to  relieve  the  dreary  expanse. 

In  these  chapters,  the  author  will  endeavor  to  point  out 
some  of  the  ways  in  which  Interior  Decoration  may  be 
effected,  giving  simple  directions  therefor,  so  that  by  these 
instructions  any  one  can  perform  most,  if  not  all,  the  work 
without  the  aid  of  skilled  labor,  with  the  simple  suggestion 
that,  where  it  can  be  afforded,  the  assistance  of  the  trades- 
man should  be  utilized. 

The  extent  of  decoration  should  harmonize  with  the  sur- 
roundings ;  in  other  words,  it  should  be  governed  by  the  uses 
to  which  the  room  is  to  be  put,  its  size,  and  the  amount  to 
be  expended,  so  that  when  done,  there  will  be  an  air  of 
completeness  about  the  room  which  will  render  its  occu- 
pancy pleasing.  And  here  let  it  be  remarked  that  Elabora- 
tion is  not  Decoration;  the  central  idea  of  Decoration  is 
comfort;  Elaboration  may  leave  no  room  for  comfort. 

Harmony  is  another  vital  consideration  in  the  matter  of 
decoration.  Especially  is  this  true  of  colors;  the  entire  con- 
tents of  a  room  should  present  such  mingling  of  colors  as 
will  rest  the  eye  and  awaken  admiration. 

Many  overlook  this  important  factor  in  the  decoration 
of  houses,  and  thereby  spoil  what  might  otherwise  have  been 
a  source  of  admiration  and  beauty.  With  this  we  pass  to 
the  consideration  of 


DECORATING  WALLS.  215 

Walls  and  Ceilings. 

Next  to  the  adornment  of  our  own  persons,  the  back- 
ground or  foundation  of  the  rooms  which  we  inhabit  is  of 
greatest  interest  to  us.  Our  circumstances  determine  wheth- 
er these  backgrounds,  which  resolve  themselves  finally  into 
wall-papers,  shall  be  pleasant  negative  settings  to  the  objects 
with  which  we  fill  our  homes,  or  whether  these  decorations 
shall  themselves  supply  the  lack  of  objects  which  our  taste 
or  our  purse  may  have  hindered  us  from  collecting. 

Wall-Papers. 

Like  all  transient  fashions  of  dress  or  ornament,  where 
the  material  is  comparatively  cheap,  the  patterns  or  colors 
of  wall-paper  are  constantly  changing,  and  new  patterns 
and  fashions  are  brought  out  every  year.  The  small 
expense  attending  the  decoration  of  a  house  enables  each 
new  occupant  to  choose  the  style  of  his  mural  adoi'nment  at 
frequent  intervals.  It  is  our  aim  here  to  present  certain 
principles  according  to  which  a  person  may  be  able  to  select 
such  mural  and  ceiling  decorations  as  may  be  best  adapted 
to  the  rooms  he  wishes  to  adorn.  Nothing  more  keenly 
excites  homesickness  than  the  dismantling  of  a  room  where 
our  life  is  usually  spent.  A  sense  of  loneliness  is  produced 
by  the  removal  of  our  paintings,  book-case,  and  hanging 
shelves  in  an  ordinary  house  cleaning,  which  is  only  effaced 
by  a  complete  restoration  after  the  cleaning  is  over.  Wall- 
papers add  as  much  or  perhaps  even  more  to  our  pleasure 
and  comfort,  at  home,  than  pictures  or  other  ornaments.  The 
favorite  painting  may  be  dispensed  with,  but  the  harmony 
or  disagreeable  tints  and  figures  on  the  wall-paper  become 


216  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

a  part  of  the  room,  and  are  not  so  easily  be  to  disposed  of. 
They  either  possess  the  richness  and  repose  suitable  for  a 
pleasing  background  to  furniture,  mirrors,  and  paintings,  or 
their  glaring,  patchy  colors  kill  the  effect  of  the  best 
pictures;  and  to  many  a  nervous  invalid  they  render  his 
hours  and  days  miserable,  as  he  counts  and  combines  over 
and  over  again  the  meaningless  recurrence  of  a  marked 
angle  or  curve,  or  the  ever-repeated  misshaped  flower. 

The  first  principle  that  should  be  considered  in  the 
choice  of  wall-paper,  is  that  the  decoration  of  the  sides  of  a 
room  ought  always  to  be  a  background  more  or  less  rich, 
according  to  the  circumstances,  for  the  usual  occupants,  fur- 
niture, and  ornaments,  relieved  against  it.  The  choice  of  a 
pattern  then  becomes  of  secondary  importance.  A  pattern 
that  would  be  agreeable  to,  and  suitable  for,  a  large  room, 
would  not  be  for  a  small  room,  because  little  groups  of 
objects  on  a  wall-paper,  covering  a  limited  space,  take  pleas- 
ant, general  figures,  which,  if  they  are  seen  scattered  over  a 
large  surface,  make  combinations  that  destroy  the  effect  of 
the  most  attractive  patterns  in  detail. 

In  looking  over  a  vast  number  of  paper-hangings,  one  is 
apt  to  be  impressed  with  the  fact  that  the  beauty  of  the 
paper  arises  much  more  from  a  successful  combination  of 
colors  than  from  any  special  loveliness  of  design. 

Patterns  mav  be  observed  where,  in  a  small  set  of 
squares,  grave  and  rich  effects  are  produced  by  a  skillful 
variety  of  tints  of  olive  and  bronze,  enlivened  here  and 
there  by  small  touches  of  red.  In  some  of  these  little 
squares  are  leaves  of  plants;  in  others,  simple  circles;  and 
in  others,  some  formal,  geometrical  patterns.  Yet  as  a 
result  of  them  all,  we  have  a  quiet  and  perhaps  brilliant 


SELECTING  WALL  PAPERS.  217 

shadow,  relieving  against  its  rich  hues,  positive  tints  in 
clothing,  or  bright  china,  or  brilliant  glass,  as  well  as  the 
people  and  furniture  in  the  room. 

A  person  is  almost  always  able  to  find  in  any  stock  of 
paper-hangings,  a  kind  of  paper  so  simple  in  its  attempts  at 
form  and  color,  that  any  one  is  sure  to  be  pleased  if  he 
covers  his  walls  with  it.  These  papers  consist  of  narrow, 
simple  stripes,  tiny  clover  leaves,  or  it  may  be  little  star- 
shaped  figures,  grey  or  white,  upon  a  background  scarcely 
different  from  itself. 

A  cool  and  pleasant  effect  is  always  given  to  an  apart- 
ment thus  covered ;  and  if  rich  oil-paintings  could  not  bear 
the  contrast  with  so  chilly  a  color,  no  headache  was  ever 
aggravated  by  it,  no  ornament  ever  obscured.  A  paper  so 
neutral  is  not  positively  offensive,  though  it  may  be  of  an 
antiquated  style. 

Choice  of  Papers. 

In  the  choice  of  papers,  a  person  must  look  to  the  adapt- 
ation of  tints  for  different  rooms,  choosing  bright  or  even 
brilliant  shades  for  the  dining-room,  bronze  shades  with 
slight  points  of  gold  for  a  library,  slight  soft  shades  of  blue 
or  light-grey  for  bed-rooms,  and  rich  cream  colors  with  per- 
haps a  little  gold  for  the  parlor  or  drawing-room.  The 
patterns  or  forms  best  suited  to  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
rooms  can  then  be  selected. 

Long,  perpendicular  lines,  as  it  is  well  known,  lead  the 
eye  up,  and  give  an  impression  of  height  to  an  apartment 
that  no  other  combination  can  realize.  Figures  whose  pre- 
dominating lines  are  horizontal  lower  the  appearance  of  the 
room,  while   large,  detached   patterns  at  regular  distances 


218 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


tire  the  eye  and  the  mind  with  the  constant  tendency  to 
count  and  recombine  them;  and  besides,  they  compete  so 
powerfully  with  other  objects  on  the  walls,  such  as  pictures 
and  bric-a-brac,  and  they  disturb  the  effect  of  background 
to  people  or  furniture  so  completely,  that  this  class  of  forms 
is,  perhaps,  of  all  others,  the  most  to  be  condemned.  The 
scintillating  effects  of  small  figures  render  them  the  most 
suitable  for  wall-papers. 

Of  the  numerous  changes  and  improvements  in  all  de- 
partments of  art,  none  is  more  remarkable  than  the  rapid 
advance  made  in  wall  decorations  and  paper-hangings. 
Wall-papers,  with  humming-birds  and  gigantic  roses  on  a 
sea-greenish  background,  have  happily  become  antiquated, 
and  an  ugly  or  too  conspicuous  wall-paper  is  now  the  excep- 
tion, not  the  rule.  Wall-papers  as  now  produced,  are  the  re- 
sult of  a  comparatively  well-educated  taste. 


GHAPTER    jj># 


HINTS  ON  THE  CHOICE  OF  PAPERS. — WHAT  SHADES  TO  SE- 
LECT.— HARMONY  OF  COLORS. — SELECTING  PAPER  FOR 
DIFFERENT   ROOMS. — THE   DADO. 


aoJOScxi 

E  present  herewith  a  few  hints  to  guide  our  read- 
ers in  the  choice  of  wall  and  ceiling  papers  for 
different  rooms.  In  the  first  place,  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  paper  must  not  be  the 
most  ornamental  part  of  the  room,  but  must 
serve  as  a  background  for  the  general  furnishing 
and  objects  the  room  contains. 

If  the  general  furnishing  of  the  room  is  rich 
and  elaborate,  the  paper  should  correspond;  still 
it  must  not  be  too  conspicuous,  but  form  a  rich 
background  to  harmonize  with  the  various  rich 
objects  which  are  presented  against  it. 

If  the  furniture  is  plain,  it  will  be  entirely  out  of  place  to 
have  a  rich  paper  upon  which  it  shall  be  outlined ;  for  then  the 
richness  of  the  latter  will  tend  to  give  a  cheap  appearance 
to  all  the  furnishings  of  the  room.  Consequently,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  give  too  rich  a  color  .to  the  walls  of  a  room, 
and  one  not  in  harmony  with  all  the  surroundings.     A  gold 

paper  is  not  needed  to  add  to  the  richness  of  a  room. 

[2191 


220  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Another  consideration  in  choosing  paper  is  as  to  how 
light  or  dark  the  room  is.  If  a  room  has  many  windows, 
and  is  therefore  well  lighted,  it  will  bear  a  paper  with  a 
darker  background  than  though  it  was  poorly  lighted ;  and 
a  dark  room  should,  on  the  other  hand,  have  a  light  paper. 

Parlor  or  Drawing-Room  Papers. 

For  parlor  or  drawing-room  paper,  those  with  light  or 
medium  backgrounds  are  regarded  in  best  taste,  introducing 
but  few  colors  and  those  of  rich  and  delicate  tints,  and  dis- 
tributed as  evenly  as  possible,  so  as  to  avoid  any  strong 
contrasts. 

The  patterns  for  parlor  papers  are  subject  to  frequent 
change,  the  latest  styles  running  more  to  curved  lines  than 
to  any  distinct  patterns.  The  choice  of  patterns,  however, 
is  a  matter  of  taste,  and  must  in  most  cases  be  determined 
by  the  size  and  general  appearance  of  the  room. 

Dados  are  rarely  used  upon  parlors  or  drawing-rooms. 
A  frieze  or  border  is  always  used,  and  these  are  of  widths 
varying  from  six  to  twenty  inches.  The  width  of  the  frieze 
upon  any  room  must  be  determined  by  the  height  of  the 
room  and  by  other  accessories.  This  is  usually  of  the  same 
color  as  the  background  of  the  paper,  or,  possibly,  in  most 
cases  a  little  lighter,  but  seldom  of  a  darker  hue.  The  idea 
of  the  frieze  is  to  give  an  appearance  of  greater  height  to 
the  room,  and  the  frieze  and  paper  should  be  separated  by  a 
dark  baud  or  a  band  of  gold  color.  A  gilt  molding  is  often 
used  at  the  junction  of  the  wall  and  ceiling. 

In  this  connection  it  might  be  suggested  that  a  French 
pearl-grey,  a  warm  stone  color,  a  pale  buff,  or  a  delicate 
green,  are  all  beautiful  for  parlor  walls.     The  faintest  sus- 


SELECTING  WALL-PAPERS.  221 

picion  of  pink,  like  the  inner  lining  of  some  lovely  sea-shells, 
is  both  pretty  and  becoming,  and  will  go  well  with  most 
things  in  the  way  of  furnishing. 

A  frieze  of  flowers  and  butterflies  would  not  be  inhar- 
monious with  this  tint.  Pale  lemon-yellow  is  a  pleasing 
tint,  or  a  fuller  apricot-yellow  is  very  effective,  especially 
with  black  wood-work. 

In  speaking  of  the  color  it  is  not  meant  that  the  wall- 
paper must  be  of  one  single  tint,  but  reference  is  made  to 
the  predominating  hue,  which  exists  even  when  pattern  and 
coloring  are  complex. 

The  shape  of  a  room  has  much  to  do  with  its  general 
effect.  A  long,  narrow  room  lacks  the  capabilities  of  one 
square,  or  nearly  square.  A  broken  line  of  wall  is  by  no 
means  a  misfortune,  and  may  be  converted  into  prettier  sur- 
prises than  could  possibly  be  effected  with  straight  lines. 

The  Library. 

For  a  library,  more  antique  patterns  may  be  used  in 
wall-papers,  and  the  prevailing  style  at  present  is  the  use  of 
Pompeian  colors,  of  somewhat  sombre  hues,  but  not  enough 
so  to  make  the  room  appear  gloomy. 

Dados  are  used  in  the  library.  These  are  not  less  than 
26  inches  wide,  and  sometimes  as  high  as  four  or  five  feet, 
but  oftenest  run  from  30  to  40  inches.  Dados  are  either  of 
the  same  shade  or  somewhat  darker  than  the  wall-paper, 
but  never  of  a  lighter  shade.  Friezes  are  also  used,  which 
are  usually  of  a  lighter  shade. 

The  Bed-Rooms. 

The  choice  of  wall-paper  must  be  determined  greatly  by 
the  amount  of  light  to  which  they  are  exposed.     If  the  room 


222  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

be  somewhat  dark,  a  paper  with  a  very  light  background 
should  be  put  on,  and  generally  speaking,  light  papers  should 
be  used  on  bed-rooms,  but  considerably  darker  for  a  well- 
lighted  than  for  a  poorly-lighted  room.  Where  there  are 
floods  of  sunshine,  French  grey,  blue,  or  cream  color  may  be 
used  to  advantage. 

If  friezes  or  bordering  can  be  found  of  roses  and  buds, 
morning  glories,  daisies,  or  primroses,  according  to  the  paper, 
the  effect  will  be  very  good.  Patterns  of  flowers  are  espe- 
cially appropriate  for  bed-rooms.  A  cottage  bed-room, 
papered  with  small  pink  roses  on  a  white  satiny  ground,  is 
exceedingly  pretty. 

The  Dining-Room. 

The  paper  for  the  dining-room  should  have  a  background 
of  a  medium,  or  from  a  medium  to  a  dark,  color.  If  a  dado 
is  used,  then  rich  colorings  may  predominate  in  the  dado 
while  the  wall  may  be  left  comparatively  free  of  colors  and 
quiet  in  tone.  The  dado  may  be  from  30  to  40  inches  in 
height. 

If  no  dado  is  used,  the  walls  themselves  may  partake  of 
bright  and  cheerful  colors,  and  well-defined  patterns.  The 
ceiling  should  be  light  and  delicate,  and  near  the  cornice 
one  or  two  lines  of  harmonious  but  contrasting  color  with 
that  on  the  walls. 

One  of  the  handsomest  wall  coverings  for  a  dining-room, 
where  it  is  at  all  suitable,  is  a  dado  of  rich  maroon,  with 
gilt  figures,  and  a  gilt  and  maroon  molding  in  lines;  above 
this,  a  very  pale  tint  of  olive-green  with  the  cornice  of 
maroon  and  gold. 


DECORATION  OF  CEILINGS.  m 

Ceilings. 

From  the  nature  of  ceilings,  the  manner  of  finishing  them 
is  susceptible  of  a  wider  range  than  the  side  wall  affords, 
however  ornamental  the  latter  may  be.  The  reason  of  this 
is  apparent  when  we  consider  that  the  ceiling  is  the  only 
portion  of  an  apartment  which  is  not  covered  up  or  obscured 
by  furniture  or  ornaments,  and  that  the  eye  rests  upon  it 
undisturbed  by  surrounding  objects.  The  repose  which 
comes  from  a  repetition  of  small  figures,  and  the  brilliancy 
of  effect  of  large  pictures,  balanced  by  suitable  surround- 
ings, are,  in  various  circumstances,  proper  to  ceilings. 

Until  lately,  good  taste  had  been  so  little  developed  that 
it  was  agreed  for  dwelling-houses  in  general  that  a  plain 
white  ceiling  was  the  best,  and  we  were  content  to  paper 
our  walls  and  kalsomine  or  whitewash  our  ceilings.  But  we 
are  at  last  beginning  to  learn  that  the  blank  white  ceiling 
may  be  relieved  from  its  cold  chilliness  by  a  mixture  of  buff,  or 
greenish,  or  some  other  hue,  which  gives  a  warmer  and  more 
agreeable  tint  to  a  room  than  simple  whitewash,  and  it  may 
be  made  even  more  beautiful  by  the  use  of  ornamental 
papers. 

The  decoration  of  ceilings  with  paper  has  now  come  into 
general  use,  and  has  taken  the  place  of  the  more  expensive 
decorating  by  fresco  painting.  The  latter  method  of  deco- 
rating ceilings  in  private  residences  could  only  be  employed 
by  the  wealthier  classes,  and  so  rarely  do  we  find  experienced 
artisans  in  fresco  painting,  that  the  cost  of  frescoing  the  ceil- 
ings of  a  fine  residence  is  so  great  that  but  few  of  even  the 
wealthier  indulge  in  it. 

Equally  as  good  and  perhaps  better  effects  are  now  being 


224  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

produced  at  from  one-half  to  one-tenth  the  cost,  by  the  use 
of  papers  made  especially  for  ceilings  in  all  manner  of  de- 
signs. They  are  frequently  astronomical  patterns,  represent- 
ing so  far  as  can  be  done  the  canopy  of  the  heavens. 

They  are  produced  with  no  positive  or  set  patterns,  and 
no  straight  lines.  The  outer  edges  consist  usually  of  panel- 
ings  and  stilings,  of  which  there  are  many  beautiful  designs 
in  paper,  while  the  astronomical  patterns  come  in  between, 
arranged  also  in  panels. 

The  former  style  of  having  large  plaster-of -Paris  center- 
pieces and  raised  cornices  along  the  room  has  been  abandoned. 
Small,  tastefully-ornamented  center-pieces  from  ten  to  eight- 
een inches  in  diameter  are  much  used,  from  the  center  of 
which  suspends  the  chandelier  in  the  middle  of  the  room. 

The  effect  of  decorating  ceilings  with  paper  is  especially 
beautiful,  and  when  tastily  done,  it  adds  very  much  to  the 
beauty  of  the  room.  The  paper  for  ceilings  has  a  light  back- 
ground, while  the  edges  are  usually  of  a  darker  shade.  The 
patterns  of  papers  for  ceilings  are  quite  numerous,  and  may 
be  found  at  any  store  where  paper-hangings  are  sold. 

The  decoration  of  ceilings  has  become  a  very  important 
part  of  the  paper-hanger's  work ;  and  when  he  has  an  artis- 
tic eye  and  fine  taste,  his  work  often  excels  that  of  the  fresco 
painter. 

The  Dado. 

The  use  of  the  dado  in  the  sitting-room,  dining-room,  and 
library,  answers  to  some  extent  the  purpose  of  wainscoting. 
It  forms  a  lower  bordering  to  the  paper,  and  may  extend  to 
any  height  desirable,  from  two  feet  to  five  feet,  though  its 
height  is  usually  from  thirty  to  forty  inches.    It  often  forms 


/ 


a 


A  5^ 


A  $s* 


A^ 


&&J&&J&<l#J&-* 


Fig.  38. 


Wo  present  three  designs  of  Friezes,  of  the  very  latest  pattern.     Fig. 
'S  was  designed  by  Mr.  Johx  Leighton,  F.  S.  A..  London. 


F'g    39- 

The  second  design  is  by  Mr.  Fi;fi>  Beck,  of  NV«    York,  the  manufac- 
turer of  wall-papers. 


Fig.  40. 


And  the  last,  by  Mr.  Lewis  C.  Tiffany,  of  New  York,  the  distin- 
guished decorative  artist  and  painter.  The  designs  of  Messrs.  Leighton 
and  Tiffany  have  been  kindly  furnished  the  publishers  of  this  work  by 
Messrs.  Warren,  Fuller  &  Co.,  New  York,  the  largest  manufacturers  of 
wall-papers  in  the  United  States. 


THE  DADO  AND  FRIEZE.  225 

a  more  suitable  background  for  the  display  of  the  furniture 
and  other  furnishings  of  the  room,  and  affords  place  for  a 
richer  and  more  elaborate  display  than  the  wall-papers 
proper. 

The  designs  upon  dados  are  often  very  rich  and  high- 
colored,  while  the  wall-paper  above  has  a  quiet  tone,  and  is 
of  medium  light  or  dark  color  according  to  the  size  or  light 
of  the  room.  The  dado  is  almost  always  of  a  darker  shade 
than  the  wall-paper,  and  patterns  of  high-colored  and  large 
flowers  or  birds  are  not  uncommon. 

The  Frieze  is  the  top  border  next  to  the  ceiling. — It  is 
now  usually  from  six  to  eighteen  inches  in  width,  the  width 
used  depending  principally  upon  the  height  of  the  room. 
The  custom  formerly  was  to  have  the  frieze  darker  than  the 
paper  on  the  main  wall,  but  of  late  years  the  frieze  is  some- 
what lighter  than  the  paper,  with  a  dark  line  or  beading  at 
the  point  where  they  unite.  A  gilt  molding  at  the  corner 
above  the  frieze  produces  a  good  effect. 

A  roll  of  paper  will  cover  from  thirty-six  to  forty-four 
square  feet,  and  by  ascertaining  the  number  of  square  feet 
on  the  walls  to  be  covered,  and  dividing  it  by  thirty-six,  the 
number  of  rolls  of  paper  needed  will  be  ascertained.  In 
measuring  the  walls,  of  course  the  windows  and  doors  are 
not  to  be  taken  into  consideration.     # 

Paper  is  sold  by  the  roll,  and  ranges  in  price  according 
to  texture,  style,  finish,  and  color,  from  ten  cents  upward, 
some  of  the  most  elaborate  styles  selling  as  high  as  twenty- 
five  dollars  per  roll. 

15 


Gmafti&r   5M. 


HOW  TO  HANG  WALL-PAPERS. — SIMPLE  INSTRUCTIONS  EOR 
EVERYBODY. — SIZING  THE  WALLS. — AMOUNT  OF  PAPER 
IN  A  ROLL. — HOW  TO  CUT  AND  MATCH  THE  PAPER. — 
PASTE  FOR  WALL-PAPER. 


o^c 


-(pttjT  is  usually  best  to  leave  the  walls  or  ceilings  for 

K 

reason  that  it  requires  that  time  for  the  plaster  to 

become  so  thoroughly  dry  as  to  hold  the  paper. 

If,  however,  it  is  desirable  to  paper  new  walls,  it 

will  be  necessary  to  first  put  on  a  thin  coat  of 

sizing,  in  order  to  make  a  surface  to  which  the 

paper  will  stick   better  than  to  the  bare  wall. 

This  sizing  may  be  made  of  a  weak  solution  of 

glue,  and  may  be  put  upon  the  wall   with   a 

whitewash  brush.       However,   if  the  walls  are 

green  they  are  apt  to  draw  the  colors  from   the  paper,  so 

that  it  is  best  in  all  cases  not  to  paper  walls  for  at  least 

a  year. 

In  preparing  an  old   whitewashed  or  colored   wall  for 

paper,  the  wash  or  color  is  first  wetted  well  with  water,  and 

scraped  off  with  an  old  plane-iron,   or  any  piece  of  steel 

[226] 


HOW  TO  HANG  WALL-PAPERS.  9'27 

which  hag  a  smooth  edge,  after  which  the  wall  should  be 
swept  down  with  a  stiff  broom,  to  remove  all  that  the 
scraper  may  have  left,  and  make  an  even  surface.  If  there 
is  any  loose  plaster,  those  parts  should  be  well  sized  and  have 
a  piece  of  strong  paper  pasted  over  them,  but  it  is  even 
better  to  have  the  place  re-plastered.  Cracks  or  holes  may 
easily  be  filled  with  a  little  putty,  and  in  no  case  should 
they  be  left  unfilled.  If  not  stopped  in  any  other  way, 
slips  of  paper  should  be  pasted  over  them,  or  else  the  cracks 
will  soon  show  through  the  outer  paper. 

After  all  this  is  done,  the  room  may  be  sized,  and  the 
sizing  will  be  dry  enough  in  an  hour  for  the  papering  to 
be  commenced. 

If  the  room  has  once  been  papered,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  go  over  the  walls  and  tear  off  all  the  loose 
pieces,  especially  at  the  top  and  bottom,  corners  and  edges. 
If  the  bare  wall  is  exposed  by  the  tearing  off,  these  spots 
should  be  sized.  After  all  these  preparations  are  made,  the 
wall  is  ready  to  receive  the  paper,  and  the  hanging  may 
proceed. 

Wall-paper  comes  in  rolls,  eight  yards  in  length,  and 
from  eighteen  to  twenty-two  inches  in  width.  A  margin  runs 
along  each  side  of  the  paper  usually  from  one-fourth  to 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  wide,  and  before  hanging  the  paper 
the  margin  on  one  of  these  edges  must  be  trimmed  close  to 
the  pattern  printed  on  the  paper.  To  do  this,  unroll  a  yard  or 
two  of  one  of  the  pieces  of  paper  and  with  a  pair  of  scissors 
trim  off  the  edge,  rolling  up  the  paper  again  as  it  is  trimmed. 

It  is  usual  to  begin  papering  from  one  of  the  main 
windows  in  the  room,  and  the  edges  of  the  paper  when  hung 
shall  be  toward  that  window,  so  that  it  will  be  necessary  to 


228  OUR  HOMES  A  XI)  THEIR  ADORXMEXTS. 

trim  off  the  edge  of  the  paper  nearest  to  the  window.  It 
is  necessary  to  trim  off  but  one  edge,  as  the  paper  when 
put  on  the  wall  laps  over  the  margin  of  the  other  edge  in 
order  to  match  the  pattern. 

When  the  edge  is  trimmed,  cut  off*  a  length  about  the 
height  of  the  room  from  the  ceiling  to  the  base-board,  or  if  a 
dado  is  to  be  used,  so  that  it  will  come  an  inch  or  two  below 
the  top  line  of  the  dado.  The  second  length  must  be  cut  -<o 
that  the  pattern  will  match  exactly  with  the  piece  first  cut, 
and  so  on. 

If  desired,  as  many  lengths  may  be  cut  at  once  as  will 
be  necessary  to  cover  the  room,  or  each  piece  may  be  cut  as 
it  is  needed. 

The  paste  having  been  prepared  beforehand,  a  thin  layer 
may  be  spread  over  the  back  of  the  first  piece,  fold  the  piece 
up  so  as  to  handle  it  easily,  and  having  brought  the  top  to 
meet  the  ceiling,  see  that  the  length  hangs  straight,  trying 
it,  if  necessary,  by  a  plumb-line;  then,  after  having  fastened 
the  top  to  the  wall,  take  it  by  the  lower  end,  draw  it  awav 
from  the  wall,  being  careful  not  to  loosen  it  from  the  wall 
at  the  top,  and  let  it  fall  back  and  it  will  drop  into  its  place 
without  a  wrinkle. 

Now  with  a  soft  clean  cloth  begin  at  the  top  and  press 
the  paper  to  the  wall  all  down  the  center  to  the  bottom. 
Then  beginning  at  the  top,  again  press  it  from  the  center  to 
each  side,  alternately,  regularly  downward.  If  this  opera- 
tion be  properly  done,  the  length  will  be  perfectly  close  to 
the  wall,  and  smooth  in  every  part. 

It  is  not  to  be  pressed  heavily;  but  the  cloth,  being  taken 
in  the  hand  as  a  round,  loose  lump,  must  be  moved  quickly 
over  the  surface — dab — dab — dab — with  a  light,  clean  touch, 


HOW  TO  HANG  WALL-PAPERS.  229 

otherwise  some  of  the  colors  may  be  apt  to  smear.  Last  of 
all,  mark  with  the  point  of  the  scissors  where  the  paper 
meets  the  baseboard,  cut  off  all  that  is  over,  and  press  the 
end  carefully  into  its  place. 

Proceed  with  the  second  length  in  the  same  way,  bring- 
ing the  trimmed-off  edge  to  meet  the  pattern  of  the  first  one, 
and  taking  care  that  no  gap  is  left  between.  Neglect  of 
these  precautions  will  convert  a  handsome  paper  into  a  sight 
that  will  be  a  constant  eye-sore.  Try  the  lengths  frequently 
with  the  plumb-line  to  avoid  the  chance  of  getting  out  of 
upright. 

How  to  Make  Paste. 

Paste  is  best  made  with  old  flour,  water,  and  a  little  size 
or  glue;  alum  is  also  added,  to  make  it  spread  more  freely 
without  losing  any  of  its  tenacity  or  sticking  quality.  It 
should  be  brought  to  a  slow  boil  and  made  rather  thicker 
than  ordinary  gruel,  and  then  allowed  to  get  cool  before 
using.  It  should  be  laid  on  the  paper  smoothly  and  equally, 
with  a  good  brush,  not  putting  on  too  much,  or  it  will  squeeze 
out  at  the  edges.  "Where  this  takes  place  it  must  be  renewed 
with  a  clean  damp  sponge.  Any  accidental  smears  of  paste 
may  be  removed  in  this  way,  if  taken  off  lightly  as  soon,  as 
they  are  made. 


Ghaptee    IV. 


DECORATIVE  ART  NEEDLE-WORK, 

KECENT  IMPROVEMENTS  IN  NEEDLE-WORK. — USEFULNESS  NOW 
A  PROMINENT  FEATURE. — LIST  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF 
MATERIALS. — PRICES. — BEAD  WORK. 


&K* 


O    department  of   home   ornamentation   offers  a 
wider  range  than  Needle- Work.     Each  year  the 
desire  to  increase  the  attractions  of  our  homes, 
becomes  greater.     In  many  large  cities  societies 
of   Decorative   Art   have   been  teaching  ladies 
wThat  real  ornamentation  means,  and  great  prog- 
ress has  been  made,  as  the  demand  for  specimens 
and  designs  for  needle- work  and  embroidery  fully 
attest.     It  is  needless  to  say  that  the  embroidery 
of  to-day  is  vastly  superior  to  that  of  a  few  years 
ago, — that  the  glaring,  unserviceable  ornamen- 
tation of  the  past  has  given  place  to  decoration  of  a  more 
refined  character,  in  which  cultivated  taste  displays  itself, 
while  usefulness  is  not  overlooked. 

The  real  secret  of  beauty  in  home  decoration  does  not 
depend  so  much  upon  the  richness  of  materials  used  as  upon 
their  arrangement  with  reference  to  the  principles  of  har- 
mony and  simplicity. 
[230] 


MATERIALS  FOB  EMBROIDERY.  V'M 

The  cardinal  principles  in  work  of  this  character  should 
be  usefulness  and  ornamentation  combined. 

Materials. 

The  materials  used  as  foundation  work  for  embroidery- 
are  varied,  new  ones  being  brought  out  every  year;  but 
the  subjoined  list  will  be  found  serviceable  in  the  selection 
of  such  as  are  most  popular  and  least  changeable. 

Materials  of  inferior  quality  should  never  be  chosen. 
Labor  expended  on  them  never  pays.  The  fabrics,  of  what- 
ever material,  should  be  firm,  well  woven,  and  devoid  of 
irregularities.  Inexpensive  stuffs,  when  suitably  treated 
and  used  for  appropriate  purposes,  are  just  as  desirable  as 
more  costly  ones. 

Flax  Cloth. — Unbleached  brown  linen  is  often  used  for 
chair  covers,  doylies,  etc. 

Canton  Flannel, — Now  known  as  Fashion  Drapery,  is 
used  very  much.  It  is  double  width,  and  may  be  found  in 
a  varietv  of  shades. 

Morale  Cloth — Is  fifty  inches  wide,  made  of  both  cotton 
and  wool,  and  varies  from  one  to  three  dollars  per  yard. 

Upholstery  Felts — Are  now  much  used  instead  of  cloth 
for  curtains,  table-covers,  lambrequins,  portieres,  etc.  It  is 
easy  to  work  upon,  and  is  made  in  a  variety  of  beautiful 
shades,  presenting  the  appearance  of  fine  cloth  at  much 
less  cost.     Two  yards  wide,  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  yard. 

Bolton  Sheeting — Is  of  a  beautiful  cream  color,  and 
improves  with  washing.  It  is  much  uspd  in  embroidery,  and 
comes  in  very  wide  widths  at  one  dollar  per  yard. 

Plashes — Are  costly  materials.  Cardinal,  old  gold,  and 
peacock  blue  are  the  standard  colors  of  this  material ;  but  a 
variety  of  other  tints  can  be  found.     A  beautiful  new  style  is 


232  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Ombree  plush,  shaded  gradually  from  one  side  of  the  piece  to 
the  other,  producing  a  charming  effect  in  screens,  panels,  or 
anything  which  is  of  sufficient  size  to  show  the  shading. 
Single  width  is  four  dollars  and  a  half  per  yard,  and  up- 
ward. 

Satin — Is  furnished  in  a  variety  of  beautiful  colors,  and 
is  of  great  width,  selling  at  six  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per 
yard.     Embroidery  satin  is  known  as  Furniture  Satin. 

Crewels — Are  made  in  all  desirable  tints.  Fast  colors, 
however,  are  found  only  in  the  best  quality  of  crewels. 
These  can  be  cleaned  without  fading,  and  are  therefore  espe- 
cially for  working  on  linen  and  flannel.  In  using  crewel, 
it  should  be  cut  into  short  lengths,  as  long  needlefuls  pull 
the  design  out  of  shape. 

Arasene — Is  a  kind  of  chenille,  rich  in  appearance,  and 
producing  good  effects.  The  work  is  done  in  the  same  way 
as  with  crewel,  except  that  after  working,  the  outlines  are 
traced  over  with  tinsel  or  gold  cord,  which  adds  greatly  to 
the  clearness  and  beauty  of  the  design. 

Embroidery  Silks — Include  several  kinds;  as,  bobbin 
silk,  purse  silk,  filoselle,  all  differing  in  quality  and  texture, 
— bobbin  silk  being  used  for  satin,  silk,  or  any  fine  material. 
Filoselle  is  manufactured  of  inferior  silks,  and  hence  costs 
less  than  purse  and  bobbin  silk. 

Beads. — Cut  steel  beads,  colored  with  transparent  lac- 
quers, allowing  the  metallic  luster  of  the  beads  to  show 
through,  are  one  of  the  latest  novelties  in  needle- work.  A 
silk  or  linen  thread  is  used  to  string  them  on,  as  many  beads 
being  strung  on  at  each  stitch  as  are  necessary  to  give  it  the 
desired  length.  As  they  are  made  of  many  colors,  the  work 
can  be  very  accurately  shaded,  the  same  stitch  showing 
several  shades. 


CxFI^F'TRK     "V. 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES. — DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  BEST  STEM 
STITCH. — BLANKET  STITCH.  —  CHAIN  STITCHES.  —  HER- 
RING-BONE, BUTTON  HOLE,  AND  SATIN  STITCH. — KEN- 
SINGTON OUTLINE. — JANINA. — BLANKET. — DESIGN  FOR 
BORDERS  AND  CENTERS. — THE  NEW  PLUSH  STITCH. 


-~<li«<c 


HE  best  authorities  agree  that  for  embroidery  the 
simpler  and  fewer  the  stitches  the  better.  Of 
course,  the  number  and  character  of  the  stitches 
depend  upon  the  design  to  be  made,  some  designs 
being  so  elaborate  as  to  require  no  small  amount 
of  work. 

Stem  or  Tent  Stitch,—  Which  is  the  simplest 
stitch  for  beginners,  consists  of  a  single  long 
stitch  taken  forward,  followed  by  a  shorter  one 
backward,  thus  alternating,  a  long  one  forward 
and  a  short  one  backward,  only  the  long  stitch 
showing  in  the  work. 

Blanket  Stitch— Is  exactly  like  the  ordinary 

button-hole  stitch,  and  is  used 

in  edging  materials.     A  very 


Borders  in  Button-hole.  Embossed  Button-hole,  or  Blanket 

pretty  effect  is  made  by  varying  the  length  of  the  stitches, 
or  sloping  them  in  many  directions.  [233] 


234         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Chain  Stitch. 

Twisted  Chain  Stitch. 
lar  to  the  foregoing,  the 
needle,  however,  being 
set  to  the  left  instead  of 
into  the  preceding  stitch. 
This  stitch  can  be  varied 
by  setting  the  needle  far- 
ther to  the  left,  and  ex- 
tending its  length,  when 
we  have  what  is  called 
the   Vine  Chain  Stitch. 


Chain  Stitch.— This 
old-fashioned  stitch  is 
quite  popular  for  fasten- 
ing down  the  edges  of  ap- 
plique work,  embroider- 
ing mats,  etc.  Our  il- 
lustration sufficiently  ex- 
plains the  method  of 
making  the  stitch. 

This  is  made  in  a  manner  simi- 


Twisted  Chain  Stitch. 


Satin  Stitch. — Our  illustration  of  this  stitch  gives  a  very 

good  idea  of  the  way  to 
work  it.  It  is  very  pop- 
ular, and  suitable  for 
work  with  flosses,  em- 
broidery silks,  zephyrs, 
and  crewels.  The  de- 
sign is  stamped  on  the 
goods,  and  the  whole 
filled  in  well  with  silk  or 
worsted,  before  the  real 
embroidery  is  begun. 
Care  must  be  taken  to 
have  the  edges  even. 
It  is  really  an  over-and- 
over  stitch,  the  work  ap- 
pearing nearly  alike  on 
Satin  Stitch.  both  sides. 


HERRING- BONE  STl  TCli. 


235 


Knot  Stitck. — This  stitch 
is  useful  in  making  the  center 
of  flowers  and  the  ends  of  sta- 
mens. The  needle  is  brought 
through,  and  the  floss  wound 
about  it  one  or  more  times, 
when  it  is  again  thrust  through 
the  material  very  near  where  it 
was  brought  up. 


Herring-bone  Stitch. 


Herring-Bone  Stitch. — This  is  a  very  popular  stitch,  as 
it  makes  a  good  appearance,  and  is  adapted  to  a  wide  range 

of  work.  It  is  es- 
pecially appropriate 
for  joining  seams, 
taking  the  place  of 
the  unsightly  ridge 
made  by  a  fell.  The 
twoillustrationso-ive 
a  clear  idea  of  the 
method  of  making 
this  stitch,  the  larger 
showing1  one  varia- 
fcion  for  ornamental 
effect. 


Herring-bone  Stitch. 


Design  for  a 
Border.  —  The 
design  for  a  cor- 
ner will  assist 
in  understand- 
ing this.  The 
rings  and  the 
diamonds  are 
made  of  three 
threads  of  dif- 
ferent shades, 
while  the  an- 
gles are  con- 
cealed by  gold- 
colored    silk, 


trnfst^jsjswnw 


5?S5SSSS*S*Bt 
SSSSSSSSS 

twrnvm 

f»SSJ*J 


SSSJSSSS      . 


.    S««SSM 


..  1       .        x  v.    f.»»j! 

-SSSX».Sn8.W  «.»,**$«£»<•« 

SSSiSSSSiS 


Design  for  a  Border. 


236 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


button-holed  along  the  inside  next  to  the  inner  thread.  The 
stars  in  the  center  are  made  of  the  several  shades  used  in 
working  the  rings. 

Kensington  Out- 
line Stitch. — This  is 
now  the  stitch  for  em- 
broidery work.  The 
stem  stitch  is  in  re- 
ality the  same,  only 
the  unbroken  outline 
of  the  design  is  made 
with  now  and  then  a 
stroke  representing 
the  veins  of  leaves 
and  folds  of  drapery. 
Satin  is  the  favorite 
goods  for  this  stitch, 
and    foliage,    butter- 


Kensington  Outline  Stitch. 


flies,  and  animals  are 
favorite  designs. 


Janina  Stitch. 
general  outline; 
but  the  pattern 
is  not  filled  in 
before  begin- 
ning to  em- 
broider, and  the 
work  shows 
only  on  one 
side,  excepting 
where  the  short 
back  stitch  oc- 
curs along  the 
outline.  The 
needle  should  be 
set  at  the  next 
to  the  last  stitch, 
as  shown  in  the 


-This  resembles  the  satin  stitch  in  its 


Janina  Stitch. 


DESIGX  FOR    A    CORNER. 


237 


cut.     It  is  suitable  for  any  purpose  where  a  surface  stitch 
is  required,  such  as  table  covers  and  toilet  articles. 

Basket  Stitch  -The 
engraving  presents 
the  method  of  mak- 
ing this  stitch  very 
clearly.  Begin  the 
work  at  the  bottom, 
and  work  from  you. 
It  is  a  very  fine  stitch 
for  borders  and  the 
like. 


Basket  Stitch. 


Feather  Stitch. 


Feather  Stitch.  —  The 
cut  very  clearly  illustrates 
the  method  of  working  one 
variety  of  feather  stitch. 
It  is  worked  in  two  colors, 
and  the  effect  is  very  pretty 
indeed. 


Design  for    a 
Corner  or  Cente  r- 
2>iece. — This    de- 
sign   may    be 
worked  in  a  cor- 
ner, or  it  may  be 
one-fourth   of    a 
center-piece.  The 
/jor-zag1  edges  can 
be  made  of  three 
shades    of   red, 
the  darkest  at  the 
inner  edge.     The 
outer  points  to  be 
crossed  with  vel- 
low,  and  the  in- 
ner   with   four 
shades  of    blue. 


Design  for  a  Corner. 


238  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

From  each  of  the  inner  points,  two  shades  of  blue  and  one 
of  gold  color,  are  carried  to  a  point.  The  balance  of  the  de- 
sign can  be  worked  from  the  engraving.  Crewels  or  silks 
may  be  used,  or  a  combination  of  both  will  look  better. 

A  New  Stitch. — The  most  decided  novelty  in  art  em- 
broidery, and  one  that  has  a  permanent  value,  is  the  intro- 
duction of  the  plush  stitch.  By  its  use  sumac,  cockscomb, 
golden  rod,  love  lies  bleeding,  princess  feather,  and  similar 
flowers,  which  were  previously  very  imperfectly  represented 
by  a  bunch  of  French  knots,  are  closely  imitated  in  texture 
as  well  as  coloring. 

To  make  it,  first  fill  in  the  flower  with  large  French 
knots  of  the  prevailing  color ;  then  (using  button-hole  twist) 
bring  the  needle  up  between  the  knots,  lay  a  doubled  strand 
of  filling  silk  on  the  face  of  the  work  against  the  needle ; 
take  the  needle  down  about  in  the  same  place  it  came  up, 
but  from  the  other  side  of  the  filling  silk,  so  that  when 
drawn  down  the  stitch  has  caught  the  filling  silk  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  from  its  end  ;  draw  the  stitch  down 
tightly,  which  will  cause  the  ends  of  the  filling  silk  to 
spring  straight  up ;  clip  them  off  with  a  very  sharp  pair  of 
scissors.  This  completes  one  stitch.  Repeat  for  as  many 
stitches  as  are  required  to  cover,  or  nearly  cover,  the  knots. 

It  is  not  easily  described,  but  with  a  little  practice  is 
easily  and  rapidly  done;  and  with  taste  and  judgment  in  the 
clipping  and  in  the  number  of  stitches  used,  so  as  to  partly, 
but  not  completely,  cover  the  background  of  knots,  charm- 
ingly realistic  effects  are  produced. 

In  the  cockscomb,  for  instance,  the  upper  part,  or  comb, 
is  a  rich,  velvety  crimson.  This  should  be  worked  with  the 
stitches  very  close,  and  clipped  quite  long,  the  convolutions 
of  the  comb  being  represented  by  using  three  shades  of  crim- 


DESIGN  FOR  BANNER  SCREEN  239 

son.  As  each  stitch  may  be  made  different,  the  shading  can 
be  perfectly  done. 

The  lower  part,  from  the  stem  up  to  the  comb,  shows 
the  green  seeds,  with  a  thin  sprinkling  of  the  velvety  down. 

This  is  imitated  by  making  the  knots  of  dead  green  crewel 
and  a  few  plush  stitches  interspersed,  using  a  single  thread 


Fig.  41. 

■ 

of  the  floss  made  of  filaments  of  red  and  green.  Clip  these 
a  little  closer  than  in  the  comb,  and  use  more  red  toward 
the  comb.  This,  when  skillfully  done,  imitates  the  flower 
beautifully  and  faithfully,  in  striking  contrast  to  the  hard, 


240  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

knotted    abominations  of   most  of  the  "  Art  Schools."     It 
only  need  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

Fig.  41  presents  a  very  pretty  design  for  a  banner 
screen  in  which  the  cockscomb  is  treated  in  the  plush  stitch. 

Designs  and  Stamping. 

The  question  of  making  original  designs  for  embroidery, 
while  of  importance,  is  too  difficult  for  amateurs.  Those 
who  are  naturally  ingenious  will  be  able  to  construct  their 
own  designs,  or  modify  those  already  made  to  suit  their  own 
convenience. 

The  method  of  getting  the  design  stamped  depends  upon 
the  nature  and  color  of  the  material.  For  light  material, 
the  design  may  be  first  drawn  or  traced  upon  tissue-paper ; 
next  place  a  sheet  of  carbonized  paper  under  the  tissue- 
paper  and  upon  the  material,  and  go  over  the  design  with  a 
sharp  pencil  or  a  dull  needle,  when  it  will  be  found  trans- 
ferred to  the  fabric  in  minute  dots  of  black.  If  carbonized 
paper  is  not  to  be  had,  make  it,  by  slightly  oiling  one  side 
of  thick  tissue-paper  and  scraping  fine  pencil  dust  upon  the 
oiled  surface,  being  careful  to  remove  all  the  surplus  of  pen- 
cil dust  with  a  soft  rag. 

Where  the  design  is  to  be  transferred  to  a  dark  material, 
it  must  be  done  by  pouncing.  First  draw  the  design  upon 
thick  paper,  and  then  prick  the  ou  times  through  the  paper 
with  a  pin  or  needle,  or  if  it  be  large,  on  a  sewing-machine 
with  an  unthreaded  needle;  now  place  the  design,  face 
downward,  and  go  over  it  with  a  pounce  bag  made  of  mus- 
lin and  filled  with  starch,  stamping  powder,  or  pipe-clay 
powdered.  Remove  the  pattern  and  touch  up  the  design 
with  a  solution  of  pipe-clay  or  other  coloring  matter  not  in- 
i  urious  to  the  fabric. 


DESIGNS  AND  STAMPING.  241 

In  all  cases,  however,  where  it  is  practicable,  the  stamp- 
ing should  be  done  by  one  who  knows  how,  thus  avoid- 
ing the  annoyance  and  danger  of  damaging  the  material. 

Applique,  or  Cut-  Work, — Has  been  divided  into  two 
kinds,  in-laid  and  on-laid.  Inlaid  work  consists  in  cut- 
ting the  same  pattern  from  two  materials  and  fitting  one 
into  the  other,  much  after  the  fashion  of  inlaid  scroll-sa  w 
work,  and  fastening  the  inlaid  part  with  embroidery  silk. 
Onlaid  work  differs  from  the  foregoing  in  this  particular: 
The  pattern  is  cut  out  from  several  stuffs,  and  then  fastened 
upon  another  material  with  paste,  after  which  the  edges  are 
sewed  down  with  silk. 

To  those  unacquainted  with  the  work,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  explain  that  the  pattern,  as  prepared,  is  basted  on 
the  foundation  to  which  it  is  to  be  applied,  and  all  the  edges 
of  the  colored  felt  pieces  are  caught  down  in  button-hole  or 
couching  stitch  with  filling  floss  or  embroidery  silks  of  suit- 
able shades.  Any  lines  inside  the  figures,  such  as  the  veins 
of  leaves,  are  worked  in  stem  stitch;  and  small  leaves,  stems, 
etc.,  outside  the  figures,  are  worked  in  embroidery  stitches  or 
herring-bone  stitch.  The  paper  of  the  pattern  is  then  torn 
away,  which  is  facilitated  by  slightly  moistening  it,  and  the 
design  remains  on  the  foundation.  The  work  is  rapidly  and 
easily  done,  and  when  the  newer  and  more  tasty  designs  are 
used,  the  effect  is  remarkably  good. 

Draivn  Work — Consists  in  drawing  out  the  threads  of 
linen  and  working  in  patterns  with  fancy  stitches.  It  is 
very  popular,  and  elaborate  designs  are  now  made,  by  this 
method,  although  the  work  is  very  trying  to  the  eyes. 

Embroidery  Frames — Are  made  something  after  the 
fashion  of  quilting  frames.  Care  must  be  taken  to  stretch 
the  material  firmly  and  evenly. 

16 


Ghaptrr   VI. 


PRACTICAL  DESIGNS. — EMBROIDERY  PATTERNS. — AN  ELEGANT 
PINCUSHION. — SILK  COUNTERPANE  AND  COVER. — TAT- 
TED  DOYLEY. — DESIGN   FOR   LINEN    EMBROIDERY. 


-~o>«Xc 


MBROIDERY  PATTERNS.— The  two  borders, 
Figs.  42  and  43,  will  be  suitable  for  orna- 
menting children's  frocks,  aprons,  etc.  They 
may  be  worked  with  silk,  crewel,  or  cotton, 
according  to  the  material.  Holland  or  alpaca 
aprons  look  well  with  borders  of  this  kind, 
worked  with  andalusian  or  Shetland  wool. 

Embroidered  Pincushion. 

The  ornamental  pincushion,  Fig.  44,  is  made  on  a 
circular  cushion  six  inches  in  diameter,  the  bottom 
being  of  thick  pasteboard,  the  sides  of  strong  calico,  and  the 
stuffing  of  bran.  Cover  the  bottom  with  calico,  sew  a  strip 
of  calico  six  inches  wide  round  the  edge,  draw  up  the  other 
side  of  the  calico  strip  so  as  to  hold  the  bran,  and  stitch  a 
small  round  piece  of  calico  over  the  gathers.  Then  take 
two  strips  of  blue  silk,  two  inches  wide,  and  pinked  on  one 
side;   one  strip  must  be  fifty-two,  and  the  other  thirty-six 

[242] 


EMBROIDERY  PATTERNS. 


243 


^OtfO 


Fig.  43- 


Fig.  42. 


244 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


inches  long;  plait  up  the  long  strip  into  sixteen  double 
plaits,  the  other  strip  into  eight  plaits,  and  sew  them  on  the 
the  cushion  according  to  illustration.  Now  cut  out  the  star- 
shaped  figure  in  white  cloth,  pinking  out  the  edges,  and  em- 


Fig.  44- 


broider  the  design  with  colored  braid  and  silk,  and  fasten 
it  to  the  top  of  the  cushion,  so  that* the  points  of  the  star  tit 
in  between  the  plaits  of  the  silk. 

Silk  Counterpanes. 

Fig.  45  shows  a  quilted  counterpane  with  the  cover 
trimmed  with  neat  embroidery.  The  inside  may  be  of  any 
desired  color  of  silk,  quilted  in  a  variety  of  designs. 

Fig.  46  is  another  style  of  cover,  the  edges  being  cut  to 
form  little  tabs  which  button  over  the  quilt.     The  space  be- 


SILK  COUNTER  PA  NES. 


245 


Fig.  45- 


Fig.  4& 


246 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


tween  the  tabs  may  be  filled  with  lace  plaited,  as  in  the  cut, 
or  with  embroidery. 


Fig-  47- 


Tatted  Doyley. 

The  tatted  doyley  shown  in  our  illustration,  Fig.  47,  is  so 
distinctly  marked  that  it  does  not  need  an  explanation  to  those 
skilled  in  the  use  of  the  shuttle.  The  tatting,  which  is  com- 
posed of  double  and  pearl  stitches,  should  be  worked  as  seen 


LINEN  EMBROIDERY. 


247 


in  the  illustration,  with  No.  6  cotton,  and  the  spider's  web 
in  No.  16.  The  design  would  be  equally  suitable  for  a 
baby's  cap  crown,  or  it  might  be  used  for  a  flower 
stand    mat. 


Fig.  48. 


Linen  Embroidery. 

Fig.  48  is  an  illustration  of  a  tidy  made  of  the  new  style 
of  embroidery  on  linen  crash.  Old  ladies  whose  sight  is  fail- 
ing will  find  this  very  agreeable  work.  The  stars  should  be 
worked  in  two  shades  of  bright  zephyr,  while  the  division 
lines  between  the  figures  should  be  made  of  narrow  black 
velvet,  crossed  with  "herring-bone"  stitch  in  gold-colored 


248 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


silk.  Almost  all  damask  toweling  is  suitable  for  this  work, 
but  the  unbleached  gray  and  buff,  covered  with  stars, 
diamonds,  or  butterflies,  will  be  found  most  satisfactory. 
Shaker  rocking-chairs  and  hassocks  cushioned  with  this  em- 
broidery are  quite  fashionable  and  are  really  very  handsome. 


CLxFIAf^trr   VEf . 


SOME  ELEGANT  DESIGNS.  —  EMBROIDERED  ROCKING-CHAIR 
COVER. — A  WORK-APRON. — DESIGNS  FOR  ELEGANT  GLASS 
MIRRORS. NEW  STYLE  OF  SPLASHER. — BEAD  EMBROID- 
ERED NEWS  RACK.— HANDSOME  TABLE  COVER. — A  PIANO 
SCARF    IN   PLUSH   APPLIQUE   WORK. 


-«J»iOo- 


LEGANT  rocking-chair  cover. — The  very  ele- 
gant rocking-chair  shown  in  Fig.  49  is  uphol- 
stered in  hair  and  covered  with  silk  plush  of  fche 
peculiar  shade  called  "drakesneck,"  a  sort  of 
bluish -green  of  a  deep,  rich  shade,  which  forms  a 
most  exquisite  background  for  the  sprays  of  wild 
rose  so  perfectly  embroidered  on  the  seat  and 
back  in  silk  filoselle,  and  the  leaves  having  that 
tinge  of  brown  and  red  mingled  with  dull  green 
so  often  seen  in  the  growing  bush.  The  arms 
and  front  of  the  chair  are  finished  with  silk  gimp 
to  match,  and  silk  fringe  of  the  same  shade  as  the  plush,  re- 
lieved by  pink  silk  double  ruffs  at  intervals.  The  back  is 
covered  with  pink  plush,  and  the  whole  forms  a  most  beau- 
tiful chair  and  one  that  will  not  be  ruined  by  reasonable 


use. 


[2491 


250 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


A  Pretty  Work-Apron. 

A  pretty  little  work-apron  is  shown  in  Fig.  50,  made  of 
a  yard  of  pongee  silk,  18  inches  wide,  embroidered  in  etching 
silk,  the  design  being  that  old  conundrum  of 

' '  How  doth  the  little  busy  bee 
Improve  each  shining  hour?" 


4 


Fig.  50. 

Another  design  often  used  instead,  represents  a  little  girl 
plucking  the  petals  of  a  daisy,  with  the  words 

"  I  do  n't  care  what  the  daisies  say, 
I  know  I'll  be  married  some  fine  day. " 

After  the  embroidery  is  done,  a  hem  is  turned  all  around 
and  neatly  hemstitched,  the  lower  end  turned  up  to  form  a 
pocket,  and  the   apron  finished  with  bows  of  silk  ribbon. 


DESIGN  FOR  HAIR  RECEIVER. 


251 


They  will  wash   perfectly,    and    make   charming   presents 
for  girls. 


r'g-   5 


Hair  Receiver. 

Fig.  51  is  a  novel  and  pretty  hair  and  hair-pin  receiver, 
made  of  No.  12  satin  ribbon  of  two  colors  interwoven  in  a 


252  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

sort  of  checker-board  pattern,  as  seen  in  the  engraving.  A 
piece  of  card-board  in  the  center  forms  a  partition,  on  one 
side  of  which  is  a  crocheted  cushion  of  split  zephyr  to  receive 
the  hair-pins,  the  other  side  being  left  as  a  hair  receiver. 
The  whole  is  bound  with  satin  and  finished  at  the  upper 
edge  with  quilled  ribbon,  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  The 
fringe  seen  just  below  the  quilled  ribbon  is  made  by  fringing 
about  two  inches  of  the  ends  of  the  ribbons. 

Glass  Mirrors. 

An  elegant  addition  to  almost  any  room  is  one  of  the 
beveled  glass  mirrors  shown  in  Figs.  52  and  53.  The  frame 
is  of  pine  or  whitewood  and  covered  with  silk  plush  embroid- 
ered with  arasene  or  with  silk  floss,  arasene  being  much  the 
best  as  the  colors  are  better  and  the  general  effect  more  rich. 
The  cuts  show  two  very  different  designs, — one  a  vine  of 
wild  clematis,  and  the  other  a  spray  of  dogwood ;  the  former 
worked  on  deep  Indian-red  plush,  and  the  latter  on  a  very 
dark  olive-green.  They  can  be  made  of  various  sizes,  but 
10x10  or  12x12  for  the  glass  is  generally  preferred.  They 
are  quite  different  in  appearance  from  the  painted  frames  so 
abundant  in  the  stores,  and  which  are  usually  very  poor 
specimens  of  amateur  art. 

A  New  Style  Splasher. 

Splashers  are  not  very  new,  but  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  54 
is  so  far  superior  to  the  ordinary  splasher  as  to  merit  descrip- 
tion. It  is  made  expressly  for  the  purpose,  being  woven 
with  a  band  of  open-work  all  around  and  a  sewed  fringe  on 
the  four  sides.  The  material  is  linen  momie  cloth.  Along 
the  upper  edge  at  the  back,  five  loops  of  tape  are  sewed, 


Fig.  52. 


Fig-  53- 


Fig-   55- 


DESIGN  FOB  SPLASHER 


253 


through  which  a  brass  or  wooden  rod  is  passed  and  seemed 
to  the  wall  by  brass  screw-eyes.  One  end  of  the  rod  is 
made  to  slip  off  so  that  the  splasher  is  easily  removed  to  be 


mm 


Fig.  54- 


washed,  and  replaced  again  without  the  usual  damage  to  the 

wall  by  tacking, 

pretty. 


The  designs  on  them  are  also  new  and 


A  News  Rack. 

Fig.  55  is  a  news  rack  in  bead  embroidery.  The  frame 
is  of  gilded  wood,  and  the  foundation  for  the  embroider}'  is 
of  deep  maroon  silk  plush.  The  design  of  maple  leaves  is 
embroidered  in  metal  beads  in  various  shades  of  olive-green 
and  brown,  red-brown  and  yellow.  The  work  is  done  very 
much  the  same  as  crewel  work,  a  silk  thread  being  used, 
and  the  beads  strung  on  four  or  five  at  a  time  to  form  a  long 
or  short  stitch  and  of  such  colors  as  required.  The  beads  can 
be  procured  of  every  color. 


254  OUS  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Three-Cornered  Table. 

Fig.  56  represents  a  three-cornered  table,  the  frame  of 
which  is  of  gilded  wood.  The  top  is  covered  with  shaded 
blue  plush,  ornamented  with  a  spray  of  wild  clematis,  em- 
broidered in  beads,  the  flowers  in  steel,  and  the  leaves  in 
cut-gold.     The   sides  are  draped  with  shaded   blue   plush, 


Fig.  56. 


caught  up  in  the  center  of  each  side  by  a  large  silk  pompon 
from  which  depend  soft  silk  ball  tassels.  Long  "  horse-tail " 
tassels  of  twisted  silk  of  a  Terra  Cotta  shade,  are  hung:  at 
each  corner.  A  large  bow  of  shaded  satin  ribbon,  tied  taste- 
fully at  one  corner  where  the  flower  stems  begin,  completes 
this  very  pretty  table. 


DESIGN  FOR  PIANO  SCARF.  955 

Applique  Piano  Scarf. 

Fig.  57  is  a  piano  scarf  for  an  upright  in  the  new  Mo- 
saic embroidery,  or  plush  applique  work.  The  ground  is  of 
lava  gray  plush  and  the  design  of  autumn  leaves  is  cut  out 
of  a  variety  of  shades  of  plush,  each  half  leaf  being  a  sepa- 
rate piece  and  different  shade.  The  pieces  of  plush  are  first 
pasted  down  on  a  foundation  of  crinoline,  and  when  dry, 
cut  out  neatly  with  very  sharp  scissors  and  gummed  to  the 
plush  foundation.  The  edges  are  then  sewed  down  firmly 
with  silk  of  the  same  shades  as  the  plushes. 

The  neglect  of  this  sewing  down  is  what  has  caused 
many  to  regard  Mosaic  work  as  lacking  in  durability ;  but 
if  the  edges  are  well  sewed  down  they  will  not  fray  or 
ravel  out.  After  sewing  down,  the  edges  are  concealed  by 
a  gold  or  tinsel  cord  caught  down  in  couching  stitches. 
A  few  stitches  of  chenille  of  darker  shade  than  the  plush 
it  is  used  on,  are  added  to  show  the  veining  of  the  leaves. 
A  very  pretty  way  of  adjusting  the  scarf  is  to  bring  up 
the  embroidered  end,  throwing  it  over  from  the  back,  and 
letting  it  hang  over  the  front  of  the  piano. 

The  work  is  very  easily  and  quickly  done  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  preparation  of  the  pattern,  which  requires 
a  variety  of  odd  shades  of  plush  not  easily  obtained  by  the 
amateur,  and  without  which  the  work  loses  much  of  its 
beauty.  The  patterns,  however,  can  be  procured  already 
prepared  on  crinoline  at  any  of  the  first-class  fancy-work 
establishments  in  most  of  the  large  cities.  They  can  be 
easily  transferred  to  any  foundation  by  moistening  the 
crinoline  to  soften  the  £um. 

A  handsome  table  scarf  in  "  darned  work  "  is  shown  in 


256  OUM  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


F«.  57- 


DESIGN  FOR  TABLE  SCARF. 


2.")  7 


Fig."  5 8.  The  body  of  the  scarf  is  of  ecru  plush.  The  orna- 
mentation is  of  alternate  squares  of  ecru  satin,  darned  in  a 
geometric  pattern  in  colored  embroidery  silk  in  a  variety  of 


Fig.  58. 


stitches,  and  squares  of  old  blue  plush,  with  a  small  spray 

embroidered  in  gold  and  steel  beads.     The  ends  are  finished 

with  silk  fringe  and  four  large  tassels  to  correspond  with  the 

satin  and  plush. 

17 


258 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


It  is  impossible  in  an  engraving  to  do  justice  to  this 
work,  the  rich,  deep  tints  of  which  plush  alone  is  capable 
of  exhibiting,  being  quite  lost  when  represented  by  printer's 
ink.  Some  of  the  specimens  are  exquisite,  and  by  many 
would  be  preferred  to  the  most  elaborate  embroidery. 


CxFIAFTRK.     VIII. 


HANGINGS  FOR  DOORS,  HALLS,  AND  WINDOWS. — HOW  TO 
MAKE  THEM,  AND  OF  WHAT  TO  MAKE  THEM. — ELEGANT 
EFFECTS  AT  SMALL  COST. — HOW  TO  USE  THE  ODDS  AND 
ENDS  IN  RENDERING  THE  HOUSE  MORE  BEAUTIFUL. — 
COST   OF   MATERIALS. 


@22 


ol*<c 


ORTIERES.  —  A  beautiful  room  is  far  more 
«  beautiful  when  there  is  no  square  means  of  egress 
pA^^si  suggesting  the  unpleasant  idea  of  departure. 
Where,  however,  the  means  are  limited,  one 
pretty  portiere  covering,  or  replacing  an  ugly 
door,  or  curtaining  an  outside  one,  gives  an  air 
of  taste  and  elegance.  Midway  in  a  hall,  as  in 
the  case  of  an  outer  door,  drafts  are  prevented 
by  a  heavy  fall  of  drapery. 

They  should  not  repeat  the  curtains  of  the 
room,    but   represent   a   separate   idea,    though 
iu    harmony  with  the   room.      They  are  frequently  made 
double  to  correspond  with  rooms  of  different  colors. 

At  the  end  of  a  long  room  in  a  friend's  house  there  was 
a  door  with  glass  at  the  top,  useful  in  dark  days  but  making 
an  ugly  cross  light  with  the  windows  of  the  room.     The 

[259J 


260  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

lady  of  the  house  dreamed  of  rich  stuffs  while  she  pieced, 
out  of  olive  cotton  flannel,  four  bands  of  cretonne  in  a  flower 
pattern,  two  narrow  and  two  wide,  and  a  piece  of  worsted 
goods  flowered  on  the  right  side  but  striped  on  the  wrong, 
none  of  it  new, — a  portiere  which  has  been  taken  for  some- 
thing rich  and  strange,  and  much  admired. 

The  lining  was  some  old  calico  cut  a  little  wider  than 
the  door.  At  the  bottom  was  a  horizontal  strip  of  the  olive 
cotton  flannel,  then  a  wide  band  of  cretonne,  then  the  striped 
(wrong  side)  goods  placed  perpendicularly,  then  a  narrow 
band  of  cretonne,  then  the  center  of  olive  cotton  flannel 
with  the  stripes  repeated  toward  the  top. 

Old  Blue  Blankets. 

Another  friend  had  a  bare,  cheap,  new  cottage.  Money 
was  not  abundant.  Old  grandmother-woven  indigo-blue 
woolen  blankets  were.  She  began  sewing  in  little  figures, 
— stars,  crescents,  and  odd  stitches  in  colored  silks, — and 
the  woolen  blanket  became  a  gorgeous  fabric.  It  was  hung 
with  wooden  rings  on  a  length  of  gilded  gas  pipe  midway 
of  the  bare  hall,  and  your  first  impressions  on  entering  were 
of  Eastern  richness.  The  double  blanket  was  more  than 
enough  (heavy  materials  must  hang  nearly  plain),  and  a 
piano  cover  and  traveling  bag  came  out  of  the  pieces.  The 
embroidery  was  the  work  of  time,  but  it  was  also  a  work  of 
delight. 

Portiere  of  Chinese  Embroidery. 

On  the  contrary,  a  New  York  friend,  with  the  large 
opportunities  and  splendid  economy  of  rich  people,  bought, 
at  one  quarter  the  original  price,  four  Chinese  embroidered 


SILK  RAG  AND  INGRAIN  CARPETS.  201 

dress  patterns,  giving  "only  one  hundred  dollars  for  them." 
With  great  skill  she  combined  them  in  one  rich  portiere  for  a 
large  double  door. 


lov 


Silk  Rag  Carpet. 

Portieres,  as  well  as  curtains,  have  been  made  of  silk  rag 
carpets, — yes,  nothing  more  or  less !  Old  silks,  even  soiled 
and  faded,  are  cut  in  strips  as  for  carpet,  and  either  woven 
with  cotton  warp,  or  better  still,  knitted  upon  fine  ivory 
needles  in  stripes  and  tastefully  joined  together.  If  one  can 
be  content  to  use  only  things  otherwise  worthless,  this  may 
be  desirable;  but  the  temptation  is  great  to  cut  up  what 
might  be  turned  to  better  account. 


*&' 


Ingrain  Carpet. 

Another  portiere  we  have  seen  is  a  great  and  lasting 
success,  for  it  is  of  solid  wool  which  in  fifty  years  will  still 
be  firm  of  texture  and  pleasing  in  color.  It  is  fine  ingrain 
carpet  of  beautiful  olive  color,  quite  plain.  It  can  be  bought 
in  a  great  variety  of  colors,  but  olive  and  crimson  have  the 
advantage  of  fading  handsomely. 

Down  one  side  of  each  breadth  (there  were  four,  for  it 
covered  the  space  between  rooms  where  there  had  been 
double  doors)  was  worked  in  Germantown  wool, — a  pattern 
which  was  adopted  from  a  Turkish  rug.  The  pattern  was 
outlined  in  black  and  filled  in  with  red,  pale  blue,  white, 
and  a  little  gold-colored  filoselle.  The  effect  was  so  good  and 
the  material  so  durable  that  a  great  comfortable  sofa  with 
three  cushions  received  a  new  dress  of  the  same,  and  the 
children  play  on  the  tough  material  unreproved. 

Let  me  here  suggest  that  all  decoration  in  homes  where 


262  01722  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

there  are  children  to  be  thought  of  (alas !  for  those  homes 
where  there  are  none)  should  be  of  firm,  excellent,  unfading 
quality  in  accordance  with  the  loving  spirit  of  Mary,  and 
not  cultivating  the  anxious  one  of  her  sister.  The  reward, 
as  in  all  right-doing,  will  be  greater  than  you  expect,  for 
your  decoration  will  be  better  and  in  nobler  taste. 

The  Dove  Portiere. 

Still  another  portiere.  The  idea  came  from  nature's 
enchanting  harmony  in  an  ordinary  pigeon's  colors, — one  of 
the  dove-tinted,  blue-green  sort.  The  material  to  harmonize 
with  a  light  and  "smiling"  drawing-room  was  of  heavy, 
all-wool  material,  known  as  diagonal-cloth  in  a  soft  dove 
color.  It  was  lined  with  pale  pink  silesia.  A  border  of 
"  crazy  quilt "  (see  discription  of  crazy  or  Japanese  quilt 
under  chapter  on  screens)  done  in  blue,  green,  and  dove 
colors,  and  faint  gleams  of  rose,  was  laid  on  at  top  and 
bottom. 

Velveteen. 

Velveteen  is  a  desirable  material  for  either  portieres  or 
curtains.  Plush  is  the  richest  material  in  use.  In  one 
drawing-room  we  have  seen  the  wide  doors  from  the  hall 
and  library  filled  by  portieres  of  plush,  peacock-blue  on  one 
side  and  crimson  on  the  other,  without  decoration.  The 
effect  was  very  rich,  but  one's  limitations  are  often  sugges- 
tive, and  where  there  are  limitations  there  are  apt  to  be 
more  ideas,  and  the  charm  of  an  idea  wrought  into  form  is 
always  greater  than  the  mere  impression  of  richness. 

Smyrna  Blankets,  Prayer  Carpets. 

Very  odd  portieres  are  brought  home  by  travelers  from 
the  East,  and  imported  in  great  quantities.     Stripes  of  odd 


CURTAINS  AND  PRICES.  263 

woolen  stuff,  loosely  caught  together  by  coarse  woolen  cord, 
and  embroidered  evidently  by  hand,  odd  combinations  of  red, 
black,  and  white  can  be  seen  in  fashionable  houses.  "  Prayer 
Carpets,"  not  being  needed,  are  hung  up  on  doors  or  walls. 

Curtains. 

In  furnishing  throughout,  the  curtains  and  wall-paper 
should  be  bought  first,  and  the  carpet  selected  as  a  quiet  ac- 
cessory. In  no  case  should  the  floor  be  very  light  or  brill- 
iant. 

Prices  of  Material. 

The  price  of  material  does  not  vary  greatly  from  time  to 
time.  The  subjoined  prices  will  be  found  nearly  correct  for 
a  long  time  to  come : — 

Cotton  momie-cloth,  50  in.  wide,  in  all  colors, 

per  yd $1.10 

Woolen  momie-cloth,  per  yd 3.00 

Felting,  2  yds.  wide,  per  yd 1.50 

Bolton  sheeting,  imported  from  England,  per  yd.     1.00 

Stamped  velveteen,  per  yd $1.25-2.00 

Cotton  flannel  or  "  fashion  drapery,"  every  variety 

of  color,  per  yd 0. 90 

This  is  double  width,  and  alike  on  both  sides  so  that  no 
lining  is  needed. 

Crash  is  much  used.  It  is  woven  by  Russian  peasants, 
is  of  varying  width,  and  in  lengths  from  five  to  ten  yards. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  select  handsome,  even  pieces.  The 
widths  can  be  loosely  overhanded  together,  and  bands  of 
trimming  laid  on,  or  braid,  or  any  stripe  of  decoration  can 


264         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

be  inserted  between  the  widths.  A  beautiful  decoration  is 
a  band  of  Japanese  silk  piecework  in  pretty  colors,  put  on 
at  top  and  bottom. 

Unbleached  linen  and  cotton  make  pretty  curtains. 
The  former  may  be  beautifully  worked  in  crewels,  either 
over  the  entire  curtain,  or  a  band  laid  on.  The  latter  are 
very  pretty  with  a  band  of  cretonne  as  trimming,  or  with 
one  of  red  and  one  of  blue,  or  one  of  pink  and  one  of  blue, 
and  a  gay  effect  is  produced. 

Scarfs  and  Book-Case  Curtains. 

In  a  friend's  house  we  have  seen  an  old  and  awkward 
book-case  converted  into  two  pretty  modern  ones  by  saw- 
ing the  high  one  in  two,  and  adding,  in  one  case  a  cornice, 
in  the  other  a  base.  Some  gold-colored  leather  was  cut  in 
strips,  pinked,  and  tacked  with  pretty  tacks  on  each  shelf,  so 
that  much  dust  was  kept  from  the  books.  She  then  added 
a  scarf  of  old-gold  satin,  embroidered  with  a  branch  of  dog- 
wood in  Kensington  stitch,  with  a  band  of  plush  and  a 
fringe  as  finish.  Thrown  over  the  middle  of  the  book-case, 
it  made  a  graceful  decoration,  and  afforded  a  pretty  place 
upon  which  to  arrange  a  group  of  bric-a-brac,  French 
crackle  ware,  and  odd  vases.  A  more  elegant  book-case  of 
ebonized  wood  had  a  curtain  in  front  of  old-gold  satin,  with 
a  band  about  a  foot  wide  of  stamped  crushed-strawberry 
velvet.  The  whole  could  be  pushed  aside,  for  it  was  hung 
with  rings  upon  a  gilded  rod. 

The  top  of  an  easel  can  often  be  decorated  with  some 
scarf  or  piece  of  stuff  which  has  been  in  the  house  unused 
for  years. 


CORRECT  rilfXOIPLES  OF  TASTE. 


205 


Pkinciples  of  Taste. 

If  a  lady  can  give  sufficient  thought  to  the  subject,  and 
decide  upon  some  good  guiding  rules,  she  can  often  trans- 
form, with  slight  outlay,  a  bare  and  ugly  house  into  a 
pretty  and  attractive  one.  Let  use  and  enduring  quality 
be  in  the  mind,  with  the  comfort  of  the  household  above 
every  other  consideration. 


Gfiaf'Trf^    IX. 


SCREENS. — HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM. — MATERIALS. — HOW  TO  USE 
SCREENS  TO  ADVANTAGE. — HOW  TO  MAKE  SCREENS. — 
HOW  TO  EBONIZE  WOOD. — PAINTED  SCREENS. — HOW  TO 
USE  DISCARDED  MATERIAL  TO  ADVANTAGE  IN  COVER- 
ING PANELS  OF  SCREENS. — EMBROIDERED  SCREENS. — 
HOW   TO   MAKE   THE   FRAMES. 


°X*c 


OTHING  breaks  up  the  stiffness  of  a  room,  and 
nothing  serves  so  many  odd  purposes,  as  a  fold- 
ing screen.  A  lady,  assisted  by  a  carpenter,  con- 
structed a  large  one  of  four  panels  to  make  a 
dressing-room  in  one  corner  of  a  large  bed-room. 
Since  then  it  has  served  to  conceal  the  bed  from 
sight  in  a  small  hotel  room,  to  hide  a  Christmas 
tree  from  sharp  little  eyes,  and  as  a  background 
for  the  model  in  a  studio. 

The  smaller  banner  and  lamp  screens  are 
often  very  useful  and  always  graceful  and  pretty. 
The  frame  for  a  panel  screen  may  be  ccnstructed  by  any 
good  carpenter  who  has  well-seasoned  wood  to  work 
with.  The  wood  should  be  about  two  and  one-half  inches 
in  width  for  a  large  screen.  The  two  uprights  of  each  panel 
look  well  reaching  about  two  inches  below  the  cross-piece  at 

[26fi] 


HOW  TO  MAKE  AND  USE  SCREENS. 


267 


the  bottom.  A  screen  of  three  panels,  each  five  feet  high 
and  twenty  inches  wide,  is  perhaps  the  best  balanced.  The 
illustration  here  given  will  furnish  all  necessary  details  bet- 
ter than  a  description. 


Fig.    59- 

Ebonized  wood  is  undoubtedly  the  favorite  wood,  as  it 
enhances  the  beauty  of  all  sorts  of  decoration.  The  follow- 
ing is  an  excellent  recipe  for 

Ebonizing  Wood, 

Thou  oh  a  good  carriage-maker  can  do  better  tiian  any 
amateur  workman:  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  best  size 
in  a  stone  pot,  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  it.     Set  it  on 


268         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  stove  to  melt,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Then  three  cents' 
worth  of  lamp-black,  and  a  little  blue  black  to  improve 
the  color,  should  be  made  to  the  consistency  of  paste  with 
oil.  Upon  this  is  poured  the  melted  size,  and  the  two 
mixed  thoroughly  together.  Apply  this  while  warm  to  the 
wood,  and  paint  thickly  enough  to  look  solid.  When  quite 
diy.  varnish  with  two  coats  of  oil-copal  varnish.  This 
should  be  done  in  a  warm  room  free  from  dust.  The  var- 
nish is  put  on  with  a  large  brush,  boldly,  rapidly,  and 
evenly. 

If  the  article  is  to  have  a  polished  appearance,  two  coats 
of  varnish  will  answer,  but  three  or  four  varnishings  will  be 
needed  to  give  it  a  dull  finish.  The  rubbing  down  is  done 
with  the  finest  pulverized  pumice-stone,  mixed  with  water  to 
make  it  about  the  thickness  of  cream,  and  rubbed  on  with  a 
piece  of  rag.  The  rubbing  must  continue  till  all  inequali- 
ties disappear  and  the  surface  is  as  smooth  as  glass.  It  has 
then  to  be  dried  with  a  cloth  and  polished  again  with  tripoli 
and  sweet  oil.  After  drying  a  second  time  with  soft  linen, 
rub  it  with  starch  powTder,  and  finish  it  with  a  clean,  soft 
linen  cloth  until  you  can  see  your  face  in  the  polished  sur- 
face. A  single  grain  of  sand  or  grit  on  any  of  the  cloths 
would  injure  the  surface. 

Bamboo  Screens. 

Bamboo  screens  and  easels  are  very  popular.  We  have 
known  them  to  be  made  from  fishing  rods,  but  suppose  the 
bamboo  must  now  be  imported  on  purpose. 

Tripods  and  Fire-Screens. 

The  handsome  stands  are  made  of  gilded  iron,  having  a 
solid  base,  a  slender  upright,  and  a  cross-piece  from  which 


COVERING  AND  DECORATING  SCREENS.  269 

the  banner  screen  is  suspended.  In  England,  where  an  open 
fire  is  in  almost  every  room,  fire-screens  are  much  in  use. 
Modern  ones  are  of  gilded  iron,  and  screwed  to  the  mantel, 
the  banner  protecting  the  eyes  of  those  sitting  before  the  fire. 

An  Old  Clothes-Horse. 

This  frame- work  needs  but  slight  explanation,  and  can 
often  be  found  in  a  somewhat  dilapidated  condition  in  the 
kitchen  garret.  From  thence  it  can  be  brought,  ebonized 
or  painted  in  successive  coats  of  Venetian  or  Indian  red,  and 
covered  to  suit  the  taste. 

The  Covering  and  Decoration  of  Screens. 

Perhaps  the  handsomest  screens  are  those  which  are 
painted  by  hand.  We  own  to  a  prejudice  against  painting  on 
silk  or  satin.  Fine  painting  should  be  on  a  more  enduring 
material,  and  poor  painting  should  only  be  done  as  a  stepping- 
stone  to  what  is  better.  After  putting  magnesia  on  the 
back  and  using  your  oil-color  without  additional  oil,  the 
color  will  "  run  "  a  little. 

As  for  water-color,  you  have  to  use  body  color,  (Chinese 
white  mixed  with  the  ordinary  water-colors),  and  the  result 
is  a  dry  surface  which  seems  ready  to  crack  off  like  white- 
wash. Nevertheless,  we  haveseen  some  fine  effects  produced 
both  with  oil  and  water-color.  French  artists  of  name  and 
fame  have  not  scorned  fan  decoration  upon  silk  and  satin. 
Unless,  however,  great  skill  has  been  acquired,  we  would  ad- 
vise one  of  the  following  methods: — 

1.  Painting  with  oil-color  upon  some  kind  of  canvas  in- 
tended for  the  purpose. 

2.  Painting  with  water-color  upon  paper  and  protecting 

the  work  with  glass. 


270  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

3.  Embroidery  which  seems  the  dower  right  of  rich  stuffs, 
a  most  natural  and  beautiful  decoration. 

4.  Applique  work,  either  onlaid  or  inlaid,  and — 

5.  A  plain  surface  adorned  with  odd  bits  of  decoration, 
birds,  fans,  pieces  of  heavy  lace,  etc. 

As  to  the  first,  picture  canvas  is  heavy  and  very  expen- 
sive. We  have  found  oil  window  shading  a  very  good  substi- 
tute, and  we  have  been  told  that  book-binder's  cloth  serves 
equally  well.  Either  can  be  nicely  stretched  upon  the 
frame,  the  edge  covered  with  narrow  worsted  braid,  which 
comes  at  a  cheap  rate  in  thirty-six  yard  pieces,  and  tacked 
with  upholsterer's  tacks.  This  makes  the  back  of  the  screen 
neat,  and  a  pretty  color  of  canvas-buff  or  stone  color  can  be 
selected. 

Flowers  have  long  been  a  favorite  decoration,  though 
many  speak  of  the  difficulty  of  finding  designs  of  sufficient 
size  and  importance  for  a  large  screen.  It  is  well  to  decide 
upon  the  design  for  all  of  the  panels  before  beginning  to 
paint. 

A  Pretty  Idea 

Is  to  have  the  first  panel  for  the  spring,  the  second  midsum- 
mer, the  third  for  autumn.  The  first  could  be  either  a  long 
branch  or  double  branch  of  peach  or  apple  blossoms,  set,  per- 
haps, in  a  brown  vase  upon  a  pretty  table-cover.  The  back- 
ground could  be  a  pale  yellowish  tint.  The  second  might  be 
a  mass  of  roses  hanging  down  from  the  top  with  a  soft,  gray 
background.  The  third  could  be  a  great  branch  of  white 
chrysanthemums  coming  well  across  the  panel  from  the  left, 
with  some  crimson  and  gold  blossoms  near  the  frame  of  the 
screen,  as  if  one  hand  held  the  three  branches. 


COVERING  AND  DECORATING  SCREENS.  271 

Flowers  and  Figures  from  Nature. 

In  studying  flowers  it  is  well  not  to  cut  them,  but  paint 
a  selected  branch  while  it  still  grows  and  rejoices.  A  branch 
of  chrysanthemums  or  azaleas  can  never  be  placed  as  beauti- 
fully as  it  places  itself  upon  the  parent  stem. 

Figures  are  very  appropriate  for  a  screen,  but  there  are 
not  many  unprofessional  artists  who  have  studied  the  figure 
sufficiently  to  produce  satisfactory  results.  One  young  lady 
having  great  talent,  evolved,  after  some  study,  a  screen  from 
a  frame  made  by  a  carpenter,  and  some  burlaps  for  canvas, 
upon  which  (it  had  but  two  panels)  she  painted  a  knight 
and  a  lady.  She  served,  with  the  aid  of  a  long  mirror,  for 
her  own  model  for  the  lady,  and  an  unwilling  brother  was 
drummed  into  service  as  the  knight.  The  burlaps  had  a 
sizing  of  paste  to  fill  up  the  interstices  and  save  paint. 

A  Stationary  Screen. 

We  have  seen  a  sort  of  partition  screen  built  across  a  hall 
to  couvert  the  back  part  into  a  boy's  bed-room.  The  frame 
wa*  painted  a  dull  red.  The  burlap  was  stretched,  and  a 
pretty  group  of  peacock  feathers  arranged  upon  it,  with  a 
bow  of  some  gay  striped  stuff  holding  the  stems.  It  was  in 
an  inconspicuous  place,  and  the  effect  was  excellent. 

Water-Colors. 

Each  panel  can  be  divided  into  sections  by  a  band  of 
wood.  The  frame  is  thus  strengthened,  and  neither  the 
picture  nor  the  glass  need  be  so  large.  In  the  water-color 
exhibitions  in  London,  solid  screens  serve  as  hanging  places 
for  mauy  small  sketches  which  would  stand  but  a  poor 
chance  among  the  large  frames  on  the  wall. 


CxKi^JPTRF*    X. 


EMBROIDERED  SCREENS. — JAPANESE  PIECE-WORK. — A  PAT- 
RIOTIC SCREEN.  —  NEW  USES  OF  OLD  MATERIAL.  —  A 
QUEER  USE  FOR  AN  OLD  CLOTHES-HORSE. — LAMBRE- 
QUINS.—  TABLES. — CABINETS. — ODDS  AND  ENDS. — USE 
UP  THE  PIECES. 


o»Cc 


jHE  variety  here  is  immense.  All  rich  stuffs, 
plush,  satin,  silk,  and  embossed  materials,  are 
handsome  and  may  be  heavily  embroidered,  or 
some  slight  spray  worked  upon  them. 

Sail-cloth  makes  an  exellent  panel  upon  which 
to  embroider  figures  in  outline  embroidery.  The 
stamping  can  be  done  in  most  towns,  or  an 
ingenious  person  can  transfer  designs. 

Cretonne  makes  a  pretty  screen.  It  can  be 
embroidered  by  working  in  the  high  lights  in 
silk.  Many  cover  it  with  embroidery,  but  this 
hardly  pays.  The  first  screen  we  ever  saw,  consisted  of  one 
panel,  and  was  made  from  the  rich-flowered  dressing-gown 
of  one  of  the  ancestors  of  the  family. 

A  plain  stretch  of  felting  in  any  pretty  color  makes  a 
beautiful    background    on   which   to  arrange   a  group  of 
[272] 


JAPANESE  PIECEWORK.  273 

feathers,  a  stuffed  bird,  or  a  pair  of  Japanese  fans  with  the 
handles  crossed  and  tied  with  a  bow  of  ribbon  in  a  pretty 
contrasting  color.  A  pair  of  bird's  wings,  those  of  wild 
ducks  are  very  nice,  and  a  fan  made  of  two  pretty  pieces 
of  wall-paper  laid  in  folds  and  held  together  at  one  end  (an 
ordinary  folding  fan)  with  a  large  bow  of  ribbon,  looks 
well.  This  same  decoration  in  larger  shape  looks  well  on  the 
wall. 

A  good  use  to  make  of  one  of  those  interesting  old 
"  samplers  "  which  are  stowed  away  in  so  many  houses  is  to 
stretch  it  upon  a  pretty  stuff  panel  of  a  screen  and  fasten  at 
each  corner  with  a  bow  of  ribbon.  If  used  in  a  screen  with 
more  than  one  panel,  the  others  may  be  filled  with 

Japanese  Piecework. 

Collect  a  quantity  of  scraps  of  ribbon,  brocade,  satin, 
velvet,  plush,  and  silk.  If  the  pieces  are  small  and  odd  in 
shape,  so  much  the  better.  Take  squares  of  old  muslin, 
lay  over  them  a  half  thickness  of  wadding,  then  baste  oja 
the  pieces,  turning  in  or  covering  the  edges.  Put  them  on 
in  as  fantastic  a  way  as  possible.  Many  embroider  the 
larger  spaces  with  palettes,  crescents,  arrows,  butterflies,  two 
rings  interlocked,  or  any  odd  design,  and  cover  all  the  seams 
with  feather  stitch  or  point  russe.  Much  embroidery  is  not 
necessary;  we  have  seen  blocks  which  had  a  loaded  ap- 
pearance. Having  finished  blocks  'enough  for  the  space, 
sew  them  nicely  together,  line,  and  stretch  in  your  screen. 

Let  us  here  recommend  as  a  constant  friend  and  helper 
to  one  new  in  the  art  of  designing,  an  illustrated  dictionary. 
You  will  find  pretty  shields,  birds,  insects,  Egyptian  symbols, 
and  a  host  of  other  suggestive  designs. 

18 


-274  OUB  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

One  panel  of  piecework  could  be  varied  by  a  diagonal 
band  of  plush,  or  a  corner  of  the  same;  or  the  band  could  be 
of  cloth,  and  if  some  learned  friend  would  suggest  a  Sanscrit 
or  Hebrew  motto,  it  could  be  cut  out  and  appliqued  on.  We 
have  seen  a  beautiful  hanging  with  an  adornment  of  this 
kind,  the  letters  being  about  six  inches  in  length,  and  of 
black  on  a  lighter  ground. 

We  think  some  ingenious  woman  could  make  a 

Patriotic  Screen 

Which  would  be  useful  and  striking.  Take  the  army  blue 
coat  which  some  brave  husband  or  brother  wore  home. 
Those  belonging  to  the  heroic  dead  are  perhaps  too  sacred  to 
be  converted  even  into  a  thing  of  beauty.  The  frame  could 
be  painted  with  a  succession  of  coats  of  Venetian  red  rubbed 
smooth  with  pumice-stone  and  water.  The  light  blue  cloth 
could  be  stretched,  and  the  edges  at  the  back  of  the  screen 
covered  with  a  narrow,  dark  blue  braid  and  tacked  on  with 
fancy  brass  tacks.  Across  the  light  blue  field  could  be  laid 
a  diagonal  band  of  dark  blue  cloth,  fastened  on  with  red 
and  gold  stitches  and  with  army  buttons  at  intervals. 
"Upon  the  dark  blue  could  be  outlined  in  red,  odd  designs, 
some  favorite  motto,  or  a  line  from  an  army  hymn. 

The  cap,  sword,  spurs,  and  pistol  make  a  handsome 
group  on  the  wall  with  a  background  of  crimson  felt. 
Small  banner  screens  (see  illustration  p.  275)  are  very 
pretty.  The  ground- work  is  of  pale  blue  satin.  The  border 
in  applique  is  of  dark  blue  velvet,  embroidered  in  crimson 
and  gold.  The  leaves  are  of  velvet,  and  the  stems  and 
tendrils  of  chenille.  Any  material  may  be  used  with  this 
design.  The  cords  and  tassels  are  sometimes  of  beads,  but  in 
any  case  they  must  harmonize  in  color. 


COVERING  AND  DECORATING  SCREENS.  975 

Lamp  Screens. 

Very  pretty  lamp  screens  are  made  in  the  same  way,  and 
mounted  upon  smaller  tripod  stands. 


Odd  Fan  Screens. 

The  frame  is  made  of  two  uprights  of  bamboo  fishing 
rod  joined  at  the  top  with  a  piece  of  bamboo  about  two 


276 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


inches  in  length,  neatly  glued  and  tacked  in.  The  uprights 
are  cut  off  within  about  four  inches  of  the  floor,  and  three 
short  legs  are  fastened  on  so  as  to  make  a  firm  spread  base. 
The  thickest  part  of  the  rod  serves  for  these  legs,  which  are 
cut  off  so  as  to  stand  firm  upon  the  floor.     A  small  square 


Fig.  6 1. 

of  ebonized  wood,  or  a  little  Japanese  tray  or  box-cover, 
forms  the  front  of  a  block  in  which  six  Japanese  fans  are 
set.  The  handles  have  to  be  somewhat  cut  off  so  as  to  fit 
the  holes  and  radiate  like  the  petals  of  a  flower.  A  double 
purpose  is  served, — a  screen  in  winter  and  a  fan  stand  in 
summer. 

Mrs.  Gen.  Sheridan  saw  one  made  from  this  design,  and 
has  ordered  several  from  a  handy  workman  who  has  learned 
to  join  the  bamboo  nicely. 


/ 


5^- LACE  LAMBREQUIN.  -2=5= 


LAMBREQUINS  AND  TABLES.  277 

Old  Clothes-Horse  Screen. 

The  frame- work  was  ebonizecl,  the  hinges  were  made  of 
two  long  strips  of  old-gold  colored  leather,  the  two  making 
the  length  of  the  upright.  They  were  tacked  on  with  brass 
nails  on  the  right  side  of  one  panel,  on  the  wrong  side  of  the 
other,  and  vice  versa.  A  little  piece  of  the  wood  was  cut 
away  under  the  hinges  to  let  the  frame  fold.  The  panels 
were  covered  with  some  old  linen  curtains  brought  from  the 
garret.  They  were  nicely  stretched,  covered  with  Christ- 
mas and  birthday  cards,  with  a  border  of  fancy  paper,  then 
varnished  with  white  copal  varnish. 

Lambrequins. 

They  are  not  as  much  in  use  as  formerly,  being  super- 
seded by  a  valence  which  will  shove  aside  with  the  curtains. 
Their  stationary  character,  and  the  fact  that  they  exclude 
the  light  from  the  top,  whence  it  is  so  desirable,  has  served 
to  make  them  unpopular,  though  they  are  still  made  in  rich 
material,  cut  in  all  manner  of  forms,  and  trimmed  with 
fringe  and  heavy  gimps. 

Tables. 

Many  an  old  table  could  be  made  good-looking  and  use- 
ful by  ebonizing  the  lower  part,  laying  a  thickness  of  wad- 
ding over  the  top,  and  covering  with  a  piece  of  crimson 
felting.  Braid  or  ribbon  could  be  appliqued  on  a  band  to 
go  round'  the  table,  and  the  edge  could  be  trimmed  with 
worsted  fringe.  I  have  seen  a  half-moon-shaped  table 
covered  with  dark  blue  cloth,  and  with  a  fall  of  worsted 
embroidery  which   was  worked  in  subdivisions  by  half   a 


278 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


dozen  different  friends.      A  clover-leaf  table  is  now  often 
covered  with  fine  crash,  and  the  fall  embroidered  in  crewels. 

Table-Cover. 

The  illustration  shows  a  completed  design  of  an  orna- 
mental table-cover.      The  cover  is  often  made  very  much 


Fig.  62. 

longer,  affording   an    excellent  opportunity  for   decoration, 
and  adding,  of  course,  to  the  cost  and  labor  of  making. 

This     cover     is    of      fawn-colored    cloth,    ornamented 
elaborately  on  the  ends  in  application  embroidery. 


ANTIQUE  FURNITURE.  279 

The  design  figures  which  look  dark  in  the  illustration 
are  applied  in  brown  cloth ;  and  on  each  leaf  of  the  large 
middle  application  figure,  apply  a  piece  of  dark  brown  vel- 
vet. Edge  all  the  applied  figures  with  fawn-colored  soutache, 
and  besides,  ornament  the  pieces  of  velvet  in  point  russe 
embroidery  with  fawn-colored  saddler's  silk.  For  the  lines 
of  the  design,  sew  on  broad  soutache  in  two  shades.  The 
cover  is  bordered  with  light  brown,  open  silk  fringe,  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  wTide.     The  lining  is  brown  percale. 

A  Friendship  Cushion 

Is  divided  by  black  lines  into  squares  a  few  inches  across, 
and  tilled  in  to  suit  the  taste  of  each  worker. 

Japanese  quilt,  described  under  chapter  on  screens, 
makes  a  handsome  chair  or  sofa  cushion,  especially  so  with 
a  diagonal  band  of  plush  across  it. 

Odds  and  Ends. 

There  is  just  now  a  great  fancy  for  the  old-fashioned 
flax  wheel  with  a  tuft  of  flax  tied  to  the  spindle  with 
ribbons.  It  is  certainly  a  picturesque  object,  and  very 
suggestive  of  the  old  and  charming  industry  by  which  our 
o-randmothers  furnished  their  linen  closets  with  the  ex- 
eel  lent  material  of  which  stray  table-cloths  and  tray-cloths 
come  down  as  heirlooms.  We  have  seen  a  tiny  wheel 
gilded.     It  was  very  pretty,  but  somewhat  theatrical. 

Cabinets 

Are  the  rage  at  present.  We  sawT  one  lately  which  had 
adorned  a  garret  for  years.  It  now  occupies  the  place  of 
honor  between  the  front  windows  in  a  handsome  house.     It 


280         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

has  been  ebonized,  to  be  sure,  and  the  panels  of  the  doors 
gilded,  and  a  border  in  brown  and  gold  painted  across  the 
top  of  each  panel ;  but  the  old  thing  seems  puzzled  to  find 
itself  once  more  "  the  top  shelf,"  and  seems  to  consider  itself 
an  illustration  of  the  ups  and  downs  in  this  world. 

From  Nuremburg  have  come  countless  old  treasures  of 
this  sort.  We  think  perhaps  the  old  and  dusty  city  parts 
gladly  with  some  of  its  age  and  general  mustiness,  and 
replaces  the  old  things  with  new.  We  Americans,  in  our 
newness,  are  equally  charmed  to  acquire  things  which  were 
old  one  hundred  years  ago.  Many  fine  old  cabinets  come 
from  Holland,  and  Italy  gives  up  many  treasures  to  the 
hordes  of  Americans  who  come  armed  with  the  invincible 
dollar. 

Hall  Benches. 

Beautiful  inlaid  hall  benches  come  in  great  numbers 
from  Milan,  Genoa,  and  Florence.  We  have  heard  of  three 
within  as  many  weeks  coming  to  the  West.  All  along  the 
Hudson  River  there  are  treasures  of  old  Dutch  work  to  be 
seen,  claw-footed  "breeches,"  a  sort  of  buffet  and  stout- 
backed  old  chairs  in  mahogany.  Once  upon  a  time  the 
garret  of  one  of  the  old  Dutch  houses  in  Albany  gave  up  its 
own,  and  the  rush  of  curiosity  seekers  was  immense.  The 
South  is  now  considered  a  promising  field  for  the  old  furni- 
ture buyer.  We  have  seen  a  handsome,  old-fashioned 
mahogany  sideboard  brought  from  there,  which  was  of  use 
and  beauty  far  beyond  the  narrow,  "high  shouldered" 
things  we  are  accustomed  to  see. 

Be  Original! 

It  is  a  pity  that  every  man  and  woman  in  furnishing  a 
house  cannot  work  after  the  fashion  of  "  The  Chambered 


ANTIQUE  FURNITURE.  281 

Nautilus,"  making  their  own  house  and  furniture,  or  at  least 
having  it  made,  after  their  own  needs  and  notions.  This 
originality  is  the  great  charm  of  the  antique. 

The  furniture  was  not  turned  out  by  the  thousand,  but 
each  piece  was  constructed  either  to  fill  an  order  or  all  "out 
of  the  carver's  brain,"  so  that  to  this,  to  any  day,  the  charm 
of  human  expression  hangs  about  the  work. 

I  think  the  rage  for  the  antique  in  furniture,  so  far  as  it 
is  a  fashion,  will  pass  away;  but  interesting  old  things  will 
always  be  treasured  by  those  who  feel  the  charm  of  old 
associations. 

Use  up  the  Pieces. 

A  friend  indulged  not  long  ago  in  some  crimson  felt  for 
a  screen.  There  were  some  pieces  left.  With  the  largest, 
she  made  the  center  of  a  scarf  table-cloth,  putting  some  striped 
stuff  on  each  end ;  and  then  there  were  some  long  ribbons 
of  the  felt  left.  She  feather-stitched  them  in  old-gold,  and 
threaded  them  into  a  willow  chair,  where  they  did  much 
better  than  ribbons,  not  fading,  and  looking  more  like  use. 
A  little  piece  still  remained.  She  lined  it  with  pasteboard, 
first  having  worked  the  motto,  "Fast  Bind,  Fast  Find,'' 
upon  it,  and  made  an  excellent  brush-broom  holder  for  the 
hat  rack. 


Ghaptrr  XI. 


SOME  NEW  DESIGNS  IN  EMBROIDERY.  —  LAMBREQUIN  AND 
CURTAINS. — MATERIALS  TO  USE,  AND  HOW  TO  CON- 
STRUCT.— AN  ELEGANT  SOFA  PILLOW. — A  NEW  AP- 
PLIQUE  DESIGN. — LACE   LAMBREQUIN. 


^o^c 


[AMBREQUIN  AND  CURTAINS.— The  illus- 
tration is  so  plain  that  most  ladies  can  easily 
construct  the  set  with  but  few  suggestions.  The 
materials  may  he  readily  suited  to  the  means  and 

^  taste  of  the  owner.  The  lambrequin  is  com- 
posed of  three  pieces,  their  sizes,  of  course,  being 
determined  by  the  window.  Each  of  the  side 
pieces  has  three  plaits  turning  inward,  and  the 
center  piece  three  plaits  running  cross-wise. 
The  trimmings  may  be  put  on  to  suit  the  taste,' 
the  heavier  and  richer  the  material,  the  better 
the  effect.  The  curtains  may  be  canton  flannel 
trimmed  with  lace,  or  of  any  material  harmoniz- 


ing with  the  lambrequin. 


Sofa  Pillow. 

The  material  for  this  really  elegant  piece  should  be  of 
good  quality.  The  embroidery  is  worked  in  the  Janina 
stitch,  and  shows  off  to  most  excellent  advantage.  The  fol- 
lowing colors  look  quite  well,  and  we  recommend  the  com- 
bination here  suggested  :  Flowers,  blue  silk  ;  stamens, 
yellow  and  red;  large  leaves,  olive  green  ;  and  wood, 
brown.  The  stems,  small  leaves,  and  straight  lines  of  the 
border,  are  worked  with  golden -brown  silk  in  three  shades, 
the  stems  being  darker.  The  buds  are  Avorked  in  violet 
and  cream-colored  silk,  and  the  leaves  near  them  in  light 
green.  Edge  the  top  with  heavy  cord,  and  finish  the 
[2821 


CURTAINS  AND  LAMBREQUINS. 


2.s:i 


very 

made 

which 


corners  with  tassels.      The  material  may  be  some  dark  cloth, 
suitable  to  the  taste  and  purse  of  the  possessor. 

Applique  De- 
sign for  Mantel 
or  Window. — This 
design  would  be 
elegant  if 
of  plush, 
is  now  the 
most  popular  ma- 
terial. It  may,  how- 
ever, be  worked  in 
silk,  felt,  or  flannel ; 
in  either  case,  cut 
out  your  pansies 
from  velvet.  This 
flower  has  so  many 
hues,  colors,  and 
shades,  that  odd 
bits  of  material,  as 
dark  red,  purple, 
white,  old  gold,  ma- 
roon,—  in  fact,  any 
tint, —  may  easily 
be  worked  in  with 
most  excellent  ef- 
fect, two  shades  be- 
ing used  for  each 
flower.  The  leaves 
and  buds  are  made 
of  green,  and  the 
stems  of  shaded 
green.  When  com- 
pleted, press  the 
work  on  the  wrong 
side,  lining  it  with  some  suitable  heavy  material.  Work 
the  stems  in  vine  chain  stitch.  For  richness  of  effect,  we 
do  not  think  this  design  is  surpassed.  Directions  for  ap- 
plique work  are  given  on  page  241. 

The  Lace   Lambrequin,   illustrated  opposite  page  284, 
is  elegant,  and  when  the  other  drapery  is  of  lace,  it  is  very 


Curtain  and   Lambrequin. 


284         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Pillow  in  Janina  Stitch. 


Applique 


appropriate.  These  lam- 
brequins can  be  found  at 
the  stores  ready  made, 
with  nothing  to  do  but 
fasten  them  to  the  cor- 
nice,  which    should    be 
made  to  stand    out    so 
as  to  hold  the  lambre- 
quin  clear  of  the  cur- 
tains.    The   variety   of 
designs  is  almost  infin- 
ite,    those     with     fern 
leaves  being  preferred. 


Ch^f^trr   XII . 


FURNISHINGS. — THE  HALL. — ITS  IMPRESSION  UPOX  VISIT- 
ORS.—  THE  PARLOR. —  DINING-ROOM.  —  HOW  TO  FUR- 
NISH THEM  AT  REASONABLE  COST. — EBONIZING  WOOD. 
— HOME-MADE   MANTELS,    RUGS,    CARPETS,    ETC. 


oj^o 


HE  suggestions  made  in  the  following  pages,  are 
offered  as  such.  No  authority,  however  high, 
can  fix  rules  which  will  be  followed  by  those 
whose  originality  leads  them  to  decorate  and  fur- 
nish their  homes  in  good  taste  without  regard  to 
fashion. 

The  Hall. — A  very  recent  and  trustworthy 
writer  says:  "  The  entrance  of  a  house  indicates 
the  character  of  the  entire  building,  the  lower 
hall  and  vestibule  often  furnishing  the  key-note 
to  the  whole  interior.  This  key-note  addressed 
to  the  eye  should  be  pitched  low ;  there  should  be  no  striking 
brilliancy  of  color,  although  warm  tones  ai*e  admissible,  but 
a  leading  up,  as  it  were,  to  the  richer  hues  and  more  elabo- 
rate adornments  of  the  sheltered  apartments." 

Ordinary  halls  are  too  small  for  much  display,  if  here 
were  the  place  for  display.     Where  the  dimensions  of  the  hall 

[285] 


28G  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

will  permit,  a  hall  table,  made  of  such  material  as  will  sug- 
gest strength  and  durability,  flanked  on  each  side  with 
chairs  of  like  design,  are  not  out  of  place.     A  small  bracket, 


Fig-  63. 


supporting  an  antique  jar  or  other  bric-a-brac,  is  often  very 
appropriate,  as  is  also  a  neat  holder  for  whisp  or  brush,  the^e 
being  valuable  adjuncts  to  any  hall. 


HOW  TO  FURNISH  ROOMS. 


287 


Where  the  hall  is  small,  a  mirror  framed  in  such  a  way 
as  to  admit  of  pegs  for  hats  and  coats  is,  perhaps,  as  appro- 


Fig.  64. 

priate  as  can  be  wished.     Fig.  63  gives  a  very  pretty  design. 
Such  a  design  may  be  cut  out  with  a  scroll-saw  or  by  your 


288  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

own  carpenter,  and  ebonized  according  to  the  recipe  given 
in  this  work,  and  furnished  with  a  mirror,  at  little  cost. 
Ebonized  wood  for  such  furniture  is  quite  popular. 

A  more  commodious,  and  of  course,  more  costly,  style  of 
hat,  coat,  and  umbrella  rack,  with  mirror  and  drawers,  is 
shown  in  Fig.  64. 

The  floor  can  be  treated  as  the  means  and  taste  of  the 
owner  dictate.  Tiles  have  been  suggested  already,  but  less 
costly  material  may  be  selected,  as  oil  carpet,  or  Lineoleum, — 
a  thick,  durable  covering  resembling  oil  carpet,  but  made  of 
ground  cork.  A  plain  or  stained  floor  with  a  neat  rug  often 
makes  a  pretty  appearance. 

The  Reception-Room,  Parlor,  and  Library. 

The  question  of  first  importance  in  the  furnishing  of  the 
drawing-room,  parlor,  or  in  fact  any  room,  is  whether  the 
floor,  ceilings,  and  walls  are  to  be  the  background  for  deco- 
rative objects,  or  are  themselves  to  furnish  the  decorative 
features.  If  the  walls  and  ceilings  are  covered  with  costly 
and  showy  paper,  and  the  floor  carpeted  with  brilliant 
colors,  no  furniture,  however  costly,  will  show  off  to  good 
effect,  as  opinions  on  the  subjects  are  very  decided.  Then 
let  this  question  first  be  settled  before  a  single  step  is  taken 
toward  furnishing  the  room.  Under  chapters  I  to  VII, 
will  be  found  practical  suggestions  upon  the  treatment  of 
walls,  ceilings,  etc. 

Regarding  carpets,  much  might  be  said  and  with  little 
effect,  as  opinions  on  this  subject  are  very  decided.  One 
who  gets  glimpses  of  many  parlors,  has  observed  that  in  the 
average  home  the  carpet  is  too  costly  for  the  other  fur- 
nishings of  the  room. 


JAPANESE  PIECEWORK.  273 

feathers,  a  stuffed  bird,  or  a  pair  of  Japanese  fans  with  the 
handles  crossed  and  tied  with  a  bow  of  ribbon  in  a  pretty 
contrasting  color.  A  pair  of  bird's  wings,  those  of  wild 
ducks  are  very  nice,  and  a  fan  made  of  two  pretty  pieces 
of  wall-paper  laid  in  folds  and  held  together  at  one  end  (an 
ordinary  folding  fan)  with  a  large  bow  of  ribbon,  looks 
well.  This  same  decoration  in  larger  shape  looks  well  on  the 
wall. 

A  good  use  to  make  of  one  of  those  interesting  old 
"  samplers  "  which  are  stowed  away  in  so  many  houses  is  to 
stretch  it  upon  a  pretty  stuff  panel  of  a  screen  and  fasten  at 
each  corner  with  a  bow  of  ribbon.  If  used  in  a  screen  with 
more  than  one  panel,  the  others  may  be  filled  with 

Japanese  Piecework. 

Collect  a  quantity  of  scraps  of  ribbon,  brocade,  satin, 
velvet,  plush,  and  silk.  If  the  pieces  are  small  and  odd  in 
shape,  so  much  the  better.  Take  squares  of  old  muslin, 
lay  over  them  a  half  thickness  of  wadding,  then  baste  on 
the  pieces,  turning  in  or  covering  the  edges.  Put  them  on 
in  as  fantastic  a  way  as  possible.  Many  embroider  the 
larger-  spaces  with  palettes,  crescents,  arrows,  butterflies,  two 
rings  interlocked,  or  any  odd  design,  and  cover  all  the  seams 
with  feather  stitch  or  point  russe.  Much  embroidery  is  not 
necessary;  we  have  seen  blocks  which  had  a  loaded  ap- 
pearance. Having  finished  blocks  enough  for  the  space, 
sew  them  nicely  together,  line,  and  stretch  in  your  screen. 

Let  us  here  recommend  as  a  constant  friend  and  helper 
to  one  new  in  the  art  of  designing,  an  illustrated  dictionary. 
You  will  find  pretty  shields,  birds,  insects,  Egyptian  symbols, 
and  a  host  of  other  suggestive  designs. 

18 


274  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

One  panel  of  piecework  could  be  varied  by  a  diagonal 
band  of  plush,  or  a  corner  of  the  same;  or  the  band  could  be 
of  cloth,  and  if  some  learned  friend  would  suggest  a  Sanscrit 
or  Hebrew  motto,  it  could  be  cut  out  and  appliqued  on.  We 
have  seen  a  beautiful  hanging  with  an  adornment  of  this 
kind,  the  letters  being  about  six  inches  in  length,  and  of 
black  on  a  lighter  ground. 

"We  think  some  ingenious  woman  could  make  a 

Patriotic  Screen 

Which  would  be  useful  and  striking.  Take  the  army  blue 
coat  which  some  brave  husband  or  brother  wore  home. 
Those  belonging  to  the  heroic  dead  are  perhaps  too  sacred  to 
be  converted  even  into  a  thing  of  beauty.  The  frame  could 
be  painted  with  a  succession  of  coats  of  Venetian  red  rubbed 
smooth  with  pumice-stone  and  water.  The  light  blue  cloth 
could  be  stretched,  and  the  edges  at  the  back  of  the  screen 
covered  with  a  narrow,  dark  blue  braid  and  tacked  on  with 
fancy  brass  tacks.  Across  the  light  blue  field  could  be  laid 
a  diagonal  band  of  dark  blue  cloth,  fastened  on  with  red 
and  gold  stitches  and-  with  army  buttons  at  intervals. 
Upon  the  dark  blue  could  be  outlined  in  red,  odd  designs, 
some  favorite  motto,  or  a  line  from  an  army  hymn. 

The  cap,  sword,  spurs,  and  pistol  make  a  handsome 
group  on  the  wall  with  a  background  of  crimson  felt. 
Small  banner  screens  (see  illustration  p.  275)  are  very 
pretty.  The  ground-work  is  of  pale  blue  satin.  The  border 
in  applique  is  of  dark  blue  velvet,  embroidered  in  crimson 
and  gold.  The  leaves  are  of  velvet,  and  the  stems  and 
tendrils  of  chenille.  Any  material  may  be  used  with  this 
design.  The  cords  and  tassels  are  sometimes  of  beads,  but  in 
any  case  they  must  harmonize  in  color. 


COVERING  AND  DECORATING  SCREENS.  275 

Lamp  Screens. 

Very  pretty  lamp  screens  are  made  in  the  same  way,  and 
mounted  upon  smaller  tripod  stands. 


Odd  Fan  Screens. 

The  frame  is  made  of  two  uprights  of  bamboo  fishing 
rod  joined  at  the  top  with  a  piece  of  bamboo  about  two 


276 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


inches  in  length,  neatly  glued  and  tacked  in.  The  uprights 
are  cut  off  within  about  four  inches  of  the  floor,  and  three 
short  legs  are  fastened  on  so  as  to  make  a  firm  spread  base. 
The  thickest  part  of  the  rod  serves  for  these  legs,  which  are 
cut  off  so  as  to  stand  firm  upon  the  floor.     A  small  square 


Fig.  6 1. 

of  ebonized  wood,  or  a  little  Japanese  tray  or  box-cover, 
forms  the  front  of  a  block  in  which  six  Japanese  fans  are 
set.  The  handles  have  to  be  somewhat  cut  off  so  as  to  fit 
the  holes  and  radiate  like  the  petals  of1  a  flower.  A  double 
purpose  is  served, — a  screen  in  winter  and  a  fan  stand  in 
summer. 

Mrs.  Gen.  Sheridan  saw  one  made  from  this  design,  and 
has  ordered  several  from  a  handy  workman  who  has  learned 
to  join  the  bamboo  nicely. 


LACE  LAMBREQUIN.  -^ 


LAMBREQUINS  AND  TABLES.  277 

Old  Clothes-Horse  Screen. 

The  frame- work  was  ebonized,  the  hinges  were  made  of 
two  long  strips  of  old-gold  colored  leather,  the  two  making 
the  length  of  the  upright.  They  were  tacked  on  with  brass 
nails  on  the  right  side  of  one  panel,  on  the  wrong  side  of  the 
other,  and  vice  versa.  A  little  piece  of  the  wood  was  cut 
away  under  the  hinges  to  let  the  frame  fold.  The  panels 
were  covered  with  some  old  linen  curtains  brought  from  the 
garret.  They  were  nicely  stretched,  covered  with  Christ- 
mas and  birthday  cards,  with  a  border  of  fancy  paper,  then 
varnished  with  white  copal  varnish. 

Lambrequins. 

They  are  not  as  much  in  use  as  formerly,  being  super- 
seded by  a  valence  which  will  shove  aside  with  the  curtains. 
Their  stationary  character,  and  the  fact  that  they  exclude 
the  light  from  the  top,  whence  it  is  so  desirable,  has  served 
to  make  them  unpopular,  though  they  are  still  made  in  rich 
material,  cut  in  all  manner  of  forms,  and  trimmed  with 
fringe  and  heavy  gimps. 

Tables. 

Many  an  old  table  could  be  made  good-looking  and  use- 
ful by  ebonizing  the  lower  part,  laying  a  thickness  of  wad- 
ding over  the  top,  and  covering  with  a  piece  of  crimson 
felting.  Braid  or  ribbon  could  be  appliqued  on  a  band  to 
go  round  the  table,  and  the  edge  could  be  trimmed  with 
worsted  fringe.  I  have  seen  a  half-moon-shaped  table 
covered  with  dark  blue  cloth,  and  with  a  fall  of  worsted 
embroidery  which   was  worked  in  subdivisions  by  half   a 


278 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


dozen  different  friends.      A  clover-leaf  table  is  now  often 
covered  with  fine  crash,  and  the  fall  embroidered  in  crewels. 

Table-Cover. 

The  illustration  shows  a  completed  design  of  an  orna- 
mental table-cover.      The  cover  is  often  made  very  much 


Fig.  62. 

longer,  affording   an    excellent  opportunity  for   decoration, 
and  adding,  of  course,  to  the  cost  and  labor  of  making. 

This     cover     is    of      fawn-colored    cloth,    ornamented 
elaborately  on  the  ends  in  application  embroidery. 


ANTIQUE  FURNITURE.  279 

The  design  figures  which  look  dark  in  the  illustration 
are  applied  in  brown  cloth ;  and  on  each  leaf  of  the  large 
middle  application  figure,  apply  a  piece  of  dark  brown  vel- 
vet. Edge  all  the  applied  figures  with  fawn-colored  soutache, 
and  besides,  ornament  the  pieces  of  velvet  in  point  rus.se 
embroidery  with  fawn-colored  saddler's  silk.  For  the  hues 
of  the  design,  sew  on  broad  soutache  in  two  shades.  The 
cover  is  bordered  with  light  brown,  open  silk  fringe,  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  wide.     The  lining  is  brown  percale. 

A  Friendship  Cushion 

Is  divided  by  black  lines  into  squares  a  few  inches  across, 
and  rilled  in  to  suit  the  taste  of  each  worker. 

Japanese  quilt,  described  under  chapter  on  screens, 
makes  a  handsome  chair  or  sofa  cushion,  especially  so  with 
a  diagonal  band  of  plush  across  it. 

Odds  and  Ends. 

There  is  just  now  a  great  fancy  for  the  old-fashioned 
flax  wheel  with  a  tuft  of  flax  tied  to  the  spindle  with 
ribbons.  It  is  certainly  a  picturesque  object,  and  very 
suggestive  of  the  old  and  charming  industry  by  which  our 
grandmothers  furnished  their  linen  closets  with  the  ex- 
cellent material  of  which  stray  table-cloths  and  tray-cloths 
come  down  as  heirlooms.  We  have  seen  a  tiny  wheel 
gilded.     It  was  very  pretty,  but  somewhat  theatrical. 

Cabinets 

Are  the  rage  at  present.  We  saw  one  lately  which  had 
adorned  a  garret  for  years.  It  now  occupies  the  place  of 
honor  between  the  front  windows  in  a  handsome  house.     It 


280         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

has  been  ebonized,  to  be  sure,  and  the  panels  of  the  doors 
gilded,  and  a  border  in  brown  and  gold  painted  across  the 
top  of  each  panel ;  but  the  old  thing  seems  puzzled  to  find 
itself  once  more  "  the  top  shelf,"  and  seems  to  consider  itself 
an  illustration  of  the  ups  and  downs  in  this  world. 

From  Nuremburg  have  come  countless  old  treasures  of 
this  sort.  We  think  perhaps  the  old  and  dusty  city  parts 
gladly  with  some  of  its  age  and  general  mustiness,  and 
replaces  the  old  things  with  new.  We  Americans,  in  our 
newness,  are  equally  charmed  to  acquire  things  which  were 
old  one  hundred  years  ago.  Many  fine  old  cabinets  come 
from  Holland,  and  Italy  gives  up  many  treasures  to  the 
hordes  of  Americans  who  come  armed  with  the  invincible 
dollar. 

Hall  Benches. 

Beautiful  inlaid  hall  benches  come  in  great  numbers 
from  Milan,  Genoa,  and  Florence.  We  have  heard  of  three 
within  as  many  weeks  coming  to  the  West.  All  along  the 
Hudson  River  there  are  treasures  of  old  Dutch  work  to  be 
seen,  claw-footed  "breeches,"  a  sort  of  buffet  and  stout- 
backed  old  chairs  in  mahogany.  Once  upon  a  time  the 
garret  of  one  of  the  old  Dutch  houses  in  Albany  gave  up  its 
own,  and  the  rush  of  curiosity  seekers  was  immense.  The 
South  is  now  considered  a  promising  field  for  the  old  furni- 
ture buyer.  We  have  seen  a  handsome,  old-fashioned 
mahogany  sideboard  brought  from  there,  which  was  of  use 
and  beauty  far  beyond  the  narrow,  "  high  shouldered " 
things  we  are  accustomed  to  see. 

Be  Original! 

It  is  a  pity  that  every  man  and  woman  in  furnishing  a 
house  cannot  work  after  the  fashion  of  "  The  Chambered 


ANTIQUE  FURNITURE.  281 

Nautilus, "  making  their  own  house  and  furniture,  or  at  least 
havinsr  it  made,  after  their  own  needs  and  notions.     This 

c"» 

originality  is  the  great  charm  of  the  antique. 

The  furniture  was  not  turned  out  by  the  thousand,  but 
each  piece  was  constructed  either  to  fill  an  order  or  all  "out 
of  the  carver's  brain,"  so  that  to  this,  to  any  day,  the  charm 
of  human  expression  hangs  about  the  work. 

I  think  the  rage  for  the  antique  in  furniture,  so  far  as  it 
is  a  fashion,  will  pass  away;  but  interesting  old  things  will 
always  be  treasured  by  those  who  feel  the  charm  of  old 
associations. 

Use  up  the  Pieces. 

A  friend  indulged  not  long  ago  in  some  crimson  felt  for 
a  screen.  There  were  some  pieces  left.  With  the  largest, 
.she  made  the  center  of  a  scarf  table-cloth,  putting  some  striped 
stuff  on  each  end ;  and  then  there  were  some  long  ribbons 
of  the  felt  left.  She  feather-stitched  them  in  old-gold,  and 
threaded  them  into  a  willow  chair,  where  they  did  much 
better  than  ribbons,  not  fading,  and  looking  more  like  use. 
A  little  piece  still  remained.  She  lined  it  with  pasteboard, 
first  having  worked  the  motto,  "Fast  Bind,  Fast  Find," 
upon  it,  and  made  an  excellent  brush-broom  holder  for  the 
hat  rack. 


G.HAPTRE    XI. 


SOME  NEW  DESIGNS  IN  EMBROIDERY.  —  LAMBREQUIN  AND 
CURTAINS. — MATERIALS  TO  USE,  AND  HOW  TO  CON- 
STRUCT.— AN  ELEGANT  SOFA  PILLOW. — A  NEW  AP- 
PLIQUE  DESIGN. — LACE   LAMBREQUIN. 


^»oJ*:c 


AMBREQUIN  AND  CURTAINS.— The  illus- 
tration is  so  plain  that  most  ladies  «can  easily 
construct  the  set  with  but  few  suggestions.  The 
materials  may  be  readily  .suited  to  the  means  and 
taste  of  the  owner.  The  lambrequin  is  com- 
posed of  three  pieces,  their  sizes,  of  course,  being- 
determined  by  the  window.  Each  of  the  side 
pieces  has  three  plaits  turning  inward,  and  the 
center  piece  three  plaits  running  cross-wise. 
t  The  trimmings  may  be  put  on  to  suit  the  taste, 
the  heavier  and  richer  the  material,  the  better 
the  effect.  The  curtains  may  be  canton  flannel 
trimmed  with  lace,  or  of  any  material  harmoniz- 
ing with  the  lambrequin. 

Sofa  Pillow. 

The  material  for  this  really  elegant  piece  should  be  of 
good  quality.  The  embroidery  is  worked  in  the  Janina 
stitch,  and  shows  oft*  to  most  excellent  advantage.  The  fol- 
lowing colors  look  quite  well,  and  we  recommend  the  com- 
bination here  suggested  :  Flowers,  blue  silk  ;  stamens, 
yellow  and  red;  lai-ge  leaves,  olive  green  ;  and  wood, 
brown.  The  stems,  small  leaves,  and  straight  lines  of  the 
border,  are  worked  with  golden-brown  silk  in  three  shades, 
the  stems  being  darker.  The  buds  are  worked  in  violet 
and  cream-colored  silk,  and  the  leaves  near  them  in  light 
green.      Edge   the   top   with   heavy  cord,    and   finish   the 

C2821 


CURTAINS  AND  LAMBREQUINS. 


l'n:; 


corners  with  tassels.      The  material  may  be  some  dark  cloth, 
suitable  to  the  taste  and  purse  of  the  possessor. 

Applique  De- 
sign for  Mantel 
or  Windoiv. — This 
design  would  be 
very  elegant  if 
made  of  plush, 
which  is  now  the 
most  popular  ma- 
terial. It  may,  how- 
ever, be  worked  in 
silk,  felt,  or  flannel; 
in  either  case,  cut 
out  your  pansies 
from  velvet.  This 
flower  has  so  many 
hues,  colors,  and 
shades,  that  odd 
bits  of  material,  as 
dark  red,  purple, 
white,  old  gold,  ma- 
roon,—  in  fact,  any 
tint, —  may  easily 
be  worked  in  with 
most  excellent  ef- 
fect, two  shades  be- 
ing used  for  each 
flower.  The  leaves 
and  buds  are  made 
of  green,  and  the 
stems    of    shaded 

green.  When  com- 
es 

pleted.    pre&s    the 
work  on  the  wrong 


ag!gSi8tr&?8r.  -  <i  ay 


Curtain  and   Lambrequin. 


side,  lining  it  with  some  suitable  heavy  material.  Work 
the  stems  in  vine  chain  stitch.  For  richness  of  effect,  we 
do  not  think  this  design  is  surpassed.  Directions  for  ap- 
plique work  are  given  on  page  241. 

■The  Lace   Lambrequin,   illustrated  opposite  page  284, 
is  elegant,  and  when  the  other  drapery  is  of  lace,  it  is  very 


284         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Pillow  in  Janina  Stitch. 


Applique 


appropriate.  These  lam- 
brequins can  be  found  at 
the  stores  ready  made, 
with  nothing  to  do  but 
fasten  them  to  the  cor- 
nice, which  should  be 
made  to  stand  out  so 
as  to  hold  the  lambre- 
quin clear  of  the  cur- 
tains. The  variety  of 
designs  is  almost  infin- 
ite, those  with  fern 
leaves  being  preferred. 


QHAPTER   XII . 


FURNISHINGS. — THE  HALL. — ITS  IMPRESSION  UPON  VISIT- 
ORS.  THE  PARLOR.  —  DINING-ROOM. HOW  TO  FUR- 
NISH THEM  AT  REASONABLE  COST. — EBONIZING  WOOD. 
— HOME-MADE   MANTELS,    RUGS,    CARPETS,    ETC. 


°>*c 


HE  suggestions  made  in  the  following  pages,  are 
offered  as  such.  No  authority,  however  high, 
can  fix  rules  which  will  be  followed  by  those 
whose  originality  leads  them  to  decorate  and  fur- 
nish their  homes  in  gfood  taste  without  regard  to 
fashion. 

The  Hall. — A  very  recent  and  trustworthy 
writer  says:  "  The  entrance  of  a  house  indicates 
the  character  of  the  entire  building,  the  lower 
hall  and  vestibule  often  furnishing  the  key-note 
to  the  whole  interior.  This  key-note  addressed 
to  the  eye  should  be  pitched  low ;  there  should  be  no  striking 
brilliancy  of  color,  although  warm  tones  are  admissible,  but 
a  leading  up,  as  it  were,  to  the  richer  hues  and  more  elabo- 
rate adornments  of  the  sheltered  apartments." 

Ordinary  halls  are  too  small  for  much  display,  if  here 
were  the  place  for  display.     Where  the  dimensions  of  the  hall 

[285] 


286 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


will  permit,  a  hall  table,  made  of  such  material  as  will  sug- 
gest strength  and  durability,  flanked  on  each  side  with 
chairs  of  like  design,  are  not  out  of  place.     A  small  bracket, 


Fig.  63. 


supporting  an  antique  jar  or  other  bric-a-brac,  is  often  very 
appropriate,  as  is  also  a  neat  holder  for  whisp  or  brush,  these 
being  valuable  adjuncts  to  any  hall. 


HOW  TO  FURNISH  BOOMS. 


287 


Where  the  hall  is  small,  a  mirror  framed  in  such  a  way 
as  to  admit  of  pegs  for  hats  and  coats  is,  perhaps,  as  appro- 


Fig.  64. 

priate  as  can  be  wished.     Fig.  63  gives  a  very  pretty  design. 
Such  a  design  may  be  cut  out  with  a  scroll-saw  or  by  your 


288  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

own  carpenter,  and  ebonized  according  to  the  recipe  given 
in  this  work,  and  furnished  with  a  mirror,  at  little  cost. 
Ebonized  wood  for  such  furniture  is  quite  popular. 

A  more  commodious,  and  of  course,  more  costly,  style  of 
hat,  coat,  and  umbrella  rack,  with  mirror  and  drawers,  is 
shown  in  Fig.  64. 

The  floor  can  be  treated  as  the  means  and  taste  of  the 
owner  dictate.  Tiles  have  been  suggested  already,  but  less 
costly  material  may  be  selected,  as  oil  carpet,  or  Lineoleum, — 
a  thick,  durable  covering  resembling  oil  carpet,  but  made  of 
ground  cork.  A  plain  or  stained  floor  with  a  neat  rug  often 
makes  a  pretty  appearance. 

The  Reception-Room,  Parlor,  and  Library. 

The  question  of  first  importance  in  the  furnishing  of  the 
drawing-room,  parlor,  or  in  fact  any  room,  is  whether  the 
floor,  ceilings,  and  walls  are  to  be  the  background  for  deco- 
rative objects,  or  are  themselves  to  furnish  the  decorative 
features.  If  the  walls  and  ceilings  are  covered  with  costly 
and  showy  paper,  and  the  floor  carpeted  with  brilliant 
colors,  no  furniture,  however  costly,  will  show  ofF  to  good 
effect,  as  opinions  on  the  subjects  are  very  decided.  Then 
let  this  question  first  be  settled  before  a  single  step  is  taken 
toward  furnishing  the  room.  Under  chapters  I  to  VII, 
will  be  found  practical  suggestions  upon  the  treatment  of 
walls,  ceilings,  etc. 

Regarding  carpets,  much  might  be  said  and  with  little 
effect,  as  opinions  on  this  subject  are  very  decided.  One 
who  gets  glimpses  of  many  parlors,  has  observed  that  in  the 
average  home  the  carpet  is  too  costly  for  the  other  fur- 
nishings of  the  room. 


HOW  TO  FURNISH  BOOMS. 


!>89 


Imitating  the  Oriental  style,  many  persons  of  taste  have 
contented  themselves  with  a  large  rug  on  a  stained  floor. 
Home-made  rugs,  among  people  who  are  not  slaves  to  fash- 
ion, are  not  considered  out  of  place  in  the  parlor.     Such 


Fig.  65. 


people  can  render  an  apartment  very  attractive  and  at  the 
same  time  comfortable,  with  small  outlay. 

The  mantel  is  a  feature  that  never  escapes  the  eye  of  a 
visitor;  its  contents  therefore  should  receive  attention.     It 

19 


290 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


is  the  place  for  the  display  of  pretty  things,  as  vases,  curi- 
osities, etc. 

Many  people    cannot   afford  the  expensive   mantels   of 
marble,  carved  wood,  and  marbleized  slate,  but  they  can 


Fig.  66. 


afford  a  plain  mantel  of  wood  which  they  may  render  very 
attractive  by  the  following  method : — 

"  Take  panels,  or  squares  of  glass,  and  if  one  is  not  artist 


STYLE  OF  LOUNGE. 


291 


enough  to  venture  on  original  designs,  select  pleasing  pict- 
ures of  birds,  flowers,  grains,  children,  animals,  or  landscapes, 


op' 


from  the  great  chromo-field,  cut  them  out  nicely,  and  gum 
them  upon  the  glass,  face  downward,  covering  the  whole 


292 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


with  a  coat  of  paint  in  shades  of  blue*  lavender,  or  sea-green. 
The  right  side  of  the  glass  then  bears  a  fair  resemblance  to 
a  china  painting.  These  panels  are  easily  and  inexpensively 
made,  and  when  fastened  on  the  wood-work,  with  narrow 
black  strips  or  moldings,  have  almost  as  good  effect  as  the 
costlier  tile  mantels." 

The  mantel  can  be  ebonrzed  in  the  same  way  as  the  hat 
rack,  and  it  may  be  still  more  improved  by  placing  a  long, 
narrow  mirror  lengthwise  on  the  shelf. 


Fig.  6a 

Small  hanging  cabinets,  with  doors  and  a  shelf  above, 
may  take  the  place  of  costlier  furniture,  and  indeed,  they 
may  serve  to  set  off  the  larger  pieces  to  good  effect.  An  or- 
dinary carpenter  can  make  them,  and  if  the  panels  of  the 
doors  are  decoratedwith  nothing  better  than  transfer  pictures 
well  varnished,  they  will  be  very  pretty. 

Chairs  should  never  sacrifice  comfort  for  appearance; 
large,  easy  reading  or  library  chairs  like  those  illustrated  in 
Figs.  65  and  66  are  suggestive  of  comfort.  A  lounge  of  the 
style  given  in  Fig.  67  is  more  useful  and  graceful  than  the 
stereotyped   semi-circular  settee,  while  the  hassock  or  stool 


THE  DINING-ROOM.  993 

with  castors,  Fig.  68,  is  far  more  serviceable  than  the  awk- 
ward ottoman. 

The  Dining-Room. 

This  room,  of  all  others,  should  be  the  most  cheerful; 
good  digestion  depends  upon  thorough,  careful  mastication 
of  the  food,  which  requires  time,  and  no  one  is  apt  to  give 
himself  ample  time  in  a  cheerless  dining-room. 

At  the  dining-room  table  the  members  of  the  family  are 
united  in  motive,  and  should  be  in  heart.  Then  let  this  be  a 
cheerful  room.  Let  the  chairs  be  comfortable,  arrange  a  few 
choice  pictures  on  the  wall,  and  if  a  neat  sideboard  is  beyond 
question,  put  up  wall  shelves,  and  leave  them  the  natural 
color  of  the  wood  finished  in  oil.  and  above  all  else  avoid  too 
many  mottoes.  If  it  can  be  so  arranged,  let  the  floor  be 
covered,  at  least  around  the  table,  with  a  good  oil-carpet, 
and  stain  the  floor  with  some  convenient  stain,  finishing 
with  two  coats  of  shellac,  which  is  easily  cleaned. 

If  the  dining-room  is  also  used  as  a  living-room,  of 
course  it  may  be  carpeted  all  over  as  usual. 


GHA-p'TRR    XIII. 


BED-ROOMS. — HOW     TO    MAKE     THEM     CHEERFUL,    COMFORT- 
ABLE,   AND     HEALTHFUL.  —  BED-ROOM     FURNITURE.  

CHEAP     BUT    USEFUL     FURNITURE. — HOW   TO    MAKE     A 
BED-ROOM   TABLE. — WASH-STAND   WITH   DRAPERY. 


oXKc 


N  the  furnishing  of  bed-rooms,  the  individuality 
of  the  housewife  asserts  itself  very  strongly. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  from  one-fourth 
to  one-third  of  our  time  is  spent  in  our  bed- 
rooms, no  argument  is  necessary  to  prove  that  it 
should  be  rendered  the  most  pleasant. 

Of  course  the  bed  itself  is  the  principal  feature. 
Too  much  is  apt  to  be  expended  upon  the  bed- 
stead. More  attention  should  be  paid  to  the 
springs  and  mattresses.  It  is  an  easy  matter 
from  among  the  multitude  of  patterns  to  secure 
easy  and  durable  springs  at  reasonable  cost.  The  best 
mattress  is  made  of  hair;  for  health,  the  common  husk 
mattress,  with  wool  or  cotton  top,  equals  the  hair,  and  is, 
moreover,  very  cheap.  Avoid  high  beds;  who  does  not 
remember  the  beds  of  our  grandfathers,  requiring  the  aid  of 

a  treacherous  chair  to  get  into  them  ? 
[294] 


THE  DRESSING  BUREAU. 


295 


For  decorative  effect,  the  bed  is  the  least  important 
feature  of  the  room.  Usually  the  wall-paper,  carpet, 
brackets,  pictures,  lounge,  table,  and  bureau  or  dressing-case, 


en 


if  all  or  a  part  of  these  can  be  afforded,  add  more  to  the 
cosiness  of  the  room,  than  the  bed.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
purchase  a  plain  bedstead  and  devote  more  to  the  other  fur- 
niture. 


296 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


The  Dressing  Bureau. 

Where  it  can  be  afforded,  a  bureau  is  very  desirable ;  it 
should  be  of  size  corresponding  with  the  size  of   the  room. 


Unless  there  is  a  good  closet  or  a  table  with  drawers,  the  bu- 
reau is  almost  a  necessity.  Marble  tops  are  to  be  con- 
demned where  articles  of  glass  or  fine  china  come  in  contact 
with  them. 


Fig,  7  i. 


BEDSTEAD  AND  DRAPERY.  297 

A  recent  writer  on  this  matter  says  of  the  bed-room 
table:  "  Quite  an  inexpensive  one  may  be  made  from  a  dry- 
goods  box  three  feet  high,  four  wide,  and  two  and  a  half 
feet  deep,  with  four  blocks  of  wood,  one  inch  thick  and  four 
inches  square,  nailed  beneath  each  corner,  to  which  casters 
are  fastened.  The  box  is  placed  with  open  side  out,  and 
fitted  with  a  convenient  shelf  or  two.  The  whole  interior 
should  be  neatly  papered. 

"  On  the  top  at  the  back,  one  or  two  small  boxes  may 
be  fastened,  and  the  entire  top  covered  with  oil-cloth  or 
other  suitable  material,  and  the  front  may  be  hung  with 
drapery  concealing  the  inside  shelves.  Another  plan  would 
be  to  sand-paper  the  outside  and  finish  in  shellac  varnish. 
Much  ingenuity  can  be  displayed  and  money  saved,  by 
watching  the  fashion  and  other  journals  and  carrying  out 
their  sugrsestions." 


*&»* 


Bedstead  and  Drapery. 

Our  illustration  presents  a  very  neat  bedstead  and 
drapery.  The  hangings  are  of  muslin  and  net,  worked  in 
satin  and  slanting  stitch,  over-cast  at  the  edges.  The  green 
quilted  silk  counterpane  is  laid  inside  a  fine  linen  case, 
embroidered  around  the  edges  and  buttoned  over  the  quilt 
as  shown.  The  pillow  is  trimmed  with  lace  insertion  and  a 
double  muslin  frill,  and  embroidered  at  the  corners,  where 
it  is  also  ornamented  with  a  bow  of  colored  ribbon.  At  the 
foot  of  the  bed  is  a  second  cover  of  chintz  or  dimity,  also 
trimmed  with  lace  or  frills. 

Brackets  made  with  the  scroll-saw  can  be  used  to 
advantage  to  hold  books,  curiosities,  china,  etc.  The  toilet- 
table  or  wash-stand  affords  an  excellent  chance  for  the  dis- 


298 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


play  of  taste,  the  indispensable  splasher  and  towel-rack 
may  be  articles  of  home  manufacture,  while  a  neat-figured 
damask  towel  will  answer  quite  well  for  a  marble  top. 

In  bed-rooms,  where  space  must  be  economized,  the 


new  style  wardrobe  and  bedstead  combined,  may  be  used  to 
excellent  advantage.  Our  illustration  gives  all  necessary 
details.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  wardrobe  is  located  behind 
the  head  of  the  bedstead.  At  each  end  is  a  door  opening 
into  the  wardrobe,  and  hooks  are  attached  to  a  piece  which 
slides  in  and  out. 


Fig.  73. 


DRAPERY  AND  TOILET-STAND.  299 

Two  drawers  for  linen  are  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the 
wardrobe,  and  the  whole  space  is  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as 
capacious  as  a  bureau  or  separate  wardrobe.  The  doors 
close  tightly  so  as  to  prevent  dust  from  entering. 

Large  pictures  are  out  of  place  in  a  bed-room.  A  few 
engravings, — nothing  of  the  "  death-bed-of- Washington 
style," — with  photographs  of  a  few  friends,  are  very  appro- 
priate. 

The  color  of  carpet  and  wall-paper  should  not  be  too 
dark,  and  the  drapings  of  the  windows  should  be  such  as  to 
admit  the  sunlight  freely. 

Cane  or  leather  seated  chairs  are  sold  at  such  rates  that 
most  people  can  afford  them.  The  easy  rocker  seems 
almost  indispensable,  especially  in  event  of  sickness  in  the 
household. 

Our  ideal  bed-room  is  among  the  best,  if  not  the  best, 
room  in  the  house,  except,  perhaps,  the  family  sitting- 
room. 

Drapery  for  Toilet-Stand. 

On  the  opposite  page  we  give  an  illustration  showing 
how  the  commonest  and  plainest  bed-room  may  be  rendered 
beautiful  and  attractive  by  the  aid  of  a  little  taste  and  cheap 
material.  The  toilet-stand  may  be  a  cheap  table,  with  a 
shelf  erected  on  the  top  for  toilet  articles,  and  a  bracket 
higher  up  for  perfume  articles,  etc. 

Oil-cloth  of  any  desired  color  may  cover  the  table,  cut  in 
any  shape  to  suit  the  fancy,  the  edges  being  bound  with  braid 
to  correspond.  The  shelves  and  brackets  may  be  covered  to 
correspond  with  the  table,  and  the  whole  draped  with  muslin 
or  other  material,  edged  with  lace,  or  trimmed  to  suit  the 


300  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

taste,  or   in   harmony  with   the  other   adornments  of  the 


room. 


Shelves  may  be  made  under  the  table,  and  a  curtain  of 
coarser  material  suspended  from  its  edges  conceals  them. 
These  shelves  may  be  used  for  shoes,  slippers,  etc. 


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[301] 


)SJ(sOD  might  have  bade  the  earth  bring  forth 

Enough  for  great  and  small; 
The  oak-tree  and  the  cherry-tree, 

Without  a  flower  at  all. 
We  might  have  had  enough,  enough 

For  every  want  of  ours, 
For  luxury,  medicine,  and  toil, 

And  yet  have  had  no  flowers. 


Our  outward  life  requires  them  not; 

Then  wherefore  had  they  birth  ? 
To  minister  delight  to  man, 

To  beautify  the  earth; 
To  comfort  man,  to  whisper  hope, 

Whene'er  his  faith  is  dim, 
For  whoso  careth  for  the  flowers 

Will  care  much  more  for  Him. 

— Mary  Howitt. 


[302] 


CLxFIAF>/FBJ?.    I. 


THE  CULTURE  OF  FLOWERS. — HOW  TO  HAVE  THRIVING 
PLANTS  AND  ABUNDANCE  OF  FLOWERS. — USEFUL  SUG- 
GESTIONS.— HOW  TO  CONSTRUCT  AND  MANAGE  HOT- 
BEDS  AND   FLOWER-BEDS. 


°*K« 


HERE  is  no  employment  which  tends  to  the 
development  of  the  better  nature  of  men  and 
women  more  than  the  culture  of  flowers.  How- 
ever humble  the  circumstances,  the  possession 
and  culture  of  at  least  a  few  choice  varieties, 
will  make  the  home  more  tidy,  and  lend  an  air 
of  refinement  not  to  be  attained  in  any  other 
way.  An  English  writer  says:  "To  have  a 
flower  garden  is  to  have  many  friends  con- 
tinually near.  Indeed,  who  will  say  that  flowers 
do  not  lend  a  companionship  to  those  who  faith- 
fully care  for  them  ? " 

There  is  perhaps  no  better  index  of  refinement  in  a 
home  than  the  presence  of  flowers.  It  is  no  doubt  very 
difficult  in  large  cities,  where  the  yards  are  of  small  dimen- 
sions, to  do  much  in  the  way  of  flower  gardens,  but  even 
there  a  few  varieties,  planted  in  the  back  yard,  can  be  made 

[303] 


304  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

to  furnish  many  a  bouquet  for  the  breakfast,  dinner,  or  tea- 
table. 

In  the  smaller  cities  and  towns,  and  in  the  country,  no 
excuse  can  be  offered  for  the  neglect  of  flowers. 

Many  plead  want  of  time,  but  the  excuse  is  not  a  good 
one,  for  but  few  minutes  per  day  are  required,  and  these 
few  minutes  furnish  just  such  relaxation  as  every  one  needs 
to  keep  away  the  wrinkles,  cares,  and  perplexities  of  regular 
employment;  besides,  the  satisfaction  and  happiness  gained 
in  their  care  generally  repay  the  possessor  for  all  the  atten- 
tion they  require. 

Brief  Hints  on  Sowing  and  Cultivating. 

In  the  outset  do  not  make  the  common  mistake  of  most 
new  beginners,  and  undertake  too  many  varieties  at  once, 
giving  all  the  same  treatment,  for  defeat  will  attend  the 
effort. 

A  good  plan  is  to  procure  a  seed  catalogue,  like  D.  M. 
Ferry  &  Co.'s,  of  Detroit,  and  others,  which  will  tell  you 
what  every  flower  is,  its  culture,  and  when  to  expect 
flowers.  Select  from  the  catalogue  a  dozen  or  more  good 
varieties,  and  content  yourself  with  their  culture  until 
you  can  secure  good  results,  and  then  increase  your  stock. 

The  following  hints  will  be  of  value  in  their  care  and 
culture : — 

Selection  of  Varieties. — Success  in  flower  culture  depends 
quite  largely  upon  a  judicious  selection  of  varieties.  Every 
sort  is,  under  certain  conditions,  attractive  and  desirable ;  but 
some  of  them,  while  exceedingly  beautiful  under  favorable 
circumstances,  will  be  most  unsatisfactory  and  little  better 
than  weeds  under  others. 


SOWING  AND  CULTIVATING  FLOWERS.  305 

The  Soil. — Another  great  object  to  be  considered  is  the 
soil  into  which  flower  seeds  are  to  be  sown.  The  soil  best 
adapted  to  flowering  plants  generally,  is  a  light,  friable  loam, 
containing  a  sufficient  amount  of  sand  to  render  it  porous. 
A  great  many  varieties  will  live  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil, 
except  it  be  extremely  dry,  calcareous,  or  of  a  stiff,  heavy 
character;  still,  to  give  them  a  fair  chance  for  development, 
some  little  pains  should  be  taken  in  adding  to  the  soil,  as 
much  as  possible,  what  may  be  wanting  in  it.  Most  flowers 
are  better  if  produced  on  plants  of  most  vigorous  growth,  so 
the  greater  portion  of  the  garden  should  be  prepared  by 
deep  digging,  thorough  pulverization,  and  liberal  enriching 
with  large  quantities  of  well-rotted  manure.  On  the  other 
hand,  some  sorts  do  best  on  very  poor  soil,  so  a  portion  of 
the  garden  should  be  left  without  enriching  at  all.  As  the 
process  of  germination  is  shorter  or  longer  in  the  different 
kinds  of  seeds,  the  patience  of  the  cultivator  is  often  sorely 
tried  with  seeds  of  a  slowly  germinating  character;  the 
patience  of  a  devoted  florist,  however,  is  never  exhausted  in 
these  manipulations,  and  the  certainty  of  his  final  success 
repays  him  fully  for  the  trouble. 

Sowing  the  Seed. — Nine-tenths  of  the  failures  in  flower 
culture  come  from  improper  treatment  of  the  seeds  and 
young  plants ;  and  we  urge  every  one  who  makes  an  attempt 
to  train  and  care  for  flowers,  to  study  our  descriptions  of 
each  variety  found  in  the  succeeding  pages,  observing  the 
following  general  rules : — 

Make  the  surface  as  fine  and  smooth  as  possible.  Do 
not  plant  any  of  the  seeds  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

Cover  each  sort  of  seed  to  a  depth  proportionate  to  its 
size;   the  finest,  like  portulaca,  not  more  than  one-quarter 

20 


306  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

inch  deep;  those  the  size  of  a  pin  head  one-half  inch,  and 
those  as  big  as  a  pea  one  inch. 

Press  the  soil  down  firmly  over  the  seed.  After  making 
the  soil  as  fine  as  possible  with  the  rake,  make  it,  for  the 
smaller  seeds,  still  finer,  by  crushing  the  lumps  up  in  the 
hands. 

Procure  a  bit  of  lath  (it  would  be  better  if  planed 
smooth)  about  two  feet  long,  press  the  edge  down  into  the 
soil  evenly,  so  as  to  make  a  groove  as  deep  as  the  seed  is  to 
be  planted ;  scatter  the  seed  along  this,  allowing  four  or  five 
of  the  larger,  or  fifteen  to  twenty  of  the  smaller  seeds  to  the 
space  one  plant  is  to  occupy  when  grown.  Take  care  not 
to  spill  any  of  the  seeds  between  the  rows.  Cover  the  seed 
by  pinching  the  earth  together  over  it;  then  turn  your  lath 
flat-ways,  and  press  the  soil  down  firmly  and  evenly. 

Put  a  little  stick  at  each  end  of  each  row,  so  as  to  mark 
it,  then  pull  up  all  weeds  that  appear  between  the  rows  the 
first  day  they  can  be  seen.  Do  not  pull  plants  out  of  the 
row  unless  you  are  sure  they  are  weeds. 

Classification  of  Flowers. 

All  flowers,  raised  from  seed,  are  usually  known  as 
Annuals,  Biennials,  or  Perennials. 

Annuals  are  those  plants  which  flower  or  ripen  their 
seeds  or  fruits  the  season  they  are  sown,  and  then  perish. 
This  class  of  plants  is  again  divided  by  the  cultivator  into 
two  classes, — the  Hardy,  and  the  Half-hardy  or  tender  kinds. 

Hardy  Annuals  are  those  which  require  no  artificial 
heat  at  any  period  of  their  growth,  every  stage  of  their 
development,  from  germination  to  ripening  of  the  seed,  being- 
passed  in  the  open  ground. 


CLASSIFICATION  OF  FLOWERS.  307 

They  are  the  most  easily  cultivated  of  all  plants;  the 
number  of  their  varieties  is  large,  and  their  flowers,  when 
properly  grown,  are  frequently  of  most  attractive  beauty 
and  elegance.  It  is  only  to  be  regretted  that  they  are  not 
generally  cultivated  to  that  extent  to  which  their  merit 
justly  entitles  them.  The  seed  may  be  sown  from,  the  first 
of  April  to  the  middle  of  June,  along  the  border,  in  little 
patches  four  or  six  inches  square,  or  in  drills,  on  the  spot 
where  they  are  wanted  to  blossom ;  and  in  doing  so,  care 
should  be  taken  to  have  the  different  varieties  arranged  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  produce  a  pleasing  effect  when  they  are 
in  bloom. 

Half -hardy  Annuals  are  those  species  that  flower  and 
ripen  their  seeds  in  the  open  air,  but  need  the  assistance  of 
artificial  heat  in  the  earlier  stages  of  their  growth.  They 
should  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  or  in  pots  in  a  green-house,  if 
one  is  available,  or  in  a  sunny  window.  Keep  them  well 
shaded,  which  will  prevent  absorption  by  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  the  consequent  necessity  of  frequent  watering, 
which  bakes  the  soil,  and  does  much  mischief  to  seeds  of 
slow  growth.  Toward  the  middle  or  end  of  May,  many  of 
the  seedlings  will  be  ready  for  transplanting  to  borders ;  but 
previous  to  this  exposure,  it  will  be  necessary  to  harden 
them,  preparatory  to  removal,  by  gradually  admitting  air 
to  the  frame  both  day  and  night. 

Biennials  and  Perennials.-^-Bienmals  are  those  plants 
that  do  not  generally  flower  the  first  year,  and  are  only  in 
perfection  one  season.  Perennials  continue  to  flower  several 
years  in  succession.  The  seed  may  be  sown,  as  has  already 
been  stated,  at  times  when  the  ground  is  moist,  but  not 
very  wet,  from  the  first  of  April  to  August.     Many  of  them 


308         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

>  may  be  raised  in  the  open  ground,  like  hardy  annuals,  and 
transplanted;  but  tender  or  half-hardy  kinds  should  be 
sown  as  directed  for  half-hardy  annuals.  As  they  do  not 
generally  bloom  the  first  year,  they  may  be  thinned  out  or 
removed  from  the  seed-bed  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted, 
and  planted  either  in  different  parts  of  the  garden,  or  into 
nursery  beds,  in  rows  a  foot  apart.  The  half-hardy  or 
tender  biennials  must  be  kept  during  winter  in  a  green- 
house or  dry  cellar,  and  tender  perennials  must  be  protected 
from  frost  by  a  cloth  or  mat  being  fastened  or  tied  around 
them,  and  covered  afterward  with  leaves  or  litter. 

Brief  directions  for  sowing  are  given  in  our  descriptions 
of  varieties;  still,  to  render  success  more  certain,  a  careful 
observance  of  the  above  directions,  which  are  based  on  the 
practical  experience  of  growers,  will  be  found  of  great 
benefit  to  inexperienced  florists. 

Hot-bed  Culture. — Many  varieties  of  flowers  can  scarcely 
be  brought  to  perfection  without  the  assistance  of  hot-bed  or 
cold-frame,  and  much  care  is  often  necessary  in  transplant- 
ing, sheltering,  and  pricking  out  the  young  plants.  It  is  a 
work  that  requires  much  experience,  and  no  doubt  many 
disappointments  will  naturally  occur.  Still,  a  hot-bed  is  a 
necessity,  without  the  aid  of  which  many  of  our  choicest  and 
most  beautiful  flowers  cannot  be  successfully  grown.  Ex- 
perience is  a  rapid  teacher,  and  the  lover  of  flowers  is  an  apt 
scholar. 

How  to  Make  a  Hot-Bed. 

A  hot-bed  that  may  be  used  for  the  germination  of  either 
flower  or  garden  seeds,  may  be  made  at  little  expense  in  the 
following  manner:     If  possible,  it  should  be  built  against 


HOW  TO  MAKE  A  HOT-BED.  309 

the  south  side  of  a  shed  or  board  fence,  as  this  arrangement 
will  protect  it  from  winds  and  will  increase  the  heat.  Con- 
struct a  box  or  frame  of  boards,  two  feet  high  on  the  side 
that  is  to  face  the  south,  and  one  and  one-half  feet  higher  on 
the  opposite  side;  when  the  frame  is  in  place,  fill  it  with 
nearly  fresh  manure  from  a  horse  stable,  to  the  depth  of  one 
and  a  half  feet.  Fit  sashes,  with  panes  of  glass  lapping  like 
shingles,  over  the  top,  and  let  it  stand  two  or]  three  days,  or 
longer  if  the  weather  is  cold;  now  fill  in  on  top  of  the 
manure  from  four  to  six  inches  of  good,  rich,  finely  pulver- 
ized garden  soil,  which,  if  of  stiff  clay,  should  be  mixed 
with  sand,  and  cover  the  bed  as  before ;  leave  it  for  a  few 
days,  taking  the  precaution  to  raise  a  bank  of  earth  around 
the  outside  of  the  frame  to  further  protect  it.  After  a 
few  days,  stir  the  soil  and  sow  the  seeds  in  drills  marked 
with  flat  sticks.  Label  the  sticks  with  each  variety.  Give 
the  bed  fresh  air  each  day,  and  sprinkle  ,with  warm  water 
as  often  as  may  be  required. 

Use  great  care  in  attending  to  the  bed.  When  the  day 
is  warm  the  sash  should  be  lifted,  and  replaced  at  night,  and 
unless  it  is  cold  enough  to  chill  the  plants,  fresh  air  should 
be  admitted,  at  all  times. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  bed  "heats,"  and  it  is 
necessary  then  to  watch  it  closely.  Examine  it  by  plunging 
the  hand  down  several  inches;  if  it  is  hot,  remove  the  sash, 
use  water,  not  cold,  and  make  deep  holes  in  the  bed  with 
sticks  for  the  escape  of  heat,  and  fill  them  up  when  the  heat 
is  reduced.  If  the  nights  are  very  cold,  cover  the  frame  with 
mats  or  blankets.  If  such  a  frame  is  made  large  enough, 
garden  vegetables  can  be  had  several  weeks  earlier  than 
when  grown  in  the  ordinary  manner. 


310  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Flowers  may  also  be  raised  by  planting  the  seeds  in  the 
pots  intended  for  them,  and  sinking  them  in  the  hot-bed. 

The  Flower  Garden. 

Where  it  is  possible,  flower  gardens  should  be  so  located 
as  to  be  shaded  from  the  afternoon  sun.  Elaborate  beds 
are  to  be  avoided  unless  one  has  abundant  time  to  devote  to 
their  care.  An  endless  variety  of  simple  designs  for  beds 
can  be  arranged,  and  the  simpler  the  better  for  the  effect, 
unless  much  elaboration  can  be  afforded. 

Spade  the  beds  very  deep  and  mix  manure,  sand,  and 
rotted  leaves  with  the  soil,  raising  them  very  little  above  the 
surface.  4 

For  borders,  use  brick  set  edgewise,  large,  smooth  pebbles, 
or  narrow  planking.  Strips  of  turf,  if  the  grass  is  kept  well 
clipped,  also  make  a  pretty  border. 

Well-sodded  mounds,  topped  with  low  flowers,  look  quite 
pretty,  but  in  dry  weather  they  are  very  liable  to  dry  out, 
and  need  abundance  of  water. 


Ghaptre   I  J. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  VARIETIES. — A  LIST  OF  BULBS,  WITH  METH- 
ODS OF  TREATMENT.  —  CLIMBERS.  — ANNUALS.  —  VARIE- 
TIES  SUITABLE   FOR   ALL   PURPOSES. 


-ooXKc 


HE  following  descriptions  will  be  of  great  value 

in  the  selection  of  flowers.     The  list  includes  all 

kinds, — Climbers,   Bulbs,    Annuals,   and  Hardy 

Shrubs. 

Bulbs. 


Tuberose. — Of  all  the  summer  flowering,  bulb- 
ous plants,  we  think  the  tuberose  the  most  desira- 
ble. The  flowers  are  waxy  white,  double,  and 
so  fragrant  as  to  perfume  the  whole  atmosphere 
for  some  distance  around.  They  are  useful  for 
making  button-hole  bouquets,  in  large  bouquets,  or 
as  single  specimens.  Each  bulb  flowers  only  once,  but  the 
smaller  bulbs  can  be  set  out  for  future  flowering  when  their 
growth  is  completed.  A  good  way  to  grow  tuberoses  is  to 
rill  five-inch  pots  half  full  of  cow  manure,  and  the  remainder 
with  good,  rich  earth,  mixed  with  sand.  Plant  the  bulbs  in 
this  in  April,  water  moderately,  and  hasten  growth  by 
putting  in  a  warm,  light  place.     When  the  weather  has  be- 

[3ll| 


312  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

come  warm,  plunge  the  pots  in  the  earth,  out  of  doors. 
They  will  usually  flower  before  cold  weather  in  autumn;  if 
they  do  not,  the  pots  can  be  brought  in,  and  they  will 
bloom  in  the  house. 

Cyclamen.  —  Well-known  and  universally  admired 
bulbous-rooted  plants,  producing  exceedingly  handsome  red 
and  white  flowers.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  spring,  and 
by  autumn  will  produce  a  bulb,  which  if  potted  and  placed 
in  a  conservatory  or  green-house,  will  blossom  the  following 
spring.     Propagated  only  from  seed. 

Cyclamen,  persicum,  mixed,  green-house  variety  of 
great  beauty,  and  many  colors. 

Madeira-Vine. — Tuberous-rooted  climber,  with  glossy 
green  leaves  and  delightfully  fragrant  white  blossoms,  some- 
times called,  "  Mignonette  vine."  It  is  of  rapid  growth,  and 
from  a  few  tubers,  vines  will  be  produced  sufficient  to  cover 
one  side  of  a  cottage.  The  tubers  are  tender,  and  must  be 
protected  from  frost  during  the  winter. 

Lily. — The  lily  has  been,  with  eminent  propriety,  styled 
the  "  Queen  of  Flowers,"  and  truly  no  flower  conveys  so 
adequate  an  idea  of  queenly  beauty,  majestic  grandeur,  and 
faultless  purity,  as  the  Lily.  Their  culture  is  simple,  and 
with  a  little  care,  failure  is  impossible.  Select  a  deep,  rich 
soil,  enrich  it  well  with  thoroughly  decomposed  manure,  and 
set  the  bulbs  from  three  to  six  inches  deep,  according  to  size. 
In  the  autumn  the  bed  should  be  protected  by  a  liberal 
covering  of  leaves  or  litter,  and  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  bulbs  have  proper  drainage,  no  water  being  allowed  to 
stand  around  the  roots.  The  bulbs  can  be  transplanted 
either  in  spring  or  autumn,  but  should  be  kept  out  of  the 
ground  the  shortest  possible  time.     Once  firmly  established, 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BULBS.  313 

they  should  not  be  disturbed  oftener  than  once  in  five  years. 
Many  of  the  varieties  force  well  in  the  green-house,  but  are 
more  suitable  for  parlor  culture. 

Bleeding  Heart. —  This  is  a  tuberous-rooted  plant, 
blooming  in  the  spring,  and  favorably  known  almost  every- 
where. It  requires  only  the  ordinary  culture  of  border 
plants.  Roots  planted  in  autumn  will  flower  freely  in  the 
spring.  The  roots  should  be  divided  every  third  year. 
The  flowers  are  a  delicate  pink  color,  very  graceful,  pro- 
duced continuously  from  May  to  July. 

Dahlia. — The  dahlia  has  always  been  a  favorite  for 
autumn  flowering.  The  flowers  are  so  symmetrical  and 
perfect,  and  the  range  of  brilliant  colors  so  wide  and  varied, 
that  they  will  always  be  popular  where  display  is  wanted. 
The  roots  are  tender,  and  easily  injured  by  frost.  They 
should  be  set  out]  three  feet  apart,  after  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over,  and  placed  in  a  cool  cellar,  and  not  be  allowed  to 
freeze  during  winter.  The  plants  should  be  supported  by 
tying  to  stakes. 

Gladiolus. — Magnificent  plants,  with  sword-like  leaves 
and  long  spikes  of  flowers  of  every  conceivable  color  and 
shade.  The  varieties  are  now  numbered  almost  by  thou- 
sands, each  year  bringing  forth  new  and  choice  selections 
which  have  been  produced  from  seed,  this  being  the  only 
method  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  The  bulb,  which  is 
produced  from  seed,  requires  three  years'  growth  before 
being  of  sufficient  size  to  flower  well.  They  should  be  taken 
up  on  approach  of  winter,  and  kept  from  freezing  till  warm 
weather  in  spring,  and  then  planted  out  in  groups  and 
borders. 

Calla. — An  old  and  very  desirable  plant,  either  as  an 


314         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

aquatic,  or  for  the  ornamentation  of  the  drawing-room  and 
conservatory.  Thrives  in  any  light,  rich  soil  when  plenti- 
fully watered.  The  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  green- 
house in  early  spring,  produce  small  bulbs  in  the  fall,  which 
should  be  repotted  in  rich  soil.  The  production  of  large 
plants  from  .seed  takes  some  time,  but  the  beautiful  creamy- 
white  flowers  are  an  ample  reward  for  the  care  and  patience 
bestowed.     Half-hardy  perennial. 

Climbers. 

Clematis. — Well  known  and  universally  admired  climb- 
ers, some  of  the  varieties  being  remarkable  for  the  beauty 
and  fragrance  of  their  blossoms.  Fine  for  covering  arbors, 
verandas,  etc.,  as  they  cling  readily  to  almost  any  object. 
Most  of  the  kinds  are  hardy,  herbaceous  perennials,  but 
some  little  protection  in  Northern  latitudes,  through  winter, 
is  advised.     Will  do  well  in  any  good  garden  soil. 

Cypress-Vine. — A  most  beautiful  climber,  with  delicate, 
dark-green,  feather  foliage,  and  an  abundance  of  bright, 
star-shaped,  rose,  scarlet,  and  white  blossoms,  which  in  the 
bright  sunshine  present  a  mass  of  beauty.  Planted  by  the 
side  of  veranda,  tree,  or  stakes,  and  trained  properly,  there 
is  nothing  prettier.  The  seeds  will  germinate  more  freely  if 
warm  water  be  poured  on  the  ground  after  planting.  Ten- 
der annual ;  fifteen  feet  high. 

Gourds. — A  tribe  of  climbers  with  curiously-shaped  fruit, 
in  various  colors.  Being  of  rapid  growth,  they  are  fine  to 
cover  old  fences,  trellises,  stumps,  etc.  The  foliage  is  quite 
ornamental,  and  the  markings  of  some  of  the  fruit  quite  ex- 
traordinary. Do  not  plant  the  seed  till  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over,  and  select  rich,  mellow  ground.  Tender  annual 
climbers ;  ten  to  twenty  feet  high. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  CLIMBERS.  315 

Ipomea. — Beautiful  climbers,  and  exceedingly  attractive 
mixed  with  other  climbers.  The  flowers  are  of  a  variety  of 
shapes  and  sizes,  and  of  an  endless  number  of  colors,  many 
being  wondrously  brilliant,  and  of  graceful  form.  They  are 
alike  good  for  green-house,  for  pots  and  baskets,  and  for 
trellises,  stumps,  arbors,  etc.  They  require  heat  in  starting, 
and  some  of  the  varieties  will  not  succeed  out  of  the  green- 
house.    Tender  annuals ;  five  to  ten  feet  high. 

Maurandya. — Graceful  climber  for  green-house,  parlor, 
baskets,  or  out-door  purposes.  Set  out  in  the  border  with  a 
little  frame  to  which  to  attach  their  tendrils,  they  will  be 
loaded  all  the  season  with  rich  purple,  white,  and  rose,  fox- 
glove-shaped blossoms.  The  seed  should  be  started  in  hot- 
bed or  green-house,  as  without  artificial  heat,  they  will 
scarcely  flower  the  first  season.  They  must  be  removed  to 
a  warm  place  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather  in  autumn. 
Tender  perennial  climber ;  six  feet  high. 

Smilax. — No  climbing  plant  in  cultivation  surpasses  this- 
for  the  graceful  beauty  of  its  foliage.  In  cut  flowers,  and  foi' 
wreaths,  etc.,  it  is  indispensable  to  florists.  Its  hard  texture 
enables  it  to  be  kept  several  days  after  being  cut,  without 
wilting.  Nothing  is  finer  for  clothing  statuettes,  vases,  etc. 
Soak  the  seed  in  warm  water  twelve  hours,  and  plant  in 
pots,  in  hot-bed  or  green-house,  in  February,  and  keep  in  a 
warm,  moist  place.  One  plant  in  a  two-inch  pot  is  enough. 
After  they  have  completed  their  growth  and  the  foliage 
begins  to  turn  yellow,  turn  the  pots  on  their  sides  and  with- 
hold water  till  August,  when  the  little  bulb  which  has  formed 
can  be  repotted  in  good,  rich  earth,  and  watered  freely,  and 
it  will  grow  all  winter.  Tender  perennial  climber;  ten 
feet  high. 


316         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Annuals  and  Perennials. 

Aster. — No  family  of  plants  bears  such  distinct  marks  of 
progress  as  the  aster,  and  none  are  more  eagerly  sought. 
An  almost  endless  variety,  always  reliable,  it  is  not  strange 
that  they  should  become  a  necessity.  The  kinds  found  in 
the  flower  garden  are  usually  French  or  German,  and  when 
circumstances  for  their  growth  are  favorable,  present  a  con- 
stant varying  succession  of  blossoms  till  frost  comes.  The 
taller  varieties  should  be  supported  by  stakes  or  trellises. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  spring,  and  the  young 
plants  transplanted  from  one  to  two  feet  apart,  according  to 
the  height  and  size. 

Begonia. — Ornamental  foliage,  green-house  and  stove 
plants,  with  many-colored,  succulent  leaves,  oblique  at  their 
base.  Very  useful  for  ferneries,  green-houses,  and  parlor 
decoration.  Some  of  the  varieties,  in  addition  to  their  beau- 
tiful foliage,  produce  magnificent  blossoms.  They  have 
been  so  much  improved,  and  so  many  new  flowering  sorts 
introduced,  that  we  almost  fail  to  recognize  the  species. 
Some  are  propagated  from  seed  only,  others  from  cuttings. 
All  require  a  rich  soil. 

Camellia. — All  species  of  camellias  are  universally  ad- 
mired on  account  of  their  beautiful,  rose-like  flowers  and 
elegant  dark -green,  shining,  laural-like  leaves.  They  are 
hardy  green-house  shrubs  of  easy  culture,  requiring  only  to 
be  protected  from  frost.  The  best  soil  for  them  is  an  equal 
quantity  of  good  sandy  loam  and  peat.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  inarching,  cuttings,  grafting,  and  from  seed,  the 
latter  being  the  only  method  of  obtaining  new  varieties. 
When  the  plants  are  not  growing,  they  should  receive  but 


ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS.  317 

little  water,  and  when  growing  freely,  can  scarcely  receive 
too  much.  A  regular  succession  of  flowers  may  be  obtained 
from  autumn  till  July,  if  attention  be  given  to  removing  the 
potted  and  growing  plants  from  a  warm  to  a  cooler  atmos- 
phere. When  the  growth  is  completed,  and  the  flower-buds 
formed,  a  cool,  sheltered  situation  is  best,  for  they  will  be 
seriously  injured  if  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

Calceolaria. — A  favorite  and  universally-admired  genus, 
remarkable  for  its  large,  beautifully  spotted  blossoms, 
which  are  very  showy,  and  from  which  an  almost  countless 
number  of  hybrids  have  been  raised.  They  are  perennial, 
are  grown  in  pots  in  the  conservatory,  green-house,  and 
garden ;  but  few  flowers  are  held  in  greater  esteem.  They 
prefer  a  turfy  loam,  a  mixture  of  peat  and  sand,  or  a  rich, 
open  garden  mold,  and  are  propagated  from  seed  or  cuttings. 
Some  of  them  are  herbaceous  perennials,  others  shrubby 
evergreens. 

Carnation. — No  flower  can  surpass  in  delicacy  of 
marking,  form,  or  delicious  fragrance,  the  richly-hued  car- 
nation. It  has  always  been  one  of  the  most  esteemed  of 
the  florist's  collection,  and  there  is  no  flower  more  desirable 
for  the  garden.  The  seed  will  not  produce  all  double 
flowers,  though  a  good  percentage  will  be  double,  and  of  all 
shades  and  colors,  many  being  very  fragrant.  Sow  under 
glass  in  green-house  or  hot-bed,  and  when  of  sufficient  size, 
transplant  two  feet  apart  each  way.  New  and  choice  vari- 
eties are  obtained  from  seed.  Half-hardy  perennial;  one 
and  a  half  feet  high. 

Candytuft. — Universally  known  and  cultivated,  and 
considered  indispensable  for  cutting.  All  the  varieties  look 
best  in  beds  or  masses.     Seed  sown  in  the  autumn  produces 


318  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

flowers  early  in  spring;  when  sown  in  April,  flower  from 
July  to  September,  and  some  of  the  sorts  till  frost  comes. 
All  the  varieties  are  hardy,  and  easy  to  cultivate.  Single 
plants  transplanted  look  well,  and  bloom  profusely.  Hardy 
annual ;  one  foot  high. 

Chrysanthemum. — The  following  are  the  old  garden 
varieties,  producing  flowers  white,  yellow,  and  variegated, 
single  and  double.  They  flower  in  autumn,  and  are  desir- 
able where  there  are  large  collections,  as  they  are  brilliant 
and  striking.  The  single  sorts  are  quite  as  handsome  as  the 
double.     Hardy  annual ;  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet  high. 

Chrysanthemum,  coronarium,  double  white. 

Chrysanthemum,  coronarium,  double  yellow. 

Chrysanthemum,  Burridganum,  crimson,  white  center; 
single. 

Chrysanthemum,  coronarium,  mixed. 

Dahlia. — This  exceedingly  beautiful  genus  comprises  an 
almost  endless  number  of  varieties,  all  more  or  less  showy 
in  the  flower  garden  in  autumn  when  most  other  flowers 
have  faded.  They  are  all  of  easy  cultivation,  growing 
freely  in  almost  any  soil,  from  seed  sown  in  spring.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  shallow  pans,  in  March,  and  the 
seedlings  transplanted  to  small  pots.  As  soon  as  danger  of 
frost  is  over,  plant  out,  one  foot  apart.  These  plants  will 
make  tubers,  which  should  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and 
kept  through  the  winter  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  away  from 
frost,  and  planted  out  in  the  spring,  when  they  will  blossom 
the  following  autumn.  New  varieties  are  constantly  being 
produced  from  seed,  some  of  them  of  exquisite  beauty. 

Fuchsia. — Well-known,  half-hardy,  perennial,  deciduous 
shrubs  worthy  a  place  in  every  garden.     The  varieties  are 


ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS.  3 1  9 

now  numbered  by  hundreds,  and  some  are  exceedingly 
beautiful.  They  are  easily  grown  from  seed,  and  as  cut- 
tings ;  and  from  seed  many  improved  varieties  are  obtained. 
Sow  in  March,  in  shallow  pots ;  prick  out  in  crocks  four  inches 
in  diameter,  when  of  convenient  size,  where  they  can  con- 
tinue to  grow  till  ihey  bloom.  As  soon  as  they  have 
flowered,  select  such  as  have  good  points,  and  change  into 
larger  pots.     When  frost  appears,  protect  the  plants. 

Heliotrope. — Highly  valued  for  the  fragrance  of  their 
flowers,  and  duration  of  bloom,  and  are  to  be  met  with  in 
most  gardens.  They  succeed  in  any  rich,  light  soil,  and 
cuttings  of  the  shrubby  kinds,  taken  off  while  young,  strike 
readily.     Half-hardy  perennial ;  one  foot  high. 

Mignonette.— A  well-known  hardy  annual,  producing 
dense,  semi-globular  heads  of  exceedingly  fragrant  flowers, 
borne  on  spikes  from  three  to  six  inches  long.  Is  in  bloom 
nearly  the  whole  season,  and  the  perfume  is  so  fragrant  that 
the  whole  atmosphere  around  is  perfumed.  No  garden 
should  be  without  it.  If  sown  at  intervals  during  the 
spring  and  early  summer,  it  will  be  in  bloom  till  killed  by 
the  frost.  Seeds  sown  in  autumn  will  bloom  early  in 
spring.     Hardy  annual ;  perennial  if  protected ;  one  foot. 

Oleander. — This  well-known  shrub,  originally  a  native 
of  India,  is  of  easy  culture,  and  flowers  freely  the  greater 
part  of  the  year.  In  warm,  moist  climates,  it  requires  no 
protection,  and  attains  the  proportions  of  a  good-sized  tree. 
The  flowers  have  a  salver-shaped  corolla,  with  a  crown  of 
torn  appendages  in  the  center,  and  are  of  a  beautiful  shade 
of  pinkish-red.  They  can  be  produced  successfully  in  the 
house  if  the  atmosphere  is  kept  moist  and  warm.  Sow 
seeds  in  gentle  heat  in  February  or  March,  in  light,  rich 


320         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

soil,  which  must  be  kept  moist.  When  young  plants  are 
three  or  four  inches  high,  repot  in  rich  soil.  The  tempera- 
ture in  which  plants  are  grown  should  not  fall  below  35°. 
The  young  shoots  made  one  season  should  bloom  the  next. 

Pansy. — These  lovely  flowers  are  favorites  with  all,  not 
only  for  the  brilliancy  and  variety  of  their  colors,  but  for 
the  durability  of  their  bloom.  Seed  may  be  sown  in  open 
ground  in  spring  or  summer,  or  in  hot-bed  early  in  spring. 
Young  plants  produce  the  largest  and  best  flowers.  The 
plants  should  always  occupy  a  cool,  partially  shaded  situa- 
tion, and  the  ground  cannot  be  too  rich;  coolness  and 
moisture  are  necessary.  Transplant  when  an  inch  high. 
Seed  sown  in  July  will  blossom  late  in  autumn ;  if  sown  in 
October,  will  bloom  the  following  spring.  Hardy  biennial; 
four  inches  high. 

Geranium. — Probably  the  geranium  is  better  known 
and  more  universally  admired  than  any  other  plant 
grown.  The  constant  succession  and  durability  of  bloom 
till  frost  comes,  the  brilliancy  of  the  scarlet  and  other 
colors,  and  the  exquisite  markings  of  the  leaves  of  some  of 
the  varieties,  render  them  very  desirable  for  pot  culture  and 
bedding.  No  garden  seems  complete  without  a  bed  of  them, 
and  in  every  collection  of  conservatory  or  parlor  plants  we 
are  sure  to  find  the  geranium.  Propagation  by  seed  is  the 
only  sure  way  to  obtain  superior  varieties.  Sow  in  March, 
in  gentle  heat,  in  well-drained  pots.  Water  moderately,  and 
as  soon  as  the  third  leaf  appears,  pot  singly  in  two-inch 
crocks,  exchanging  for  larger  ones  as  the  plants  require. 
As  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit,  plunge  the  pots  in  open 
border,  and  on  the  approach  of  frost  remove  them  to  a  shed. 
They  will  blossom  the  succeeding  spring.  Propagation  for 
common  varieties  can  be  made  from  cuttings. 


ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS.  :ii>j 

Ferns. — Flowerlass  plants,  too  well  known  to  need  de- 
scription. Many  of  the  varieties  are  exquisitely  beautiful. 
There  are  so  many  sorts,  varying  so  widely  in  habit,  that 
to  give  explicit  directions  for  the  culture  of  each  would  re- 
quire a  volume  of  itself.  As  a  general  rule  they  should  be 
kept  in  a  warm,  humid  atmosphere,  and  watered  abun- 
dantly. The  soil  best  adapted  to  their  growth  is  a  turfy, 
fibrous  peat,  mixed  with  sand  and  leaf  mold,  and  underlaid 
with  pieces  of  broken  crock.  In  places  too  shady  for  other 
plants  to  thrive,  they  grow  in  great  beauty.  Coming  as 
they  do  from  every  clime,  we  find  them  a  very  interesting- 
study.  They  are  alike  good  for  baskets,  vases,  rock-work, 
ornamental  plants  for  parlor  or  conservatory,  and  the 
pressed  leaves  of  some  of  the  varieties  are  marvels  of  grace- 
ful beauty.  Many  of  the  most  beautiful  sorts  are  propa- 
gated from  seed  only.  Their  exceeding  grace  and  beauty 
will  well  repay  all  care  bestowed  upon  them. 

Phlox  Drummondii. — Remarkable  for  the  brillianey 
and  abundance  of  their  large,  terminal  flowers,  completely 
hiding  the  foliage.  The  blossoms  are  of  many  colors,  from 
pure  white  to  deepest  purple,  eyed  and  striped.  For  masses, 
of  separate  colors  and  for  cutting  for  bouquets,  they  are  un- 
surpassed. The  seed  can  be  planted  in  open  ground  in  au- 
tumn or  spring,  or  plants  may  be  started  in  hot-bed  and 
transplanted.  Give  good,  rich  ground,  and  set  plants  six 
inches  apart  each  way.     Hardy  annual;  one  foot  high. 

Snapdragon. — The  snapdragon  is  an  old  favorite  border 
plant,  with  dark  and  glossy  leaves,  and  large,  curiously- 
shaped  flowers  with  finely  marked  throats.  They  have  been 
much  improved  by  careful  selection,  and  now  are  really 
magnificent   flowers.     They  will   blossom   the   first   season 

21 


322  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

from  seed  sown  in  spring,  but  the  blossom  will  be  much 
stronger  the  second  season.  Succeeds  best  in  dry,  loamy 
soil.     Tender  perennial ;  two  feet  high. 

Violet. — The  violet  should  not  be  wanting  in  any  garden, 
on  account  of  its  fragrance  and  early  appearance.  A  single 
flower  will  perfume  a  whole  room.  It  is  well  adapted 
for  border  or  rock-work,  and  commences  putting  forth  its 
beautiful  double  and  single  blossoms  in  April  and  continues 
through  May.  Succeeds  best  in  a  shady,  sheltered  place, 
and  can  be  easily  increased  by  dividing  the  root.  The 
violet  is  an  emblem  of  faithfulness.  Hardy  perennial;  four 
iftches  high. 

Zinnia. — A  very  showy  plant,  with  large,  double  flow- 
ers, which,  when  fully  expanded,  form  hemispherical  heads, 
become  densely  imbricated,  and  might  easily  be  mistaken 
for  dwarf  dahlias.  The  colors  run  through  all  the  shades  of 
carmine,  lilac,  scarlet,  purple,  crimson,  yellow,  to  pure  white. 
If  any  single  blossoms  appear,  they  should  be  at  once  pulled 
up.  Sow  the  seed  early  in  spring,  in  open  ground,  and 
transplant  to  one  and  a  half  feet  apart,  in  good,  rich  soil. 
Half-hardy  annual ;  one  and  a  half  feet  high. 

Chinese  Primrose. — These  are  perhaps  the  most  desir- 
able of  all  house-blooming  plants,  and  will  richly  compen- 
sate for  the  little  care  they  require.  They  are  in  almost 
constant  bloom  all  winter,  and  if  the  plants  be  transferred 
to  the  border,  they  will  bloom  nearly  all  summer.  Though 
perennial,  new  plants  flower  more  fi'eely,  and  seed  should 
be  sown  every  year.  Give  them  a  long  time  for  growth 
before  flowering,  and  do  not  force  the  young  plants,  but 
simply  protect  them  from  frost,  and  damp,  cutting  winds. 
Sow  the  seed  in  shallow  boxes,  filled  with  good,  rich  soil, 


ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS.  323 

dusting  a  little  fine  earth  over  them :  if  covered  too  deeply, 
or  if  the  seed  be  wet  and  allowed  to  dry  again,  they  will 
not  germinate.  Transplant  into  pots,  and  they  will  be 
ready  for  winter  blooming  in  the  drawing-room.  Tender 
perennial;  six  to  nine  inches  high. 

liases. — The  rose  requires  high  culture;  it  should  be 
planted  in  good,  well-drained  •  soil ;  the  ground  can  scarcely 
be  made  too  rich.  The  pruning  required  will  vary  with  the 
sorts  planted,  the  rank-growing  requiring  less  pruning  than 
the  weak  ones.  The  points  particularly  to  be  observed  are  to 
prune  before  the  buds  start  in  spring,  to  cut  out  all  unripe 
or  old  and  feeble  shoots,  and  to  cut  back  the  last  season's 
growth  to  from  one-half  to  two-thirds  its  length,  according 
to  the  vigor  of  the  sorts.  Winter  protection  of  tender  sorts 
is  accomplished  by  covering  after  a  few  severe  frosts,  with 
leaves,  straw,  evergreen  boughs,  or  earth,  or  by  removing 
the  plants  to  a  cool  cellar.  With  a  little  care  of  this  kind, 
the  choicest  tender  roses  may  be  safely  wintered,  and  as  they 
are  the  only  really  perpetual  roses,  they  are  abundantly 
worth  the  extra  care.  The  insects  most  commonly  injurious 
to  the  rose — as  the  Aphis,  which  appear  in  great  numbers 
upon  the  young,  growing  shoots,  and  the  Thrips,  which  prey 
upon  the  under  side  of  the  leaf,  giving  it  a  sickly,  yellowish 
look, — may  easily  be  destroyed  by  syringing  or  dipping  the 
plants  in  tobacco  water. 

Petunia. — Petunias  are  unsurpassed,  if  indeed  equaled, 
for  massing  in  beds.  Their  richness  of  color,  duration  of 
bloom,  and  easy  culture  will  always  render  them  popular. 
They  will  do  well  sown  in  open  border  in  spring,  or  earlier 
in  cold-frame  or  hot-bed,  and  transplanted  eighteen  inches 
apart.     By  the   latter  process,  they  will  come  into   bloom 


324 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


much  earlier,  though  they  do  perfectly  well  sown  in  open 
ground.  Be  careful  not  to  cover  the  small  seeds  too  deep ; 
they  like  a  sandy  loam.  Tender  perennial ;  one  and  a  half 
feet  high. 

Water-Lily. — Hardy,  aquatic  plant,  bearing  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  fragrant  white  blossoms,  which  appear  as 
if  floating  on  the  water.  They  are  very  much  admired, 
and  artf  constantly  becoming  more  and  more  popular.     Are 


Fig.  74- 


increased  by  sowing  the  seed,  or  by  dividing  the  roots  or 
tubers.  They  grow  readily  in  ponds  or  streams  of  shallow 
water  having  muddy  bottoms,  and  can  be  grown  in  aqua- 
riums, tubs  or  tanks,  in  the  house,  if  there  be  sufficient  mud 
at  the  bottom,  and  the  seeds  or  roots  be  kept  continually 
covered  with  water. 

Cultivation  in  Tubs. — For  a  tub,  take  a  strong  barrel, 
free  from  tar,  oil,  or  salt,  saw  it  in  two,  fill  this  one-third  full 
with  fine,  black  garden  soil,  or  meadow  mud  if  handy ;  plant 
the  seeds  in  this  mixture,  covering  them  one  inch  deep,  add 


ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS.  325 

water  gently  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  seed,  until  the  tub  is 
full.  This  is  all  the  care  needed;  always  keep  the  tub  full 
of  water.  Set  this  on  a  brick  or  board  platform  in  any 
place  you  desire.  The  tubs,  with  their  contents,  should  be 
placed  in  a  cellar  during  the  winter,  kept  from  frost,  and 
not  allowed  to  entirely  dry  up. 

For  Aquariums. — Put  in  five  inches  of  fine,  black  loam, 
cover  the  seed  one  inch  deep  in  this,  and  sift  on  enough  fine 
sand  to  entirely  cover  the  loam. 

Ice-Plant. — A  handsome  and  curious  plant  for  hanging 
baskets,  rock-work,  vases,  and  edgings.  The  leaves  and 
stems  are  succulent  and  fleshy,  and  appear  as  though  covered 
with  ice  crystals,  and  look  like  rock  candy.  The  whole 
plant  is  peculiarly  brilliant  in  the  sunshine.  The  flower  is 
white,  and  not  conspicuous.  Succeeds  best  in  dry,  sandy 
loam,  and  in  a  warm  situation.  Can  be  grown  in  pots  or 
open  border,  the  former  having  preference.  Tender  annual 
trailer;  six  inches  high. 

Balsam. — The  Balsam  or  Lady's  Slipper,  is  an  old 
favorite,  but  has  been  so  much  improved  by  cultivation  as 
to  be  scarcely  recognized.  The  blossoms  are  double,  though 
some  semi-double  and  single  ones  will  be  pretty  certain  to 
appear,  and  such  plants  should  be  removed.  The  prevail- 
ing colors  are  red  and  white,  the  former  running  into  all 
shades  of  crimson,  scarlet,  rose,  and  purple,  spotted  and 
striped.  The  flowers  will  be  improved  by  planting  in  a 
hot-bed,  and  transplanting  when  two  leaves  have  formed, 
one  or  two  feet  apart.  Pinch  off  a  portion  of  the  shoots, 
which  will  increase  the  size  of  the  flower  and  vigor  of  the 
plant.  Needs  a  rich  soil,  and  good  cultivation,  well 
repaying  for  both  with  the  abundance  of  its  magnificent 
flowers. 


326  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Ageratum. — A  valuable  plant  on  account  of  the  length 
of  time  it  remains  in  bloom,  and  for  contrasts  of  color  with 
the  more  brilliant  varieties.  It  blooms  constantly  all  sum- 
mer in  the  garden,  and  if  removed  to  the  green -house,  all 
winter.  Desirable  for  cut  flowers  for  bouquets.  Grows 
one  and  a  half  feet  high,  and  the  plants  should  stand  two 
feet  apart.  Colors  light  blue  and  pure  white.  Start  the 
seeds  under  glass,  and  transplant.     Hardy  annual. 

Abutilon. — Very  popular,  perennial,  green-house  shrub, 
with  bell-shaped,  drooping  flowers,  which  are  borne  in  pro- 
fusion nearly  the  entire  year.  Well  adapted  to  house  cul- 
ture, and  desirable  for  bedding  out  in  the  summer.  There 
are  several  varieties,  the  flowers  of  which  vary  from  pure 
white  and  yellow  to  deep  orange  and  crimson,  streaked  with 
yellow.  Can  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  in  sand,  under 
glass,  during  summer.  If  seeds  are  sown  before  April, 
under  glass,  the  plant  will  bloom  the  first  season. 


(flFiAF^rEm   ffft 


WINDOW  GARDENING. — HOW  TO  HAVE    FLOWERS  ALL  WINTER. 

— BEST    VARIETIES     FOR    WINTER     USE. HOW    TO    CARE 

FOR     THE      FLOWERS.  THEIR     ARRANGEMENT    IN     THE 

WINDOW. 


^x>XKc 


jjN  addition  to  what  has  been  said  in  the  chapters 
on  the  culture  of  flowers,  it  is  thought  proper  to 
add  a  few  hints  upon  the  subject  of  window 
gardening. 

There  are  but  few  plants  that  will  not  thrive 
in-doors  under  proper  conditions  of  light  and  tem- 
perature. A  window  which  admits  much  light 
by  day  should  be  selected,  and  as  plants  must 
have  their  periods  of  sleep,  provision  should  be 
made  for  shutting  off  the  bright  glare  of  the  lamp 
at  night.  A  few  plants,  well  cared  for,  look  better 
than  a  window  full  of  plants  so  closely  crowded  as  to  cause 
them  to  grow  spindling  and  turn  yellow. 

Regarding  soil,  the  reader  is  referred  to  other  chapters  in 
this  work ;  but  it  is  well  to  state  that  the  pots  for  window 
plants  should  be  filled  to  the  depth  of  one  or  more  inches 
with  charcoal,  to  assist  in  drainage  and  to  keep  the  soil  sweet. 

[327] 


328  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Care  should  be  used  in  watering,  as  plants  are  easily 
"  drowned  out. "  If  during  a  gentle,  warm  shower  the  plants 
can  be  so  placed  as  to  receive  it,  they  will  be  all  the  better 
for  it.  They  should  generally  be  watered  once  a  day  with 
a  watering-pot, — never  poured  on, — the  water  being  about 


F,'g-  75- 

the  temperature  of  the  room.  The  morning  is,  perhaps,  the 
best  time  for  watering,  and  it  never  should  be  done  while 
the  sun  shines  upon  the  plants. 

Plants  that  have  flowered  all  the  summer  cannot  be  ex- 
pected to  continue  the  process  during  the  winter,  as  they 
must  have  a  period  of  rest  before  they  can  mature.     Those 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


329 


which  are  wanted  for  flowering  in  winter,  must  be  started 
late  in  the  summer  from  seeds  or  cuttings,  or  if  started  earlier 
they  must  be  set  away  or  laid  down  till  autumn.  The 
bulbous  plants  for  winter  use  should  be  laid  down  in  the 
shade  in  May,  and  given  no  water  till  September,  when 
they  may  be  repotted,  and  will  become  active  in  a  few 
weeks.  Cuttings  for  winter  may  be  potted  in  midsummer. 
Monthly  roses,  geraniums,  fuchsias,  heliotropes,  callas,  be- 


Fig.  76. 


gonias;  and  for  climbers,  the  cypress- vine,  nasturtium,  and 
ivy,  are  the  plants  that  require  the  least  trouble  and  succeed 
best. 

For  supporting  the  pots,  a  window  box  is  the  cheapest; 
it  can  be  lined  with  zinc,  and  filled  in  around  the  pots  with 
moss,  if  desirable.     A  strong  wire  stand,  set  on  castors,  is 


330 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


very  handy,  as  it  can  be  moved  around,  and  is  moreover 
ornamental. 

The  illustrations  given  in  this  department  are  intended 
to  suggest  the  methods  that  may  be  employed  in  window 
gardening,  and  it  is  not  deemed  necessary  to  enter  into  a 
lengthy  description  of  them.  On  page  329  is  illustrated  a 
bay-window.     Below  is  given  a  good  plan  where  the  bay- 


Fig-  77- 


window  is  wanting,  and  drops  a  hint  as  to  how  an  ivy  may 
be  concealed  behind  a  mirror,  with  its  graceful  loops  hang- 
ing down  on  each  side,  and  a  small  portion  j  ust  peeping  into 
the  glass. 

The  cut  on  page  331  shows  how  the  scroll-saw  may  be 
employed  in  window  gardening.  The  lambrequin  at  the 
top  is  made  of  wood,  decorated  with  the  scroll-saw. 


WIN  DO  I V  a  A  H  D  EN  I  N<  1. 


331 


Fig.  78. 


332         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

We  have  seen  shrubs  employed  with  excellent  results,  in 
making  a  background  for  the  more  showy  plants;  and  in 
one  instance  a  species  of  maple,  eight  feet  high,  in  full  leaf 
in  midwinter,  was  perhaps  the  most  admired  of  the  whole 
collection. 

Of  course  the  arrangement  of  plants  in  a  window  or 
cabinet  must  depend  in  a  great  measure  upon  the  taste  of 
the  possessor;  but  excellent  effects  can  be  produced  almost 
anywhere  with  small-leafed  ivy,  madeira-vine,  smilax,  and 
other  hardy  climbers,  set  off  by  a  few  showy  geraniums, 
and  similar  flowers. 

One  of  the  principal  reasons  why  flowers  bought  on  the 
streets  or  at  the  markets  prove  so  unsatisfactory,  is  because 
they  are  placed  in  small  pots  to  save  room,  in  the  damp  pits 
where  they  are  grown,  and  when  they  come  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  sitting-room,  or  balcony,  the  earth  soon 
bakas,  and  the  flower-buds  fall  off  without  opening. 

If  the  common  flower-pots  in  which  the  plants  are  grow- 
ing be  placed  inside  ornamental  pots  a  few  sizes  larger,  and 
the  intermediate  space  be  stuffed  with  wet  moss,  the  closing 
up  and  fading  can  generally  be  prevented.  A  still  better 
plan  is  to  arrange  a  window  box  to  receive  the  pots ;  this  should 
be  from  seven  to  ten  inches  deep,  filled  with  earth  or  moss, 
and  lined  with  zinc. 


G,m\F>/rRR  TV. 


PRESERVING  NATURAL  FLOWERS. — AN  ART  WORTH  KNOW- 
ING.  HOW  TO  KEEP  NATURAL  FLOWERS  FOR  A  LONG 

TIME. — PRESERVING  BY  THE  SAND  PROCESS. — THE  SUL- 
PHUR PROCESS. — PRESERVING  BRIDAL  AND  FUNERAL 
FLOWERS. — AN  ELEGANT  ART. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  FLOW- 
ERS. 


»o}*i<x> 

HE  art  of  preserving  flowers  in  their  natural 
state  has  long  been  known,  but  the  process 
Beems  to  have  been  forgotten  until  the  increas- 
ing demand  for  bouquets  brought  it  to  the  minds 
of  the  people  of  Germany.  There  are  two  ways 
of  preserving  flowers.  The  one  used  almost  ex- 
clusively in  Germany,  and,  we  think,  the  easier 
method,  is  as  follows: — 

The  Sand  Process. 


Procure  a  very  fine  quality  of  sand,  wash  it 
until  all  the  particles  of  clay  are  dissolved,  and  dry  it  well 
by  placing  it  on  a  board  set  slanting  to  allow  the  water  to 
run  off.  Bake  it  thoroughly;  and  while  it  is  warm,  take 
an  ounce  of  mutton  tallow  to  twelve  pounds  of  sand ;  scrape 
the  tallow  and  scatter  it  over  the  sand,  stirring  it  in  as  it 
melts.     Do  not  neglect  this;   for   the   tallow  prevents   the 

[333] 


334  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

sand  from  sticking  to  the  flowers.  Take  a  cigar-box  or 
some  other  suitable  box,  and  cut  several  holes  through  the  bot- 
tom, over  which  paste  paper  to  keep  the  sand  from  escaping. 
Sift  sand  into  the  bottom  of  the  box  until  it  is  about  half  an 
inch  deep,  using  a  fine  sieve.  Upon  this  carefully  place  a 
layer  of  flowers,  and  sift  in  sand  enough  to  cover  them. 
Jar  the  box  a  little  with  the  hand  to  settle  the  sand  into  and 
around  the  flowers.  Put  in  more  flowers,  and  cover  them 
with  sand  as  before,  continuing  the  operation  until  the  box 
is  full.  Place  the  cover  in  tight,  and  put  the  box  in  a  place 
where  it  will  be  kept  at  a  steady  temperature  of  about  80°. 
In  about  four  days,  if  kept  at  the  proper  temperature,  the 
flowers  will  be  dry,  and  can  be  removed  by  puncturing  the 
paper  placed  over  the  holes  cut  through  the  bottom  of  the 
box,  and  allowing  the  sand  to  run  out.  At  first  the  flowers 
will  be  too  brittle  to  be  handled,  and  the  box  should  be  left 
in  a  damp  place  for  a  few  hours,  when  the  flowers  will  be 
ready  for  use. 

The  Sulphur  Process. 

The  other  process  alluded  to  is  the  preservation  of  flowers 
by  the  agency  of  sulphur  fumes.  Procure  a  box  that  can 
be  made  air-tight  (one  in  which  tea  has  been  packed  will 
do);  then  inside  the  box  on  opposite  sides,  near  the  top, 
fasten  small  strips  of  wood,  and  place  rods  across  upon  which 
to  hang  the  bunches  of  flowers.  For  ventilation,  bore  a  hole 
in  one  side  near  the  bottom,  into  which  fit  a  plug  closely ; 
arrange  the  flowers  in  loose  clusters  of  from  three  to  ten, 
according  to  size,  placing  a  variety  of  flowers  in  each  cluster. 
Hang  the  bunches  on  the  rods  so  that  they  will  not  touch 
one  another,  and  in  the  bottom  of  the  box  place  a  metal  pan 


PRESERVING  FLOWERS.  :;;;:, 

containing  a  small  shovelful  of  live  coals.  Spread  out  the 
coals,  and  sprinkle  over  them  about  three  ounces  of  pulver- 
ized sulphur ;  then  place  the  lid  on  securely,  and  the  process 
is  commenced.  Open  the  hole  in  the  side  for  a  few  minutes, 
until  you  see  the  fumes  rising,  but  no  flame ;  then  close  the 
opening,  throw  a  piece  of  heavy  carpet  over  the  box,  and 
leave  it  for  a  day.  Upon  examination,  the  flowers  will  be 
found  perfect  in  form,  but  bleached  almost  white.  Expose 
them  to  the  air  in  a  dry  place,  and  they  will  soon  regain 
their  color,  but  will  bo  of  a  lighter  shade  than  before 
bleaching. 

The  box  must  be  kept  absolutely  air-tight  after  the 
fumes  begin  to  rise,  and  it  is  better  to  paste  cloth  over  the 
edges  and  corners  to  make  it  certain  that  no  air  can  pass 
through.     Keep  the  box  in  a  dry  room. 

Preserving  Bridal  and  Funeral  Flowers. 

Every  bride  desires  to  keep  the  flowers  she  wore  on  her 
wedding  day,  and  all  desire  to  keep  the  wreath  that  lay  on 
the  breast  of  some  dear  departed  one.  The  art  of  preserving 
these  mementos  has  been  kept  secret,  only  a  few  professional 
florists  knowing  the  process.  It  is  simple  enough,  and  we 
give  it. 

The  Paraffine  Process. 

Let  the  flowers  be  fresh  and  firm,  and  the  color  light. 
Green  leaves  cannot  be  treated;  hence  must  be  left  off. 
Take  the  finest  quality  of  paraffine,  and  melt  it  by  placing 
it  in  a  cup  set  in  boiling  water.  Keep  the  paraffine  in  a 
liquid  state  by  means  of  the  warm  water,  and  dip  the 
flowers  into  it,  being  careful  that  the  paraffine  is  not  hot 
enough  to  cook  them.     Do  the  work  as  quickly  as  possible, 


336         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

so  as  to  make  a  very  thin  coating  on  the  flowers.  To  pre- 
serve green  leaves,  coat  them  with  green  wax,  or  add  green 
powder  paint  to  the  paraffine. 

In  preserving  flowers,  it  should  be  observed  that  those 
with  a  thick,  full  corolla,  such  as  tulips,  lilies,  etc.,  are  not 
well  adapted  to  this  purpose.  When  the  preserving  process 
is  eompleted,  the  flowers  should  be  tastefully  arranged,  and 
placed  where  they  will  be  free  from  dust.  Glass  globes  or 
bell  glasses  are  excellent,  and  if  a  few  bleached  ferns  form 
the  background,  the  effect  will  be  pretty. 

In  arranging  flowers  of  any  kind,  be  careful  not  to 
place  together  those  of  tints  which  do  not  blend;  as  scarlets 
with  pinks,  blues  with  purples,  etc.  An  intelligent  under- 
standing of  the  harmony  of  colors  will  enable  any  one  to 
arrange  a  very  few  and  very  common  flowers  so  as  to  pro- 
duce excellent  effects. 

Crystalizing  Grass. 

Take  one  pound  of  alum  and  dissolve  it  in  one  quart  of 
rain-water.  Tie  up  bunches  of  feathery  grasses,  wild  rye, 
oats,  bearded  wheat,  etc.,  loosely,  and  suspend  them  over  a 
tub.  Heat  the  alum-water,  and  pour  it  over  them  very 
slowly  until  every  cluster  is  thoroughly  saturated.  Leave 
the  bunches  to  dry  over  night,  when  every  point  will  sparkle 
with  crystals.  Should  the  process  fail,  add  more  alum,  and 
the  next  application  will  succeed.  These  grasses  make  very 
ornamental  winter  boquets. 


-© <&> «■ 


[337] 


A  bunch  of  sumach,  shining  bright, 

And  a  stag-horn,  deck  the  wall, 
With  a  string  of  birds'-eggs,  blue  and  white, 

Beneath. 

— Alice  Cart,  in  The  Settler's  Christmas  Eve.' 


CLxFU^F^TRR    ^ 


BRUSH  AND  PIGMENT. — PAINTING  IN  OIL  AND  WATER  COLORS. 
— FULL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  BOTH.— .-PANEL  PAINTING. — 
PAINTING  PLAQUES  AND  VASES. — AN  ELEGANT  ART. — 
BEAUTIFYING  THE  HOME. — A  NEW  WARE  FOR  PAINTING. 
— OIL  COLORS  ON  SILK,  SATIN,  AND  PLUSH. — WATER  COL- 
ORS.— BOWL  PAINTING. 

<~o*Ko* 


F  late  years  there  has  been  a  very  great  advance 
in  the  use  of  oil  and  water  colors  in  interior  dec- 
orations. Many  ladies  have  turned  their  atten- 
tion to  painting  panels,  screens,  and  plaques  for 
adorning  their  own  houses,  and  some  have  ac- 
complished most  satisfactory  results  in  painting 
on  china.  The  following  pages  give  the  neces- 
sary instructions  for  the  amateur  who  wishes  to 
try  her  skill  in  this  elegant  art. 

The  materials  necessary  are  very  few,  render- 
ing the  work  less  difficult  than  it  seems,  and  at 
the  same  time  less  costly.  A  few  camel's-hair  brushes, — 
some  fine,  others  coarse, — a  tile,  a  plate,  or  a  piece  of  window 
glass  to  mix  the  paints  on,  a  small  vessel  to  hold  turpentine, 
and  a  few  tubes  of  oil-colors,  to  be  had  at  any  paint  store, 
are  the  requisite  materials.  Some  knowledge  of  drawing  is 
necessary,  so  that  the  design  to  be  painted  may  be  outlined 

on  the  material  with  a  pencil.     Unless  the  person  is  skillful 

[339] 


340         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

in  this,  the  outline  should  be  drawn  once  or  twice  on  paper 
before  it  is  traced  upon  the  material. 

No  amateur  should  be  ambitious  to  undertake  difficult 
and  elaborate  designs  at  the  outset.  Let  the  advancement 
be  easy.  Take,  for  the  first  effort,  a  simple  subject  requir- 
ing only  two  or  three  tints.  Flowers  are  best  for  beginners. 
Patience  and  continued  practice  will  teach  the  pupil  how  to 
meet  the  difficulties  in  the  use  of  brushes,  colors,  etc. 

In  handling  the  brush,  avoid  "dabbling,"  and  accom- 
plish as  much  as  possible  at  a  single  stroke.  It  is  hardly 
necessary  to  say  that  the  tints  are  better  if  a  brush  is  pro- 
vided for  each  color,  but  by  careful  cleaning  the  same  brush 
may  be  used  for  several  colors.  In  oil-colors,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  squeeze  the  paint  from  the  tube  on  blotting  paper, 
so  that  the  surplus  oil  may  be  absorbed;  otherwise  there  is 
a  risk  of  staining.  If  the  paint  then  becomes  too  dry,  tur- 
pentine should  be  used  to  thin  it,  at  the  same  time  causing 
it  to  dry  more  quickly. 

Panel  Painting. 

Panels  of  doors,  or  simply  oblong  wall-panels  of  well 
seasoned  wood,  are  now  painted  in  oil-colors.  The  oblong 
panels  look  well  hung  upon  the  wall,  or  set  upon  an  easel, 
a  shelf,  a  cabinet,  or  the  mantel. 

The  materials  are  the  ordinary  tube  oil-colors,"  camel's 
hair  or  sable  brushes  of  several  sizes,  a  bristle  brush  for 
backgrounds,  and  a  hand  rest.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  panels  are  not  pictures  in  the  true  sense,  but  a  part  of 
a  picture,  of  which  the  room  itself  is  the  whole. 

The  background,  if  the  wood  is  not  left  its  natural  color, 
should  be  soft  mottled  blue,  green,  or  gray,  toned  a  little 
with  warmer  colors,  a  fleck  of  white  here  and  there  being 
very  admissible. 


PANEL  PAINTING.  341 

For  Subjects,  flowers  painted  in  natural  colors  are  most 
popular.  Peach  and  apple  blossoms,  on  drooping  boughs, 
sprays  of  dogwood,  or  anything  which  suits  the  fancy, 
may  be  chosen.  One  author,  who  seems  to  appreciate  the 
plant,  recommends  the  hop-vine,  and  it  really  seems  capable 
of  excellent  treatment,  especially  on  door  panels.  Other  sub- 
jects may  be  taken;  as  a  sketch  of  a  sailing  vessel,  supported 
by  the  branches  of  a  piece  of  coral,  the  latter  being  painted 
a  light  pink;  swallows  skimming  over  a  small  lake;  or  a 
mischievous  robin  perched  on  a  bough  of  ripe  cherries.  The 
beginner  should  attempt  only  the  simplest  subjects. 

Painting  Plaques. 

The  decoration  of  plaques  and  vases  is  a  very  elegant 
and  popular  employment  for  ladies,  and  is  rapidly  growing 
in  favor.  Two  methods  are  used,  one  in  which  the  plaques 
are  painted  and  the  painting  is  burned  in,  the  other  simply 
requires  the  painting  without  the  burning.  The  same  sug- 
gestions also  apply  to  vases. 

Plaques  for  ordinary  oil-colors  are  made  of  wood,  paper 
mache,  china,  and  porcelain,  costing  from  fifteen  cents  for 
wood,  to  two  or  three  dollars  and  even  higher  for  porcelain, 
paper  mache  being  the  favorite.  The  paints  and  brushes 
are  the  same  as  are  used  for  panel  painting,  except  where 
the  work  is  done  on  china,  for  "firing,"  when  Lacroix's  En- 
amel, or  other  mineral  colors,  must  be  used. 

The  sizes  most  used  are  from  twelve  to  sixteen  inches  in 
diameter.  For  a  background  the  whole  plaque  may  be 
painted  in  graduated  tinte  of  sage  green,  blue,  or  brown;  or 
it  may  be  left  the  natural  color,  just  as  the  design  requires. 

The  Designs. — In  tho  selection  of  designs,  the  field  is  very 
wide,  and  ranges  from  a  single  spray  of  apple  blossoms  to 


342         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

animals,  portraits,  and  landscapes.  The  picture  should  cover 
the  plaque,  not  solidly,  but  the  whole  surface  should  be  util- 
ized and  the  design  well  balanced.  Sometimes  a  center-piece 
is  painted,  with  a  tasty  border.  Very  many  persons  will  be 
at  a  loss  to  make  their  own  designs,  and  to  such,  the  sug- 
gestions and  designs  furnished  by  the  Art  Amateur,  a 
monthly  Art  Journal  published  in  New  York,  will  be  of 
great  use.  Others  need  but  a  slight  hint  from  which  to  form 
a  very  good  sketch,  making  the  details  to  suit  their  fancy. 

A  very  attractive  picture  would  be  a  few  stalks  of  ripe 
wheat,  with  a  mouse  perched  upon  one  of  the  stalks ;  a  faint 
attempt  at  a  landscape,  with  grass  and  mushrooms  in  the 
background,  and  a  pale  moon  in  the  distance.  Paint  the 
mouse  gray ;  wheat,  yellow ;  grass,  green ;  mushrooms,  gray 
on  top  and  stems,  under  surface  striped  with  black ;  and  sky, 
blue. 

Another  good  design  is  a  vase  of  gold  fish,  with  a  young^ 
chicken  near,  and  a  few  stems  of  grass  rising  from  behind 
the  vase.  Paint  the  globe  a  light  gray,  and  shade  with  a 
dark  gray ;  fish,  capucine  red  shaded  with  the  same ;  chicken, 
yellow  with  shading  of  darker  color  of  same;  plants,  green. 
Sprays  of  flowers  with  birds  are  not  only  very  easily  painted, 
but  very  popular. 

Imitation  Barbatin  or  Lamoges  Ware. 

A  new  material  for  oil-colors  has  recently  made  its  ap- 
pearance. It  is  clay  modeled  into  the  forms  of  vases  and 
jars,  upon  the  surface  of  which  flowers  are  molded  in  full  re- 
lief. This  ware  is  intended,  when  painted  and  varnished* 
to  represent  the  celebrated  "Barbatin"  or  "Lamoges"  ware. 
The  ordinary  tube  colors  are  used,  and  the  taste  of  the 
decorator  will  be  taxed  to  its  utmost  in  the  selection  and 
blending  of  colors.     The  vases  should  be  given  some  warm 


IMITATION  BARBATIN  WARE.  343 

color  in  lights  and  shades,  or  what  would  be  called  mottled, 
and  the  flowers  should  be  painted  natural  colors.  For  the  vase, 
a  shaded  deep  green,  blue,  or  brown,  would  be  appropriate. 
The  varnish,  of  course,  should  be  white  or  nearly  so,  as 
otherwise  the  brilliancy  of  the  colors  would  be  marred.  To 
those  who  have  not  means  to  own  the  burned  wares,  this 
commends  itself,  and  it  is  destined  to  be  very  popular,  imi- 
tating, as  it  does,  the  famous  and  costly  French  wares.  The 
vases  are  sold  at  first-class  art  and  picture  stores. 

Silk,  Satin,  and  Plush. 

These  three  materials  are  sometimes  painted  on  for  ban- 
ners, panels,  and  screens.  The  materials  for  use  are  the 
same  as  have  been  spoken  of,  with  the  addition  of  ox  gall 
spread  over  the  designs,  on  silk  or  satin,  before  the  painting 
is  begun. 

The  highest  general  color  is  applied  first,  in  painting 
these  fabrics,  and  the  strokes  of  the  brush  should  be  parallel 
to  the  rib  of  the  silk,  that  is,  not  across  the  woof.  Put  in  the 
deepest  shades  last. 

There  is  one  difficulty  in  this  work,  and  that  is  the 
spreading  of  the  oil  in  the  paint.  To  prevent  this,  squeeze 
out  the  tube  colors  upon  blotting  paper,  and  let  it  absorb  the 
oil.  If  the  oil  should  then  spread,  rub  the  wrong  side  of  the 
goods  with  coke  magnesia,  to  absorb  it ;  and  when  absorbed, 
brush  off  the  powder.  The  material  should  be  stretched  upon 
a  drawing-board  by  means  of  tacks,  and  the  outline  drawn 
upon  the  goods  with  a  lead  pencil,  or  with  blue  or  red  stamp- 
ing paper.  While  engaged  upon  the  design,  protect  the  fab- 
ric from  soiling  as  much  as  possible,  with  a  sheet  of  paper. 
Plush  is  the  richest  of  all  materials  for  oil-colors.  A  stiff 
brush  of  bristle  is  necessary  to  stamp  in  the  colors.  Mirrors 
with  plush  frames  painted  with  sprays  of  flowers  instead  of 
embroidery  are  much  admired.  Designs  on  plush  are  out- 
lined with  a  brush  and  flake  white. 


344  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Water  Colors. — Buy  only  the  very  best,  from  responsi- 
ble dealers.  Sometimes  two  or  three  coatings  of  color  must 
be  applied  to  satin  and  silk  before  the  color  takes  on  the 
proper  tint.  Chinese  white  is 'almost  universally  used  in 
toning  colors  and  putting  in  the  lighter  tints.  Mix  the  white 
with  the  color  to  be  toned,  or  apply  it  to  the  fabric,  accord- 
ing to  the  object  you  wish  to  accomplish. 

Transfer  oil  pictures  are  now  sold  which  can  be  applied 
to  silk  and  satin  by  use  of  a  hot  iron. 

Fan  Painting  is  another  field  for  the  artist.  Silk,  satin, 
paper,  and  vellum  are  the  materials.  The  fans  must  be  se- 
cured upon  a  board  while  being  painted.  The  walls  of 
rooms  are  frequently  adorned  with  gaily  colored  Japanese 
fans,  of  various  sizes. 

Bowl  Painting. — Wooden  bowls,  such  as  are  used  for 
making  bread,  are  perhaps  the  latest  for  painting  in  oil.  The 
entire  bowl  is  first  painted  some  color, — blue  or  gray  looks  well, 
— and  then  on  the  inside  is  painted  a  design  covering  the 
bot.tom  and  extending  up  the  sides.  The  subjects  which  seem 
most  sought  after  are  marine  views,  with  scenes  of  sun-rises. 

"  At  morning,  flinging  wide, 
Its  curtain-clouds  of  purple  and  vermilion, 
Dispensing  life  and  light  on  every  side." 

The  bowls,  when  completed,  are  hung  rather  high,  with 
a.  downward  incline,  in  the  corners  of  the  room,  and  look 
well  nowhere  else.  In  the  painting,  minute  details  are  to  be 
avoided,  as  the  view  will  be  seen  at  a  distance  only.  These 
ornaments  take  the  place  of  corner  brackets. 

Decorating  Flower  Pots. — Plain,  smooth,  red-clay  flower 
pots  are  capable  of  some  decoration  worth  mentioning  ;  and 
as  they  occupy  such  prominent  places  in  the  house,  it  is  not 
strange  that  they  should  receive  some  attention  from  'the 
decorator.  Oil  or  water  colors  will  serve  the  purpose.  Lay 
broad  bands  of  dull  blue  around  the  top  and  bottom,  cover- 
ing the  intervening  space  with  black.  Now  if  you  do  not 
have  transfer  pictures,  paste  scrap  chromos  on  the  black  band- 
Do  not  observe  too  much  order  in  pasting  them  on,  but  ar- 
range them  in  a  most  disorderly  manner.  The  effect  is  ex- 
cellent, and  the  experiment  worth  trying. 


Ghaptrr  11. 


CRYSTAL  AMBROTYPES,  OR  PHOTO-ENAMEL. — HOW  TO  PAINT 
PHOTOGRAPHS. — EXPLICIT  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  PAINT- 
ING.— MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  USE. — DECALCOMANIA, 
OR  THE  ART  OF  TRANSFERRING  PICTURES. —  TRANS- 
FERRING PICTURES  TO  WOOD,  STONE,  GLASS,  SILK, 
SATIN,  ETC. —  EASY  AND  INEXPENSIVE  WAYS  OF  DEC- 
ORATING. 

°oi*io« 

OUBTLESS  many  have  admired  the  hand- 
somely colored  photographs  exhibited  through- 
out the  country  by  agents  who  claim  to  know 
the  secret  of  the  art,  and  the  method  of  teaching 
it.  The  fact  is,  it  is  no  secret,  the  process  being 
an  old  one,  and  very  simple. 

Materials  Necessary  for  the  Work. 

The  best  of  tube  paints  in  flake  white,  orange- 
yellow,  Indian  red,  vermillion,  chrome-green, 
rose-madder,  terre-verte,  ivory  black,  Prussian 
blue,  and  vandyke  brown,  a  convex  glass  in  size  to  suit, 
an  ounce  of  castor-oil  and  balsam  of  fir  in  equal  parts,  an 
ounce  vial  of  castor-oil,  adhesive  paper,  good  mucilage,  and 
camel's  hair  brushes  in  three  sizes.  None  of  these  are  diffi- 
cult to  procure,  except  the  Convex  glass.  That  can  be  ob- 
tained from  any  first-class  picture  dealer.  [345] 


346         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

The  Process. 

Let  your  photograph  lie  in  rain-water  for  ten  or  twelve 
hours;  it  can  then  be  taken  from  the  card  with  ease.  Use 
a  blotter  to  dry  it.  Clean  the  glass  thoroughly.  Cover 
the  face  of  the  photograph  with  mucilage,  using  a  soft  linen 
cloth,  and  at  once  place  the  face  side  next  to  the  under  side 
of  the  convex  glass.  Place  soft  paper  over  it,  and  work 
out  all  air  and  moisture,  beginning  at  the  center.  When 
perfectly  smooth,  lay  the  picture  aside  for  an  hour,  after 
which  wet  the  entire  surface  with  the  mixture  of  castor-oil 
and  balsam  of  fir,  and  place  in  the  sun.  In  about  eight 
hours  the  picture  will  become  perfectly  transparent.  After 
it  has  become  perfectly  transparent,  wipe  off  the  picture 
with  castor-oil  and  a  linen  cloth  to  free  it  from  the  sticki- 
ness caused  by  the  balsam  of  fir.  The  picture  is  now  ready 
for  the  paint. 

How  to  Paint  the  Picture. 

Take  a  fine  brush  and  the  least  possible  amount  of  flake 
white,  and  touch  the  white  spots  in  the  eyes.  Next  outline 
the  face,  ear,  nose,  and  mouth  with  a  slight  line  of  white. 
If  the  eyes  you  wish  to  paint  are  blue,  use  Vandyke  brown 
for  the  pupils,  and  Prussian  blue  mixed  with  a  little  white 
for  the  rest  of  the  eye,  using  white  for  the  corners.  If  the 
eye  is  brown,  paint  the  pupil  black,  and  the  rest  of  the  eye 
brown.  The  corners  are  painted  with  white  and  yellow 
mixed  for  dark  eyes.  For  a  blonde,  paint  the  lips  with 
white  and  rose-madder ;  for  a  brunette,  use  white  and  Ver- 
million. For  the  center  of  the  ear,  use  a  fine  paint  of  Ver- 
million ;  for  the  rest  of  the  ear,  white,  with  a  slight  touch  of 
rose-madder.     Paint  the  cheeks  and  chin  of  a  blonde  with  a 


TBANSFEBBING  PICTUBES.  347 

mixture  of  rose-madder,  white,  and  a  little  touch  of  yellow. 
For  a  brunette  use  vermillion  instead  of  rose-madder.  This 
mixture  gives  the  flesh  tint.  Use  the  flesh  tint  beneath  the 
brows  and  around  the  eyes.  Add  a  little  white  to  this,  and 
paint  around  the  edges  of  the  hair,  increasing  the  amount  of 
white  ras  you  near  the  eyebrows.  Use  flesh  tint  for  the 
neck.  For  blondes,  use  a  background  made  of  Prussian 
blue,  rose-madder,  and  white;  and  for  brunettes  use  white, 
rose-madder,  and  terre-verte,  well  mixed.  For  jewelry,  use 
orange  yellow  mixed  with  a  little  white.  For  hair  slightly 
gray,  use  ivory  black  and  pure  white  mixed.  For  auburn 
hair,  mix  white,  yellow  ochre,  and  vandyke  brown. 

These  pictures  will  remain  in  good  condition  for  some 
time,  but  after  a  few  years  will  become  opaque.  Good  ma- 
terials are  absolutely  necessary.  This  work  requires  much 
patient  effort.  When  the  painting  is  all  done,  place  the 
picture  in  an  oval  frame,  such  as  are  found  at  the  picture 
stores.  • 

Decalcomania,  or  the  Art  of  Transferring  Pictures. 

There  is  no  more  ready  process  for  decorating  panels, 
vases,  flower  stands,  the  beds  of  vehicles,  and,  in  fact,  any- 
thing upon  which  a  picture  can  be  placed  with  slight  cost, 
than  the  art  of  decalcomania. 

The  Materials. 

The  pictures  for  transferring  are  for  sale  in  picture, 
paint,  and  varnish  stores  at  very  trifling  cost.  The  other 
materials  are,  a  small  quantity  of  balsam  of  fir,  or  some 
good  white  varnish  which  will  dry  quickly,  a  small  sponge, 
and  a  brush  for  applying  the  varnish. 


348         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

How  to  Transfer  the  Picture. 

A  little  practice  is  required  to  make  a  neat  transfer. 
Clean  the  object  to  which  the  picture  is  to  be  applied,  and 
take  great  care  to  leave  it  dry  and  perfectly  free  from  any 
oily  substance.  Apply  a  thin,  even  coating  of  either  var- 
nish or  balsam  of  fir  to  the  face  of  the  picture,  and  press  the 
picture  to  the  surface  to  which  it  is  to  be  transferred.  Be 
careful  that  the  picture  is  never  moved  after  it  is  once  ap- 
plied. Smooth  it  down  very  evenly,  working  out  every 
blister  and  air-hole.  The  next  step  is  to  remove  the  paper, 
which  will  then  reveal  the  picture  firmly  stuck  to  the  sur- 
face intended.  The  process  of  removing  the  paper  is 
very  simple,  but  skill  is  required.  With  the  sponge, 
moisten  the  paper,  gradually  but  thoroughly.  This  should 
be  done  before  the  varnish  is  quite  dry.  When  the  paper 
has  been  sufficiently  moistened,  it  should  be  neatly  peeled 
off,  beginning  at  a  corner,  when,  if  the  foregoing  instruc- 
tions have  been  faithfully  observed,  the  picture  will  be  re- 
vealed firmly  sticking  where  desired.  Sometimes  a  portion 
©f  the  picture  will  come  off  with  the  paper;  this  results  from 
one  of  three  causes, — either  the  varnish  was  not  evenly 
spread,  or  it  had  not  dried  enough  to  hold  the  picture,  or 
the  paper  had  not  been  sufficiently  moistened.  The  remedy 
is  apparent. 

Among  the  late  uses  to  which  this  method  has  been  put 
is  the  transferring  of  pictures  to  silk  and  satin,  in  place  of 
painting,  and  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  state  that  when  they 
are  transferred,  the  pictures  very  much  resemble  oil  paint- 
ings. There  is  no  reason  why  these  pictures  could  not  be 
transferred  to  any  plaque  or  vase,  making  really  beautiful 
ornaments.  If  the  pictures  are  not  attainable  at  local  stores, 
they  can  be  obtained  in  the  larger  cities. 


Gfu^fktrk  ff^m 


SOMETHING  NOVEL  IN  EMBROIDERY. — FISH  SCALES. — HOW 
TO  MAKE  BAGS  AND  SACHETS. — COVER  FOR  A  BABY'S 
CRIB. — OVAL  FRAMES  FOR  PHOTOGRAPHS. — BASKETS. — 
A  KITCHEN  TABLE  TRANSFORMED  INTO  A  LIBRARY 
TABLE. — HOW   TO   MAKE   RUGS. — SHEEPSKIN   RUGS. 


llSH  SCALE  EMBROIDERY.-— It  remained  for 
some  ingenious  admirer  of  the  denizens  of  the 
deep  to  invent  some  plan  by  which  the  scales 
of  fishes  might  be  utilized  for  decorative  pur- 
poses. The  scales  of  any  fish  will  answer,  but 
those  of  perch  are  preferred  on  account  of  the 
variation  of  colors,  but  usually  a  variety  of 
scales  is  needed.  After  being  removed  from 
the  fish,  the  scales  must  be  cleaned,  and  while 
moist  two  holes  punched  near  the  roots  with  a 
small  awl  or  darning  needle,  or  short  incisions 
may  be  made  on  the  opposite  sides,  for  fastening 
them  on  the  design,  after  which  they  should  be 
placed  between  the  folds  of  some  paper  to  dry. 
Silk  or  satin  will  answer  for  a  ground  upon  which  to  set 
the  design,  but  velvet  is  also  appropriate.  Dark  colors  are 
best.  To  fasten  the  scales,  use  fine  silver  wife,  or  light- 
colored  silk  will  answer.  To  get  a  good  design,  it  should 
first  be  drawn  on  paper,  and  the  outlines  pricked  through 
with  a  pin,  after  which  the  pattern  should  be  placed  on  the 
material,  and  powdered  whiting  rubbed   through  the   pin 

y  [349J 


850 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


holes.  This  will  give  the  outline  upon  the  material,  but  as 
it  will  soon  brush  off,  go  over  it  with  ordinary  water  colors. 
Beads  may  be  used  to  make  the  stems  of  the  design,  and 
the  flowers  and  leaves  worked  with  scales.  If  several  tints 
are  desired,  the  scales  may  be  varnished  with  bright  colors 
before  they  are  sewed  on. 

A  Design  for  Fish  Scale  Embroidery. — Our  illustra- 
tion gives  a  very  pretty  design.  The  ground  is  of  maroon- 
colored  silk.  Work  the  stem  in  old-gold  silk  twist.  The 
leaves  and  roses  are  made  of  scales.     In  making  the  leaves, 

the  silver  wire  must  be  carried  across  the 

scales  to  represent        ^^^    1==^        the  veins.       And 


to  make  the  ro 
outer  circle  of 
sewing   thro' 
next  circle 
stitches,  and 
next,    until 
is    reached, 
b  e    finished 
beads,   or,   if 
small,  one  will 
bird  is  worked 
eyes  are  each 
the  beak,  legs 


t5 

claws 


ses,  sew  on  the 

scales  first, 

the  holes ;  the 

laps  over  the 

so  with  the 

the  center 

which  may 

with  a  few 

the  flower  be 

answer.     The 

as  follows:  The 

ofle  black  bead 

worked 


and  claws  are 

the  same  as  the  stems.  For  the  wings,  the  scales  are  sewed  on 
with  silver  wire  carried  across,  the  different  sizes  and  colors 
of  scales  making  up  the  entire  bird.  For  pointed  ends  of 
wings  the  scales  may  be  clipped  to  a  point  with  the  scissors. 
A  necklace  and  cross  of  scales  worked  on  black  velvet 
make  a  very  pretty  ornament  for  an  evening  toilet. 

Bags,  Sachets,  etc. — Reticules  and  bags  are  now  very 
popular,  and  any  lady  having  a  desire  to  possess  one  may 
make  it  without  great  expense.  Satin  is  the  favorite,  but 
plush  and  other  materials  are  quite  as  appropriate. 

They  should  be  made  with  draw-strings  of  satin,  and 
should  be  embroidered  or  painted  in  some  appropriate  de- 
sign. Peacock's  feathers,  violets,  pansies,  dog-wood,  and 
primroses  are  favorite  subjects.     The  inside  should  be  lined 


PATTERNS  FOR  FRAMES  AND  BASKETS.         351 

with  some  stiff  material.     The   handle    may   be   made   of 
twisted  silk  cord. 

Cover  for  a  Baby's  Crib. — There  was  recently  shown  at 
the  rooms  of  the  Society  of  Decorative  Art  in  New  York,  a 
crib  cover  which  attracted  great  attention.  The  material 
was  worked  with  silk,  on  white  linen,  the  design,  in  outline, 
being  several  sleepy  birds  perched  upon  a  branch,  with  a 
motto  underneath, — 

"Little  babes  which  sleep  all  night, 
Laugh  in  the  face  of  sorrow  ; 
Little  birds  which  sleep  all  night 
Sing  carols  on  the  morrow." 

By  way  of  suggestion,  it  might  be  added  that  the  design 
might  be  worked  on  some  semi-transparent  goods  with  a 
bright  lining;  underneath. 

Oval  Picture  Frames. — Very  handsome  frames  for  card  * 
and  cabinet  photographs  and  other  small  pictures,  may  be 
made  in  the  following  manner:  Take  a  piece  of  pine  board 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  the  size  you  wish  your  frame 
to  be,  and  with  a  saw  cut  out  an  oval  opening  in  the  cen- 
ter, large  enough  to  suit  the  picture.  Cover  the  board  with 
velvet,  plush,  or  silk,  cutting  out  the  center  and  turning  the 
edges  of  the  plush  around  the  edges  of  the  board,  and  also  at 
the  oval  opening.  Fasten  the  picture  over  the  opening  with 
strips  of  paper  pasted  across,  and  then  cover  the  entire  back 
with  some  colored  paper.  The  frame  may  have  narrow  bands 
of  ribbon  or  other  colored  material  running  diagonally  from 
the  edge  to  the  oval ;  or  sprays  of  flowers  may  be  painted 
or  embroidered  across  one  corner,  just  touching  the  oval. 
Square  frames  may  also  be  made  in  a  similar  manner. 

Imitation  Coral  Hanging  Baskets.— Take  old  hoops 
with  the  coverjpg  on ;  bend  and  tie  in  any  shape  desired ; 
tie  with  wrapping-twine,  with  ends  of  the  twine  left  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  long;  cover  the  basket  when  formed  with 
knots  or  ties  about  one  inch  apart  all  over  the  basket. 
Then  take  one-half  pound  of  bees-wax,  melt  in  a  shallow 
pan,  stir  in  enough  Japanese  vermillion  to  get  the  color  you 


352        OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

wish,  then  roll  the  basket  in  the  melted  wax  until  it  is 
completely  covered.  The  resemblance  to  red  coral  is  very 
true,  and  the  basket  is  admired  by  every  one.  We  have 
seen  one  made  in  this  way,  that  has  hung  exposed  to  the 
weather  for  two  years,  and  is  still  as  good  as  new. 

Baskets  for  Waste  Paper,  etc. — Take  two  tapering  bas- 
kets, such  as  peaches  are  shipped  in,  and  fasten  them  to- 
gether, bottom  to  bottom,  making  an  hour-glass  shape. 
Line  the  inside  of  each  basket,  but  use  different  colors,  say 
one  pink,  the  other  blue ;  cambric  will  answer  for  the  lining. 
For  a  cover,  select  whatever  material  may  suit  the  fancy, 
and  work  some  designs  in  outline  upon  it;  fasten  this  cover 
to  the  basket  from  top  to  bottom,  and  draw  in  the  middle 
with  a  ribbon.  By  selecting  baskets  of  a  proper  size,  they 
may  be  made  serviceable  for  office  use. 

It  will  be  observed  that  this  makes,  in  reality,  two  bas- 
kets, or  rather  a  reversible  basket. 

An  Elegant  Table. — An  ordinary  kitchen  table  can, 
with  little  trouble,  be  transformed  into  quite  an  elegant 
piece  of  furniture  for  the  library.  The  top  and  legs  are 
smoothly  covered  with  green  cloth ;  the  seam  on  the  legs  to 
be  neatly  sewed,  and  the  joining  made  on  the  inside  of  the 
leg  that  it  may  not  show.  It  is  then  tacked  at  the  top  to 
hold  it  in  place.  The  cloth  is  drawn  smoothly  over  the 
top,  and  tacked  all  around  the  sides.  The  head-piece  ex- 
tending around  the  sides  of  the  table  must  also  be  covered. 
An  under-shelf  is  made  of  pine  wood  covered  with  cloth, 
and  fitted  securely  to  the  legs  about  eight  inches  below  the 
top.  A  heavy  cord  fringe  of  green  worsted  must  be 
fastened  around  the  edge  of  the  top,  also  around  the  shelf, 
with  brass-headed  nails  about  an  inch  and  a  half  apart.  A 
castor  fitted  into  each  leg  will  finish  a  very  handsome  table 
for  the  parlor  or  library. 

How  to  Make  Rugs. 

Filled  Rugs. — Here  is  a  plan  for  making  very  handsome 
and  serviceable  rugs  at  little  expense.  The  foundation  is 
some   strong   but   open    cloth;  as  crash,   drugget,  or  coffee 


HOW  TO  MAKE  RUGS. 


353 


sacks.  The  foundation  should  be  stretched  upon  a  frame, 
and  some  pretty  design  sketched  upon  it;  the  sketch  should 
then  be  filled  in  with  silk,  cotton,  or  woolen  rags  of  tasty 
colors.  Siik  rags  look  best,  of  course,  but  worsted  may  be 
used  with  excellent  effect.  If  the  design  is  a  good  one,  the 
rug  will  be  quite  satisfactory.  The  rags  should  be  drawn 
through  with  a  large  crochet  needle,  and  the  ends  cut  every 
stitch ;  and  when  the  work  is  complete,  all  the  ends  should 
be  sheared  off  to  an  even  length.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to 
add  that  the  foundation  should  be  entirely  concealed  by  the 
filling,  and  the  wrong  side  lined  with  some  coarse  material. 
A  fringe  all  around  would  add  to  the  effect. 

Rugs  of  Sheepskin.— Here  is  a  field  for  ladies  who  will 
take  the  pains  to  follow  our  suggestion,  to  make  many 
pretty  and  useful  articles.  Wool  is  easily  colored,  either 
on  the  skin  or  in  f abrics.  Sheepskin  with  the  wool  on  can 
be  quite  easily  tanned.  Boil  the  skin  a  short  time  in  strong 
soap  suds  to  which  has  been  added  some  sal-soda,  and  soak 
it  for  twelve  hours  in  half  a  pound  each  of  salt  and  alum 
with  enough  water  to  cover  the  skin;  this  process  com- 
pletes the  tanning.  To  dress  it,  procure  a  large  board,  to 
which  tack  the  skin,  flesh  side  out,  and  before  it  is  dry 
sprinkle  it  with  a  powder  of  equal  parts  of  alum  and  salt- 
petre. Leave  it  to  dry  for  thirty  hours,  and  then  rub  it 
thoroughly  with  pumice  stone,  to  make  it  soft  and  pliable. 
To  make  a  rug  of  the  skin,  the  ends  of  the  wool  should  be 
colored  to  suit  the  fancy,  with  aniline  or  other  dyes,  after 
which  it  should  be  trimmed  and  lined. 

Carriage  Rugs. — Very  attractive  carriage  rugs  are 
made  by  bordering  some  bright  cloth  with  strips  of  the 
skin,  colored  to  match,  or  to  harmonize  with  the  center  of 
the  rug. 

To  Conceal  Flower-Pots. 

The  ordinary  Japanese  fan  has  found  still  another  use; 
viz.,  to  conceal  the  unsightly  sides  of  common  flower-pots. 
Remove  the  rivet  which  holds  the  fan  together,  and  in  its 
place  insert  a  wire  long  enough  to  reach  around  the  pot. 

23 


354         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Fasten  the  fan  around  the  base  by  means  of  the  wire, 
spreading  out  the  ribs  of  the  fan  so  that  they  extend  entirely 
around,  and  complete  the  work  by  fastening  the  extreme 
edges  of  the  fan  at  the  top. 

Simple  as  it  is,  this  transforms  an  unsightly  receptacle  for 
flowers  into  one  more  in  harmony  with  its  surroundings. 

Pretty  Lamp-Shades. 

The  pretty  lamp-shades  for  sale  in  the  stores,  can  be 
made  at  home  just  as  well,  and  with  much  less  expense. 
Procure  a  sheet  of  tissue-paper  of  the  desired  color,  and  cut 
it  ^  perfect  square.  Fold  two  opposite  edges,  creasing  it 
through  the  middle;  fold  again  the  other  way,  thus  making 
a  smaller  square  of  four  thicknesses.  Next  fold  this  square 
so  as  to  form  a  triangle,  and  then  this  triangle  into  a  smaller 
one,  letting  the  folds  point  to  the  center,  until  you  can  fold 
the  paper  no  more.  Now  taking  hold  of  the  center  with 
one  hand,  shake  out  the  folds,  and  gently  smooth  it  down, 
forming  many  creases.  Cut  out  the  center  large  enough  to 
slip  over  the  globe,  and  the  shade  is  complete,  unless  you 
wish  to  fringe  the  edges.  Cardinal,  pink,  violet,  or  light 
blue  are  the  best  colors  to  choose. 


GxFIAF>TRR     TV. 


ENCAUSTIC  TILES. — THEIR  DURABILITY. — HOW  TO  USE  THEM. 
— PAVING  HEARTHS. — COST. — MANTELS. — HOW  TO  GET 
THEM.— CABINETS. — HOME   DECORATION   OF    TILES. 


=>>Kc 


O  other  like  material  presents  better  opportunities 
for  gratifying  the  desire  to  embellish  and  beau- 
tify our  homes,  than  the  use  of  Encaustic  Tiles. 
They  are  made  of  powdered  clay  from  which 
all  foreign  substances  have  been  removed;  usu- 
ally they  are  in  squares  varying  from  one  to 
eight  inches;  some  styles  are  oblong,  others  tri- 
angular. 

Clay  can  be  colored  all  tints;  and  the  same 
block,  by  means  of  stamps  and  presses,  may  have 
a  perfect  and  pleasing  figure  of  two  or  more 
colors.  When  properly  pressed  and  burnt,  these  tiles  are  very 
serviceable,  and  when  the  additional  work  of  glazing  is  put 
on,  they  are  well-nigh  as  durable  as  stone  for  the  purposes 
intended. 

Whether  required  for  the  floors  or  walls  of  vestibules,  or 
the  ornamentation  of  hearths  and  mantels,  as  well  as  for 
other   purposes   of    decoration,  their   endless  variety,  their 

[355] 


7.  HOMES  AM'  THEIR   ADORNMENTS. 

various  shades  an<l  colors,   combine  in  farming  a  material 
suited  to  purposes  uf  ornament,  and  as  durable  as  beautiful. 

Hearths  and  Pavements. 

A  hearth  or  hall  can  be  paved  with  tiles  at  a  very  rea- 
sonable cost,  about  fifty  cents  per  square  foot,  and  when 
once  di  ne,  the  whole  always  presents  a  neat  anil  cosey  ap- 
pearance, and  is  easily  cleaned. 

The  patterns  can  usuallv  be  -elected  from  catalogues 
furnished  by  dealers  and  manufacturers. 

It  is  becoming  popular  to  lay  whole  floors  in  tiles,  and  as 
people  become  better  acquainted  with  this  material,  it.-  use 
will  supersede  wood  in  manv  cases  where  durability  and 
beauty  are  desired 

The  tile  floor  or  hearth  is  laid  in  mortar,  and  presents  a 
perfectly  smooth  surface,  the  joints  fitting  closely,  and  the 
whole  contrasting  finely  with  carpets  and  furniture. 

Mantels,    Cabinets,   etc. 

The  panels  at  sides  and  top  of  mantels  are  frequently 

ornamented  with  til-.-.  A  very  attractive  mantel  of  el 
ized  or  other  wood  can  be  decorated  in  (his  way.  and  the 
whole  cost  is  much  1—.-  than  for  the  cold  and  costly  slate  or 
marble  mantel.  The  tiles  are  set  in  the  panels,  -  mething 
after  the  fashion  of  a  picture  in  a  frame.  These  are  more 
costly  than  floor  tilings,  a,-  they  are  ornamented  with  all 
kin']- of  designs,  comprising  such  subjects  as  Is,  flow  - 
foliagt    designs  from  history,  Shi  ire,  and  the  Script- 

ure-. 

Panel-     f  '.'aV'iucts       •      facings,  an  1   furniture  ma;. 
ornamented  in  the  same  way,  and  where  the  designs      nsist 


MANTELS  AND  CABINETS.  357 

of  geometric  figures,  which  for  the  door-facings  are  appro- 
priate, the  cost  is  low.  Small  tiles  may  be  set  into  any  fur- 
niture desirable,  by  cutting  away  the  wood  to  the  desired 
size,  and  inserting  the  tile  with  plaster  or  putty.  As  the 
field  of  home  decoration  is  comparatively  broad,  the  good 
taste  of  the  proprietor  is  about  the  only  guide  as  to  the  ex- 
tent and  scope  of  the  work. 

Such  tiles  can  be  procured  six  to  eight  inches  square,  at 
a  cost  of  from  $1.80  to  So. 00  per  dozen.  Persons  of  decor- 
ative talent  can  buy  the  plain  tiles  and  decorate  them  to 
suit  their  fancy,  returning  them  to  the  factory  to  have  the 
designs  burned  in;  this  practice  has  of  late  become  very 
popular. 

It  is  advisable  to  consult  catalogues  of  designs  and  prices 
from  some  reliable  dealer  or  manufacturer,  before  attempt- 
ing to  do  very  much  in  this  style  of  decoration,  yet  there  is 
no  doubt  that  in  a  few  years  examples  may  be  found 
in  almost  every  home. 


LLNOEITSTI- WILTON. 


Lincrusta- Walton  is  the  name  of  a  new  material  for 
wall  and  ceiling  decorations,  recently  introduced  from 
England.  It  is  intended  to  supply  the  place  of  wall-paper, 
fresco,  or  plaster,  and  at  the  same  time  to  give  the  effect 
of  elegant  carvings,  at  moderate  cost.  This  material  has 
been  quite  extensively  used  in  Europe,  and  has  met  all  the 
requirements  of  a  perfect  wall  covering.  It  is  composed  of 
vegetable  fiber  and  oils  to  make  it  plastic,  and  while  in  this 
state  it  is  stamped  in  many  chaste  patterns.  By  means  of 
stamps,  colors,  bronze,  and  gold,  it  can  be  made  to  imitate 
carved  wood,  metals,  or  any  other  materials  intended  for 
walls  or  ceilings. 

It  is  not  affected  by  variations  of  heat  or  cold,  and  may 
be  washed  thoroughly  without  injury.  It  is  not  damaged 
by  the  action  of  water,  as  samples  have  been  exposed  on  the 
outside  of  buildings  and  immersed  in  water  for  one  vear 
with  no  evil  effects. 

I  It  would  be  difficult  to  produce  a  material  which  im- 
parts richer  effects,  and  lends  an  air  of  more  refinement  to  a 
room. 

Angles  and  joints  offer  no  opposition  to  its  appli- 
cation, as  it  is  so  flexible  that  it  may  be  fitted  to  any 
surface  by  the  use  of  paste,  just  the  same  as  wall-paper  is 
applied.  [358] 


-^v;>3i>«flgl31glifflgllWBHU^»lfliaiai3lgl,il>TI^ 


ftAIW'rv.^-yM'i 


LINCRUSTA  WALTON. 


LINCRUSTA-W ALTON. 


359 


Its  cost  is  about  that  of  the  finer  qualities  of  wall-paper, 
but  its  durability  and  elegance  recommend  it,  and  it  is  much 
more  economical  in  the  long  run.  A  manufactory  has  re- 
cently been  established  in  Connecticut,  and  its  general  use 
in  all  the  better  class  of  buildings  seems  but  a  question  of 
time. 

This  material  is  controlled  by  the  Lincrusta-Walton 
Company,  41  Union  Square,  N.  Y.,  and  all  leading  dealers 
in  wall  decorations  keep  it  in  stock. 

The  accompanying  illustration  gives  a  very  clear  idea  of 
the  material,  except  that  it  is  impossible  to  reproduce  the 
rich  effects  of  the  blending  of  colors  upon  the  objects  in 
relief. 


Chapter   V. 


DYEING  AND  BLEACHING. 

DYEING  COTTON. — HOW  TO  TREAT  THE  FABRICS. — DIREC- 
TIONS FOR  ALL  LEADING  COLORS. — DYEING  WOOLENS 
ANILINE  COLORS. — COLORING  STRAW  HATS. — HOW  TO 
MAKE   MORDANTS. 


o>*ic 


JVERY  frugal  housewife  has  frequent  occasion  to 
resort  to  Dyeing  to  restore  faded  but  slightly 
worn  garments  and  other  articles  of  dress  to 
the  original  or  some  other  color,  as  well  as  to 
color  yarns.  But  she  has  not  always  at  hand 
the  proper  directions  for  making  the  dyes,  and 
so  many  times  the  professional  dyer  is  given  the 
work. 

In  the  following  pages  are  such  direction 
and  recipes  as  will  be  found  of  great  value  in 
preparing  the  garments  for  and  giving  them  the 
desired  color.  It  will  be  observed  that  separate  directions 
are  given  for  Cotton  and  Wool  as  it  frequently  happens 
that  the  bath  intended  for  woolens  will  not  color  cotton  the 
desired  shade. 

This  department   contains  a  list  of  reliable  and  trust- 


[36CiJ 


DYEING  COTTON.  3G1 

worthy  recipes  for  all  colors  that  can  be  made  without  the 
aid  of  an  experienced  dyer.  The  proportions  are  generally 
in  such  quantities  as  are  needed  most.  In  the  fixation  of 
color  upon  cloth,  recourse  is  often  had  to  a  Trior dant,  which 
acts  as  a  middle  agent  and  attaches  the  color  to  the  cloth. 

The  principal  mordants  are  alum,  cream  of  tartar,  and 
salts  of  tin.  Previous  to  the  application  of  any  color,  the 
cloth  or  yarn  must  be  well  cleansed  from  grease,  oil,  etc.,  by 
scouring  in  soda  or  soap ;  and  except  where  the  material  is 
to  be  dyed  of  dark  color,  the  goods  are  also  subjected  to  the 
process  of  bleaching.  In  case  of  fabrics  which  require  a 
smooth  surface,  the  preliminary  operation  of  singeing  off  the 
loose  hairs  is  resorted  to. 

Note. — Many  of  the  within  Dyeing  recipes  are  taken  from  the  Peoples' 
Cyclopedia,  a  work  which  is  pronounced  by  the  best  critics  superior  to 
any  other  Cyclopedia  ever  published. 

Dyeing  Cotton. 

The  following  recipes  for  dyeing  cotton  apply  to  10 
pounds  weight  of  cotton  yarn  or  cloth,  which  is  found  to  be 
the  smallest  quantity  capable  of  being  well  dyed  at  one  time. 
The  proportions  of  each  ingredient  may  be  altered,  however, 
so  as  to  correspond  with  the  quantity  to  be  operated  upon. 

1.  Common  Black. — Take  3  lbs.  sumac,  and  treat  with 
hot  water,  steeping  the  goods  in  the  hot  decoction  for  some 
hours;  wring  out,  wash  for  10  minutes  in  lime-water,  and 
for  30  minutes  in  a  solution  of  2  lbs.  copperas. 

Wash  the  goods  well  in  cold  water,  sometimes  repeating 
the  treatment  with  lime,  and  rewashing;  then  work  the 
goods  for  30  minutes  in  a  warm  solution  of  3  lbs.  of  log- 
wood, and  afterward  with  2  oz.  copperas;  work  again  for 
10  minutes;  wash  and  dry. 


362  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

2.  Jet  Black. — Proceed  as  at  1,  adding  1  lb.  of  fustic 
with  the  logwood ;  and  when  3  pts.  of  iron  liquor  are  used 
instead  of  the  2  oz.  copperas,  a  more  brilliant  black  is 
obtained. 

3.  Blue  Black. — Use  indigo  blue  vat,  then  proceed  as 
at  1. 

4.  Brown. — Treat  the  goods  with  a  yellow  dye,  then 
work  for  30  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  2  lbs.  lima  wood, 
and  8  oz.  logwood;  lift  and  work  with  2  oz.  alum  for  15 
minutes,  then  wash  and  dry. 

5.  Catechu  Brown. — Immerse  the  goods  at  a  boiling 
temperature  in  a  decoction  of  catechu;  then  work  for 
30  minutes  in  a  hot  solution  of  6  oz.  bichromate  of  pot- 
ash. Wash  in  hot  water.  If  the  latter  contains  a  little 
soap,  the  color  will  be  improved. 

6.  French  Brown. — Dye  the  goods  witb/a  spirit  yellow, 
then  treat  for  half  an  hour  with  a  solution  of  3  lbs.  of  log- 
wood; raise  with  a  little  red  liquor,  work  for  10  minutes, 
wash  and  dry. 

7.  Red. — Make  a  hot  solution  of  3  lbs.  of  sumac,  intro- 
duce the  goods,  and  let  them  stand  till  the  liquor  is  cold ; 
then  wring  out  and  work  in  water  containing  in  each  gallon 
a  gill  of  red  spirits  (prepared  by  adding  2  oz.  feathered 
tin  by  degrees  to  a  mixture  of  3  parts  hydrochloric  acid, 
1  part  of  nitric  acid,  and  1  of  water),  in  the  cold,  for 
30  minutes,  wring  and  wash  well;  then  work  the  goods 
for  30  minutes  in  a  lukewarm  decoction  of  3  lbs.  of 
lima  wood  and  1  lb.  of  fustic,  add  a  gill  of  red  spirits, 
work  the  goods  longer,  wash  and  dry.  The  famous  Turkey- 
red  is  imparted  to  the  cloth  by  first  impregnating  it  with  an 
oily  or  fatty  substance,  and  then  subjecting  it  to  a  decoc- 
tion of  madder. 


DYEING   COTTON.  363 

8.  Yellow  or  Straw. — Work  the  goods  in  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  acetate  of  lead ;  then  wring  out,  and  work  in  a  dilute 
solution  of  bichromate  of  potash ;  wring  out,  and  work  again 
in  the  lead  solution;  wash  and  dry. 

9.  Leghorn  Yelloiv. — Proceed  as  at  8,  but  add  a  little 
annotto  liquor  with  the  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash. 

10.  Spirit  Yelloiv. — Work  the  goods  through  a  weak 
solution  of  protochloride  of  tin  for  30  minutes,  then  work  in 
a  solution  of  quercitron  bark  for  15  minutes.  Lift  out,  and 
work  again  in  tin  solution,  and  wash  in  cold  water. 

11.  Orange. — Proceed  as  at  8,  and  afterward  pass 
through  lime-water  at  the  boiling  point,  finally  washing  in 
cold  water. 

12.  Blue. — The  goods  are  worked  in  various  strengths 
of  solution  of  salts  of  iron,  such  as  nitrate  of  iron;  wring 
out,  wash  in  water,  and  then  work  in  solution  of  yellow 
prussiate  of  potash;  wring  out  and  wash  in  water,  and  then 
work  in  solution  of  yellow  prussiate  of  alum.  The  various 
shades  of  blue  may  be  obtained  by  using  stronger  or  weaker 
solutions. 

13.  Green. — Dye  the  cloth  blue,  then  work  in  red  liquor 
(acetate  of  alumina),  wash  in  water,  work  in  decoction  of 
fustic  or  bark,  raise  with  solution  of  alum;  wash  in  cold 
water  and  dry.  The  darker  shades  of  green,  as  olive  or 
bottle  green,  are  brought  out  by  the  use  of  sumac  and  log- 
wood, along  with  the  fustic. 

14.  Lilac. — Work  the  cloth  or  yarn  with  spirits,  (see  7), 
then  in  logwood  solution  at  a  temperature  of  140°  Fahr- 
enheit, adding  a  little  red  spirits,  red  liquor,  or  alum,  wash 
and  dry;  or  dye  the  cloth  blue  (12),  then  work  in  solution 
of  logwood,  add  alum,  wash  and  dry. 


364  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

15.  Purple. — Soak  the  goods  in  a  warm  decoction  of 
sumac  till  cold,  work  for  an  hour  in  red  spirits,  wash,  work 
in  hot  solution  of  logwood,  then  add  a  little  red  spirits,  and 
work  again,  wash  and  dry.  The  various  shades  of  purple 
may  be  obtained  by  altering  the  strength  of  the  chemicals ; 
the  more  sumac,  the  browner  the  hue;  and  the  more  log- 
wood, the  bluer  the  purple  becomes. 

16.  Lavender  or  Peach. — Work  the  goods  for  20  min- 
utes in  spirit  plumb  (a  strong  solution  of  logwood  treated 
with  about  one-sixth  of  its  volume  of  a  solution  of  tin;  made 
by  dissolving  tin  in  6  or  7  parts  of  hydrochloric  acid,  1  part 
of  nitric  acid,  and  1  of  water),  wring  out  and  wash  well  in 
cold  water. 

17.  Drab. — Work  the  goods  in  a  decoction  of  sumac, 
lift,  add  copperas,  rework,  wash  in  water,  then  work  in  a 
mixed  decoction  of  fustic,  lima  wood,  and  logwood,  raise 
with  a  little  alum,  wash  and  dry.  Catechu  is  occasionally 
employed. 

Woolen  Dyeing. 

A  pound  of  wool  woven  into  common  merino  measures 
about  3  yards,  common  moreen  about  2  yards. 

1.  Jet  Black. — For  50  lbs.  Prepare  with  2j  lbs.  chrome, 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  wash  in  two  waters.  Dye  with  20 
lbs.  logwood  and  2  lbs.  fustic.  Boil  half  an  hour,  in  one 
water,  then  rinse  in  a  slight  sour,  moderately  warm,  wash  in 
one  cold  water,  and  finish  out  of  a  warm  one,  softened  with 
a  little  urine. 

2.  Fast  Black. — For  50  lbs.  Prepare  with  2  lbs.  chrome, 
1  lb.  tartar,  and  1  quart  muriate  of  tin;  boil  1  hour  and 
wash  in  2  waters.     Dye  with  25  lbs.  logwood  and  3  lbs. 


DYEING    WOOLEN.  365 

fustic.  Boil  30  minutes,  lift,  add  1  pt.  vitriol.  Return  for 
10  minutes,  then  wash  and  dry.  To  render  this  blue-black, 
omit  the  fustic. 

3.  French  Brown. — For  50  lbs.  Preparation:  1|  lbs. 
chrome.  Dyeing,  6  lbs.  cudbear,  1  lb.  tartar;  and  if  not 
dark  enough,  add  8  oz.  logwood.     Boil  half  an  hour. 

4.  Claret. — For  50  lbs.  Preparation:  1|  lbs.  chrome. 
Dyeing,  9  lbs.  lima  wood,  2  lbs.  logwood,  ^  lb.  tartar.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

5.  Purple. — For  50  lbs.  Wash  in  a  preparation  of  1^ 
lbs.  tartar,  and  1  lb.  alum;  wash  in  3  waters.  Dye  with 
10  lbs.  logwood,  boil  half  an  hour,  raise  with  1  quart  muri- 
ate of  tin. 

6.  Pale  Blue. — For  50  lbs.  1  gill  sulphuric  acid,  3  oz. 
extract  of  indigo,  1  lb.  alum.  Enter  cold  with  one-half  of 
the  extract,  give  the  other  half  when  the  boiler  warms. 

7.  Pea  Green. — For  54  lbs.  2  lbs.  extract  of  indigo,  7 
lbs.  fustic,  1  lb.  alum.  Bring  on  from  the  cold,  when  the 
boiler  heats  to  180°  Fahrenheit,  put  in  the  fustic,  boil  15 
minutes. 

8.  Olive  Green. — For  50  lbs.  Prepare  with  H  lbs.  chrome; 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  wash  in  2  waters;  then  boil  12  lbs. 
fustic  and  2|  lbs.  logwood  for  1  hour;  add  2  lbs.  madder 
and  2  lbs.  redwood.  Enter;  boil  half  an  hour.  Raise  in 
the  same  liquor  with  4  oz.  blue-stone;  wash  well  and  dry. 

9.  Drab. — For  50  lbs.  7  lbs.  fustic,  8  oz.  madder,  4  oz. 
cudbear,  2  lbs.  alum,  8  oz.  tartar.  Enter  between  the  cold 
and  160°  Fahrenheit;  after  heating  up,  boil  from  10  to  30 
minutes;  wash  in  2  waters.  All  dark  shades  of  this  and 
the  following  color  may  be  slightly  prepared  with  chrome; 
wash  in  2  waters. 


2Q6  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

10.  Slate. — For  50  lbs.  1  lb.  logwood,  4  oz.  fustic,  8 
oz.  extract  of  indigo,  2  lbs.  tartar,  2  lbs.  alum.  Work  as 
for  drab. 

11.  Yellow. — For  40  lbs.  2i  lbs.  quercitron  bark,  2  lbs. 
tartar,  2  quarts  muriate  of  tin.  Enter  at  150°  Fahrenheit; 
boil  30  minutes. 

12.  Amber. — For  40  lbs.  Boil  4  lbs.  quercitron  bark  and 
8  oz.  madder.  Add  2  quarts  muriate  of  tin,  1  lb.  tartar. 
Enter  at  200°  Fahrenheit;  boil  30  minutes. 

13.  Orange. — For  50  lbs.  Boil  10  lbs.  quercitron  bark 
and  lj  lb.  cochineal.  Add  2  lbs.  tartar,  2  J  quarts  yellow 
spirits.     Enter  at  200°  Fahrenheit;  boil  30  minutes. 

14.  Rose  Color. — For  40  lbs.  1  lb.  cochineal,  3  gills 
double  muriate  of  tin,  1  lb.  tartaric  acid.  Enter  at  100° 
Fahrenheit,  heat  up;  boil  15  minutes;  lift,  and  cool  to  1209 
T)y  throwing  out  part  of  the  liquor,  and  filling  up  with 
water;  add  1  gill  ammonia  paste,  12  oz.  tartaric  acid,  6  oz. 
oxalic  acid.  Bring  up  to  boiling;  when  the  desired  shade 
is  reached,  wash  well  and  dry. 

15  Scarlet  with  Cochineal. — For  50  lbs.  Boil  4  lbs. 
cochineal  and  If  lb.  quercitron  bark.  Add  3  lbs.  tartar,  2 
qts.  scarlet  spirits.  Enter  at  200°  Fahrenheit;  boil  1 
one  hour;  wash  well.  Sour  before  dyeing,  either  cold  or 
"warm ;  wash  in  1  water  and  take  out. 

Aniline  Colors. — No  mordant  is  necessary  for  these 
colors  when  used  on  silk  or  woolen;  the  proper  quantity 
of  clear  liquid  is  mixed  with  slightly  warm  water,  the  scum 
skimmed  off,  and  the  goods  entered  and  worked  until 
the  required  shade  is  obtained.  For  dyeing  cotton,  the 
cloth  is  steeped  in  sumac  or  tannic  acid,  dyed  in  the  color, 
and  then  fixed  by  tin;  or  the  cloth  may  be  sumaced 
and  mordanted  as  usual  with  tin,  and  then  dyed. 


ANILINE  DYES.  3G7 

Aniline  Dyes. 

The  following  recipes  are  for  working  pure  anilines, 
and  we  suggest  that  to  obtain  good  colors,  the  dyes  used 
should  be  those  of  the  Crown  Aniline  Works  (T.  H.  Eaton 
and  Son,  Detroit,  Mich).  The}/  can  be  obtained  of  any  re- 
liable druggist  who  may  choose  to  order  them,  or  the  cus- 
tomer can  order  direct  from  the  manufacturers.  It  is  very 
important  to  have  clean  soft  water  and  clean  goods  to  make 
good  colors.  To  remove  grease  from  goods,  run  them 
through  sal-soda  water.  When  you  dye,  use  wood  or  cop- 
per vessels. 

Dissolving. — Aniline  dyes  of  all  colors  should  be  dis- 
solved in  water  boiling  hot,  using  10  gallons  of  hot  water  to 
one  pound  of  dye,  and  smaller  quantities  in  proportion,  be- 
fore being  placed  in  the  bath  intended  for  immersing   the 

goods. 

Dyeing  Wool. 

Magenta, — Crimson. — Violet. — Dye  in  a  neutral  bath 
(a  neutral  bath  is  a  bath  of  clean  water  only).  Start  at 
hand  heat,  and  raise  the  temperature  of  the  bath  to  below 
boiling  point,  but  do  not  boil.  The  amount  of  dye  to  be 
used  will  depend  upon  the  color  you  want  to  produce;  the 
goods  may  be  raised  from  time  to  time,  and  more  dye 
added.  Care  should  be  taken  to  turn  the  goods  well  while 
in  the  bath  ;  wash  in  clean  cold  water,  wring,  and  dry. 

For  Silk,  dye  as  above,  only  add  a  little  dissolved  Mar- 
seilles soap. 

Scarlets  and  Cardinals.— -For  50  pounds  of  goods, 
(smaller  quantities  in  proportion),  take  one  pound  cochineal 


368         OUR  EOMEtS  AND  THEIR  ADORXMEXTS. 

substitute,  or  one  pound  cardinal  red,  dissolve,  and  add  to  a 
bath  soured  with  oil  of  vitriol  until  the  bath  is  about  as  sour 
as  weak  vinegar ;  enter  the  goods  at  hand  heat,  turn  well 
while  raising  to  the  boil,  and  boil  30  minutes.  Wash  in 
cold  water,  wring,  and  dry. 

Silk  is  dyed  in  the  same  manner,  only  use  strong  vine- 
gar to  sour  the  bath,  and  a      some  Marseilles  soap. 

Scarlet  and  cardinal  are  fast  colors,  and  will  not  fade. 

Pink. — For  50  pounds,  take  \  pound  of  eosine,  dissolve 
and  add  to  a  bath  containing  5  lbs.  of  alum  ;  bring  to  the 
boil,  but  do  not  boil  long. 

Orange. — Dye  the  same  as  scarlet  ;  use  Orange  I. 

Acid  or  Navy  Blue. — For  50  pounds  of  goods,  take  one 
pound  navy  or  any  acid  blue,  dissolve  the  blue,  and  add 
to  a  bath  containing:  oil  of  vitriol  sufficient  to  make  it  as 
sour  as  weak  vinegar ;  boil  goods  for  one  hour,  wash  well  in 
cold  water,  wring,  and  dry. 

Nicholson  Blue  {Fast  Blue). — For  50  pounds  of  goods, 
take  \  pound  3  B,  Nicholson  blue,  dissolve,  and  add 
to  a  bath  containing  5  pounds  sal-soda.  Enter  the 
goods,  and  work  to  the  boiling  point,  boiling  30  minutes ; 
then  take  out  and  wash  in  clean  cold  water.  Prepare  a 
second  bath  of  clean  water,  make  it  sour  to  taste  with  oil 
of  vitriol,  bring  the  bath  to  hand  heat,  enter  the  goods, 
and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Wash  well  in  cold  water, 
wring,  and  dry. 

Seal  Broivn. — For  50  pounds  of  goods,  dissolve  one 
pound  mode  brown  in  5  gallons  boiling  water;  make  your 
bath  quite  sour  with  oil  of  vitriol,  add  5  pounds  of  glauber 


USEFUL  SUGGESTIONS.  369 

Baits.     Enter  the  goods,  boil  30  minutes,  wash  in  cole]  water, 
and  dry. 

Yellow. — Dye  with  acid  yellow,  and  work  same  as 
scarlet. 

Green. — Dye  with  Frankfort  green  the  same  as  for  fast 
blue. 

Anilines  are  not  adapted  for  domestic  cotton  dyeing,  but 
a  good  color  can  be  made  with  cotton  blue  by  working  in 
a  bath  of  clear  water  containing  cotton  blue,  alum,  and 
glauber  salts.  For  50  pounds  of  goods,  £  pound  blue,  2£ 
pounds  alum,  and  2  pounds  glauber  salts. 

Useful  Suggestions. 

In  accommodation  to  the  requirements  of  dyers,  many  of 
the  recipes  describe  dyes  for  large  quantities  of  goods;  but 
to  make  them  equally  adapted  for  the  use  of  private  fami- 
lies, they  are  usually  given  in  even  quantities,  so  that  it  is 
quite  an  easy  matter  to  ascertain  the  quantity  of  materials 
required  for  dyeing,  when  once  the  weight  of  the  goods  is 
known,  the  quantity  of  materials  used  being  reduced  in 
proportion  to  the  smaller  quantity  of  goods. 

Use  soft  water  for  all  dyeing  purposes,  if  it  can  be  pro- 
cured, using  4  gals,  water  to  1  lb.  of  goods ;  for  larger  quan- 
tities, a  little  less  water  will  do.  Let  all  the  implements 
used  in  dyeing  be  kept  perfectly  clean.  Prepare  the  goods 
by  scouring  well  with  soap  and  water,  washing  the  soap  out 
well  and  dipping  in  warm  water,  previous  to  immersion  in 
the  dye  or  mordant.  Goods  should  be  well  aired,  rinsed,  and 
properly  hung  up  after  dyeing.  Silks,  and  fine  goods  should 
be  tenderly  handled,  otherwise  injury  to  the  fabric  will  re- 
sult, a* 


370  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Mordants  are  solutions  used  to  fix  colors  and  may  be 
made  from  several  common  chemicals.  A  good  one  is  made 
by  mixing  copperas  and  acetate  of  iron  in  proportion  of 
four  of  the  former  to  six  of  the  latter.  Immerse  the  cotton 
-or  linen  to  be  colored,  in  this  before  putting  in  color  vat. 
Mordants  must  be  used  in  dyeing  cotton  fabrics,  as  they  fix 
the  color. 

Before  using  Cudbear,  it  must  always  be  drenched  with 
a  little  hot  water,  to  the  consistency  of  paste ;  then  scald  or 
boil  it  as  occasion  may  require. 

A  solution  of  tannin  or  sumac  makes  a  good  mordant. 
Alum  or  cream  of  tartar  will  answer. 

"Sour,"  referred  to  in  some  recipes,  is  made  by  stirring 
into  clean  water  enough  sulphuric  acid  to  give  a  sharp  taste. 
The  acid  can  be  procured  at  any  druggist's. 

To  Color  Straw  Hats  or  Bonnets  a  Beautiful  Slate. 
— First,  soak  the  bonnet  in  rather  strong  warm  suds  for  15 
minutes,  to  remove  sizing  or  stiffening;  then  rinse  in  warm 
water,  to  get  out  the  soap;  now  scald  cudbear,  1  oz.,  in  suf- 
ficient water  to  cover  the  hat  or  bonnet ;  work  the  bonnet 
in  this  dye,  at  180°  of  heat,  until  you  get  a  light  purple; 
now  have  a  bucket  of  cold  water,  blued  with  the  extract  of 
indigo,  h  oz.,  and  work  or  stir  the  bonnet  in  this  until  the 
tint  pleases;  dry,  then  rinse  out  with  cold  water,  and  dry 
again  in  the  shade.  If  you  get  the  purple  too  deep  in 
shade,  the  final  slate  will  be  too  dark. 

Dye  for  Feathers. — Black:  Immerse  for  two  or  three 
days  in  a  bath,  at  first  hot,  of  logwood,  eight  parts,  and  cop- 
peras or  acetate  of  iron,  one  part.  Blue  :  with  the  indigo  vat. 
Brown  :  by  using  any  of  the  brown  dyes  for  silk  or  woolen. 
Crimson:    a  mordant  of  alum,  followed  by  a  hot  bath  of 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  BLEACHING.  371 

Brazil-wood,  afterward  by  a  weak  dye  of  cudbear.  Pink 
or  Rose:  with  saf -flower  or  lemon  juice.  Plum:  with 
the  red  dye,  followed  by  an  alkaline  bath.  Red:  a  mor- 
dant of  alum,  followed  by  a  bath  of  Brazil-wood.  Yel- 
low :  a  mordant  of  alum,  followed  by  a  bath  of  turmeric  or 
weld.  Green  Dye:  take  of  verdigris  and  verditer,  of 
each  one  ounce,  gum  water  1  pt. ;  mix  them  well,  and  dip 
the  feathers,  they  having  been  first  soaked  in  hot  water, 
into  the  said  mixture.  For  Purple,  use  lake  and  indigo 
For  Carnation,  vermilion  and  smalt.  Thin  gum  of 
starch  water  should  be  used  in  dyeing  feathers. 

Bleaching. 

To  Bleach  Sponge. — Soak  it  well  in  dilute  muriatic 
acid  for  twelve  hours.  Wash  well  with  water  to  remove 
the  lime,  then  immerse  in  a  solution  of  hyposulphate  of  soda, 
to  which  dilute  muriatic  acid  has  been  added  a  moment  be- 
fore. After  it  is  bleached  sufficiently,  remove  it,  wash 
again,  and  dry.     It  may  thus   be  bleached  almost  white. 

To  Whiten  Lace. — Lace  may  be  restored  to  its  original 
whiteness  by  first  ironing  it  slightly,  then  folding  it,  and 
sewing  it  into  a  clean  linen  bag,  which  is  placed  for  twenty 
hours  in  pure  olive-oil.  Afterward  the  bag  is  to  be  boiled 
in  a  solution  of  soap  and  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  well 
rinsed  in  lukewarm  water,  and  finally  dipped  into  water 
containing  a  slight  proportion  of  starch.  The  lace  is  then 
to  be  taken  from  the  bag,  and  stretched  on  pins  to  dry. 

Bleaching  Straw  Goods. — Straw  is  bleached  by  simply 
exposing  it  in  a  closed  chamber  to  the  fumes  of  burning  sul- 
phur, an  old  flour  barrel  is  the  apparatus  most  used  for  the 
purpose  by  milliners,  a  flat  stone  being  laid  on  the  ground, 


372  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  sulphur  ignited  thereon,  and  the  barrel  containing  the 
goods  to  be  bleached  turned  over  it.  The  goods  should  be 
previously  washed  in  pure  water. 

To  Clean  Ostrich  Feathers. — Cut  some  white  curd  soap 
in  small  pieces,  pour  boiling  water  on  it  and  add  a  little 
pearlash.  When  the  soap  is  quite  dissolved,  and  the  mixt- 
ure cool  enough  for  the  hand  to  bear,  plunge  the  feathers 
into  it,  and  draw  them  through  the  hand  till  the  dirt  ap- 
pears squeezed  out  of  them,  pass  them  through  a  clean  lather 
with  some  blue  in  it,  then  rinse  them  in  cold  water  with 
blue  to  give  them  a  good  color.  Beat  them  against  the 
hand  to  shake  off  the  water,  and  dry  by  shaking  them 
near  a  fire.  When  perfectly  dry,  coil  each  fiber  separately 
with  a  blunt  knife,  or  ivory  folder. 

Bleaching  Powder. — Chloride  of  lime  makes  a  good 
bleaching  powder.  The  stuff  to  be  bleached  is  first  boiled 
in  lime-water;  wash,  and  without  drying,  boil  again  in  a 
solution  of  soda  or  potash ;  wash,  and  without  drying,  steep 
in  a  weak  mixture  of  chloride  of  lime  and  water  for  six 
hours ;  wash,  and  without  drying,  steep  for  four  hours  in  a 
weak  solution  or  mixture  of  sulphuric  acid  and  water;  wash 
well  and  dry.  Upon  an  emergency,  chlorate  of  potash,  mixed 
with  three  times  its  weight  of  common  salt  and  diluted  in 
water,  may  be  used  as  a  bleaching  liquid. 

Bleaching  Ivory. — Antique  works  in  ivory  that  have 
become  discolored  may  be  brought  to  a  pure  whiteness  by 
exposing  them  to  the  sun  under  glasses.  It  is  the  particular 
property  of  ivory  to  resist  the  action  of  the  sun's  rays,  when 
it  is  under  glass;  but  when  deprived  of  this  protection,  to 
become  covered  with  a  multitude  of  minute  cracks.  Many 
antique  pieces  of  sculpture  in  ivory  may  be  seen,  which, 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  BLEACHING.  373 

although  tolerably  white,  are,  at  the  same  time,  defaced  by 
numerous  cracks;  this  defect  cannot  be  remedied;  but  in 
order  to  conceal  it,  the  dust  may  be  removed  by  brushing 
the  work  with  warm  water  and  soap,  and  afterward  placing 
it  under  glass.  Antique  works  in  ivory  that  have  become 
discolored,  may  be  brushed  with  pumice-stone,  calcined  and 
diluted,  and  while  yet  wet  placed  under  glasses.  They 
should  be  daily  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun,  and  be 
turned  from  time  to  time,  that  they  may  become  equally 
bleached;  if  the  brown  color  be  deeper  on  one  side  than  the 
other,  that  side  will,  of  course,  be  for  the  longest  time  ex- 
posed to  the  sun. 

To  Bleach  Prints  and  Printed  Books. — Simple  im- 
mersion in  dilute  muriatic  acid,  letting  the  article  remain  in 
it  a  longer  or  shorter  space  of  time,  according  to  the  strength 
of  the  liquor,  will  be  sufficient  to  whiten  an  engraving ;  if  it 
be  required  to  whiten  the  paper  of  a  bound  book,  as  it  is 
necessary  that  all  the  leaves  should  be  moistened  by  the 
acid,  care  must  be  taken  to  open  the  book  well,  and  to  make 
the  boards  rest  on  the  edge  of  the  vessel,  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  paper  alone  shall  be  dipped  in  the  liquid ;  the  leaves 
must  be  separated  from  each  other,  in  order  that  they  may 
be  equally  moistened  on  both  sides.  The  liquor  assumes  a 
yellow  tint,  and  the  paper  becomes  white  in  the  same  pro- 
portion. At  the  end  of  two  or  three  hours  the  book  may  be 
taken  from  the  acid  liquor,  and  plunged  into  pure  water 
with  the  same  care  and  precaution  as  recommended  in  re- 
gard to  the  acid  liquor,  that  the  water  may  touch  both  sides 
of  each  leaf.  The  water  must  be  renewed  every  hour,  to 
extract  the  acid  remaining  in  the  paper,  and  to  dissipate  the 
disagreeable  smell.  Printed  paper  may  also  be  bleached  by 
sulphuric  acid,  or  by  alkaline  or  soap  leys. 


374  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Washing  Fluid. — Take  1  lb.  sal-soda,  \  lb.  good  un- 
slaked lime,  and  5  qts.  of  water;  boil  a  short  time,  let  it 
settle,  and  pour  off  the  clear  fluid  into  a  stone  jug,  and  cork 
for  use;  soak  your  white  clothes  over  night  in  simple  water, 
wring  out  and  soap  wristbands,  collars,  and  dirty  or  stained 
places;  have  your  boiler  half  filled  with  water  just  begin- 
ning to  boil,  then  put  in  one  common  tea-cupful  of  this  fluid, 
stir  and  put  in  your  clothes,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour,  then 
rub  lightly  through  one  suds  only,  and  all  is  complete. 


e-A_i> 


7/* 


Squsmold 


t   OIF"   >- 


[3751 


3KTKHIS  department  embraces  a  list  of  Recipes,  many  of 
£j^e  which  have  appeared  in  no  other  work,  and  the  whole 

list  may  be  relied  upon  as  practical,  easy,  and  effective. 

The  following  classification  of  subjects  has  been  intro- 
duced for  the  benefit  of  the  reader  :  Hints  on  Health,  Hints 
on  Home  Adornments,  Toilet  Recipes,  Dyeing  and  Bleach- 
ing, Cleaning  and  Scouring,  Varnishes  and  Paints,  Cements, 
•nd  Miscellaneous  Recipes. 


[376] 


— -^=a    THE    S*rr 
**<&— P — ....flBP"» 


IIIUIH 

T 


i^^g^S^^ 


■4*- 


OUSEHOLD  COMPENDIUM. 


-?~-Sc^^>'y|^<^cr=g-*- 


-♦ 


DISINFECTANT  FOR  SICK-ROOMS.— Let 

a  reliable  apothecary  put  up  for  you  in  a  small 
bottle  four  ounces  of  ninety  per  cent  alcohol  and 
one  ounce  of  thirty-six  per  cent  nitric  acid. 
One-half  of  this  mixture  will  disinfect  a  room 
fifty  feet  long,  thirty  feet  wide,  and  twelve  feet 
high.  One  large  spoonful  of  it  (one-half  ounce) 
will  disinfect  a  large  bed-room  containing  1,200 
cubic  feet  of  air-space.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  it 
(two  drachms)  will  disinfect  a  bed-room  nine  feet 
square,  and  seven  and  one-half  feet  high.  A 
tea-spoonful  (one  drachm)  is  sufficient  for  300  cubic  feet  of 
air-space. 

The  method  of  using  the  mixture  is  as  follows:  Put  the 
quantity  to  be  used  in  a  porcelain  capsule  (a  tea  saucer  will 
do),  set  a  pan  of  warm  water  in  the  room  to  be  disinfected ; 
let  the  capsule  or  saucer  containing  the  disinfectant  float  on 
the  surface  of  the  warm  water.     The  mixture  in  the  float- 

[377] 


378         OUR  HOMES  AND  THE  IB  ADORNMENTS. 

ing  capsule  or  saucer  will  evaporate  by  the  heat  of  the  water, 
and  the  vapor  will  effectively  disinfect.  Do  n't  try  to  evap- 
orate it  on  a  stove,  over  a  lamp,  or  by  a  fire ;  mischief  would 
result.  Use  exactly  warm  water  to  effect  evaporation  and 
nothing  else.  Use  only  porcelain  to  hold  the  mixture,  for  it 
will  corrode  metal.  It  will  also  spoil  a  good  spoon.  Label 
the  bottle  "poison,"  for  it  would  be  very  dangerous  to  take 
it  instead  of  medicine.  The  chemist  will  perceive  that  the 
disinfecting  vapor  evolved  is  nitrate  of  ethyl.  The  alcohol 
is  in  excess  and  so  saturates  the  acid  products  of  the  reac- 
tion that  they  are  not  disagreeable,  while  they  are  equally 
effective. 

The  material,  in  the  quantity  necessary  to  use,  is  very 
cheap,  and  the  method  of  using  it,  when  clearly  understood, 
is  very  simple.  The  vapor  evolved,  while  inoffensive,  de- 
stroys infected  dust  and  germs  of  putrefaction  floating  in 
the  air  of  a  sick-room.  It  is  excellent  for  hospitals  and 
public  buildings;  only,  in  large  spaces,  the  quantity  used 
should  be  divided  and  evaporated  in  different  parts  of  the 
room.     It  is  sufficient  to  use  it  once  a  day. 

Hygienists  are  indebted  to  a  French  scientist,  M.  Ley- 
russon,  for  this  ingenious,  cheap,  and  simple  method  of  dis- 
infecting sick-rooms,  without  danger  or  even  annoyance  to 
the  inmates.     It  has  been  very  recently  published  in  France. 

The  Best  Deodorizer. — Use  bromo-chloralum  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  to  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  soft  water ;  dip  cloths 
in  this  solution  and  hang  in  the  rooms;  it  will  purify  sick- 
rooms of  any  foul  smells.  The  surface  of  anything  may  be 
purified. by  washing  well  and  then  rubbing  over  with  a 
weakened  solution  of  bromo-chloralum.  A  weak  solution  is 
excellent  to  rinse  the  mouth  with   often,  when  from  any 


HINTS  ON  HEALTH.  379 

cause  the  breath  is  offensive.  It  is  also  an  excellent  wash 
for  sores  and  wounds  that  have  an  offensive  odor. 

Lime-Water. — One  of  the  most  useful  agents  of  house- 
hold economy,  if  rightly  understood,  is  lime-water.  Its 
mode  of  preparation  is  as  follows:  Put  a  stone  of  fresh  un- 
slacked  lime  about  the  size  of  a  half-peck  measure  into  a 
large  stone  jar  or  unpainted  pail,  and  pour  over  it  slowly 
and  carefully  (so  as  not  to  slacken  too  rapidly),  a  tea-kettle 
full  (four  gallons),  of  hot  water,  and  stir  thoroughly;  let  it 
settle,  and  then  stir  again  two  or  three  times  in  twenty-four 
hours.  Then  carefully  bottle  all  that  can  be  poured  off  in 
a  clear  and  limpid  state. 

It  is  often  sold  by  druggists  as  a  remedy  for  children's 
summer  complaints,  a  tea-spoonful  being  a  dose  in  a  cup  of 
milk,  and  when  diarrhea  is  caused  by  acidity  of  the  stomach, 
it  is  an  excellent  remedy,  and  when  ptit  into  milk  gives  no 
unpleasant  taste,  but  rather  improves  the  flavor.  It  may 
also  be  put  into  milk  that  is  to  be  used  for  puddings  and 
and  pies,  to  prevent  its  curdling.  A  little  stirred  into  cream 
or  milk,  after  a  hot  day  or  night,  will  prevent  its  turning 
when  used  for  tea  or  coffee. 

It  is  unequaled  in  cleansing  bottles  or  small  milk-vessels, 
or  babies'  nursing  bottles,  as  it  sweetens  and  purifies  with- 
out leaving  an  unpleasant  odor  or  flavor.  A  cupful,  or  even 
more,  mixed  in  the  sponge  of  bread  or  cakes  made  over 
night,  will  prevent  souring. 


-g=rl?pg><g?a^=£ 


380         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Preserving  Autumn  Leaves. — These  may  be  easily  pre- 
served and  retain  their  natural  tints,  or  nearly  so,  by  either 
of  the  following  methods: — 

As  they  are  gathered  they  may  be  laid  between  the 
leaves  of  a  magazine  or  large  book  until  it  is  full,  and  left 
with  a  light  weight  upon  them  until  the  moisture  in  the 
leaves  has  been  absorbed.  Two  or  three  thicknesses  of  paper 
should  intervene  between  the  leaves.  If  they  are  large  or 
in  clusters,  take  newspapers,  lay  them  on  a  shelf,  and  use 
them  as  with  a  book. 

When  the  leaves  have  become  perfectly  dry,  dip  them  in 
melted  white  wax  into  which  you  have  put  a  few  drops  of 
turpentine,  and  lay  them  on  clean  papers  to  dry ;  this  will 
make  the  leaves  pliable  and  natural,  and  give  them  suffi- 
cient gloss.  Great  care  should  be  used  to  make  the  wax 
just  hot  enough,  the  temperature  being  ascertained  by  the 
first  leaf  dipped  in.  Draw  it  gently  out  of  the  wax  and 
hold  it  up, — if  the  wax  is  too  hot,  the  leaf  will  shrivel ;  if  too 
cool,  the  wax  will  adhere  in  lumps.  Leaves  preserved  in 
this  way  make  chaste  and  attractive  ornaments,  if  grouped 
in  graceful  figures. 

Skeletonizing  Leaves. — For  the  leaves,  maple  ones  and 
those  that  have  a  pretty  shape  are  the  best:  To  one  pound 
of  soda-ash  add  two  quarts  of  soft  water.  After  it  is  all 
dissolved  by  boiling,  add  as  many  leaves  as  your  dish  will 
hold;  lay  them  in  flat,  boil  until  the  epidermis  will  come  off 
easily.  Try  a  leaf  in  cold  water,  and  if  only  the  veins 
remain  they  are  done  sufficiently.     Clean  them  with  an  old 


HINTS  ON  HOME  DECORATION.  381 

tooth-brush,  and  supply  the  missing  stems  with  fine  wire. 
After  they  are  well  cleaned  put  them  in  a  solution  of  chlo- 
ride of  lime  to  bleach,  ten  cents'  worth  of  lime  is  enough 
for  leaves  and  ferns  too.  Gather  the  young  ferns  and  put 
them  in  the  solution  of  lime  you  have  for  your  leaves,  not 
the  soda-ash,  only  the  bleaching  solution.  Float  them  on 
stiff  paper  and  put  them  in  books  to  dry,  after  washing 
thoroughly  in  clear  water  to  prevent  them  from  turning 
yellow.  Poppy-heads  are  very  fine,  also  Molven  balm  fixed 
in  this  way  is  lovely  for  winter  bouquets.  Add  more 
water  to  the  leaves  as  it  boils  away. 

For  Ci^ystallizing  Grass. — Ladies  who  admire  beautiful 
bouquets  of  grasses,  will  appreciate  the  following  recipe: — 

Take  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  rock  alum,  pour  on 
three  pints  of  boiling  water;  when  quite  cool  put  into  a 
wide-mouthed  vessel,  hang  in  your  grasses,  a  few  at  a  time. 
Do  not  let  them  get  too  heavy,  or  the  stems  will  not  support 
them.  You  may 'again  heat  alum  and  add  more  grasses. 
By  adding  a  little  coloring  matter  it  will  give  pleasing  vari- 
ety. 

To  Imitate  Ground-Glass  Windows. — Put  a  piece  of 
putty  weighing  about  six  ounces  into  a  muslin  bag  so  as  to 
form  a  smooth  surface.  After  thoroughly  cleaning  the 
glass,  pat  it  all  over  with  the  bag  of  putty,  which  being 
forced  out  through  the  muslin,  will  cover  the  glass.  Let 
this  dry  hard,  and  varnish  with  shellac  or  white  varnish. 
If  still  more  time  and  pains  are  taken,  the  glass  can  be 
made  to  represent  ground  glass  almost  perfectly.  Cut 
from  stiff  paper  any  graceful  geometric  or  other  pattern, 
paste  it  on  the  glass,  and  go  over  the  part  not  covered  by 
the  pattern,  as  above.     After  the  putty  is  dry,  remove  the 


26'2  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

pattern  and  paste  with  water.  This  plan  is  especially 
adapted  to  glass  in  doors. 

Ebonizing  Wood. — The  following  is  a  recipe  used  by 
furniture  manufacturers  for  the  now  popular  style  of  ebon- 
ized   wood:    Logwood   chips   8   oz.,   water   q.    s.,   copperas 

1  oz.  Boil  the  logwood  in  one  gallon  of  water  for  half  an 
hour,  and  add  the  copperas.  Apply  to  the  wood  hot,  giv- 
ing two  or  three  coats.  In  varnishing  ebonized  wood,  a 
little  drop  black  must  be  added,  or  the  varnish  will  give  a 
brown  shade. 

toilet   eftc^/i/pea. 

The  publishers  have  been  at  no  small  expense  in  secur- 
ing recipes  for  this  work,  and  can  assure  their  patrons  that 
they  have  all  been  tested  by  experience. 

The  toilet  recipes  have  been  furnished  by  a  druggist  of 
long  standing,  many  of  the  formulas  not  having  been  given 
the  public  before. 

The  Hair. 

Hair  Gloss. — Glycerine  6  oz.,  cologne  2  oz.  Mix  and 
use  to  moisten  the  hair. 

Hair  Oil. — Castor  oil  6  oz.,  cologne  spirits  or  alcohol 

2  oz.     Perfume  with  bergamont  or  other  desirable  perfume. 

Hair  Wash  for  Cleaning  the  Scalp. — Salts  of  Tartar  I 
oz.,  alcohol  £  of  a  pt.,  rain-water  1  pt.,  rose-water  |  pt.  Mix 
and  dissolve.     If  a  profuse  lather  is  desired,  add  more  tartar. 

Hair  Lotion,  To  Prevent  Hair  from  Falling  Out. — 
Rose-water  15  oz.,  glycerine  1  oz.,  aqua  ammonia  1  dr., 
tincture  of  cantharides  2  dr.     Mix,  and  use  once  a  week. 


TOILET  RECIPES.  383 

To  Clean  Hair-Brushes. — Use  spirits  of  ammonia  and 
hot  water;  wash  them  well  and  shake  the  water  out,  and 
they  will  be  white  and  clean.     Use  no  soap. 

To  Beautify  the  Hair. — 2  oz.  of  olive  oil,  4  oz.  of  good 
bay-rum,  and  1  dr.  of  the  oil  of  almonds.  Mix  and  shake 
well.     It  renders  the  hair  dark  and  smooth. 

The  Teeth. 

To  Beautify  the  Teeth. — Dissolve  2  oz.  of  borax  in  three 
pints  of  boiling  water,  and  before  it  is  cold  add  one  tea-spoon- 
ful of  spirits  of  camphor ;  bottle  it  for  use.  Use  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  this  with  an  equal  quantity  of  tepid  water. 

Tooth  Powder. — Precipitated  chalk  4  oz.,  orris  root  2  oz., 
rose  pink  \  dr.,  oil  of  cloves  4  drops,  oil  winter-green  \  dr. 
Rub  the  oils  with  the  powder,  sift,  and  the  powder  is  ready 
for  use.     It  should  be  kept  in  a  bottle. 

Tooth  Wash. — Diluted  alcohol  \  pint,  borax,  honey,  gum 
myrrh,  and  red  saunders,  each  |  oz.  Preparation. — Rub 
the  honey  and  borax  together  in  a  bowl  or  mortar,  and 
gradually  add  the  alcohol ;  add  the  myrrh  and  saunders,  and 
allow  the  whole  to  stand  fourteen  days,  when  it  may  be 
filtered  or  strained.  If  some  cologne  is  used  instead  of  the 
alcohol,  it  will  improve  the  wash. 

The  Face  and  Hands. 

Bloom  of  Roses. — Rose-water  8  oz.,  carmine,  No.  40,  1  dr., 
aqua  ammonia  h  oz.  Pulverize  the  carmine  to  a  fine  pow- 
der, add  the  aqua  ammonia ;  and  when  the  powder  is  en- 
tirely dissolved,  add  the  rose-water.  This  is  a  very  delicate 
and  harmless  cosmetic. 

Bloom  of  Youth. — Rose-water  1  pt.,  oxide  of  bismuth  4 


384         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

oz.     Powder  the  bismuth  and  agitate  with  the  rose-water. 
This  wash  can  be  colored  pink  by  adding  a  little  carmine. 

Violet  Powder. — Arrow  root  powdered,  or  wheat  starch, 
4  oz.,  powdered  orris  root  1  oz.,  oil  of  lemon  5  drops,  oil  of 
cloves  and  bergamot,  each  4  drops.  Stir  the  oils  with  the 
powder  until  thoroughly  mixed. 

Aromatic  Vinegar  for  the  hands  and  face. — Acetic  acid 
8  oz.,  oil  lavender  2  dr.,  oil  rosemary  1  dr.,  oil  cloves  1  dr., 
camphor  gum  1  oz.  Dissolve  the  camphor  in  the  acetic 
acid  and  add  the  oils.  After  remaining  for  a  few  days, 
strain,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Camphor  Ice. — \  oz.  each  of  camphor  gum  and  white 
wax,  spermaceti  and  sweet  oil ;  melt  slowly  the  hard  ingre- 
dients, and  then  add  the  oil. 

Cold  Cream. — 4  oz.  sweet  almond  oil,  2  oz.  rose-water 
2  oz.  white  wax,  2  oz.  cocoa  butter,  2  oz.  spermaceti;  put 
a  bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water;  cut  the  spermaceti, 
white  wax,  and  cocoa  butter  in  small  pieces;  put  them  in 
the  bowl,  also  the  oil  and  rose-water.  When  melted,  stir 
contents  until  cold. 

For  the  Hands. — |  oz.  of  glycerine  with  same  amount  of 
alcohol.  Mix,  and  add  4  oz.  of  rose-water.  Bottle,  and 
shake  well.  An  excellent  remedy  for  rough  or  chapped 
hands. 

To  Take  Stains  off  the  Skin. — For  cleaning  the  hands 
when  stained  with  chemicals:  Put  \  lb.  glauber  salts,  \  lb. 
chloride  of  lime,  and  4  oz.  of  water  into  a  small  wide- 
mouthed  bottle,  and  when  required  for  use  pour  some  of 
the  mixture  into  a  saucer  and  rub  it  well  over  the  hands 
with  a  brush  or  coarse  towl,  and  wash  them  in  warm  water. 

Acacia  Sachet. — Exquisite  and  cheap  perfume  for  the 
glove  box  or  drawer: — 


VARNISHES.  385 

Cassia  buds  and  orris  root,  2  oz.  of  each,  in  moderately 
fine  powder.     Sew  up  in  a  bag  of  silk. 

Pot-Pourri  Sachet  Powder. — Rose  and  lavender  leaves,  2 
oz„  each,  in  coarse  powder,  coarse  powdered  orris  root  1  oz., 
cloves,  cinnamon,  and  allspice,  each  \  oz.  Mix  well,  and 
put  into  bags  of  fancy  colored  silk,  or  into  envelopes. 

To  Varnish  Furniture. — First  make  the  work  quite 
clean ;  then  fill  up  all  knots  or  blemishes  with  cement  of  the 
same  color;  see  that  the  brush  is  clean,  and  free  from  loose 
hairs;  then  dip  the  brush  in  the  varnish,  stroke  it  along  the 
wire  raised  across  the  top  of  the  varnish  pot,  and  give  the 
work  a  thin  and  regular  coat;  soon  after  that  another,  and 
another,  always  taking  care  not  to  pass  the  brush  twice  in 
the  same  place;  let  it  stand  to  dry  in  a  moderately  warm 
place,  that  the  varnish  may  not  chill.  When  the  work  has 
had  about  six  or  seven  coats,  let  it  get  quite  hard  (which 
prove  by  pressing  the  knuckles  on  it;  if  it  leaves  a  mark,  it 
is  not  hard  enough) ;  then  with  the  first  three  fingers  of  the 
hand  rub  the  varnish  till  it  chafes,  and  proceed  over  that 
part  of  the  work  intended  to  be  polished,  in  order  to  take 
out  all  the  streaks  or  partial  lumps  made  by  the  brush ;  then 
give  it  another  coat,  and  let  it  stand  a  day  or  two  to  harden. 
Varnish  for  Common  Work.— This  varnish  is  intended 
for  protecting  surfaces  against  atmospheric  exposure.  It 
has  been  used  for  coating  wood  and  iron  work  with  great 
advantage.  Take  3  lbs.  of  resin  and  powder  it,  place  it  in 
a  tin  can,  and  add  2|  pints  of  spirits  of  turpentine,  shake 
well,  and  let  it  stand,  shaking  it  occasionally  for  a  day  or 

25 


386  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

two.  Then  add  5  qts.  of  boiled  oil,  shake  well  together, 
and  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  warm  room  till  clear.  The  clear 
portion  is  decanted  and  used,  or  reduced  with  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine until  of  the  proper  consistency. 

Table  Varnish. — Oil  of  turpentine  1  lb.,  beeswax  2 
oz.,  colophony  1  dr.  Or,  dammar  resin  1  lb.,  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine 2  lbs.,  camphor  200  grains.  Digest  the  mixture 
for  twenty-four  hours.  The  decanted  portion  is  fit  for  im- 
mediate use. 

Turpentine  Varnish. — To  1  pt.  of  spirits  of  turpentine 
add  10  oz.  clear  resin  pounded;  put  it  in  a  tin  can  on  a 
stove,  and  let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour.  When  the  resin  is  all 
dissolved,  let  it  cool,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Varnishes  for  Furniture. — Shellac  li  lbs.,  naphtha  1 
gal. ;  dissolve,  and  it  is  ready  without  filtering. 

Another  recipe  is,  shellac  12  oz.,  copal  3  oz.  (or  an  equiv- 
alent of  varnish) ;  dissolve  in  1  gallon  of  naphtha. 

Common  Varnish. — Digest  shellac  1  part,  with  alcohol 
7  or  8  parts. 

White  Furniture  Varnish. — White-wax  6  oz.,  oil  of 
turpentine  1  pint  ;  dissolve  by  gentle  heat,  taking  care  not 
to  set  the  turpentine  on  fire.     Apply  in  usual  way. 

Furniture  Polish. — Melt  three  or  four  pieces  of  sanda- 
rach,  each  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  add  1  pint  of  boiled  oil, 
and  boil  together  for  1  hour.  While  cooling  add  1  dr.  of 
Venice  turpentine,  and  if  too  thick  a  little  oil  of  turpentine 
also.  Apply  this  all  over  the  furniture,  and  after  some 
hours  rub  it  off ;  rub  the  furniture  daily,  without  applying 
fresh  varnish,  except  about  once  in  two  months.  Water 
does  not  injure  this  polish,  and  any  stain  or  scratch  may  be 
again  covered,  which  cannot  be  done  with  French  polish. 


VARNISHES  AND  POLISH.  387 

French  Polish. — Gum  shellac  2  oz.,  gum  arabic  h  oz., 
gum  copal  \  oz.  Powder,  and  .sift  through  a  piece  of  mus- 
lin ;  put  them  in  a  closely  corked  bottle  with  2  pts.  spirits  of 
wine,  in  a  very  warm  situation,  shaking  every  day  till  the 
gums  are  dissolved;  then  strain  through  muslin  and  cork 
for  use. 

Varnish  for  Water-proof  Goods. — Let  a  £  lb.  of  India- 
rubber,  in  small  pieces,  soften  in  \  lb.  of  oil  of  turpentine, 
then  add  2  lbs.  of  boiled  oil,  and  boil  for  2  hours  over  a  slow 
fire.  "When  dissolved,  add  6  lbs.  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  and  1 
lb.  of  litharge,  and  boil  until  an  even  liquid  is  obtained. 
Apply  warm. 

Varnish  for  Boots  and  Shoes. — Take  a  pint  of  linseed 
oil,  with  £  lb.  of  mutton  suet,  the  same  quantity  of  bees- wax, 
and  a  small  piece  of  resin.  Boil  all  this  in  a  pipkin  together, 
and  use  it  when  milk- warm  with  a  hair  brush ;  two  appli- 
cations will  make  the  articles  water-proof. 

Beautiful  Bronze,  Applicable  to  all  Metals. — Take  10 
parts  aniline  red  (fuchsine),  and  5  of  aniline  purple,  and 
dissolve  in  100  parts  of  95  per  cent  alcohol,  taking  care  to 
help  the  solution  by  placing  the  vessel  in  a  sand  or  water 
bath.  As  soon  as  the  solution  is  effected,  5  parts  of  benzole 
acid  are  added,  and  the  whole  is  boiled  from  5  to  10  min- 
utes until  the  greenish  color  of  the  mixture  is  transformed 
into  a  fine  light-colored  brilliant  bronze.  Apply  with  a 
brush. 

Golden  Varnish. — Pulverize  1  drachm  of  saffron  and  £ 
drachm  of  dragon's  blood,  and  put  them  into  1  pint  spirits 
of  wine.  Add  2  oz.  of  gum  shellac  and  5  drachms  of  soco- 
trine  aloes.  Dissolve  the  whole  by  gentle  heat.  Yellow 
painted  work,  varnished  with  this  mixture,  will  appear  al- 
most equal  to  gold. 


388  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Varnish  for  Iron-work. — Dissolve,  in  about  2  lbs.  of  tar 
oil,  \  lb.  of  asphaltum,  and  a  like  quantity  of  pounded  resin, 
mix  hot  in  an  iron  kettle,  care  being  taken  to  prevent  any 
contact  with  the  flame.  When  cold,  the  varnish  is  ready 
for  use.     This  varnish  is  for  out-door  wood  and  iron  work. 

Imitation  Nickel  Plating. — Coarse  rasped  granulated 
zinc  is  boiled  for  some  time  in  a  mixture  of  3  parts  by 
weight  of  sal  ammoniac,  and  10  of  water,  the  objects  im- 
mersed and  stirred  up  with  a  zinc  rod.  The  deposit  is  sil- 
very bright,  and  resists  mechanical  action  as  well  as  a  coat- 
ing of  nickel.  The  process  can  be  recommended  for  goods 
which  are  meant  for  a  second  coating  of  some  other  metal, 
since  any  other  is  easily  deposited  on  zinc. 

Interesting  to  Nicftel  Platers.  —  A  simple  process  of 
nickel  plating  by  boiling  has  been  described  by  Dr.  Kaiser. 
A  bath  of  pure  granulated  tin  tartar  and  water  is  prepared, 
and  after  being  heated  to  the  boiling  point,  has  added  to  it 
a  small  quantity  of  pure  red-hot  nickel  oxide.  A  portion 
of  the  nickel  will  soon  dissolve  and  give  a  green  color  to  the 
liquid  over  the  grains  of  tin.  Articles  pf  copper  or  brass 
plunged  into  this  bath  acquire  in  a  few  minutes  a  bright 
metallic  coating  of  almost  pure  nickel.  If  a  little  carbonate 
or  tartrate  of  cobalt  is  added  to  the  bath,  a  bluish  shade, 
either  light  or  dark,  may  be  given  to  the  coating,  which  be- 
comes very  brilliant  when  it  is  properly  polished  with  chalk 
or  dry  sawdust. 

After  the  ground  is  fairly  closed  up  by  frost  for  the  winter, 
it  will  be  an  excellent  time  to  paint  the  house,  barn,  and  other 
farm  buildings,  and  all  the  farm  implements  and  carriages 


REPAINTING  CARRIAGES.  389 

that  need  it.  Paint  spread  at  this  season  of  the  year  makes 
a  durable  covering,  and  there  are  no  flies  or  other  insects  to 
spoildts  looks  after  being  spread,  as  during  the  hot  days  of 
summer. 

If  the  carriages  and  farm  implements  can  be  stored  in  a 
clean  apartment,  free  from  wind  and  dust,  painting  may  go 
on  uninterruptedly  by  doing  the  outside  work  in  fair 
weather  and  the  carriage  work  during  rainy  days. 

Repainting  Carriages. — Previous  to  repainting  or  re- 
varnishing  any  old  coach-work,  it  is  necessary  first  to  wash 
the  work  quite  clean,  and  also  to  rub  down  the  surface  with 
a  wet  cloth  and  ground  pumice  powder,  until  it  appears 
quite  dead,  or  without  gloss.  The  work  should  then  be 
washed,  and  dried  with  a  wash-leather;  after  which  it  is  fit 
to  receive  either  paint  or  varnish.  Old  work  is  frequently 
dirty,  greasy,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  various  exha- 
lations, very  injurious  to  paint- work  and  varnish,  from  its 
being  kept  shut  up  in  cold,  damp  coach-houses,  which  have 
often  doors  or  passages  communicating  with  stables,  latrines, 
and  so  on.  If  therefore  it  be  repainted  or  revarnished,  with- 
out having  been  well  washed  and  rubbed  down,  it  seldom  or 
never  dries  properly,  owing  to  the  exhalations  with  which 
the  surface  is  in  general  incrusted ;  and  should  the  surface 
be  even  clear  from  grease,  no  paint  or  varnish  will  adhere, 
or  can  be  well  applied,  on  the  old  glossy  surface,  without  its 
having  been  first  rubbed  down  with  the  pumice  powder  and 
water,  as  that  entirely  removes  all  stains,  grease,  and  gloss 
from  the  surface.  Paint  or  varnish  will  then  adhere  to  the 
old  ground,  and  can  be  easily  worked  and  extended  with 
the  brush,  without  the  color  cissing,  as  it  is  termed.  Var- 
nish is  very  apt  to  ciss  on  old  work,  if  the  second  coat  is  not 


390  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

applied  as  soon  as  the  first  coat  is  hard  enough  to  bear 
varnishing. 

Economical  Paint. — Skim-milk  2  qts.,  fresh-slacked 
lime  8  oz.,  linseed  oil  6  oz.,  white  Burgundy  pitch  2  oz., 
Spanish  white  3  lbs.  The  lime  to  be  slaked  in  water  ex- 
posed to  the  air,  mixed  in  one-fourth  of  the  milk ;  the  oil  in 
which  the  pitch  is  previously  dissolved,  to  be  added  a  little 
at  a  time;  then  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and  afterward  the 
Spanish  white.  This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  27  sq.  yds., 
two  coats. 

To  Remove  Old  Paint. — Wet  the  place  with  naphtha, 
repeating  as  often  as  is  required;  but  frequently  one  appli- 
cation will  dissolve  the  paint.  As  soon  as  it  is  softened,  rub 
the  surface  clean.  Chloroform,  mixed  with  a  small  quan- 
tity of  spirit  ammonia,  composed  of  strong  ammoniac,  has 
been  employed  very  successfully  to  remove  the  stains  of  dry 
paint  from  wood,  silk,  and  other  substances. 

To  Destroy  Paint. — Mix  1  part  by  weight  of  potash 
with  3  parts  quick-lime,  by  slaking  the  lime  in  water  and 
then  adding  the  potash,  making  the  mixture  about  the  con- 
sistency of  paint.  Lay  the  above  over  the  whole  of  the 
work  required  to  be  cleaned,  with  an  old  brush ;  let  it  re- 
main 14  or  16  hours,  when  the  paint  can  be  easily  scraped 
off. 

Fire-proofing  Shingle  Roofs. — A  wash  composed  of  lime, 
salt,  and  fine  sand  or  wood-ashes,  put  on  in  the  ordinary 
way  of  whitewash,  renders  a  shingle  roof  fifty-fold  more  safe 
against  fire  from  falling  cinders,  in  case  of  fire  in  the  vi- 
cinity. It  has  also  a  preserving  influence  against  the  effect 
of  the  weather;  the  older  and  more  weather-beaten  the 
shingles,  the  more  benefit  derived.     Such  shingles  are  gen- 


DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  PAINT.  301 

erally  more  or  less  warped,  rough,  and  cracked.  The  appli- 
cation of  wash,  by  washing  the  upper  surface,  restores  them 
to  their  original  or  firm  form,  thereby  closing  the  space  be- 
tween the  shingles ;  and  the  lime  and  sand,  by  filling  up  the 
cracks,  prevent  its  warping.  By  the  addition  of  a  small 
quantity  of  lamp-black,  the  wash  may  be  made  of  the  same 
color  as  old  shingles,  and  thus  the  offensive  glare  of  a  white- 
washed roof  is  removed. 

Paint  for  Blackboards  in  Schools. — Common  glue  4 
oz.,  flour  of  emery  3  oz.,  and  just  lamp-black  enough  to 
give  an  inky  color  to  the  preparation.  Dissolve  the  glue  in 
|  qt.  of  warm  water,  put  in  the  lamp-black  and  emery,  stir 
till  there  are  no  lumps,  then  apply  to  the  board  with  a 
woolen  rag  smoothly  rolled.    Three  coats  are  amply  sufficient. 

Compound,  Fire-proof  Iron  Paint. — Finely  pulverized 
iron  fillings  1  part,  brick-dust  1  part,  and  ashes  1  part. 
Pour  over  them  glue-water  or  size,  set  the  whole  near  the 
fire,  and  when  warm,  stir  them  well  together.  With  this 
paint  cover  all  the  wood- work  which  may  be  in  danger; 
when  dry,  give  a  second  coat,  and  the  wood  will  be  rendered 
incombustible. 

Remedy  for  Damp  Walls. — f  lb.  of  mottled  soap  to  1 
gal.  of  water.  This  composition  to  be  laid  over  the  brick- 
work steadily  and  carefully  with  a  large  flat  brush,  so  as 
not  to  form  a  froth  or  lather  on  the  surface.  The  wash  should 
remain  24  hours,  to  become  dry.  Mix  \  lb.  of  alum  with 
4  gals,  of  water,  leave  it  to  stand  for  24  hours,  and  then 
apply  it  in  the  same  manner  over  the  coating  of  soap.  Let 
this  be  done  in  dry  weather. 

Darkening  Glass.—  The  following,  if  neatly  done,  ren- 
ders the  glass  obscure  yet  diaphanous:    Rub  up,  as  for  oil- 


392  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

colors,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sugar  of  lead  with  a  little 
boiled  linseed  oil,  and  distribute  this  uniformly  over  the 
pane,  from  the  end  of  a  hog-hair  tool,  by  a  dabbing,  jerking 
motion,  until  the  appearance  of  ground  glass  is  obtained. 
It  may  be  ornamented,  when  perfectly  hard,  by  delineating 
the  pattern  with  a  strong  solution  of  caustic  potash,  giving 
it  such  time  to  act  as  experience  dictates,  and  then  expedi- 
tiously wiping  out  the  portion  it  is  necessary  to  remove. 

To  Prevent  Iron  Rusting. — Give  it  a  coat  of  linseed 
oil  and  whiting,  mixed  together  in  the  form  of  a  paste.  It 
is  easily  removed  and  will  preserve  iron  from  rusting  for 
years. 


S-tkM444/H<*      ^iVoob^. 


There  is  little  trouble  in  preparing  the   stain,   and  its 
application  differs  but  slightly  from  painting. 

.,  Directions  for  Staining. — In  preparing  any  of  the 
tinctures,  it  is  of  importance  to  powder  or  mash  all  the  dry 
stuffs  previous  to  dissolving  or  macerating  them,  and  to 
purify  all  the  liquids  by  filtration  before  use.  It  will  be 
better  for  inexperienced  hands  to  coat  twice  or  three  times 
with  a  weak  stain  than  only  once  with  a  very  strong  one, 
as  by  adopting  the  first  mode  a  particular  tint  may  be  grad- 
ually effected,  whereas,  by  pursuing  the  latter  course,  an 
irremediable  discolorization  may  be  the  result.  Coarse 
pieces  of  carving,  spongy  end,  and  cross-grained  woods, 
should  be  previously  prepared  for  the  reception  of  stain; 
this  is  best  done  by  putting  on  a  thin  layer  of  varnish, 
letting  it  dry,  and  then  sand-papering  it  completely  off 
*>gain.     Fine  work  merely  requires  to  be  oiled  and  slightly 


STAINING  WOODS.  393 

rubbed  with  the  finest  sand-paper.  Thus  prepared,  the 
woody  fiber  is  enabled  to  take  on  the  stain  more  regularly, 
and  to  attain  a  high  degree  of  smoothness.  Stains  may  be 
applied  with  a  good  brush  or  with  a  woolen  rag  or  sponge. 

To  Stain  Walnut. — Use  burnt  umber  and  linseed  oil, 
apply  with  a  brush,  and  when  dry  sand-paper  again  and 
apply  more  stain.  When  the  desired  stain  is  made,  varnish. 
A  quick  stain  may  be  made  by  using  water  or  thin  glue  in- 
stead of  oil.     This  stain  is  not  durable. 

Another. — Water  1  qt.,  washing  soda  1|  oz.,  Vandyke 
brown  2|  oz.,  bichromate  of  potash  \  oz.  Boil  for  10 
minutes,  and  apply  with  a  brush,  in  either  a  hot  or  cold  stain. 

Black  Stain. — Boil  1  lb.  of  logwood  in  4  qts.  of  water, 
add  a  double  handful  of  walnut  peel  or  shells ;  boil  it  up 
again,  take  out  the  chips,  add  a  pint  of  the  best  vinegar, 
and  it  will  be  fit  for  use ;  apply  it  boiling.  This  will  be 
improved,  if,  when  dry,  a  solution  of  green  copperas,  an 
ounce  to  a  quart  of  water,  is  applied  hot  over  the  first  stain. 

Black  Stains  for  Immediate  Use. — Boil  \  lb.  of  chip 
logwood  in  2  qts.  of  water,  add  1  oz.  of  pearlash,  and  apply  it 
hot  to  the  work  with  a  brush.  Then  take  |  lb.  of  logwood, 
boil  it  as  before  in  2  qts.  of  water,  and  add  \  oz.  of  verdigris 
and  \  oz.  of  copperas ;  strain  it  off,  put  in  \  lb.  of  rusty  steel 
filings ;  with  this  go  over  the  work  a  second  time. 

Ebony  Stains. — Stain  work  with  the  black  stain,  adding 
powdered  nutgall  to  the  logwood  and  copperas  solution,  dry, 
rub  down  well,  oil,  then  use  French  polish  made  tolerably 
dark  with  indigo,  or  finely-powdered  stone-blue. 

Cherry  Stain. — Soft  water  3  qts.,  annotto  4  oz. ;  boil 
in  a  copper  kettle  till  the  annotto  is  dissolved,  put  in  a  piece 
of  potash  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  simmer  over  the  fire  about 
half  an  hour  longer,  and  it  is  ready  to  bottle  for  use. 


394  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


To  Clean  Pearls. — Soak  them  in  hot  water  in  which 
bran  has  been  boiled,  with  a  little  salts  of  tartar  and  alum, 
rubbing  gently  between  the  hands,  when  the  heat  will  admit 
of  it;  when  the  water  is  cold,  renew  the  application  till  any 
discoloration  is  removed ;  rinse  in  warm  water.  Lay  them 
on  white  paper  in  a  dark  place  to  cool. 

To  Clean  Marble,  Etc. — Mix  up  a  quantity  of  the 
strongest  soap-lees  with  quick-lime,  to  the  consistency  of 
milk,  and  lay  it  on  the  stone  for  twenty-four  hours.  Clean 
it,  and  it  will  appear  as  new.  This  may  be  improved  by 
rubbing  afterward  with  fine  putty  powder  on  olive-oil. 

To  Clean  Oil-Paintings. — Wash  with  a  sponge  or  a 
soft  leather  and  water,  and  dry  with  a  silk  handkerchief. 
"When  the  picture  is  very  dirty,  take  it  out  of  its  frame,  pro- 
cure a  clean  towel,  and  making  it  quite  wet,  lay  it  on  the 
face  of  the  picture,  sprinkling  it  from  time  to  time  with 
clear,  soft  water.  Let  it  remain  wet  for  two  or  three  days. 
Take  the  cloth  off  and  renew  it  with  a  fresh  one.  After 
wiping  the  picture  with  a  clean  wet  sponge,  repeat  the  proc- 
ess till  all  the  dirt  is  soaked  out;  then  wash  it  well  with  a 
soft  sponge,  let  it  become  quite  dry,  and  rub  it  with  some 
clear  nut  or  linseed  oil.  Spirits  of  wine  and  turpentine  may 
be  used  to  dissolve  the  hard  old  varnish,  but  they  will  attack 
the  paint  as  well  as  the  varnish  if  the  further  action  of  the 
spirits  is  not  stopped  at  the  proper  time  by  using  water  freely. 

To  Clean  Plate. — Take  an  ounce  each  of  cream  of 
tartar,  muriate  of  soda,  and  alum,  and  boil  in  a  gallon  or 
more  of   water.     After  the  plate  is  taken  out  and  rubbed 


CLEANING  AND  SCO  URING.  395 

dry,  it  puts  on  a  beautiful  silvery  whiteness.  Powdered 
magnesia  may  be  used  dry  for  articles  slightly  tarnished, 
but  if  very  dirty  it  must  be  used  first  wet  and  then  dry. 

To  Clean  Brass  or  Copper. — Take  1  oz.  of  oxalic  acid, 
6  oz.  rotten-stone,  £  oz.  gum  arabic,  all  in  powder,  1  oz. 
sweet  oil,  and  sufficient  water  to  make  a  paste.  Apply  a 
small  portion,  and  rub  dry  with  a  flannel  or  leather. 

Silver  Plate. — Mix  together  8  oz.  prepared  chalk,  2  oz. 
turpentine,  1  oz.  alcohol,  4  dr.  spirits  of  camphor,  and  2  dr. 
liquor  of  ammonia.  Apply  this  mixture  to  the  article 
with  a  sponge,  and  allow  to  dry  before  polishing. 

Silver  Cleaning  Liquid. — Prepared  chalk  8  oz.,  tur- 
pentine 2  oz.,  alcohol  1  oz.,  spirits  of  camphor  4  dr.,  liq- 
uor of  ammonia  2  dr.  Apply  with  a  sponge,  and  allow  to 
dry  before  polishing.  Or  use  a  solution  of  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium, 12  oz.  cyanide  to  1  qt.  water;  immerse  the  silver, 
brush  it  with  a  stiff  brush  until  clean,  wash  and  dry. 

Cleaning  Hats. — The  stains  of  grease  and  paint  may  be 
removed  from  fur  hats  by  means  of  turpentine;  and  if  the 
turpentine  leaves  a  mark,  finish  with  a  little  spirits  of  wine. 

Cleaning  Jewelry. — Common  jewelry  may  be  effectually 
cleaned  by  washing  with  soap  and  warm  water,  rinsing  in 
cold  water,  dipping  in  spirits  of  any  kind,  and  drying  in 
warm  boxwood  sawdust.  Good  jewelry  only  needs  wash- 
ing with  soap  and  water,  and  polishing  with  rouge  and  a 
chamois  leather. 

Cleaning  Engravings. — Put  the  engraving  on  a  smooth 
board,  cover  it  thinly  with  common  salt,  finely  pounded; 
squeeze  lemon -juice  upon  the  salt  so  as  to  dissolve  a  consid- 
erable portion  of  it ;  elevate  one  end  of  the  board,  so  that  it 
may  form  an  angle  of  about  45°  or  50°  with  the  horizon. 


396  OUB  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Pour  on  the  engraving  boiling  water  from  a  tea-kettle, 
until  the  salt  and  lemon -juice  are  all  washed  off;  the  engrav- 
ing will  then  be  perfectly  clean,  and  free  from  stains.  It 
must  be  dried  on  the  board,  or  on  some  smooth  surface, 
gradually.  If  dried  by  the  fire  or  the  sun,  it  will  be  tinged 
with  a  yellow  color. 

Polishing  Wood  Carving. — Take  a  piece  of  wadding, 
soft  and  pliable,  and  on  it  drop  a  few  drops  of  white  or  trans- 
parent polish  or  French  polish,  according  to  the  color  of  the 
wood.  Wrap  the  wetted  wadding  up  in  a  piece  of  old  linen, 
forming  it  into  a  pad ;  and  hold  it  by  the  surplus  linen ; 
then  touch  with  one  or  two  drops  of  linseed  oil.  Pass 
the  pad  gently  over  the  parts  to  be  polished,  working  it 
round  in  small  circles,  occasionally  re- wetting  the  wadding 
in  polish,  and  the  pad  with  a  drop  or  so  of  oil.  The  object 
of  the  oil  is  merely  to  cause  the  pad  to  run  over  the  wood 
easily  without  sticking,  therefore  as  little  as  possible  should 
be  used,  as  it  tends  to  deaden  the  polish  to  a  certain  extent. 

Where  a  carving  is  to  be  polished  after  having  been 
varnished,  the  same  process  is  necessary,  but  it  can  only  be 
applied  to  the  plainer  portions  of  the  work.  Plane  surfaces 
must  be  made  perfectly  smooth  with  glass  paper  before  pol- 
ishing, as  every  scratch  or  mark  will  show  twice  as  much 
after  the  operation.  When  the  polish  is  first  rubbed  on  the 
wood,  it  is  called  the  bodying  in;  it  will  sink  into  the  wood 
and  not  give  much  glaze.  It  must,  when  dry,  have  another 
body  rubbed  on,  and  a  third  generally  finishes  it;  but  if 
not,  the  operation  must  be  repeated.  Just  before  the  task 
is  completed,  greasy  smears  will  show  themselves ;  these  will 
disappear  by  continuing  the  gentle  rubbing  without  oiling 
the  pad. 


CLEANING  AND  SCOURING.  397 

Polishing  Mother-of- Pearl. — Go  over  it  with  puinice- 
stone  finely  powdered  and  washed  to  .separate  the  impurities 
and  dirt,  with  which  polish  it  very  smooth;  then  apply 
putty  powder  and  water  by  a  rubber,  which  will  produce  a 
fine  gloss  and  good  color. 

Floors. — Take  some  clean,  sifted,  white  or  silver  sand, 
and  scatter  it  on  the  floor.  Dissolve  one  pound  of  American 
potash  or  pearlash,  in  one  pint  of  water,  and  sprinkle  the 
sand  with  this  solution.  Have  a  pail  of  very  hot  water, 
and  scrub  the  boards  lengthwise  with  a  hard  brush, 
using  the  mottled  soap.  Change  the  water  frequently. 
This  is  the  best  way  to  scour  and  whiten  boards.  The  pot- 
ash, if  applied  as  directed,  will  take  out  all  stains. 

Ink  stains  may  be  removed  from  boards  by  using  either 
strong  vinegar  or  salts  of  lemon. 

Cleaning  House  Paint. — Old  paint-work  should  be 
first  well  dusted,  then  cleaned  by  washing  with  a  ley  of 
pearlash  and  water;  it  is  sometimes  necessary,  after  the 
washing,  to  give  a  coat  of  weak  size,  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
dry,  apply  varnish,  using  copal  for  light  work,  and  carriage 
for  dark.  Some  handrails,  doors,  and  so  on,  are  so  saturated 
with  grease,  that  no  washing  will  remove  it.  When  this  is 
the  case,  brush  the  fold  parts  over  with  strong  fresh-made 
lime- wash,  let  that  dry,  then  rub  it  off;  if  the  grease  is  not 
removed,  repeat  the  lime-washing,  until  the  grease  is  thor- 
oughly drawn  out;  wash  the  lime  off  clean,  and  afterward 
apply  the  sizing,  and  lastly  the  varnish. 

To  Wash  Silver  Ware. — Never  use  a  particle  of  soap  on 
your  silver  ware,  as  it  dulls  the  luster,  giving  the  article 
more  the  appearance  of  pewter  than  silver.  When  it  wants 
cleaning,  rub  it  with  a  piece  of  soft  leather  and  prepared 


398  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

chalk,  the  latter  made  into  a  kind  of  paste  with  pure  water, 
for  the  reason  that  water  not  pure  might  contain  gritty 
particles. 

Cleaning  Gilt  Frames. — Gilt  frames  may  be  cleaned 
by  simply  washing  them  with  a  small  sponge,  wet  with 
urine,  hot  spirits  of  wine,  or  oil  of  turpentine,  not  too 
wet,  but  sufficiently  to  take  off  the  dirt  and  fly  marks. 
They  should  not  be  afterward  wiped,  but  left  to  dry  of 
themselvas. 

Scouring  Articles  of  Dress. — Among  the  spots  which 
alter  the  color  fixed  upon  stuffs,  some  are  caused  by  a  sub- 
stance which  may  be  described  as  simple,  and  others  by  a  sub- 
stance which  results  from  the  combination  of  two  or  more 
bodies,  that  may  act  separately  or  together  upon  the  stuff, 
and  which  may  therefore  be  called  compound. 


C^eai44/vta    eFa&t/lco. 


Oils  and  fats  are  the  substances  which  form  the  greater 
part  of  simple  stains.  They  give  a  deep  shade  to  the  ground 
of  the  cloth ;  they  continue  to  spread  for  several  days ;  they 
attract  the  dust,  and  retain  it  so  strongly  that  it  is  not 
removable  by  the  brush;  and  they  eventually  render  the 
stain  lighter  colored,  upon  a  dark  ground,  and  of  a  dis- 
agreeable gray  tint  upon  a  pale  or  light  ground. 

The  general  principle  of  cleansing  all  spots  consists  in 
applying  to  them  a  substance  with  a  stronger  affinity  for 
the  matter  composing  them  than  this  has  for  the  cloth,  and 
which  shall  render  them  soluble  in  some  liquid  menstruum, 
such  as  water,  spirits,  naphtha,  or  oil  of  turpentine.  Alkalies 
are  the  most  powerful  solvents  of  grease ;  but  they  act  too 


REMOVING  STAINS.  309 

strongly  upon  silk  and  wool,  as  well  as  change  too  power- 
fully the  colors  of  dyed  stuffs,  to  be  safely  applicable  in  re- 
moving stains.  The  best  substances  for  this  purpose  are: 
1.  Soap.  2.  Chalk,  fuller's- earth,  soap-stone,  or  French  chalk. 
These  should  be  mixed  with  a  little  water,  made  into  a 
thin  paste,  spread  upon  the  stain,  and  allowed  to  dry.  The 
spot  requires  now  to  be  merely  brushed.  3.  The  volatile  oil  of 
turpentine  will  take  out  only  recent  stains;  for  which  pur- 
pose it  ought  to  be  previously  purified  by  distillation  over 
quick-lime.  Wax,  resin,  turpentine,  pitch,  and  all  resinous 
bodies  in  general,  form  stains  of  greater  or  less  adhesion, 
which  may  be  dissolved  out  by  pure  alcohol.  4.  Oxalic  acid 
removes  iron  rust  almost  instantly. 

A  stain  of  iron  rust  and  grease  requires  two  distinct 
operations,  one  to  remove  the  grease  and  the  other  the  rust, 
which  can  be  done  as  indicated  in  preceding  directions. 

Recent  Ink  Stains — may  be  removed  by  washing  in  pure 
water,  then  in  soapy  water,  and  lastly  with  lemon-juice;  but 
if  the  stain  be  old,  use  oxalic  acid,  which  may  be  applied  in 
powder,  well  rubbed  on,  and  washed  off  with  pure  water. 

Ox-gall  and  ydlk  of  egg  have  the  property  of  dissolving 
fatty  bodies  without  perceptibly  affecting  the  texture  or 
colors  of  cloth,  and  may  therefore  be  employed  with  ad- 
vantage. The  ox-gall  should  be  purified,  to  prevent  its 
greenish  tint  from  degrading  the  brilliancy  of  dyed  stuffs, 
or  the  purity  of  whites.  Thus  prepared  it  is  the  most  prec- 
ious of  all  substances  known  for  removing  these  kinds  of 
stains. 

Grease  from  Cloth. — Grease  can  be  removed  from  cloth 
by  a  paste  of  fuller's-earth  and  turpentine.  This  should  be 
rubbed  on  the  fabric  until  the  turpentine  has  evaporated  and 


400  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

a  white  powder  produced.     The  latter  can  be  brushed  off, 
and  the  grease  will  have  disappeared. 

Another. — Benzine,  alcohol,  ether,  equal  parts;  mix, 
apply  with  a  sponge  (patting  the  spot),  put  a  piece  of  blot- 
ting paper  on  each  side  and  iron  with  a  hot  flat-iron.  The 
ingredients  are  very  inflammable ;  use  great  care  not  to  take 
them  too  near  a  fire. 

To  Destroy  the  Effects  of  Acid  on  Clothes. — Dampen  as 
soon  as  possible,  after  exposure  to  the  acid,  with  spirits  of 
ammonia.     It  will  destroy  the  effect  immediately. 

Fruit  Stains. — First  rub  the  spot  on  each  side  with  hard 
soap,  and  then  lay  on  a  thick  mixture  of  starch  and  cold 
water.  Rub  this  mixture  of  starch  well  into  the  spot,  and 
afterward  expose  it  to  the  sun  and  air.  If  the  stain  has 
not  disappeared  at  the  end  of  three  or  four  days,  repeat  the 
process. 

Grease  Spots. — Dissolve  one  ounce  of  pearlash  in  one  pint 
of  water,  and  to  this  solution  add  a  lemon  cut  into  thin 
slices.  Mix  well,  and  keep  the  mixture  in  a  warm  state  for 
two  days,  then  strain  and  bottle  the  clear  liquid  for  use.  A 
small  quantity  of  this  mixture  poured  on  stains  occasioned 
by  either  grease,  oil,  or  pitch,  will  speedily  remove  them. 
Afterward  wash  in  clear  water. 

Ink  Stains. — Strain  the  linen  tightly  over  a  basin  con- 
taining boiling  water,  and  wet  the  stain  with  water.  Then 
carefully  let  fall  on  the  spot  a  few  drops  of  salts  of  lemon,  or 
diluted  spirits  of  salt;  use  for  this  purpose  a  feather,  or  small 
camel's-hair  pencil.  When  the  stain  has  been  removed, 
wash  carefully  in  cold  water. 

Iron-mold  stains  may  also  be  removed  by  this  method. 

To   Wash  Lace. — Cover  an  ordinary  wine   bottle  with 


TO  REVIVE  FURS  AND  RENOVATE  SILK.         4()1 

fine  flannel,  stitching  it  firmly  round  the  bottle.  Tack  one 
end  of  the  lace  to  the  flannel,  then  roll  it  very  smoothly 
round  the  bottle,  and  tack  down  the  other  end,  then  cover 
with  a  piece  of  very  fine  flannel  or  muslin.  Now  rub  it 
gently  with  a  strong  soap  liquor,  and  if  the  lace  is  very 
much  discolored  or  dirty,  fill  the  bottle  with  hot  water,  and 
place  it  in  a  kettle  or  saucepan  of  suds  and  boil  it  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  place  the  bottle  under  a  tap  of  running  water 
to  rinse  out  the  soap.  Make  some  strong  starch,  and  melt 
in  it  a  piece  of  white  wax  and  a  little  loaf  sugar.  Plunge 
the  bottle  two  or  three  times  into  this  and  squeeze  out  the 
superfluous  starch  with  the  hands;  then  dip  the  bottle  in 
cold  water,  remove  the  outer  covering  from  the  lace,  fill  the 
bottle  with  hot  water,  and  stand  it  in  the  sun  to  dry  the 
lace.  When  nearly  dry  take  it  very  carefully  off  the  bottle, 
and  pick  it  out  with  the  fingers.  Then  lay  it  in  a  cool  place 
to  dry  thoroughly. 

Reviving  Furs. — Thoroughly  sprinkle  every  part  with 
hot  flour  and  sand,  and  brush  well  with  a  hard  brush.  Then 
beat  with  a  cane,  comb  it  smooth  with  a  wet  comb,  and 
press  carefully  with  a  warm  iron.  For  ermine  use  plaster-of- 
Paris  instead  of  flour  and  sand,  and  treat  in  the  same  way. 

To  Renovate  Silk. — Potato-water  is  good  to  clean  all 
colors  and  kinds;  grate  the  potatoes  into  cold  spring  water, 
say  a  large  potato  to  every  quart  of  water,  of  which  five  or 
six  will  do  for  a  couple  of  dresses.  If  for  very  light  silk, 
pare  the  potatoes;  if  for  dark,  merely  wash  them  clean. 
The  pan  of  water  must  not  be  stirred  in  the  least  for  forty- 
eight  hours ;  then,  very  slowly  and  steadily  pour  off  the  clear 
liquor,  but  not  a  particle  of  the  sediment,  into  a  large  open 
vessel,  dip  the  pieces  of  silk  into  this  liquid  up  and  down  a 

26 


402  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

few  times,  without  creasing  them ;  then  wipe  them  on  a  flat 
table  with  a  clean  towel,  first  one  side,  then  the  other.  It 
is  as  well  to  hang  each  one  as  dipped  upon  a  line  to  allow 
the  drops  to  drain  off  a  little  before  wiping.  Have  a  damp 
cloth  to  cover  them  in  till  all  is  done ;  then  iron  one  way,  on 
the  soiled  side. 

To  Wash  Feathers.— Dissolve  four  ounces  of  white  soap 
in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water;  put  it  into  a  large  basin  or 
small  pan,  and  beat  to  a  strong  lather  with  a  wire  egg-beater 
or  a  small  bundle  of  birch  twigs;  use  while  warm.  Hold  the 
feather  by  the  quill  with  the  left  hand,  dip  it  into  the  soap 
liquor  and  squeeze  it  through  the  right  hand,  using  a  moderate 
degree  of  pressure.  Continue  this  operation  until  the  feather 
is  perfectly  clean  and  white,  using  a  second  lot  of  soap 
liquor  if  necessary.  Rinse  in  clean  hot  water  to  take  out 
the  soap,  and  afterward  in  cold  water  in  which  a  small 
quantity  of  blue  has  been  dissolved.  Shake  well,  and  dry 
before  a  moderate  fire,  shaking  it  occasionally  that  it  may 
look  full  and  soft  when  dried.  Before  it  is  quite  dry  curl 
each  fibre  separately  with  a  blunt  knife  or  ivory  paper- 
folder. 

To  Wash  Carpets. — Spread  the  carpet  where  you  can 
use  a  brush,  take  Irish  potatoes  and  scrape  them  into  a  pail 
or  tub  of  water  and  let  them  stand  over  night,  using  one 
peck  to  clean  a  large  carpet ;  two  pails  of  water  is  sufficient 
to  let  them  stand  in,  and  you  can  add  more  when  ready  to 
use ;  add  two  ounces  of  beef  gall  and  use  with  a  brush,  as  to 
scrub  a  floor;  the  particles  of  potato  will  help  cleanse,  and 
when  dry,  brush  with  a  broom  or  stiff  brush. 

Excellent  Family  Soap. — 1  box  concentrated  lye,  5 
lbs.    grease,    1    lb.    resin,   1-J-  gals,   soft  water;  make  in  an 


RECIPES  FOR  CEMENTS.  403 

iron  pot.  When  the  water  boils,  put  in  the  lye;  when 
this  is  dissolved,  add  the  grease ;  stir  till  all  Is  melted,  then 
add  one  pound  of  resin  gradually,  and  boil  for  an  hour  and 
a  half;  keep  stirring  with  a  stick,  and  add  hot  water  to  keep 
up  the  original  quantity,  pour  into  wet  tin  pans,  and  let  it 
sstand  for  twenty-four  hours.  Cut  into  bars,  and  keep  in  a 
dry,  warm  place  for  a  month. 

Washing  Fluid. — 9  table-spoonfuls  unslackcd  lime,  2  lbs. 
sal-soda,  4  qts.  water;  let  this  simmer  half  an  hour,  then 
bottle  up.     Take  a  small  tea-cupful  to  a  boiler  of  water. 

Another. — 1  lb.  sal-soda,  1  lb.  potash,  each  dissolved  in  1 
gal.  water  (separately) ;  mix  together  and  bottle. 

Cheap  Filter. — Take  a  common  flower-pot  as  large  as 
possible,  plug  the  hole  in  the  bottom  with  a  piece  of  sponge, 
then  put  a  layer  of  powdered  charcoal  about  an  inch  thick, 
the  same  of  clean  sand,  and  a  layer  of  small  stones  and  coarse 
gravel  about  two  inches  thick.  Set  the  pot  where  the  water 
can  drop  off  the  sponge,  and  pour  in  water  gently.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  water  will  find  its  way  through  the  sand  and 
charcoal  and  drop  into  the  vessel  placed  below,  clear  and 
free  from  impurities. 

How  to  Use  Cements. — Take  as  small  a  quantity  of  the 
cement  as  possible,  and  bring  the  cement  itself  into  intimate 
contact  with  the  surfaces  to  be  united.  If  glue  is  employed, 
the  surface  should  be  made  so  warm  that  the  melted  glue  is 
not  chilled  before  it  has  time  to  effect  a  thorough  adhesion. 
Cements  that  are  used  in  a  fused  state,  as  resin  or  shellac, 
will  not  adhere  unless  the  parts  to  be  joined  are  heated  to 


404  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  fusing  point  of  the  cement.  Sealing-wax,  or  ordinary 
electrical  cement,  is  a  good  agent  for  uniting  metal  to  glass 
or  stone,  provided  the  masses  to  be  united  are  made  so  hot 
as  to  fuse  the  cement,  but  if  the  cement  is  applied  to  them 
while  they  are  cold  it  will  not  stick  at  all.  This  fact  is  well 
known  to  the  itinerant  vendors  of  cement  for  uniting  earth- 
enware. By  heating  two  pieces  of  china  or  earthenware  so 
that 'they  will  fuse  shellac,  they  are  able  to  smear  them  with 
a  little  of  this  gum,  and  join  the  pieces  so  that  they  will 
rather  break  at  any  other  part  than  along  the  line  of  union. 

But  although  people  constantly  see  the  operation  per- 
formed, and  buy  liberally  of  the  cement,  it  will  be  found  in 
nine  cases  out  of  ten  that  the  cement  proves  worthless  in  the 
hands  of  the  purchasers,  simply  because  they  do  not  know 
how  to  use  it.  They  are  afraid  to  heat  a  delicate  glass  or 
porcelain  vessel  to  a  sufficient  degree,  or  they  are  apt  to  use 
too  much  of  the  material,  and  the  result  is  a  failure. 

Cement  for  Ivory  or  Mother-of- Pearl. — Dissolve  1  part 
of  isinglass  and  2  of  white  glue  in  30  parts  of  water,  strain 
and  evaporate  to  6  parts,  add  one-thirtieth  part  of  gum 
mastic,  dissolved  in  one-half  part  of  alcohol,  add  1  part 
of  white  zinc.     When  required  to  use,  warm  and  shake  up. 

Cement  for  Jet. — Shellac  is  generally  used  for  jet  arti- 
cles. The  broken  edges  should  be  heated  before  applying 
the  shellac.  Should  the  joint  be  in  sight,  it  will  be  rendered 
the  same  color  as  the  jet  itself  by  smoking  the  shellac  before 
applying  it. 

Cheap  India-Rubber  Cement, — Cut  virgin  or  native 
India-rubber  with  a  wet  knife  into  the  thinest  possible  slices, 
and  with  shears  divide  these  into  threads  as  fine  as  fine 
yarn.     Put  a  small  quantity  of  the  shreds,  (say  one- tenth 


EECIPES  FOB  CEMENTS.  405 

or  less  of  the  capacity  of  the  bottle),  into  a  wide-inouthed 
bottle,  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with  benzine  of  good 
quality  perfectly  free  from  oil.  The  rubber  will  swell  up 
almost  immediately,  and  in  a  few  days,  especially  if  often 
shaken,  assume  the  consistency  of  honey.  If  it  inclines  to 
remain  in  undissolved  masses,  more  benzine  must  be  added, 
but  if  too  thin  and  watery  it  needs  more  rubber.  A  piece 
of  solid  rubber  the  size  of  a  walnut  will  make  a  pint  of 
cement.  It  dries  in  a  few  minutes,  and  by  using  three  coats 
in  the  usual  manner,  will  unite  leather  straps,  patches,  rubber 
soles,  backs  of  books,  etc.,  with  exceeding  firmness. 

Cement  for  Petroleum  Lamps. — Boil  3  parts  of  resin 
with  1  part  of  caustic  soda  and  5  of  water.  The  composi- 
tion is  then  mixed  with  half  its  weight  of  plaster-of- Paris, 
and  sets  firmly  in  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  an  hour.  It 
is  of  great  adhesive  power,  not  permeable  to  petroleum,  a 
slow  conductor  of  heat,  and  but  superficially  attacked  by 
hot  water. 

Cement  to  Mend  Iron  Pots  and  Pans. — Take  2  parts 
of  sulphur,  and  1  part,  by  weight,  of  fine  black-lead,  put 
the  sulphur  in  an  old  iron  pan,  holding  it  over  the  fire  until 
it  begins  to  melt ;  then  add  the  lead,  stir  well  until  all  is 
mixed  and  melted,  then  pour  out  on  an  iron  plate,  or  smooth 
stone.  When  cool,  break  into  small  pieces.  A  sufficient 
quantity  of  this  compound  being  placed  upon  the  crack  of 
the  iron  pot  to  be  mended,  can  be  soldered  by  a  hot  iron  in 
the  same  way  a  tinsmith  solders  his  sheets.  If  there  is  a 
small  hole  in  the  pot,  drive  a  copper  rivet  into  it  and  then 
solder  over  it  with  this  cement. 

London  Cement. — Boil  a  piece  of  old  cheese  three  times 
in  water,  each  time  allowing  the  water  to  evaporate.     Take 


406         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

the  paste  thus  left  and  thoroughly  incorporate  with  dry 
quick-lime.  It  willl  mend  glass,  wood,  china,  etc.,  very 
effectually. 

Cement  for  Wood  Vessels  Required  to  be  Water- 
Tight. — Take  lime-clay  and  oxide  of  iron,  seperately  cal- 
cined and  reduced  to  fine  poAvder,  then  intimately  mixed, 
kept  in  a  close  vessel,  and  mixed  with  the  requisite  quantity 
of  water  when  used. 

Cement  for  Leather. — A  good  cement  for  splicing  leather 
for  straps  is  gutta-percha  dissolved  in  bisulphide  of  carbon, 
until  it  is  of  the,  thickness  of  molasses;  the  parts  to  be 
cemented  must  first  be  well  thinned  down,  then  pour  a  small 
quantity  of  the  cement  on  both  ends,  spreading  it  well  so  as 
to  fill  the  pores  of  the  leather,  warm  the  parts  over  a  fire  for 
about  half  a  minute,  apply  them  quickly  together  and  ham- 
mer well.  The  bottle  containing  the  cement  should  be 
tightly  corked  and  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

Marble  Cement. — Take  plaster-of-Paris  and  soak  it  in 
a  saturated  solution  of  alum,  then  bake  in  an  oven,  the  same 
as  gypsum  is  baked  to  make  it  plaster-of-Paris ;  after  which 
grind  the  mixture  to  powder.  It  is  then  used  as  wanted, 
being  mixed  up  with  water  like  plaster  and  applied.  It  sets 
into  a  very  hard  composition  capable  of  taking  a  very  high 
polish,  and  may  be  mixed  with  various  coloring  minerals  to 
produce  a  cement  of  any  color  capable  of  imitating  marble. 
This  cement  is  also  used  for  attaching  glass  to  metal. 

Chinese  Cement. — Finest  pale  orange  shellac,  broken 
small,  4  oz.,  rectified  spirit,  the  strongest,  3  oz.,  digest  to- 
gether in  a  corked  bottle  in  a  warm  place  until  dissolved ;  it 
should  have  the  consistency  of  molasses.  It  is  used  for  wood, 
glass,  ivory,  jewelry,  and  all  fancy  works. 


RECIPES  FOR  CEMENTS.  407 

Cements  for  Cracks  in  Wood. — Make  a  paste  of  slacked 
lime  1  part,  rye  meal  2  parts,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
linseed  oil.  Or,  dissolve  1  part  of  glue  in  16  parts  of  water, 
and  when  almost  cool,  stir  in  sawdust  and  prepared  chalk  a 
sufficient  quantity.  Or,  oil-varnish  thickened  with  a  mixt- 
ure of  equal  parts  of  white-lead,  red-lead,  litharge,  and 
chalk. 

To  Mend  China. — Take  a  very  thick  solution  of  gum 
arabic  in  water,  and  stir  into  it  plaster-of-Paris  until  the 
mixture  becomes  of  a  proper  consistency.  Apply  it  with  a 
brush  to  the  fractured  edges  of  the  china,  and  stick  them 
together.  In  three  days  the  articles  cannot  be  broken  in 
the  same  place.  The  whiteness  of  the  cement  renders  it 
doubly  valuable. 

Stone-Masons  Cement. — Clean  river  sand  20  lbs.,  lith- 
arge 2  lbs.,  quick-lime  1  lb.,  linseed  oil,  sufficient  to  form  a 
thin  paste.  This  cement  is  used  to  mend  broken  pieces 
of  stone,  and  after  a  time  it  becomes  exceedingly  hard  and 
strong.  A  similar  composition  has  been  used  to  coat  brick 
walls,  under  the  name  of  mastic. 

Fire- Proof  and  Water-Proof  Cement. — To  4  or  5  parts 
of  clay,  thoroughly  dried  and  pulverized,  add  2  parts  of  fine 
iron  filings  free  from  oxide,  1  part  of  peroxide  of  manganese,  \ 
part  of  sea  salt,  and  \  part  of  borax.  Mingle  these  thor- 
oughly and  render  them  as  fine  as  possible,  then  reduce 
them  to  a  thick  paste  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  water. 
It  must  be  used  immediately.  After  application,  it  should 
be  exposed  to  heat,  gradually  increasing  almost  to  a  white 
heat.  This  cement  is  very  hard,  and  presents  complete  re- 
sistance alike  to  a  red  heat  and  boiling  water. 

Another  Method. — To  equal  parts  of  sifted  peroxide  of 


408  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

manganese  and  well-pulverized  zinc  white,  add  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  commercial  soluble  glass  to  form  a  thin  paste. 
This  mixture,  when  used  immediately,  forms  a  cement  quite 
equal  in  hardness  and  resistance  to  that  obtained  by  the  first 
method. 

Armenian,  or  Jeweler's  Cement. — Dissolve  5  or  6  bits 
of  gum  mastic,  the  size  of  a  large  pea,  in  as  much  spirits  of 
wine  as  will  suffice  to  render  it  liquid;  in  a  separate  vessel 
dissolve  as  much  isinglass  (previously  softened  in  water, 
though  none  of  the  water  must  be  used)  in  rum,  or  other 
spirit,  as  will  make  a  2-oz.  phial  of  very  strong  glue,  add- 
ing two  small  pieces  of  gum  ammoniacum,  which  must  be 
rubbed  or  ground  till  they  are  dissolved ;  then  mix  the  whole 
with  a  sufficient  heat.  Keep  it  in  a  phial  closely  stopped, 
and  when  it  is  to  be  used,  set  the  phial  in  boiling  water. 
The  preceding  is  also  effectual  in  uniting  almost  all  sub- 
stances, even  glass,  to  polished  steel. 


9tt  i^cnUa.  14  eo  1 1  ■>    cHe 


C413CO. 


To  Renew  Manuscripts. — Take  a  hair  pencil  and  wash 
the  part  that  has  been  effaced  with  a  solution  of  pruasiate  of 
potash  and  water,  and  the  writing  will  again  appear  if  the 
paper  has  not  been  destroyed. 

Tracing  Paper. — 1.  Wash  very  thin  paper  with  the 
following  mixture:  Spirits  turpentine,  6  parts,  by  weight, 
resin  1  part,  boiled  nut  oil  1  part.  Apply  with  a  soft 
sponge. 

2.  Brush  over  one  side  of  a  good,  thin,  unsized  paper 
with  a  varnish  made  of  equal  parts  of  Canada  balsam  and 
turpentine.  If  required  to  take  water-color,  it  must  be 
washed  over  with  ox-gall  and  dried  before  being  used. 


MISCELLANEOUS  RECIPES.  409 

3.  Open  a  quire  of  double-crown  tissue  paper,  and  brush 
the  first  sheet  with  a  mixture  of  mastic  varnish  and  oil  of 
turpentine,  equal  parts;  proceed  with  each  sheet  similarly, 
and  dry  them  on  lines  by  hanging  them  up  singly.  As  the 
process  goes  on,  the  under  sheets  absorb  a  portion  of  the 
varnish,  and  require  less  than  if  single  sheets  were  brushed 
separately. 

Transfer  Paper — is  made  by  rubbing  white  paper  with 
a  composition  consisting  of  2  oz.  tallow,  \  oz.  powdered 
black-lead,  \  pint  linseed  oil,  and  sufficient  lamp-black  to 
make  it  of  the  consistency  of  cream.  These  should  be 
melted  together  and  rubbed  on  the  paper  while  hot.  When 
dry  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Alloy  for  Journal  Boxes. — Copper  3  lbs.,  tin  3  lbs., 
and  antimony  1  lb.  Melt  the  copper  first,  then  add  the  tin, 
and  lastly  the  antimony.  It  should  be  first  run  into  ingots, 
then  melted  and  cast  in  the  form  required  for  the  boxes. 

Amber,  to  Mend. — Smear  the  parts  which  are  to  be 
united  with  linseed  oil,  hold  the  oiled  part  carefully  over  a 
small  charcoal  fire,  a  hot  cinder,  or  a  gas-light,  being  care- 
ful to  cover  up  all  the  rest  of  the  object  loosely  with  paper; 
when  the  oiled  parts  have  begun  to  feel  the  heat,  so  as  to  be 
sticky,  pinch  or  press  them  together,  and  hold  them  so  till 
nearly  cold.  Only  that  part  where  the  edges  are  to  be 
united  must  be  warmed,  and  even  that  with  care,  lest  the 
form  or  polish  of  the  other  parts  should  be  disturbed ;  the 
part  joined  generally  requires  a  little  re-polishing. 

Bronzing  Wood. — The  wood  is  first  covered  with  a  uni- 
form coating  of  glue,  or  of  drying  oil,  and  when  nearly  dry 
the  bronze  powder,  contained  in  a  small  bag,  is  dusted  over 
it.     The  surface  of  the  object  is  afterward  rubbed  with  a 


410  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

piece  of  moist  rag,  or  the  bronze  powder  may  be  previously 
mixed  with  the  drying  oil,  and  applied  with  a  brush.  The 
bronze  powder  can  be  procured  at  almost  any  drug  store, 
and  at  some  paint  stores. 

To  Print  a  Picture  from  the  Print  Itself. — The  page 
or  picture  is  soaked  in  a  solution,  first  of  potassa,  and  then 
of  tartaric  acid.  This  produces  a  perfect  diffusion  of  crystals 
of  bitartarate  of  potassa  through  the  texture  of  the  unprinted 
part  of  the  paper.  As  this  salt  resists  oil,  the  ink  roller 
may  now  be  passed  over  the  surface,  without  transferring 
any  part  of  its  contents  except  to  the  printed  part. 

Hints  about  Screws. — Where  screws  are  driven  into 
soft  wood  and  subjected  to  considerable  strain,  they  are  very 
likely  to  work  loose,  and  it  is  often  difficult  to  make  them 
hold.  In  such  cases  the  use  of  glue  is  profitable.  Prepare 
the  glue  thick,  immerse  a  stick  about  half  the  size  of  the 
screw  and  put  it  into  the  hole,  then  immerse  the  screw,  and 
drive  it  home  as  quickly  as  possible.  When  there  is  an 
article  of  furniture  to  be  hastily  repaired,  and  no  glue  is  at 
hand,  bore  a  hole,  insert  the  stick,  fill  the  rest  of  the  cavity 
with  pulverized  resin,  then  heat  the  screw  sufficiently  to  melt 
the  resin  as  it  is  driven  in.  Where  screws  are  driven  into 
wood  for  temporary  purposes,  they  can  be  more  easily  re- 
moved by  dipping  them  in  oil  before  inserting.  When  buy- 
ing screws,  notice  that  the  heads  are  sound  and  well  cut, 
that  there  are  no  flaws  in  the  body  or  thread  part,  and  that 
they  have  gimlet  points.  A  screw  of  good  make  will  drive 
into  oak  as  easily  as  others  into  pine,  and  will  endure  having 
twice  the  force  brought  against  it. 

To  Make  Putty. — Mix  a  quantity  "of  whiting  into  a  very 
stiff  paste  with  linseed  oil,  rubbing  and  beating  it  well  before 


MISCELLANEOUS  HEGIPES.  411 

using.  For  particular  purposes,  as  for  fanlights,  iron-framed 
green-houses,  and  other  places  where  the  lap  or  hold  is  very 
narrow,  a  little  white-lead  may  be  added  to  advantage. 
Colored  putty  has  a  mixture  of  red  ochre,  lamp-black,  or 
other  color  with  the  whiting. 

To  Make  Sealing- Wax. — Red.  Take  1  lb.  of  yellow 
resin,  5^  oz.  of  gum  lac,  o£  oz.  of  Venice  turpentine,  and  1 
oz.  of  vermilion.  Melt  the  lac  in  a  copper  pan  suspended 
over  a  clear  fire,  add  the  resin,  pour  the  turpentine  slowly 
in,  and  soon  afterward  add  the  vermilion,  stirring  the  mixt- 
ure all  the  time.  Form  either  into  round  sticks  by  rolling 
it  out  on  a  smooth  stone  slab  by  means  of  a  wooden  board, 
or  into  oval  sticks  by  casting  it  into  stone  molds  made  in 
two  pieces. 

Black  sealing-wax  is  made  by  substituting  either  lamp- 
black or  ivory-black  in  the  above  recipe. 

Cleaning  Harness,  or  Saddles  and  Bridles. — If  harness, 
wash  it  perfectly  clean  with  warm  water  and  soft  soap,  and 
when  dry,  apply  neat's-foot  oil  and  black  dye,  mixed;  mix 
them  by  adding  a  small  quantity  of  salts  of  wormwood, 
when  they  will  be  well  blacked  and  pliable.  At  the  same 
time,  by  applying  the  oil  and  dye  to  the  bottom  or  under 
parts  of  the  straps,  and  composition  to  the  top,  they  will 
always  be  pliable,  and  have  a  good  polish  on  the  top.  If  a 
riding  saddle,  wash  in  cold  water  and  soft  soap  until  free 
from  dirt;  then  apply  soft  soap  with  a  woolen  cloth — about 
2  table-spoonfuls  would  be  enough  for  a  saddle — which  will 
dry  in.  If  the  saddle  is  to  have  a  yellow  appearance,  infuse 
a  few  cents'  worth  of  hay  saffron  in  about  four  or  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  and  apply  before  the  soft  soap,  then  rub 
on  a  piece  of  woolen  cloth,  or  a  brush,  a  piece  of  bees- wax. 


412         0*712  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

and  finish  the  saddle  off  with  it,  rubbing  till  a  good  polish  is 
obtained. 

Blacking  for  Harness. — 1.  Molasses  £  lb.,  lamb-black 

1  oz.,  yeast  a  spoonful,  sugar-candy,  olive  oil,  gum  traga- 
canth,  and  isinglass,  each  1  oz.,  and  a  cow's  gall.     Mix  with 

2  pts.  of  stale  beer,  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire  for  an 
hour. 

2.  Molasses  8  parts,  lamp-black  1,  sweet  oil  1,  gum 
arabic  1,  isinglass  1,  water  32.  Apply  heat  to  the  whole; 
when  cold,  add  1  oz.  spirits  of  wine,  and  apply  with  sponge. 
If  it  should  get  hard,  place  the  bottle  in  warm  water  a  short 
time. 

3.  Melt  1  lb.  bees-wax,  stir  in  4  oz.  ivory-black,  2  oz. 
spirits  turpentine,  2  oz.  Prussian  blue,  ground  in  oil,  and  | 
oz.  copal  varnish.  Make  into  balls.  With  a  brush  apply 
to  harness,  and  polish  with  silk  gently. 

Harness  Composition. — Put  into  a  glazed  pipkin  2  oz. 
of  black  resin,  place  it  on  a  gentle  fire ;  when  melted,  add  3 
oz.  of  bees-wax.  When  this  is  melted,  take  it  from  the  fire, 
add  \  oz.  of  fine  lamp-black,  and  \  dr.  of  Prussian  blue  in 
fine  powder;  stir  them  so  as  to  be  perfectly  mixed,  and  add 
sufficient  spirits  of  turpentine  to  form  a  thin  paste,  let  it 
cool.  To  use  it,  apply  a  coat  with  a  piece  of  linen  rag  pretty 
evenly  all  over  the  harness ;  then  take  a  soft  polishing  brush 
and  brush  it  over,  to  obtain  a  bright  surface. 

To  Destroy  Bed-Bugs,  Moths,  and  Other  Vermin. — 
Dissolve  alum  in  hot  water,  making  a  very  strong  solution; 
apply  to  furniture  or  crevices  in  the  walls  with  paint  brush. 
This  is  sure  destruction  to  those  noxious  vermin,  and  inval- 
uable because  easily  obtained,  is  perfectly  safe  to  use,  and 
leaves   no   unpleasant   traces   behind.     When   you  suspect 


BECIPKS  FOB  MAKING  INK.  413 

moths  have  lodged  in  the  borders  of  carpets,  wet  the  edges 
of  the  carpets  with  a  strong  solution ;  whenever  it  reaches 
them,  it  is  certain  death. 

Black  Ink,  Non-Corrosive. — Digest  in  an  open  vessel 
42  oz.  of  coarsely-powdered  nut-galls,  15  oz.  of  gum  Senegal, 
18  oz.  of  sulphate  of  iron,  copperas  free  from  copper,  3 
dr.  of  aqua  ammonia,  24  oz.  of  alcohol,  and  18  qts.  of  dis- 
tilled or  rain-water.  Continue  the  digestion  until  the  fluid 
has  assumed  a  deep  black  color.  To  make  less  quantity,  use 
less  of  each  ingredient,  but  in  the  same  proportion.  For 
cheap  inks  other  ingredients  may  be  substituted  instead  of 
part  of  the  galls;  logwood,  catechu,  sumac,  and  oak-bark 
may  be  used  for  the  same  purpose.  Many  other  substances, 
such  as  elm  wood,  elder,  chestnut,  beech,  willow,  plum, 
cherry,  and  poplar,  all  contain  a  certain  amount  of  astrin- 
gent properties,  but  none  of  them  are  to  be  compared  to 
galls,  and  are  not  likely  to  supercede  them  in  the  manufact- 
ure of  ink  so  long  as  galls  can  be  had  for  a  fair  price. 

A  Cheap  Invisible  Ink. — Dissolve  1  fluid  oz.  of  common 
oil  of  vitriol  in  a  pint  of  soft  water.  Stir  well  and  allow  it 
to  cool.  Write  with  a  clean  pen.  When  dry  it  will  be  in- 
visible, held  to  the  fire  it  turns  an  indellible  black. 

Green  Ink. — Verdigris  2  oz.,  cream  of  tartar  1  oz., 
water  \  pt.,  reduce  one-half  by  boiling,  and  filter,  using 
druggist's  filtering  paper. 

Blue  Ink.— Chinese  blue  2  oz.,  boiling  water  1  qt.,  oxalic 
acid  1  oz.  Dissolve  the  blue  in  the  water,  then  add  the  acid, 
and  it  is  ready  at  once. 

Soap-Bubbles. — Few  things  amuse  children  more  than 
blowing  bubbles.  Dissolve  \  of  an  oz.  of  castile  or  oil  soap, 
cut  up  in  small  pieces,  in  f  of  a  pt.  of  water,  and  boil  it  for 


414  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

two  or  three  minutes ;  then  add  five  oz.  of  glycerine.  When 
cold,  this  fluid  will  produce  the  best  and  most  lasting 
bubbles  that  can  be  blown. 

To  Prevent  Rusting. — 1.  Boiled  'linseed  oil  will  keep 
polished  tools  from  rusting  if  it  is  allowed  to  dry  on  them. 
Common  sperm  oil  will  prevent  them  from  rusting  for  a 
short  period.  A  coat  of  copal  varnish  is  frequently  applied 
to  polished  tools  exposed  to  the  weather.  Woolen  materials 
are  the  best  for  wrappers  for  metals.  2.  Iron  and  steel  goods 
of  all  descriptions  are  kept  free  from  rust  by  the  following: 
Dissolve  |  oz.  of  camphor  in  1  lb.  of  hog's  lard,  take  off  the 
scum,  and  mix  as  much  black-lead  as  will  give  the  mixture 
an  iron  color.  Iron  and  steel  and  machinery  of  all  kinds, 
rubbed  over  with  this  mixture,  and  left  with  it  on  for  24 
hours,  and  then  rubbed  with  a  linen  cloth,  will  keep  clean 
for  months.  If  the  machinery  is  for  exportation  it  should 
be  kept  thickly  coated  with  this  during  the  voyage. 

To  Prevent  Lead  Exploding. — Many  mechanics  have 
had  their  patience  sorely  tried  when  pouring  melted  lead 
around  a  damp  or  wet  joint  to  find  it  explode,  blow  out,  or 
scatter  from  the  effects  of  steam  generated  by  the  heat  of 
the  lead.  The  whole  trouble  may  be  stopped  by  putting  a 
piece  of  resin  the  size  of  the  end  of  a  man's  thumb  into  the 
ladle  and  allowing  it  to  melt  before  pouring.  Simple  as  the 
secret  Is,  many  have  paid  $20  for  the  privilege  of  knowing  it. 

To  Repair  Rubber  Hose. — Cut  the  hose  apart  where  it 
is  defective,  obtain  from  any  gas-fitter  a  piece  of  iron  pipe 
two  or  three  inches  long,  twist  the  hose  over  it  until  the  ends 
meet,  wrap  with  strong  twine,  well  waxed,  and  it  will  last 
a  long  time. 

To   Keep    Wagon    Tires  on   the    Wheel. — A    practical 


THE  TEMPERING  SECRET.  415 

mechanic  suggests  a  method  of  so  putting  tires  on  wagons 
that  they  will  not  get  loose  and  require  resetting.  He  says 
he  ironed  a  wagon  some  years  ago  for  his  own  use,  and 
before  putting  on  the  tires,  ho  tilled  the  felloes  with  linseed 
oil,  and  the  tires  have  worn  out  and  were  never  loose.  This 
method  is  as  follows:  Use  a  long  cast-iron  heater  made 
for  the  purpose;  the  oil  is  brought  to  a  boiling  heat,  the 
wheel  is  placed  on  a  stick,  so  as  to  hang  each  felloe  in  the 
oil  an  hour.  The  timber  should  be  dry,  as  green  timber  will 
not  take  oil.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  oil  is  not  made 
hotter  than  a  boiling  heat,  or  the  timber  will  be  burned. 
Timber  filled  with  oil  is  not  susceptible  of  injury  by  water, 
and  is  rendered  much  more  durable  by  this  process. 

The  United  States  Government  Tempering  Secret. — 
The  following  process  and  mixtures,  patented  by  Garman 
and  Siegfried,  and  owned  by  the  Steel  Refining  and  Tem- 
pering Co.,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  cost  the  U.  S.  Government 
$10,000  for  the  right  of  using  in  their  shops,  and  is  said  to 
impart  extraordinary  hardness  and  durability  to  the  poorest 
kinds  of  steel.     Siegfried's  specification  reads  as  follows : — 

"  I  first  heat  the  steel  to  a  cherry  red  in  a  clean  smith's 
fire,  and  then  cover  it  with  chloride  of  sodium  (common 
salt),  purifying  the  fire  also  by  throwing  in  salt.  I  work 
the  steel  in  this  condition,  and  while  subjected  to  this 
treatment,  until  it  is  brought  into  nearly  its  finished  form. 
I  then  substitute  for  the  salt  a  compound  composed  of  the 
following  ingredients,  and  in  about  the  following  proportions: 
One  part  by  weight  of  each  of  the  following  substances: 
chloride  of  sodium  (salt),  sulphate  of  copper,  sal-ammoniac, 
and  sal-soda,  together  with  |  part  by  weight  of  pure  nitrate 
of  potassa  (saltpeter),  said  ingredients  being  pulverized  and 


416  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

mixed ;  I  alternately  heat  the  steel  and  treat  it  by  covering 
with  this  mixture  and  hammering  it  until  it  is  thoroughly 
refined  and  brought  into  its  finished  form.  I  then  return  it 
to  the  fire  and  heat  it  slowly  to  a  cherry  red,  and  then 
plunge  it  into  a  bath  composed  of  the  following  ingredients, 
in  substantially  the  following  proportions  for  the  required 
quantity:  of  rain-water  1  gal.,  alum,  sal-soda,  sulphate  of 
copper,  of  each  li  oz.,  of  nitrate  of  potassa  (saltpeter)  1  oz., 
and  of  chloride  of  sodium  (salt)  6  oz.  These  quantities  and 
proportions  are  stated  as  being  what  I  regard  as  practically 
the  best,  but  it  is  manifest  that  they  may  be  slightly  changed 
without  departing  from  the  principles  of  my  invention." 

U.  S.  Mint  Test  for  Counterfeit  Silver. — Make  a  solu- 
tion of  24  grs.  nitrate  of  silver,  30  drops  nitric  acid,  and  1 
oz.  of  water;  scrape  the  coin  to  be  tested  and  apply  a  drop 
of  the  liquid;  if  the  coin  turns  black,  reject  it. 


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N  the  following  pages  of  the  "  Household  Com- 
pendium," will  be  found  a  most  concise  and  val- 
uable collection  of  recipes  and  instructions  for 
cooking.  The  experienced  housewife  will  not  be 
slow  in  discovering  that  this  department  is  en- 
tirely reliable  and  trustworthy.  Every  recipe 
has  been  tested  in  the  kitchen  and  found  worthy 
of  a  place  in  this  book. 

In  order  that  this  Manual  may  be  more  service- 
able, the  following   arrangement  of  topics  has 
been  made:    Kitchen  utensils,  soups,  fish,  poul- 
try and  game,  meats,  vegetables,  sauces,  puddings,  break- 
fasts and   suppers,  pies,  custards  and    creams,  ices,  fruits, 
candy,  bread  and  biscuits,  drinks,  beverages,  etc.,  etc. 

27  t417J 


418 


OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


Wooden  Ware. — Kitchen  table,  wash  bench,  wash  tubs 
(three  sizes),  wash  board,  bosom  board,  bread  board,  towel 
roller,  potato  masher,  wooden  spoons,  flour  sieve,  chopping 
bowl,  soap  bowl,  pails,  lemon  squeezer,  clothes  wringer, 
clothes  horse,  clothes  pins,  clothes  basket,  mop,  broom,  and 
wood  box. 


Fig.  1 02. 

Tin  Ware. — Boiler  for  clothes,  boiler  for  ham,  bread 
pan,  two  dish  pans,  preserving  pan,  four  milk  pans,  two 
quart  basins,  two  pint  basins,  two  quart  covered  tin  pails, 
one  four-quart  covered  tin  pail,  sauce  pans  with  covers  (two 
<sizes),two  tin  cups  with  handles,  two  pint  molds  (for  rice,blanc- 


BECIPES  FOR  COOKING.  419 

mange,  etc.),  one  skimmer,  two  dippers  (different  sizes),  one 
quart  measure,  pint  and  half -pint  measures  (they  should  be 
broad  and  low,  as  they  are  more  easily  kept  clean),  bread 
pans,  two  round  jelly  cake  pans,  two  long  pie  pans,  coffee 
pot,  tea  steeper,  steamer,  horse-radish  grater,  nutmeg  grater, 
egg  beater,  cake  turner,  cake  cutter,  apple  corer,  potato  cut- 
ter, flour  dredge,  tea  canister,  coffee  canister,  cake,  bread, 
cracker,    and  cheese  boxes,  crumb  tray,  and  dust  pans. 

Iron  Ware. — Range  or  stove,  pot  with  steamer  to  fit, 
soup  kettle,  preserving  kettle  (porcelain),  tea  kettle,  large 
and  small  frying  pans,  gem  pans,  iron  spoons  of  various 
sizes,  gridiron,  griddle,  waffle  iron,  toasting  rack,  meat  fork, 
can  opener,  coffee  mill,  flat  irons,  hammer,  tack  hammer, 
screw  driver,  and  ice  pick. 

Stone  Ware. — Crocks  (various  sizes),  bowls  of  pint,  two 
quart,  four  quart,  and  six  quart,  six  earthen  baking  dishes 
of  various  sizes. 


So 


li-TO. 


The  basis  of  all  good  soups,  is  the  broth  of  meat.  This 
may  be  made  by  boiling  the  cracked  joints  of  beef,  veal,  or 
mutton,  and  is  best  when  cooked  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
eaten.  After  putting  the  meat  into  the  pot,  cover  it 
with  cold  water  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  when  it  should  be 
well  skimmed.  Set  the  meat  where  it  will  simmer  slowly 
until  it  is  thoroughly  done,  keeping  the  pot  closely  covered 
the  while.  The  next  day,  when  the  soup  is  cold,  remove  the 
fat,  which  will  harden  on  the  top  of  the  soup.  After  this. 
add  the  vegetables  and  the  herbs  you  use  for  seasoning, 
cooking  all  well  together.     Before  sending  to  the  table,  t  r  1  •  ■ 


420         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

soup  should  be  strained.  A  good  stock  for  soups  may  be 
made  from  shreds  and  bits  of  uncooked  meat  and  bones, 
poultry,  and  the  remains  of  game.  When  these  are  all  put 
together  and  stewed  down  in  the  pot,  the  French  term  it 
consomme,  and  use  it  chiefly  in  the  preparation  of  brown 
soups. 

Soups  may  be  varied  in  many  ways,  chiefly  in  the  kinds 
of  vegetables  and  different  seasonings  used,  as  in  herbs, 
burned  caramel,  eggs,  or  slices  of  bread  fried  to  a  crisp  in 
butter,  which  impart  a  savory  relish. 

Potato  Soup. — Slice  and  fry  to  a  nice  brown  4  large  on- 
ions in  one-fourth  lb.  butter  in  a  soup  pot,  add  4  qts.  of  skim- 
milk,  have  pealed  and  boiled  a  good  3  pts.  of  potatoes,  mash 
them  fine  and  reduce  smooth  with  the  milk  from  your  soup 
pot;  repeat  this  till  all  the  potatoes  are  in  the  soup  pot; 
just  bring  to  a  boil,  and  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Ox- Tail  Soup. — Take  2  ox  tails  and  2  whole  onions,  2 
carrots,  1  small  turnip,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  a  little 
white  pepper,  add  1  gal.  water,  let  all  boil  for  2  hours;  then 
take  out  the  tails  and  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  return 
the  bones  to  the  pot  for  a  short  time,  boil  another  hour, 
then  strain  the  soup,  and  rinse  2  spoonfuls  of  arrowroot  to 
add  to  it  with  the  meat  cut  from  the  bones,  and  let  all 
boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Beef  Soup. — Cut  all  the  lean  off  the  shank,  and  with  a 
little  beef  suet  in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle,  fry  it  to  a  nice 
brown;  put  in  the  bones  and  cover  with  water;  cover  the 
kettle  closely;  let  it  cook  slowly  until  the  meat  drops  from 
the  bones,  strain  through  a  strainer  and  leave  it  in  the  dish 
during  the  night,  which  is  the  only  way  to  get  off  all  the 
fat.     The  day  it  is  wanted  for  the  table,  fry  as  brown  as 


RECIPES  FOB  SOUPS.  421 

possible  1  carrot,  1  onion,  and  1  very  small  turnip  sliced 
thin.  Just  before  taking  up,  put  in  one-half  tea-spoonful  of 
sugar,  1  blade  of  mace,  6  cloves,  12  kernels  of  allspice,  1 
small  tea-spoonful  of  celery  seed,  with  the  vegetables,  this 
must  cook  slowly  in  the  soup  1  hour,  then  strain  again  for 
the  table.  If  you  use  vermicelli  or  pearl  barley,  soak  in 
water. 

Mutton  Soup. — Boil  a  leg  of  mutton  3  hours,  season  to 
your  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  1  tea-spoonful  of 
summer  savory ;  make  a  batter  of  1  egg,  2  table-spoonfuls  of 
milk,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  all  well  beaten  together ;  drop 
this  batter  into  the  soup  with  a  spoon,  and  boil  for  3  minutes. 

Oyster  Soup. — Take  1  qt.  of  water,  1  tea-cupful  of 
butter,  1  pt.  of  milk,  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt,  4  crackers  rolled 
fine,  and  1  tea-spoonful  of  pepper;  bring  to  full  boiling  heat 
as  soon  as  possible,  then  add  1  qt.  of  oysters.  Let  the  whole 
come  to  a  boiling  heat  quickly  and  remove  from  the  fire. 

Another. — Pour  1  qt.  of  boiling  water  into  a  skillet, 
then  add  1  qt.  of  good  rich  milk,  stir  in  1  tea-cupful  of 
rolled  cracker  crumbs,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
When  all  come  to  a  boil,  add  1  qt.  of  good  fresh  oysters; 
stir  well,  so  as  to  keep  from  scorching,  then  add  a  piece  of 
good  sweet  butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg;  let  it  boil  up 
once,  then  remove  from  the  fire  immediately ;  dish  up  and 
send  to  table. 

Tomato  Soup. — Boil  chicken  or  beef  4  hours,  then  strain, 
add  to  the  soup  one  can  of  tomatoes  and  boil  1  hour.  This 
will  make  four  quarts  of  soup. 

Vermicelli  Soup. — A  knuckle  of  lamb,  a  small  piece  of 
veal,  and  water  to  cover  well ;  when  well  cooked,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  herbs  to  your  taste,  and  a  small  onion,  to  which 


422  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

you  may  add  Halford  or  Worcestershire  sauce  about  1  table- 
spoonful.  Have  ready  one-fourth  lb.  of  vermicelli,  which  has 
been  boiled  tender,  strain  your  soup  from  the  meat,  add  the 
vermicelli,  let  it  boil  well  and  serve. 

Tomato  Soup  without  Meat. — 1  qt.  of  tomatoes,  1  qt. 
of  water,  1  qt,  of  milk.  Butter,  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Cook  the  tomatoes  thoroughly  in  the  water,  have  the  milk 
scalding,  (over  water  to  prevent  scorching).  When  the 
tomatoes  are  done,  add  1  large  tea-spoonful  of  saleratus, 
which  will  cause  a  violent  effervescence.  It  is  best  to 
set  the  vessel  in  a  pan  before  adding  it,  to  prevent  waste. 
When  the  commotion  has  ceased,  add  the  milk  and  season- 
ing. When  possible,  it  is  best  to  use  more  milk  than 
water,  and  cream  instead  of  butter.  The  soup  is  eaten  with 
crackers.  This  recipe  is  very  valuable  for  those  who  keep 
abstinence  days. 

Com  Soup. — 1  small  beef  bone,  2  qts.  of  water,  4  toma- 
toes, 8  ears  of  corn ;  let  the  meat  boil  a  short  time  in  the 
water,  cut  the  corn  from  the  cob  and  put  in  the  cobs  with 
the  cut  corn  and  tomatoes;  let  it  boil  about  half  an  hour, 
remove  the  cobs;  just  before  serving  add  the  milk,  which 
should  be  allowed  to  boil  for  a  few  moments  only ;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper. 

Bean  Soup. — 1  pt.  of  beans,  4  qts.  of  water,  small  piece 
of  fat  beef,  boil  3  hours  and  strain.  If  too  thin  add  1  table- 
spoonful  of  flour. 

Noodles  for  Soup. — Rub  into  2  eggs  as  much  sifted 
flour  as  they  will  absorb,  then  roll  out  until  thin  as  a  wafer, 
dust  over  a  little  flour,  and  then  roll  over  and  over  into  a 
roll,  cut  off  thin  slices  from  the  edge  of  the  roll  and  shake 
out  into  long  strips,  put  them  into  the  soup  lightly  and  boil 


HOW  TO  COOK  FISH.  4£3 

for  ten  minutes,  salt  should  be  added  while  mixing  with  the 
flour, — about  a  salt-spoonful. 


Fish  are  good  when  the  gills  are  red,  eyes  are  full,  and 
the  body  of  the  fish  is  firm  and  stiff.  After  washing  them 
well,  they  should  be  allowed  to  remain  for  a  short  time  in 
salt  water  sufficient  to  cover  them.  Before  cooking,  wipe 
them  dry,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Salmon-trout  and  other  small  fish  are  usually 
fried  or  broiled ;  all  large  fish  should  be  put  in  a  cloth,  tied 
closely  with  twine,  and  placed  in  cold  water,  when  they  may 
be  put  over  the  fire  to  boil.  When  fish  are  baked,  prepare 
them  the  same  as  for  boiling,  and  put  in  the  oven  on  a 
wire  gridiron,  over  a  dripping-pan. 

Boiled  White  Fish. — Lay  the  fish  open,  put  it  in'  a 
dripping-pan  with  the  back  down,  nearly  cover  with  water. 
To  one  fish  add  2  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  cover  tightly  and 
simmer  (not  boil)  one-half  hour,  dress  with  gravy,  butter, 
and  pepper,  garnish  with  sliced  eggs.  For  sauce,  use  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  1  table-spoonful  of  flour,  one-half 
pt.  of  boiling  water;  boil  a  few  minutes,  and  add  3  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  sliced. 

Sauce  for  Boiled  Fish. — To  1  tea-cupful  of  milk  add 
1  tea-cupful  of  water,  put  it  on  the  fire  to  scald,  and  when 
hot  stir  in  1  table-spoonful  of  flour,  previously  wet  with  cold 
water;  add  2  or  3  eggs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  a  little 
celery,  vinegar,  and  3  table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  Boil  4  or 
5  eggs  hard,  take  off"  the  shells,  and  cut  in  slices,  and  lay 
over  the  dish.     Then  pour  over  the  sauce  and  serve. 


424         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Baked  Black  Bass. — 8  good-sized  onions  chopped  fine, 
half  that  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  butter  size  of  hen's  egg, 
plenty  of  pepper  and  salt,  mix  thoroughly  with  anchovy 
sauce  until  quite  red.  Stuff  your  fish  with  this  compound 
and  pour  the  rest  over  it,  previously  sprinkling  it  with  a 
little  red  pepper.  Shad,  pickerel,  and  trout  are  good,  cooked 
in  the  same  way.  Tomatoes  can  be  used  instead  of  an- 
chovies, and  are  more  economical.  If  using  them,  take  pork 
in  place  of  butter  and  chop  fine. 

Broiled  White  Fish. — Wash  and  drain  the  fish,  sprinkle 
with  pepper  and  lay  with  the  inside  down  upon  the  gridiron, 
and  broil  over  fresh  bright  coals.  When  a  nice  brown,  turn 
for  a  moment  on  the  other  side,  then  take  up  and  spread 
with  butter.  This  is  a  very  nice  way  of  broiling  all  kinds 
of  fish,  fresh  or  salted.  A  little  smoke  under  the  fish  adds 
to  its  flavor.  This  may  be  made  by  putting  two  or  three 
cobs  under  the  gridiron. 

Eels. — Skin  and  parboil  them,  cleanse  the  back  bone  of 
all  coagulations,  cut  them  in  pieces  about  3  inches  in  length, 
dip  in  flour,  and  cook  in  pork  fat;  brown. 

Salt  Mackerel. — Soak  the  fish  for  a  few  hours  in  luke- 
warm water,  changing  the  water  several  times;  then  put 
into  cold  water,  loosely  tied  in  cloths,  and  let  the  fish  come 
to  a  boil,  turning  off  the  water  once,  and  pouring  over  the 
fish  hot  water  from  the  tea-kettle;  let  this  just  come  to  a 
boil,  then  take  them  out  and  drain  them,  lay  them  on  a 
platter,  butter  and  pepper  them,  and  place  them  for  a  few 
moments  in  the  oven.  Serve  with  sliced  lemons,  or  with 
any  nice  fish  sauce. 

Baked  Halibut  or  Salmon. — Let  the  fish  remain  in 
cold  water,  slightly  salted,  for  an  hour  before  it  is  time  to 


HOW  TO  COOK  OYSTERS.  425 

cook  it,  place  the  gridiron  on  a  dripping-pan  with  a  little 
hot  water  in  it,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven;  just  before  it  Is  done, 
butter  it  well  on  the  top,  and  brown  it  nicely.  The  time  of 
baking  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  fish.  A  small  fish  will 
bake  in  about  half  an  hour,  and  a  large  one  in  an  hour. 
They  are  very  nice  when  cooked  as  above  and  served  with 
a  sauce  which  is  made  from  the  gravy  in  the  dripping-pan, 
to  which  is  added  a  table-spoonful  of  catsup  and  another  of 
some  pungent  sauce  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Thicken 
with  brown  flour  moistened  with  a  little  cold  water.  Gar- 
nish handsomely  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and  current  j  elly. 

Oyster  Patties. — Make  some  rich  puff  paste  and  bake  it 
in  very  small  tin  patty-pans ;  when  cool,  turn  them  out  upon  a 
large  dish;  stew  some  large  fresh  oysters  with  a  few  cloves, 
a  little  mace,  and  nutmeg;  then  add  the  yolk  of  one  egg, 
boiled  hard  and  grated;  add  a  little  butter  and  as  much  of 
the  oyster  liquor  as  will  cover  them.  When  they  have 
stewed  a  little  while,  take  them  out  of  the  pan  and  set 
them  to  cool.  "When  quite  cold,  lay  two  or  three  oysters  in 
each  shell  of  puff  paste. 

Stewed  Oysters. — Drain  the  liquor  from  2  qts.  of  firm, 
plump  oysters,  mix  with  one  small  tea-cupful  of  hot  water, 
add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  set  over  a  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan. When  it  boils,  add  1  large  cupful  of  rich  milk.  Let 
it  boil  up  once,  add  the  oysters,  and  let  it  boil  5  minutes. 
When  they  ruffle  add  2  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  the 
ins£ant  it  is  melted  and  well  stirred  in,  take  off  the  fire. 

Broiled  Oysters. — Drain  the  oysters  well  and  dry  them 
with  a  napkin.  Have  ready  a  griddle  hot  and  well-but- 
tered, season  the  oysters,  lay  them  on  the  griddle  and  brown 
them  on  both  sides.  Serve  them  on  a  hot  plate  with  plenty 
of  butter. 


426  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Oysters  a  la  Creme. — 1  qt.  of  oysters,  1  pt.  of  cream;  put 
the  oysters  in  a  double  kettle,  cook  until  the  milk  j  uice  begins 
to  flow  out,  drain  the  oysters  in  a  strainer.  Put  the  cream 
on  the  same  way;  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  thicken  with 
flour  wet  with  milk  as  thick  as  corn  starch  ready  to  mold ; 
then  put  in  the  oysters  and  cook  5  minutes.  Serve  hot  on 
toast. 

Escaloped  Oysters. — Butter  the  dish,  (common  earthen 
pie  plates  are  the  best),  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with 
very  fine  bread  crumbs;  add  a  layer  of  oysters;  season 
with  pepper  and  salt;  alternate  the  crumbs  and  oysters 
until  you  have  three  layers;  finish  with  crumbs;  cover  the 
top  with  small  pieces  of  butter ;  finish  around  the  edge  with 
bread  cut  into  small  oblong  pieces  dipped  in  butter;  bake 
half  an  hour;  unless  shell  oysters,  wash  them  thoroughly 
and  strain. 

To  Fry  Oysters. — Use  the  largest  and  best  oysters;  lay 
them  in  rows  upon  a  clean  cloth  and  press  another  upon 
them,  to  absorb  the  moisture;  have  ready  several  beaten 
eggs,  and  in  another  dish  some  finely  crushed  crackerst;  in 
the  frying-pan  heat  enough  butter  to  entirely  cover  the  oys- 
ters; dip  the  oysters  first  into  the  eggs,  then  into  the  crack- 
ers, rolling  them  over  that  they  may  become  well  in- 
crusted;  drop  into  the  frying-pan,  and  fry  quickly  to  a 
light  brown.  Serve  dry  and  let  the  dish  be  warm.  A 
chafing  dish  is  best. 

Stetved  Tripe. — Select  2  lbs.  of  double  tripe  well 
cleaned  and 'blanched,  cut  in  pieces  of  rather  less  than  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  each,  put  in  a  clean  stew-pan  with  1  pt. 
of  milk,  and  one  of  water,  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt,  1  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  8  middle-sized  onions  carefully  peeled; 


HOW  TO  COOK  POULTRY  AND,  GAME.  427 

set  it  on  to  boil,  which  it  should  do  at  first  rather  fast,  thru 
simmer  till  done,  which  will  be  in  rather  more  than  half  an 
hour.  Put  it  into  a  deep  dish  or  tureen,  and  serve  with  the 
milk  and  onions. 


kowikviA    awh    Qavwi. 


When  poultry  is  brought  into  the  kitchen  for  use,  it 
should  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible.  The  best  position  in 
which  to  place  it  is  with  the  breast  downward  on  a  shelf 
or  marble  slab.  The  crop  should  be  taken  out.  Choose 
fowls  with  a  thin,  transparent  skin,  white  and  delicate. 
Time  required  to  boil  poultry:  a  chicken  will  take  about  20 
minutes,  a  fowl  about  40  minutes,  a  small  turkey  li  hours, 
a  large  turkey  2  hours  or  more. 

Preparation  of  Hashes,  Gravies,  and  Sauces. — There  is 
nothing  worse  for  the  health  or  for  the  palate  than  a  poor 
hash,  while  a  good  hash  is  not  only  a  favorite  dish  in  most 
families,  but  an  essential  article  of  economy  and  convenience. 
For  this  reason  a  separate  article  is  devoted  to  this  subject. 
The  following  are  the  ways  in  which  hashes  are  spoiled. 
The  first  is  by  cooking  them.  Meat,  when  once  cooked, 
should  only  be  heated.  If  it  is  again  stewed  or  fried,  it  tends 
to  make  it  hard  or  tough,  and  diminishes  its  flavor.  The 
second  is  by  frying  the  butter  or  gravy  in  which  they  are 
prepared.  It  has  been  shown  that  this  is  very  injurious  to 
the  healthfulness  of  food.  Butter  and  oils  may  be  melted 
without  changing  their  nature,  but  when  cooked,  they  be- 
come much  more  indigestible  and  injurious  to  weak  stom- 
achs. The  third  mode  of  injuring  hashes  is  by  putting  in 
flour  in  such  ways  that  it  is  not  properly  cooked.     Flour 


428  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

dredged  on  to  hashes  while  they  are  cooking  imparts  the 
raw  taste  of  dough.  The  fourth  mode  is  by  putting  in 
so  much  water  as  to  make  them  vapid,  or  else  so  much 
grease  as  to  make  them  gross.  The  fifth  is  by  seasoning 
them  with  so  little  care,  that  they  either  have  very  little 
savory  taste,  or  else  are  so  hot  with  pepper  and  spice  as  to 
be  unhealthy.  If  the  housekeeper  will  observe  these  cau- 
tions, or  see  that  her  cook  does  so,  she  may'  always  have  good 
and  healthful  hashes. 

Boiled  Foid— Take  a  young  fowl  and  fill  the  inside 
with  oysters  ;  place  in  a  jar  and  plunge  into  a  kettle  of 
water;  boil  1|  hours;  there  will  be  a  quantity  of  gravy  in 
the  jar  from  the  juice  of  the  fowl,  and  the  oysters;  make 
this  into  a  white  sauce,  with  the  addition  of  egg,  cream,  or 
a  little  flour  and  butter ;  add  oysters,  or  serve  up  plain  with 
the  fowl.  This  is  very  nice  with  the  addition  of  a  little  pars- 
ley to  the  sauce. 

Roast  Turkey  or  Chicken. — Having  picked  and  drawn 
the  fowls,  wash  them  well  in  two  or  three  waters;  wipe 
them  dry;  dredge  them  with  a  little  flour  inside  and  out, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  prepare  a  dressing  of  bread  and 
cracker  crumbs,  fill  the  bodies  and  crops  of  the  fowLs  and 
then  bake  them  from  2  to  3  hours ;  baste  them  frequently 
while  roasting;  stew  the  giblets  in  a  saucepan;  just  before 
serving,  chop  the  giblets  fine;  after  taking  up  the  chicken 
and  the  water  in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled,  add  the 
chopped  giblets  to  the  gravy  of  the  roast  fowl ;  thicken  with 
a  little  flour,  which  has  been  previously  wet  with  the  water ; 
boil  up  and  serve  in  a  gravy-dish.  Roast  chicken  and  tur- 
key should  be  accompanied  with  celery  and  jellies. 

To  Boil  a  Turkey. — Make  a  stuffing  for  the   craw  of 


HOW  TO  COOK  POULTRY  AND  GAME.  429 

chopped  bread  and  butter,  cream,  oysters,  and  the  yolks  of 
eggs ;  sew  it  in,  and  dredge  flour  over  the  turkey,  and  put  it 
to  boil  in  cold  water,  with  a  spoonful  of  salt  in  it,  and  enough 
water  to  cover  it  well;  let  it  simmer  for  2£  hours,  or  if 
small,  less  time;  skim  it  Avhile  boiling.  It  looks  nicer  if 
wrapped  in  a  cloth  dredged  wjth  flour;  serve  it  with  drawn 
butter,  in  which  put  some  oysters. 

Roast  Chickens. — Wash  them  clean  outside  and  inside, 
stuff  as  directed  for  turkeys,  and  baste  with  butter,  lard, 
or.  drippings,  and  roast  them  about  an  hour.  Chickens 
should  be  cooked  thoroughly.  Stew  the  inwards  till  tender 
and  till  there  is  but  little  water,  chop  them  and  mix  in 
gravy  from  the  dripping-pan,  thicken  with  brown  flour, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  Cranberry  or  new- 
made  apple  sauce  is  good  with  them. 

Baked  Chicken. — Cut  the  fowl  open  and  lay  it  flat 
in  a  pan,  breaking  down  the  breast  and  the  back  bones, 
dredge  with  flour  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  bits  of  butter;  put  in  a  very  hot  oven  until  done,  bast- 
ing frequently  with  melted  butter,  or  when  half  done  take 
out  the  chicken  and  finish  by  broiling  it  upon  a  gridiron 
over  bright  coals;  pour  over  it  melted  butter  and  the  juices 
in  the  pan  in  which  it  was  baked. 

Dressing  for  Chicken  or  Turkey. — Chop  bread  crumbs 
quite  fine,  season  well  with  pepper,  salt,  and  plenty  of 
butter,  moisten  with  a  very  little  water,  and  add  a  few 
oysters  with  a  little  of  the  liquor,  if  you  please.  The  best 
authorities  say  the  dressing  is  the  finest  when  it  crumbles  as 
the  fowl  is  cut. 

Dressing  for  Turkey. — One  pint  of  soaked  bread,  2 
table-spoonfuls  of  sage,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  summer  savory. 


430  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  A  DORNMEATS. 

2  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt,  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  pepper,  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg. 

Fried  Chicken. — Cut  the  chicken  in  pieces,  lay  it  in  salt 
and  water,  changing  the  water  several  times,  roll  each  piece 
in  flour,  fry  in  very  hot  lard  or  butter,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  fry  parsley  with  it  also.  Make  a  gravy  of  cream 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  mace,  thickened  with 
a  little  flour  in  the  pan  in  which  the  chicken  was  fried,  pour- 
ing off  the  lard. 

Curry.— To  make  curry  with  rabbit,  chicken,  or  any 
other  meat,  flour  the  meat  and  fry  it  a  nice  light  brown,  fry 
also  2  large  onions  in  the  same  way,  mix  a  table-spoonful  of 
curry  powder,  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  in  a  tea-cup, 
with  warm  water,  to  the  consistency  of  cream,  and  cover 
every  part  of  the  meat  with  the  mixture ;  have  ready  some 
nice  stock  or  thin  gravy,  put  all  together  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
let  it  stew  gently  20  minutes ;  before  serving,  slice  2  or  3 
apples,  let  them  stew  away ;  this  addition  is  thought  to  be  a 
great  improvement  as  it  makes  the  curry  milder.  Some 
rice  should  be  boiled  very  dry  and  served  around  the  dish. 

Chicken  Pie. — Stew  chickens  until  tender,  line  the  sides 
of  a  deep  pie  dish  with  nice  pastry,  put  in  the  chicken  and 
the  water  in  which  it  has  boiled  (which  should  be  but  half  a 
pint),  season  with  a  large  piece  of  butter,  salt,  and  pepper, 
and  then  cover  loosely  with  crust.  While  this  is  baking, 
have  ready  a  quart  can  of  fine  oysters,  put  on  the  fire  1  pt. 
of  rich  milk  (or  the  liquor  of  the  oysters  will  do),  let  it  come 
to  a  boil,  thicken  with  a  little  flour,  and  season  with  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt ;  pour  this  over  the  oysters  boiling  hot ;  and 
about  fifteen  minutes  before  the  pie  is  done,  lift  the  crust 
and  pour  the  oysters  and  all  into  the  pie,  then  return  to  the 
oven  to  finish. 


HOW  TO  COOK  POULTRY  AND  GAME.  4:;| 

To  Roast  Wild  Foivl.—'Put  an  onion,  salt,  and  hot  water 
into  a  pan,  and  baste  for  10  or  15  minutes;  change  the 
pan,  put  in  a  slice  of  salt  pork,  and  baste  with  butter  and 
pork  drippings  very  often,  just  before  serving  dredge  lightly 
with  flour  and  baste.  Ducks  take  from  25  to  35  minutes  to 
roast,  and  woodcocks  and  snipes  15  to  25.  Do  not  draw  or 
take  off  the  heads  of  either.  Garnish  with  fried  or  toasted 
bread,  lemon,  parsley,  and  currant  jelly. 

Ducks. — When  roasted,  use  dressing  as  for  turkey,  with 
the  addition  of  a  few  slices  of  onion.  Many  cooks  lay  over 
the  game  slices  of  onion,  which  take  away  the  fishy  flavor, 
removing  the  onion  before  serving.  Make  a  sauce  with  the 
drippings  in  the  pan  in  which  the  game  is  roasted,  and  to 
which  are  put  the  chopped  giblets,  being  previously  well 
cooked;  thicken  the  gravy  with  brown  flour,  moistened  with 
water.     Serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Prairie  Chickens,  Partridges,  and  Quails. — Clean 
nicely,  using  a  little  soda  in  the  water  in  which  they  are 
washed,  rinse  them  and  dry,  and  then  fill  them  with  dressing, 
sewing  them  up  nicely,  binding  down  the  legs  and  wings 
with  cords.  Put  them  in  a  steamer  over  hot  water,  and  let 
them  cook  until  just  done.  Then  place  them  in  a  pan  with  a 
little  butter,  set  them  in  the  oven  and  baste  them  frequently 
with  melted  butter  until  of  a  nice  brown.  They  ought  to 
brown  nicely  in  about  15  minutes.  Serve  them  on  a  platter, 
with  sprigs  of  parsley  alternating  with  currant  jelly. 

Quail  on  Toast. — After  the  birds  are  nicely  cleaned, 
cut  them  open  down  the  back,  salt  and  pepper  them,  and 
dredge  with  flour.  Break  down  the  breast  and  back  bon«^. 
so  they  will  lie  flat,  and  place  them  in  a  pan  with  very  little 
water  and  butter  in  a  hot  oven,  covering  them  up  tightly 


432         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

until  nearly  done.  Then  place  them  in  a  spider  in  hot  butter, 
and  fry  a  moment  to  a  nice  brown.  Have  ready  slices  of 
baker's  bread,  toasted  and  slightly  buttered  upon  a  platter. 
The  toast  should  be  broken  down  with  a  carving  knife  so 
that  it  will  be  tender.  On  this  place  the  quail,  make  a 
sauce  of  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  thicken  slightly  with  browned 
flour,  and  pour  over  each  quail  and  the  toast. 

Pigeon  Pie. — Make  a  fine  puff  paste,  lay  a  border  of  it 
around  a  large  dish,  and  cover  the  bottom  with  a  veal  cutlet, 
or  a  very  tender  steak  free  from  fat  and  bone,  season  with 
salt,  cayenne  pepper,  and  mace.  Prepare  as  many  pigeons 
as  can  be  put  in  one  layer  of  the  dish,  put  in  each  pigeon  a 
small  lump  of  butter,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  lay 
them  in  the  dish  breast  downward,  and  cut  in  slices  half  a 
dozen  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  lay  in  with  the  birds;  put  in 
more  butter,  some  veal  broth,  and  cover  the  whole  with 
crust.     Bake  slowly  11  hours. 

91tcah>. 

All  salt  meat  should  be  put  on  in  cold  water,  that  the 
salt  may  be  extracted  while  cooking.  Fresh  meat,  which 
is  boiled  to  be  served  with  sauces  at  the  table,  should  be  put 
to  cook  in  boiling  water ;  when  the  outer  fibers  contract,  the 
inner  j  uices  are  preserved. 

For  making  soup,  put  the  meat  over  in  cold  water,  to 
extract  the  juices  for  the  broth. 

In  boiling  meats,  if  more  water  is  needed,  add  that  which 
is  hot,  and  be  careful  to  keep  the  water  on  the  meat  con- 
stantly boiling. 


HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS.  433 

Remove  the  scum  when  it  first  begins  to  boil.  The  more 
gently  meat  boils,  the  more  tender  it  will  become.  Allow 
twenty  minutes  for  boiling  each  pound  of  fresh  meat. 

Roast  meats  requh*e  a  brisk  fire.  Baste  often.  Twenty 
minutes  is  required  for  roasting  each  pound  of  fresh  meat. 
The  variation  in  roasted  meats  consists  simply  in  the  method 
of  preparing  them  to  cook,  before  putting  them  in  the  oven. 
Some  are  to  be  larded,  some  stuffed  with  bread  dressing,  and 
others  plain,  only  seasoning  with  pepper  and  salt. 

A  piece  of  red  pepper,  cooked  in  a  boiled  dinner,  is  very 
nice. 

Roast  Beef. — Prepare  for  the  oven  by  dredging  lightly 
with  flour,  and  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper ;  place  m  the 
oven,  and  baste  frequently  while  roasting.  Allow  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  for  a  pound  of  meat,  if  you  like  it  rare ;  longer  if 
you  like  it  well  done.  Serve  with  a  sauce,  made  from  the 
drippings  in  the  pan,  to  which  has  been  added  1  table- 
spoonful  of  Halford  or  Worcestershire  sauce  and  1  table- 
spoonful  of  tomato  catsup. 

Beefsteak  and  Mushrooms. — Put  in  a  saucepan  1  oz.  of 
butter,  1  small  onion  chopped  fine,  a  little  ground  sage,  and 
a  little  thyme,  and  put  it  over  the  fire ;  when  hot,  shake  in 
2  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  it  becomes  brown,  put 
in  1  gill  of  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Then 
add  3  table-spoonfuls  of  beef  stock,  a  little  salt,  a  little  nut- 
meg and  one  wine-glass  of  sherry  wine.  Put  in  one  can  of 
mushrooms,  and  let  it  boil  for  10  minutes.  Pour  this  over 
a  nicely  broiled  beefsteak. 

To  Boil  Corned  Beef. — Put  the  beef  in  water  enough 
to  cover  it,  and  let  it  heat  slowly  and  boil  slowly,  and  he 
careful  to  take  off  the  grease.     Many  think  it  much  iiu- 

28 


434  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

proved  by  boiling  potatoes,  turnips,  and  cabbages  with  it. 
In  this  case  the  vegetables  must  be  peeled  and  all  the  grease 
carefully  skimmed  as  fast  as  it  rises.  Allow  about  20  min- 
utes of  boiling  for  each  pound  of  meat. 

To  Cook  a  Ham. — Boil  a  common-sized  ham  4  or  5 
hours,  then  skin  the  whole  and  fit  it  for  the  table.  Set 
it  in  an  oven  for  half  an  hour,  then  cover  it  thickly  with 
pounded  rusk  or  bread  crumbs,  and  set  it  back  for  half  an 
hour.  Boiled  ham  is  always  improved  by  setting  it  into  an 
oven  for  nearly  an  hour,  till  much  of  the  fat  fries  out; 
this  also  makes  it  more  tender. 

Spiced  Beef. — 4  lbs.  of  round  of  beef  chopped  fine,  all 
fat  beinof  removed ;  add  3  doz.  small  crackers  rolled  fine,  4 
eggs,  1  cup  of  milk,  1  table-spoonful  of  ground  mace,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  black  pepper,  1  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter ; 
mix  well  and  put  in  any  tin  pan  that  it  will  just  fill,  pack- 
ing it  well ;  baste  with  butter  and  water,  and  bake  2  hours 
in  a  slow  oven. 

To  Corn  Beef. — To  each  gallon  of  cold  water,  put  1  qt. 
rock  salt,  1  oz.  salt-petre  and  4  oz.  brown  sugar,  (it  need 
not  be  boiled),  as  long  as  any  salt  remains  undissolved,  the 
meat  will  be  sweet.  If  any  scum  should  rise,  scald  and 
skim  well ;  add  more  salt,  salt-petre,  and  sugar ;  as  you  put 
each  piece  of  meat  into  the  brine,  rub  over  with  salt.  If 
the  weather  is  hot,  gash  the  meat  to  the  bone,  and  put  it  in 
salt.  Put  a  flat  stone  or  some  weight  on  the  meat  to  keep 
it  under  the  brine. 

Fielded  Pork  Eqiud  to  Fresh. — Let  the  meat  cool  thor- 
oughly, cut  into  pieces  four  to  six  inches  wide,  weigh  them, 
and  pack  as  tight  as  possible,  salting  lightly.  Cover  the 
meat  with  brine  as  strong  as  possible.     Next  day  pour  off 


HOW  TO  COOK  MEATS.  | ;    , 

a  gallon  of  the  brine  and  mix  with  it  a  table-spoonful  of 
salt-peter  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  meat,  and  return  it 
to  the  barrel.  Let  it  stand  one  month,  take  out  the  meat 
and  let  it  drain  12  hours.  Put  the  brine  into  an  iron  kettle, 
add  1  qt.  molasses  or  2  lbs.  sugar,  and  boil  till  clear.  When 
cold  return  the  meat  to  the  barrel  and  pour  on  the  brine. 
Cover  it  close,  and  you  will  have  the  sweetest  meat  you  ever 
tasted. 

Mutton  Chops. — Cut  them  nicely,  clearing  away  all 
rao-cred  ends  and  edges;  fry  for  a  few  moments  covered 
closely,  and  then  dip  each  piece  in  cracker  crumbs  and 
beaten  egg,  or  you  may  prepare  them  as  for  frying;  then, 
lay  them  in  a  dripping-pan,  and  put  into  the  oven  to  bake; 
baste  frequently  with  a  little  melted  butter  and  water. 

Roast  Veal. — Prepare  a  leg  of  veal  for  the  oven  by 
washing,  drying,  and  larding  it  with  strips  of  fat  bacon  or 
ham,  and  dredging  it  well  with  flour,  and  seasoning  with 
salt  and  pepper;  baste  frequently  and  serve  with  the  gravy 
thickened.  A  roast  fillet  of  veal  should  be  prepared  by 
stuffing  it  with  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  chopped  ham, 
summer  savory,  pepper  and  salt.  Dredge  lightly  with  flour 
and  bake. 

Fried  Calf's  Liver.— Cut  in  thin  slices,  wash  and 
drain,  roll  them  in  corn  meal  or  cracked  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  fresh  or  salt  pork  gravy  or  butter. 

To  Cook  Sliced  Ham.—  Cut  raw  ham  in  slices,  soak  in 
scalding  water  half  an  hour,  lay  your  slices  in  a  frying-pan, 
pepper  each,  and  lay  on  each  slice  a  little  made  mustard; 
pour  in  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  vinegar  to  each  slice;  fry 
quickly,  turn  often.  When  done  take  out,  serve  on  a  dish, 
add  to  the  gravy  1  spoonful  of  wine,  (if  you  have  any 


43b'  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

handy),  and  1  tea-spoonful  of  sugar.  Boil  up  once,  pour 
over  your  ham,  and  serve. 

Baked  Ham. — Most  persons  boil  ham.  It  is  much  bet- 
ter baked,  if  baked  right.  Soak  it  for  an  hour  in  clean 
water  and  wipe  it  dry,  next  spread  it  all  over  with  thin 
batter,  and  then  put  it  into  a  deep  dish  with  sticks  under  it 
to  keep  it  out  of  the  gravy.  When  it  is  fully  done  and  the 
batter  crusted  on  the  flesh  side,  take  off  the  skin  and  set  it 
away  to  cool. 

To  Boil  Ham. — Wash  and  scrape  the  ham  clean;  put  it 
on  in  cold  water  enough  to  cover  it;  put  into  the  water  2 
onions,  2  carrots,  a  head  of  celery,  a  dozen  cloves  and  a 
handful  of  timothy  hay ;  boil  without  stopping  until  the  skin 
will  readily  peel  from  the  ham ;  cover  the  ham  with  rolled 
crackers,  or  bread  crumbs  that  have  been  browned  and 
rolled,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  2  hours. 

0 

Chicken  Salad. — Three  chickens  chopped  fine,  both  light 
and  dark  meat,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  8  or  10  eggs  boiled 
hard,  the  whites  chopped  fine  and  the  yolks  mashed  fine, 
moisten  with  6  tea-spoonfuls  melted  butter,  2  tea-spoonfuls 
sweet  oil ;  to  which  add  1  table-spoonful  of  mustard,  1  of 
pepper,  1  of  salt,  1  of  sugar,  3  of  cream;  and  last,  add  6 
large  bunches  of  celery  chopped  fine,  with  sufficient  vinegar 
to  moisten  the  whole. 

Chicken  Salad,  No.  3. — Boil  one  chicken  tender,  then 
take  the  meat  and  chop  up,  take  2  table-spoonfuls  of  mus- 
tard, 3  eggs  boiled  hard,  chop  the  whites  with  the  chickens, 
rub  the  yolks  up  fine  with  the  mustard,  1  table-spoonful  of 


SALADS,  SA  UCES,  AND  PICKLES.  437 

salt,  3  table-spoonfuls  melted  butter,  1  table-spoonful  black 
pepper,  vinegar  enough  to  moisten  it,  chop  3  heads  of  celery 
to  one  chicken,  mix  all  together  and  serve. 

Fish  Salad. — Boil  tender  a  white-fish  or  trout;  chop 
fine ;  add  same  quantity  chopped  celery,  cabbage,  or  lettuce ; 
season  same  as  chicken  salad. 

Cabbage  Salad. — First  prepare  the  cabbage  by  letting  it 
stand  for  some  time  in  cold  water,  in  order  to  make  it  crisp ; 
dry  well  and  shave  as  finely  as  possible.  Choose  a  firm, 
white  cabbage.  Dressing:  Rub  together  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  1  table-spoonful  of  flour;  stir  in  2 
table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  scald  for  1  minute ;  then  add 
the  yolk  of  1  egg  (beaten)  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
cream ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Salad  Dressing. — The  yolk  of  4  eggs,  two-thirds  of  a 
cup  of  oil,  red  pepper,  salt  and  mustard  to  taste,  the  juice  of 
'2  lemons,  and  last  of  all,  1  cup  of  thick  cream.  If  the 
dressing  is  for  chicken  salad,  use  the  oil  or  fat  from  the 
chicken  instead  of  sweet  oil.  Be  sure  and  put  the  cream  in 
last,  just  before  sending  to  the  table. 

Mint  Sauce. — Mix  1  table-spoonful  of  white  sugar  to 
half  a  tea-cup  of  good  vinegar ;  add  the  mint  and  let  it  in- 
fuse for  half  an  hour  in  a  cool  place  before  sending  to  the 
table.     Serve  with  roast  lamb  or  mutton. 

Celery  Sauce. — Mix  2  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  with  half 
a  tea-cup  of  butter;  have  ready  a  pint  of  boiling  milk;  stir 
the  flour  and  butter  into  the  milk;  take  3  heads  of  celery, 
cut  into  small  bits,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes  in  water, 
then  strain  it  off;  put  the  celery  into  the  melted  butter,  and 
keep  it  stirred  over  the  fire  for  5  or  10  minutes.  This  is 
very  nice  with  boiled  fowl  or  turkey. 


438  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Egg  Sauce. — Take  the  yolks  of  2  eggs  boiled  hard; 
mash  them  with  1  tea-spoonful  of  mustard,  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  3  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  3  of  sweet  oil.  A 
table-spoonful  of  catsup  improves  this  for  some.  Nice  for 
boiled  fish. 

Tomato  Sauce. — 36  ripe  tomatoes,  6  green  peppers,  2 
onions  chopped  fine,  2  cups  of  sugar,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
2  tea-spoonfuls  of  ground  cloves,  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  mustard, 
2  tea-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  and  2  cups  of  vinegar ;  boil  half 
a  day. 

Fish  Sauce.— I  lb.  t>f  fresh  butter,  1  table-spoonful  of 
finely  chopped  parsley,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  juice 
of  2  lemons.  Cream  the  butter;  mix  all  well  together, 
adding  at  the  least  1  tea-spoonful  of  mayonaise.  Less  lemon 
juice  may  be  used  if  preferred. 

Tomato  Mustard. — 1  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes;  boil  with 
2  onions,  6  red  peppers,  and  4  cloves  of  garlic,  for  1  hour; 
then  add  one-half  pt.  or  one-half  lb.  salt,  3  table-spoonfuls 
black  pepper,  one-half  oz.  ginger,  one-half  oz.  allspice, 
one-half  oz.  mace,  one-half  oz.  cloves ;    then  boil  again  for 

1  hour  longer,  and  when  cold  add  1  pt.  vinegar  and  one- 
quarter  pound  of  mustard;  and  if  you  like  it  very  hot,  a 
table-spoonful  of  cayenne. 

Horse-Radisk  Sauce. — 2  tea-spoonfuls  of  made  mustard, 

2  of  white  sugar,  one-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  gill  of 
vinegar ;  mix  and  pour  over  grated  horse-radish.  Excellent 
with  beef. 

French  Pudding  Sauce. — Beat  4  oz.  butter  to  a 
cream;  stir  in  one-quarter  oz.  brown  sugar;  add  the  yolk 
of  1  egg  and  1  gill  of  wine;  put  it  on  the  stove,  stirring  all 
the  time  till  it  simmers.  Grate  nutmeg  over  it  before  send- 
ing it  to  the  table. 


SALADS,  SAUCES,  AND  PICKLES.  439 

Tomato  Catsup. — Boil  the  tomatoes  until  quite  soft,  and 
rub  them  well  through  a  sieve;  to  every  quart  add  2  oz. 
shalots  and  large  red  peppers,  or  1  tea-spoonful  cayenne  pep- 
per, 1  oz.  bruised  ginger,  1  spoonful  salt,  a  few  cloves;; 
boil  until  reduced  one-third;  10  minutes  before  taking  off 
the  fire  add  one-half  pt.  of  vinegar  to  each  quart. 

Pickled  Cherries. — 5  lbs.  of  cherries,  stoned  or  not,  1  qt. 
of  vinegar,  2  lbs.  of  sugar,  one-half  oz.  of  cinnamon,  one- 
half  oz.  of  cloves,  one-half  oz.  of  mace;  boil  the  sugar  and 
vinegar  and  spices  together,  (grind  the  spices  and  tie  them 
in  a  muslin  bag),  and  pour  hot  over  the  cherries. 

Spiced  Currants  to  be  Eaten  with  Meats. — 4  qts.  cur- 
rants, 1  pt.  of  vinegar,  3  lbs.  of  sugar,  1  table-spoonful  cin- 
namon, 1  of  allspice,  1  of  cloves,  1  of  nutmeg;  cook  1  hour; 
keep  in  a  cool  place,  tightly  covered. 

Green-Tomato  Pickles. — Cut  one-half  pk.  of  green 
tomatoes  and  6  large  onions  into  thin  slices ;  let  them  remain 
in  salt  and  water  over  night;  then  pour  off  the  brine  and 
put  them  in  a  preserving  kettle  with  4  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  4  of  the  best  mustard,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  ground 
cloves,  2  of  cinnamon,  1  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  one  of 
curry  powder,  and  let  them  simmer  for  1  hour ;  then  put 
them  in  stone  or  glass  jars. 

Pickled  Cabbage. — Select  solid  heads,  slice  very  fine,  put 
into  ajar,  cover  with  boiling  water;  when  cold,  drain  off 
the  water,  and  season  with  grated  horse-radish,  salt,  equal 
parts  of  black  and  red  pepper,  cinnamon,  and  cloves  whole; 
cover  with  strong  vinegar.  This  is  convenient  and  always 
good. 

Spiced  Tomatoes. — To  4  lbs.  of  large  red  tomatoes,  take 
2  lbs.  of  good  brown  sugar,  1  pt.  of  cider  vinegar,  one-half 


440  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

oz.  cloves,  and  one-half  oz.  of  stick  cinnamon;  stew  all  to- 
gether in  a  preserving-  kettle  until  the  tomatoes  are  cooked; 
take  the  tomatoes  out  and  put  them  on  dishes  to  cool,  letting 
the  syrup  go  on  simmering  slowly ;  when  the  tomatoes  are 
cold,  return  them  to  the  syrup  for  a  little  while;  let  them 
become  cold  before  putting  them  into  the  jars.  The  syrup 
must  be  boiled  down  as  thick  as  molasses,  and  poured  cold 
over  the  tomatoes;  tie  them  down  with  bladder  or  waxed 
paper. 

Chow  Chow. — 2  qts.  tomatoes,  2  white  onions,  one-half 
doz.  green  peppers,  1  doz.  cucumbers,  2  heads  of  cabbage, 
ail  chopped  line ;  let  this  stand  over  night ;  sprinkle  a  tea- 
cup of  salt  in  it.  In  the  morning  drain  off  the  brine,  and 
season  with  1  table-spoonful  celery  seed,  1  oz.  turmeric,  one- 
half  tea-spoonful  cayenne  pepper,  1  cup  brown  sugar,  1  oz. 
cinnamon,  1  oz.  allspice,  1  oz.  black  pepper,  one  fourth  oz. 
cloves,  vinegar  enough  to  cover;  boil  2  hours. 

Ripe  Tomato  Pickles. — To  7  lbs.  of  ripe  tomatoes  add 
3  lbs.  sugar,  1  qt.  vinegar;  boil  them  together  15  minutes; 
skim  out  the  tomatoes  and  boil  the  syrup  a  few  minutes 
longer;  spice  to  suit  the  taste  with  cloves  and  cinnamon. 

Tomatoes  Whole  for  Winter  Use. — Fill  a  large  stone 
jar  with  ripe  tomatoes,  then  add  a  few  whole  cloves  and  a 
little  sugar ;  cover  them  well  with  one-half  cold  vinegar  and 
one-half  water;  place  a  piece  of  flannel  over  the  jar,  well 
down  into  the  vinegar,  then  tie  down  with  paper.  I  have 
kept  tomatoes  in  this  way  the  year  round,  and  can  cheer- 
fully recommend  them.  Should  mildew  collect  on  the  flan- 
nel it  will  not  injure  the  tomatoes  in  the  least. 

Pickled  Oysters. — Wash  the  oysters  and  scald  them  in 
strong  salt  and  water ;    skim  them  out  and  throw  into  cold 


RELISHES.  441 

water;  scald  whole  peppers  well  in  vinegar ;  let  it  get  cold. 
Put  the  oysters  in  a  stone  jar;  make  liquor  to  cover  them  of 
the  water  they  were  scalded  in,  and  vinegar.  A  cup  of  vine- 
gar to  one  quart  liquor,  to  be  used  cold. 

Scrambled  Eggs. — Beat  up  6  eggs  with  2  oz.  of  butter, 
1  table-spoonful  of  cream  of  new  milk,  a  little  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  salt ;  put  all  in  a  saucepan,  and  keep  stirring  over 
the  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  when  it  should  be  imme- 
diately dished  on  buttered  toast. 

FrencH  Toast. — To  1  egg  thoroughly  beaten,  put  1 
cup  of  sweet  milk  and  a  little  salt.  Slice  light  bread,  and 
dip  into  the  mixture,  allowing  each  slice  to  absorb  some  of 
the  milk,  then  brown  on  a  hot  buttered  griddle,  spread  with 
butter,  and  serve  hot. 

Breakfast  Steak. — A  nice  steak  of  beef  or  veal ;  pound  it, 
if  tough,  with  a  steak  mallet ;  lay  in  a  baking  tin,  dredge  it 
lightly  with  flour,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and,  if  you 
like,  a  little  chopped  parsley ;  then  put  into  the  oven  and 
bake  for  20  or  30  minutes,  or  until  sufficiently  well  done; 
put  it  on  the  platter,  spread  with  butter.  Dredge  into  the 
juices  of  the  meat  in  the  baking  pan  a  little  flour,  and  sea- 
son with  butter ;  let  this  boil  up  and  pour  over  the  steak. 
This  is  very  nice. 

A  Nice  Breakfast  Dish. — Mince  cold  beef  or  lamb;  if 
beef,  put  in  a  pinch  of  pulverized  cloves;  if  lamb,  a  pinch 
of  summer  savory  to  season  it,  very  little  pepper  and  some 
salt,  and  put  it  into  a  baking  dish ;  mash  potatoes  and  mix 
them  with  cream  and  butter  and  a  little  salt,  and  spread 


442  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

them  over  the  meat;  beat  up  an  egg  with  cream  or  milk,  a 
very  little;  spread  it  over  the  potatoes,  and  bake  it  a  short 
time,  sufficient  to  warm  it  through  and  brown  the  potatoes. 
Bice  Cakes. — 1  tea-cup  of  soft  boiled  rice,  the  yolk  of 
1  egg,  a  pinch  of  salt,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  beaten 
well,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  gravy ;  lay  pie  crust 
round  the  edge  of  the  platter,  and  cover  the  same;  bake  a 
nice  brown  in  the  oven. 

To  Steiv  Mushrooms. — Peel  them  and  put  them  to  stew 
in  some  milk  till  tender;  when  sufficiently  done,  add  to  them 
some  butter  and  flour  mixed  together,  a  little  cayenne,  and 
some  salt;  part  cream  instead  of  milk  will  improve  them. 

Excellent  Omelet. — 6  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  sep- 
arately; one-half  pint  of  milk,  6  tea-spoonfuls  of  corn 
starch,  1  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder,  and  a  little  salt; 
add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  last;  cook  in  a  little 
butter. 

Cheese  Scollop. — Soak  1  cup  of  dry  bread  crumbs  in 
fresh  milk.  Beat  into  this  3  eggs;  add  1  table-spoonful  of 
butter  and  one-half  pound  of  grated  cheese;  strew  upon  the 
top  sifted  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  in  the  oven  a  delicate 
brown.  An  excellent  relish  when  eaten  with  thin  slices  of 
bread  and  butter. 

White  Corn  Bread. —  1  pt.  of  meal  thoroughly  scalded 
with  hard  boiling  water;  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  1 
well-beaten  egg;  add  milk  to  make  it  just  thin  enough  to 
flow  over  the  pan.  Have  the  batter  an  inch  thick,  and  then 
bake. 


tr-G==S&>'<&^=5-* 


PUDDINGS.  443 


"fTtihbi  itcp. 


Suet  Puddings. — 2  cups  of  chopped  suet,  2  of  raisins,  2 
of  molasses,  4  of  flour,  1  of  milk,  3  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder;  boil  3§  hours;  eat  while  hot.  Sauce  for  same:  1 
cup  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  butter,  1  egg,  1  table-spoonful 
of  wine  or  vinegar;  beat  15  minutes  and  heat  to  a  scald. 

English  Fruit  Pudding. — 1  lb.  currants,  1  lb.  stoned 
raisins,  1  lb.  sugar,  1  lb.  suet,  2  lbs.  grated  or  soaked  bread,  6 
eggs,  one-half  tea-spoonful  saleratus,  1  tea-spoonful  salt,  and 
]  grated  nutmeg;  crumb  the  soft  part  of  the  bread  fine;  soak 
the  crust  with  boiling  milk,  or  water  will  do;  beat  up  the 
eggs  and  put  all  together,  mix  thoroughly  with  the  hands; 
take  a  square  piece  of  cotton  cloth  and  lay  it  in  a  tin  pan, 
put  the  pudding  into  the  cloth  and  tie  down  close;  put  into 
a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  5  hours ;  as  the  water  boils 
away,  keep  adding  more. 

Chocolate  Pudding. — 1  qt.  milk,  3  table-spoonfuls  sugar, 
4  table-spoonfuls  corn  starch,  2|  table-spoonfuls  chocolate; 
scald  the  milk  over  hot  water;  dissolve  the  corn  starch  in  a 
little  scalded  milk,  and  before  it  thickens  add  the  chocolate 
dissolved  in  boiling  water;  stir  until  sufficiently  cooked. 
"Use  with  cream,  or  sauce  of  butter  and  sugar  stirred  to  a 
cream. 

Cottage  Pudding. — 1  cup  of  sugar,  1  cup  of  sweet  milk, 
1  pt.  of  flour,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  1  tea-spoon- 
ful of  soda,  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  tartar,  1  egg. 

Mice  and  Apple  Pudding. — 1  cup  rice  boiled  very  soft, 
stir  well  to  keep  from  burning;  8  large  apples,  stewed; 
press  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  mix  it  thoroughly  with  the 
rice;  add  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  butter  and  yolks  of  two  eggs 


444  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

well  beaten;  sweeten  to  taste.  Bake.  Beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  and  put  on  top.     It  is  nicer  almost  cold. 

Baked  Indian  Pudding. — 2  qts.  scalded  milk  with  salt, 
1|  cups  Indian  meal  (yellow);  1  table-spoonful  of  ginger, 
letting  this  stand  20  minutes;  1  cup  molasses,  2  eggs  (sal- 
eratus,  if  no  eggs),  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  common 
walnut.     Bake  2  hours.     Splendid. 

Sago  and  Apple  Pudding. — Boil  a  cup  of  sago  in 
water  with  a  little  cinnamon,  a  cup  of  sugar,  lemon  fla- 
voring; cut  apples  into  thin  slices,  mix  them  with  the  sago; 
after  it  is  well  boiled,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter ;  pour  into 
pudding  dish  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Orange  Pudding. — Peel  and  cut  five  good  oranges  into 
thin  slices,  taking  out  all  seeds;  put  over  them  a  coffee  cup 
of  fine  white  sugar.  Let  a  pint  of  milk  get  boiling  hot,  by 
setting  in  hot  water;  add  the  yolks  of  3  eggs  well  beaten, 
1  table-spoonful  of  corn  starch  made  smooth  in  a  little  cold 
milk ;  stir  all  the  time,  and  as  soon  as  it  thickens  pour  it  over 
the  fruit.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  and  spread  it  over  the  top  for  frosting ;  set  in 
the  oven  a  minute  to  harden.  Can  be  eaten  hot,  but  is  best 
cold. 

Floating  Island. — Put  a  quart  of  milk  to  boil,  su- 
gar, salt,  and  flavoring  to  taste;  separate  3  eggs;  beat  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth ;  drop  them  in  the  boiling  milk  from 
a  table-spoon,  letting  them  remain  half  a  second;  then 
take  2£  table-spoonfuls  of  corn  starch ;  put  it  into  the  boil- 
ing milk,  let  it  remain  5  minutes,  then  add  the  yolks,  let 
it  boil  2  minutes,  and  take  it  off  to  cool,  then  place  it  in 
a  glass  dish,  and  drop  the  whites  upon  it  with  a  spoonful 
of  currant  jelly  on  each. 


PUDDING  SAUCES  AND  PIES.  445 


*CtK><Vt44,Cl    Sci/wceo. 


Wine  Sauce. — 2  tea-cups  of  sugar,  1  tea-cup  of  butter, 
stir  to  a  cream,  beat  2  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  all  together, 
add  1  cup  of  wine,  mix  and  set  on  top  of  tea-kettle  of  boil- 
ing water.     It  must  not  be  put  on  the  stove,  nor  boil. 

Pudding  Sauce. — 2  eggs  well  beaten,  1  cup  pulverized 
sugar.  When  mixed  pour  over  1  cup  boiling  milk,  and  stir 
rapidly.     Flavor  as  you  please. 

Hard  Sauce  for  Pudding,  Rice,  etc. — Take  1  tea-cup 
sugar,  one-half  tea-cup  butter,  stir  together  until  light,  fla- 
vor with  wine  or  essence  of  lemon.  Smooth  the  top  with  a 
knife,  and  grate  nutmeg  over  it. 


Fine  Puff  Pastry. — 1  lb.  of  flour,  a  little  more  for  roll- 
ing-pin and  board,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  half  a 
pound  of  lard.  Cut  the  butter  and  lard  through  the  flour 
(which  should  be  sifted)  into  small  thin  shells  and  mix  with 
sufficient  ice- water  to  roll  easily.  Avoid  kneading  it,  and 
use  the  hands  as  little  as  possible  in  mixing. 

Plainer  Pastry. — 1  cup  of  butter,  1  cup  of  lard,  a  little 
salt,  cut  through  the  flour  and  mix  lightly  together.  Some 
cooks  mix  the  lard  through  the  flour  first,  and  then  mix 
with  water  and  roll  out.  Cut  the  batter  into  thin  sheets, 
fold  over  and  lay  aside,  cutting  off  from  the  roll  what 
is  used  for  the  bottom  or  top  crust  as  wanted. 

Lemon  Pie. — The  juice  and  grated  rind  of  1  lemon,  1  cup 
of  water,  1  table-spoonful  corn  starch,  1  cup  sugar,  1  egg, 


44<3  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

and  a  piece  of  butter  tbe  size  of  a  small  egg ;  boil  the  water, 
wet  the  corn  starch  with  a  little  cold  water  and  stir  it  in ; 
when  it  boils  up,  pour  it  on  the  sugar  and  butter;  after  it 
cools  add  the  egg  and  lemon.  Bake  with  upper  and  under 
crust. 

Pumpkin  Pie. — 1  qt.  of  strained  pumpkins,  2  qts. 
rich  milk,  1  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  2  of  ginger,  cooked 
with  the  pumpkins;  6  well -beaten  eggs,  and  1|  tea-cups  of 
sugar. 

Mince  Pie. — 3  cups  chopped  cooked  meat,  6  cups  of 
apples  chopped  fine;  make  moist  with  boiled  cider  and 
sweeten  with  molasses  or  dark  sugar;  spice  to  your  tast<- 
nsing  cloves,  cinnamon,  allspice,  and  a  very  little  black 
pepper;  put  currents  and  raisins  into  the  pies  when  ready 
to  bake. 

Another: — 3  lbs.  of  raisins,  stone  and  chop  them  a 
little;  3  lbs.  of  currants,  3  lbs.  of  sugar,  3  lbs.  of  suet 
chopped  very  fine,  2  oz.  candied  lemon  peel,  2  oz.  of 
candied  orange  peel,  6  large  apples  grated,  1  oz.  of  cinna- 
mon, 2  nutmegs,  the  juice  and  grated  rinds  of  three  lemons, 
and  one-half  pt.  of  bran  fly.     Excellent. 

Rhubarb  Pie. — 1  cup  of  stewed  pie-plant,  1  cup  of  sugar, 
1  table-spoonful  of  flour,  yolk  of  1  egg;  flavor  with  lemon; 
beat  all  together  thoroughly.  Do  n't  use  pie-plant  too  hot 
for  fear  it  will  cook  the  egg.  Bake  with  just  an  under 
crust,  and  use  the  white  of  an  egg  for  frosting. 

Cocoanut  Pit.— One-half  lb.  of  grated  eocoanut,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar,  6  ounces  of  butter,  5 
eggs  (the  whites  only),  2  table-spoonfuls  rose-water,  1  tea- 
spoonful  nutmeg.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  beat  till 
very  light,  and  add  the  rose-water;  then  add  the  cocoanut 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PIES. 


447 


with  as  little  and  light  beating  as  possible;  final ly  whip  in 
the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs  with  a  few  skillful  strokes 
and  bake  at  once  in  open  shells.  Eat  cold  with  powdered 
sugar  sifted  over  them.  These  are  very  pretty  and  delicic  >us 
pies. 

Cream  Pie. — Boil  nearly  1  pint  of  new  milk;  take  2 
small  table-spoonfuls  of  corn  starch  beaten  with  a  little  milk 
to  this  add  2  eggs;  when  the  milk  has  boiled,  stir  this  in 
slowly  with  1  scant  tea-cup  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  butter, 
and  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon.  Cakes:  3  eggs,  1  cup  of 
white  sugar,  1-J-  cups  of  flour,  1  tea-spoonful  of  baking 
powder,  mix  it  in  flour;  3  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water; 
bake  in  two  pie  pans  in  a  quick  oven;  split  the  cake  while 
hot,  and  spread  in  the  cream. 

Cranberry  Tart. — Take  cranberries,  pick  and  wash 
them  in  several  waters,  and  put  them  into  a  dish  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist  sugar 
or  pounded  loaf  sugar  to  1  qt.  of  cranberries;  cover  it  with 
puff  paste  or  short  crust,  and  bake  it  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  If  short  crust  is  used,  draw  it  from  the  oven  5 
minutes  before  it  is  done,  and  ice  it;  return  it  to  the  oven, 
and  send  it  to  the  table  cold. 

Custard  Pie. — Make  a  custard  of  the  yolks  of  3  eggs 
with  milk,  season  to  taste;  bake  it  in  an  ordinary  crust; 
put  it  in  a  brick  oven,  that  the  crust  may  not  be  heavy, 
and  as  soon  as  that  is  heated  remove  it  to  a  place  in  an 
oven  of  a  more  moderate  heat,  that  the  custard  may  bake 
slowly  and  not  curdle;  when  done,  beat  the  whites  to  a 
froth;  add  sugar  and  spread  over  the  top,  and  return  to  th. ■ 
oven  to  brown  slightly;  a  small  pinch  of  salt  added  to  a  cus- 
tard heightens  the  flavor;  a  little  soda  in  the  crust  prevents 
it  from  beino;  heavy.     Very  nice. 


448  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Rice  Custard. — To  half  a  cup  of  rice,  add  1  qt.  of  milk 
and  a  little  salt;  steam  1  hour,  or  until  quite  soft;  beat  the 
yolks  of  4  eggs  with  4  table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar;  add 
this  just  before  taking  off  the  rice;  stir  in  thoroughly,  but 
do  not  let  it  boil  any  more ;  flavor  with  vanilla.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  with  sugar ;  after  putting 
the  mixture  into  the  pudding  dish  in  which  you  serve  it, 
put  the  whites  over  it,  and  let  it  slightly  brown  in  the  oven. 

Boiled  Custard. — 2  table-spoonfuls  of  corn  starch  to  1 
qt.  of  milk;  mix  the  corn  starch  with  a  small  quantity  of 
the  milk  and  flavor  it ;  beat  up  2  eggs.  Heat  the  remainder 
of  the  milk  to  near  boiling,  then  add  the  mixed  corn  starch, 
the  eggs,  4  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  little  butter  and  salt. 
Boil  it  2  minutes,  stirring  briskly. 

Apple  Custard. — Take  6  tart  apples,  pare  and  quarter 
them,  put  into  a  baking  dish  with  1  cup  of  water ;  cook  until 
tender,  but  not  to  pieces,  then  turn  them  into  a  pudding 
dish  and  sprinkle  sugar  over  to  cover  them ;  beat  8  eggs 
with  sugar,  mix  with  them  3  pts.  of  milk  and  a  little  nut- 
meg; turn  it  over  the  apples,  and  bake  25  minutes. 

Trifle. — Slice  sponge  cake  into  thin  layers  spread  with 
jam,  soak  in  brandy  or  wine;  put  into  a  deep  dish;  make  a 
thin  custard  of  1  qt.  milk  and  3  eggs;  sweeten  to  taste, 
and  pour  over  the  cake.  Take  one-quarter  pound  almonds, 
pour  boiling  water  on  them  so  as  to  remove  the  peel,  cut 
fine,  and  sprinkle  over  the  custard;  take  1  pt.  of  cream, 
whipped  and  sweetened,  and  lay  over  the  custard. 

Cocoanut  Drops. — To  one  grated  cocoanut,  add  half  its 


BREAD-MAKING.  (,49 

weight  in  sugar  and  the  white  of  one  egg,  cut  to  a  stiff 
froth;  mix  thoroughly  and  drop  on  buttered  white  paper  or 
tin  sheets.     Bake  15  minutes. 

A  Nice  Dessert  Dish, — Fill  a  quart  bowl  with  alternate 
layers  of  thinly  sliced  red  apples  and  sugar,  and  add  half  a 
cup  of  water,  cover  with  a  saucer,  held  in  place  by  a 
weight;  bake  slowly  three  hours;  let  it  stand  until  cold, 
and  you  will  turn  out  a  round  mass  of  clear  red  slices,  im- 
bedded in  firm  jelly.  For  an  accompaniment  to  a  dessert 
of  blanc  mange,  rennet  custard,  cold  rice  pudding,  or  sim- 
ilar dishes,  or  even  with  nice  bread  and  butter,  there  is 
nothing  better. 

Chocolate  Caramels. — 1  cup  of  grated  chocolate,  3  cups 
of  sugar,  1  cup  of  molasses,  1  cup  of  milk,  and  a  small  piece 
of  butter.  Boil  for  about  20  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time ; 
pour  into  a  buttered  pan,  and  when  nearly  cold  mark  off  in 
small  squares. 

Cliarlotte  Russe. — Take  1  qt.  of  thin  cream,  sweeten  and 
flavor,  whip  the  cream  until  all  is  a  froth ;  then  take  half  a 
box  of  gelatine,  put  in  as  little  cold  water  as  possible  to  soak, 
and  set  on  the  stove  to  melt;  let  the  gelatine  cool  before 
putting  into  the  "cream.  Have  a  dish  ready  lined  with 
cake  or  lady-fingers,  pour  the  cream  into  it.  and  set  on  ice 
until  ready  for  use. 

In  the  composition  of  good  bread  there  are  three  impor- 
tant requisites, — good  flour,  good  yeast,  and  strength  to 
knead  it  well.  Flour  should  be  white  and  dry,  crumbling 
easily  again  after  it  is  pressed  in  the  hand. 

29 


450         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

A  very  good  method  of  ascertaining  the  quality  of  yeast 
will  be  to  add  a  little  flour  to  a  very  small  quantity,  setting 
it  in  a  warm  place.  If  in  the  course  of  10  or  15  minutes 
it  rises,  it  will  do  to  use. 

When  you  make  bread,  first  set  the  sponge  with  warm 
milk  or  water,  keeping  it  in  a  warm  place  until  quite  light. 
Then  mold  this  sponge  by  adding  flour  into  one  large  loaf, 
kneading  it  well.  Set  this  to  rise  again,  and  when  suffi- 
ciently light  mold  it  into  smaller  loaves,  let  it  rise  again, 
then  bake.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  get  the  dough  too 
stiff  with  flour;  it  should  be  as  soft  as  it  can  be  to  knead 
well.  To  make  bread  or  biscuits  a  nice  color,  wet  the  dough 
over  the  top  with  water  just  before  putting  into  the  oven. 
The  flour  should  always  be  sifted. 

Yeast. — 6  good  potatoes  grated  raw,  a  little  hop  tea,  1 
qt.  of  boiling  water,  three-fourths  cup  of  brown  sugar,  one- 
half  tea-spoonful  of  salt;  when  cold,  add  yeast  to  make  it 
rise.     Keep  it  covered  and  in  a  cool  place. 

Another. — Put  2  table-spoonfuls  of  hops  into  a  muslin 
bag  and  boil  them  in  3  qts.  of  water  for  a  few  minutes; 
have  ready  1  qt.  of  hot  mashed  potatoes,  put  in  1  cup  of 
flour,  1  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  1  of  salt;  pour  over  the 
mixture  the  boiling  hop  water,  strain  through  a  colander, 
put  1  pt.  or  less  of  fresh  baker's  yeast,  or  2  cakes  of  yeast, 
in  while  it  is  warm,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  This 
yeast  will  keep  8  or  4  weeks,  if  set  in  a  cool  place.  In  mak- 
ing it  from  time  to  time,  use  a  bowl  of  the  same  to  raise  the 
fresh  with. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. — To  make  1  loaf:  Rye  meal  un- 
sifted, half  a  pt. ;  Indian  meal  sifted,  1  pt. ;  sour  milk  1  pt. ; 
molasses  half  a  gill.     Add  1  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  1  tea-spoon- 


BBEAD-MAKING.  45 1 

fill  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water,  stir  well,  put  in 
a  greased  pan,  let  it  rise  1  hour,  and  steam  4  hours. 

Bread. — Take  4  qts.  of  sifted  flour,  1  tea-cupful  of  yeast, 
a  pinch  of  salt,  and  wet  with  warm  milk  and  water  till  stiff 
enough  to  knead.  Work  it  on  the  board  until  it  requires  no 
more  flour.  If  made  at  night  the  bread  will  be  liffht  enough 
to  work  over  and  put  in  pans  early  in  the  morning.  This 
quantity  will  make  two  large  loaves.  One-third  of  the 
lump  may  be  taken  for  rolls,  which  can  bo  made  by  work- 
ing in  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  setting  aside  to  rise 
again;  when  light  the  second  time  make  out  in  oblong 
shapes;  cover  them  with  a  cloth  and  let  them  rise  again. 
As  soon  as  they  break  apart,  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  They 
will  not  fail  to  be  nice  if  they  are  baked  as  soon  as  they 
seam.  This  is  the  great  secret  of  white,  flaky  rolls.  Two 
or  three  potatoes  will  improve  the  bread.  Good  housekeep- 
ers always  have  flour  sifted  in  readiness  for  use,  and  never 
use  it  in  any  other  way. 

Muffins. — 1  table-spoonful  of  butter,  2  table-spoonfuls 
sugar,  2  eggs;  stir  all  together;  add  1  cup  of  sweet  milk, 
3  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  flour  to  make  a  stiff  bat- 
ter.    Bake  20  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Waffles. — 1  qt.  of  sweet  or  sour  milk,  4  eggs,  two- thirds 
of  a  cup  of  butter,  one-half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  3  tea-spoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder ;  flour  enough  to  make  a  nice  batter. 
If  you  use  sour  milk  leave  out  the  baking  powder  and  use  2 
tea-spoonfuls  of  soda.     Splendid. 

Corn  Bread. — One-half  pt.  of  buttermilk,  one-half  pt. 
of  sweet  milk,  sweeten  the  sour  milk  with  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda;  beat  2  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  together; 
pour  the  milk  into  the  eggs,  then  thicken  with  about  9  table- 


452  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

spoonfuls  of  sifted  corn  meal.  Put  the  pan  on  the  stove 
with  a  piece  of  lard  the  size  of  an  egg ;  when  melted,  pour 
it  in  the  batter.  By  stirring  this  lard  it  will  grease  the  pan 
to  bake  in.     Add  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Graham  Biscuits. — 1  qt.  of  Graham  flour,  oh  heaping 
tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  1  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  1 
of  butter.     Make  into  soft  dough  with  milk. 

Soda  Biscuits. — To  each  qt.  of  flour  add  1  table-spoon- 
ful of  shortening,  one-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  3|  heap- 
ing tea-spoonfuls  of  good  baking  powder;  mix  baking 
powder  thoroughly  through  the  flour,  then  add  the  other 
ingredients.  Do  not  knead,  and  bake  quick.  To  use 
cream  tartar  and  soda,  take  the  same  proportions  without 
the  baking  powder,  using  instead  2  heaping  tea-spoonfuls 
cream  tartar  and  1  of  soda.  If  good  they  will  bake  in  five 
minutes. 

Strawberry  Shortcake. — Make  good  biscuit  crust,  bake 
in  two  tins  of  same  shape  and  size,  mix  berries  with  plenty 
of  sugar,  open  the  shortcake,  butter  well  and  place  the  berries 
in  layers,  alternated  with  the  crust;  have  the  top  layer  of 
berries,  and  over  all  put  charlotte  russe  or  whipped  cream. 

Orange  Shortcake. — Make  a  nice  shortcake,  spread  in 
layers  of  sliced  oranges  with  sugar  and  a  little  cream.  To 
be  eaten  with  sweetened  cream. 

Apple  Fritters. — 1  tea-cupful  of  sweet  milk,  1  table- 
spoonful  of  sweet  light  dough,  dissolved  in  milk,  3  eggs 
beaten  separately,  1  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  lj  tea-cupfuls  of 
flour,  1  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
and  peeled  apples  sliced  without  the  core.  Drop  into  hot 
lard  with  a  piece  of  apple  in  each  one,  and  sprinkle  with 
powdered  or  spiced  sugar.  Let  them  stand  after  making 
and  they  will  be  lighter.     Good. 


BREAD-MAKING.  453 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — 1  qt.  of  buckwheat  flour,  one-half 
a  tea-cupful  of  corn  meal  or  wheat  flour,  a  little  salt,  and 
2  table-spoonfuls  of  syrup.  "Wet  these  with  cold  or  warm 
water  to  a  thin  batter,  and  add,  lastly,  4  good  table-spoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder. 

Fritters. — 1  pt.  sweet  milk,  4  eggs,  1  qt.  flour  and  3 
tea-spoonfuls  baking  powder  sifted  together.  Serve  warm 
with  maple  syrup. 

Rolls. — To  the  quantity  of  light  bread  dough  that  you 
would  take  for  twelve  persons,  add  the  white  of  1  egg  well 
beaten,  2  table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  and  2  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter ;  work  these  thoroughly  together ;  roll  out  about 
one-half  an  inch  thick;  cut  the  size  desired,  and  spread  one 
with  melted  butter  and  lay  another  upon  the  top  of  it. 
Bake  delicately,  when  they  have  risen. 

French  Rolls. — 1  qt.  flour,  2  eggs,  one-half  pt.  milk,  1 
table-spoonful  of  yeast,  knead  well ;  let  it  rise  till  morning. 
Work  in  1  oz.  of  butter  and  mold  in  rolls;  bake  imme- 
diately. 

Cream,  Cakes. — 6  eggs,  beaten  separately,  one-half  pt.  of 
sour  cream,  1  pt.  of  sweet  milk,  1  and  one-half  tea-spoonfuls 
of  baking  powder,  flour  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter;  bake 
in  cups. 

Mush. — Indian  or  oatmeal  mush  is  best  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  Put  fresh  water  in  a  kettle  over  the  fire  to 
boil,  and  put  in  some  salt;  when  the  water  boils,  stir  in 
handful  by  handful  corn  or  oatmeal  until  thick  enough  for 
use.  In  order  to  have  excellent  mush,  the  meal  should  be 
allowed  to  cook  well,  and  long  as  possible  while  thin,  and 
before  the  final  handful  is  added.  When  desired  to  be  fried 
for  breakfast,  turn  into  an  earthen  dish  and  set  away  to 


454         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

cool.     Then  cut  in  slices  when  you  wish  to  fry;  dip  each 
piece  in  beaten  eggs  and  fry  on  a  hot  griddle. 

In  making  cake,  it  is  very  desirable  that  the  materials  be 
of  the  finest  quality.  Sweet,  fresh  butter,  eggs,  and  good 
flour  are  the  first  essentials.  The  process  of  putting  together 
is  also  quite  an  important  feature,  and  where  other  methods 
are  not  given  in  this  work  by  contributors,  it  would  be  well 
for  the  young  housekeeper  to  observe  the  following  direc- 
tions :  Never  allow  the  butter  to  oil,  but  soften  it  by  putting 
it  in  a  moderately  warm  place  before  you  commence  other 
preparations  for  your  cake ;  then  put  it  into  an  earthen  dish 
(tin,  if  not  new,  will  discolor  your  cake  as  you  stir  it)  and  add 
your  sugar;  beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the  milk,  and  lastly  the  beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs  and  flour.  Spices  and  liquors  may  be  added  after 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  are  put  in,  and  fruit  should  be  put  in 
with  the  flour. 

The  oven  should  be  pretty  hot  for  small  cakes,  and  mod- 
erate for  larger.  To  ascertain  if  a  large  cake  is  sufficiently 
baked,  pierce  it  with  a  broom-straw  through  the  center;  if 
done,  the  straw  wall  come  out  free  from  dough ;  if  not  done, 
dough  will  adhere  to  the  straw.  Take  it  out  of  the  tin 
about  fifteen  minutes  after  it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  not 
sooner,  and  do  not  turn  it  over  on  the  top  to  cool. 

Icing. — The  following  rules  should  be  observed  where 
boiled  icing  is  not  used: — 

Put  the  whites  of  your  eggs  in  a  shallow  earthen  dish, 


RECIPES  FOE  CAKE.  4; 


and  allow  at  least  a  quarter  of  a  lb.,  or  sixteen  table-spoon- 
fuls, of  the  finest  white  sugar  for  each  egg.  Take  part  of 
the  sugar  at  first  and  sprink.]«  over  the  eggs ;  beat  them  for 
about  half  an  hour,  stirring  in  gradually  the  rest  of  the 
sugar,  then  add  the  flavor.  If  you  use  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
allow  more  sugar.  Tartaric  acid  and  lemon  juice  whiten 
icing.  It  may  be  shaded  a  pretty  pink  with  strawberry 
syrup,  or  colored  yellow  by  putting  the  juice  and  rind  of  a 
lemon  in  a  thick  muslin  bag  and  squeezing  it  hard  into  the 
egg  and  sugar. 

If  the  cake  is  well  dredged  with  flour  after  baking,  and 
then  carefully  wiped  before  the  icing  is  put  on,  it  will  not 
run,  and  can  be  spread  more  smoothly.  Put  frosting  on  the 
cake  in  large  spoonfuls,  commencing  at  the  center,  then 
spread  it  over  the  cake  with  a  large  knife,  dipping  it  occa- 
sionally in  cold  water.  Dry  the  frosting  on  the  cake  in  a 
cool  dry  place. 

Boiled  Icing. — 1  pt.  granulated  sugar,  moisten  thor- 
oughly with  water  sufficient  to  dissolve  it  when  heated,  and 
let  it  boil  until  it  threads  from  the  spoon,  stirring  often; 
while  the  sugar  is  boiling,  beat  the  whites  of  2  eggs  till  they 
are  firm,  then  when  thoroughly  beaten,  turn  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  when  the  sugar  is  boiled,  turn  it  over  the 
whites,  beating  all  together  rapidly  until  of  the  right  con- 
sistency to  spread  over  the  cake.  Flavor  with  lemon,  if  pre- 
ferred.    This  is  sufficient  for  two  loaves. 

Chocolate  Cake. — 1   cup  of  butter,  1  cup  of  milk,  3  cups 
of  sugar,  4  cups  of  flour,  6  eggs,  1  tea-spoonful  of  soda.  2 
tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;   bake  in  layers  like  jelly 
cake.     Icing  for  cake,  to  place  between:  1  cup  of  sugar,  1 
cake  of  chocolate,  and  the  whites  of  2  eggs  whipped  together 


456  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Cocoanut  Cake. — 1  cup  of  butter,  3  of  sugar,  1  of  milk, 
4  of  flour,  1  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  2  of  cream  of  tartar,  5 
eggs;  bake  in  layers  like  jelly  cake.  Icing  to  place  be- 
tween the  layers :  Half  a  lb.  of  white  sugar  to  the  whites  of 
2  eggs,  whip  the  eggs,  add  the  grated  cocoanut,  and  place 
between  the  layers. 

Wedding  Cake. — 5  lbs.  of  seeded  raisins,  2  lbs  of  cur- 
rants, 1  lb.  of  citron,  12  eggs,  1  lb.  of  butter,  1  lb.  of  sugar 
(brown),  1  coffee-cup  of  molasses,  a  little  brandy,  1  tea-cup 
of  spices. 

Cheap  Good  Cake. — 1  cup  of  sugar,  one-fourth  cup  of 
butter,  three-fourths  cup  of  cold  water,  If  cups  of  flour, 
whites  of  2  eggs,  1  tea-spoonful  of  lemon,  baking  powder 
used. 

Gold  Cake. — One-half  cup  of  butter,  2  cups  of  sugar, 
one-half  cup  of  milk,  3  of  flour,  3  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking 
powder,  and  yolks  of  4  eggs. 

For  the  silver  cake  use  the  same  recipe,  only  in  place  of 
the  yolks  of  eggs  use  the  whites  of  4  eggs. 

For  marble  cake,  same  recipe,  using  1  cup  of  brown 
sugar,  1  cup  of  molasses,  and  some  spices,  and  drop  it  in  the 
dish  on  the  white  cake  or  silver  recipe. 

Jelly  Cake. — 3  eggs,  1  small  tea-cupful  of  sugar,  1  cup 
of  flour,  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  beaten  together;  flavor, 
and  bake  in  2  layers,  in  a  quick  oven. 

Fruit  Cake. — 2  lbs.  of  stoned  raisins,  2  lbs.  of  currants, 
1  lb.  of  butter,  1  lb.  of  sugar,  1\  lbs.  of  flour,  10  eggs,  1 
wine-glass  of  brandy,  1  wine-glass  of  wine,  1  table-spoonful 
of  cloves,  1  table-spoonful  of  allspice,  2  table-spoonfuls  of 
cinnamon,  1  nutmeg,  1  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  almond  meats 
blanched  and  cut  in  slices,  2  oz.  of  candied  lemon,  2  oz.  of 


RECIPES  FOR  CAKE.  4.") 7 

citron;  a  little  molasses  improves  it,  nearly  a  tea-cupful; 
flour  the  fruit,  using  that  weighed  out  for  the  cake ;  put  a 
half  tea-spoonful  of  soda  or  1  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder 
with  it  on  the  fruit;  bake  3  hours,  slowly. 

Frosting  for  Cake. — 1  cup  frosting  sugar,  2  table-spoon 
fuls  of  water,  boiled  together ;  take  it  off  the  stove  and  stir 
in  the  white  of  1  egg  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth ;  stir  all  together 
well ;  then  frost  your  cake  with  it,  and  you  will  never  want 
a  nicer  frosting  than  this. 

Cream  Filled  Cakes. — These  delicious  cakes  are  very 
easily  made  if  care  is  taken  to  have  the  water  boiling. 
Measure  out  one-half  pt.  and  put  in  a  small  kettle;  immedi- 
ately after  it  comes  to  a  boil  again  put  in  two-thirds  of  a 
cup  of  butter  and  1  and  one-half  cups  of  flour;  stir  briskly 
for  a  moment,  leaving  it  over  the  fire ;  remove  this  mixture 
and  place  in  a  dish  where  it  will  get  entirely  cold;  beat  5 
large  fresh  eggs  very  thoroughly,  then  stir  in  your  cold 
mixture  a  spoonful  at  a  time;  stir  it  all  until  smooth  and 
free  from  lumps ;  drop  them  upon  a  greased  dripping-pan  in 
small  pear-shaped  cakes;  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  real  hot 
oven;  don't  be  afraid  they  will  burn  unless  you  see  them 
doing  so.  When  done  they  will  be  hollow  inside,  of  a  bright 
brown  color ;  if  not  well  done  they  will  flatten.  The  oven 
must  be  hot  when  you  put  them  in,  and  if  kept  so  success  is 
sure. 

Filling  or  Cream :  Put  a  little  more  than  1  pt.  of  milk 
in  a  pail  and  set  it  in  boiling  water;  beat  2  eggs,  two-thirds 
cup  of  corn  starch,  one  full  cup  sugar,  one-half  tea-spoonful 
salt,  and  some  vanilla,  thoroughly  together;  add  a  full  half 
cup  of  milk,  and  stir  all  into  yoar  boiling  milk;  it  should  be 
very  thick;  cut  open  your  cakes  near  the  bottom  and  fill 
very  full  of  cream;  be  sure  the  cream  is  cold. 


458  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

efces<. 

Glittering  squares  of  colored  ice, 

Sweetened  with  syrups,  tinctured  with  spice  ; 

Creams,  and  cordials,  and  sugared  dates  ; 

Syrian  apples,  Othmanee  quinces, 

Limes  and  citrons  and  apricots, 

And  wines  that  are  known  to  Eastern  princes. 

And  all  that  the  curious  palate  could  wish, 

Pass  in  and  out  of  the  cedarn  doors. — T.  B.  Aldrich. 

Directions  for  Freezing. — Use  1  part  of  coarse  table 
salt  to  2  parts  of  ice  broken  into  pieces  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut.  This  should  be  firmly  packed  around 
the  cream  pail  to  the  height  of  the  freezer.  For  3  pints  of 
cream,  1|  pints  of  water  should  be  poured  over  the  ice  in 
the  freezer,  and  for  every  additional  quart  of  cream  1  pint 
of  water  should  be  added  to  the  ice  after  packing.  When 
there  is  no  ice-cream  freezer  convenient,  ices  may  be  frozen 
by  putting  the  cream  to  be  frozen  in  a  tin  pail  with  a  close 
cover.  The  ice  and  salt  for  packing  may  be  put  into  a  larger 
pail  and  packed  firmly  around  the  pail  of  cream  to  be  frozen. 
Let  this  stand  to  chill  for  20  or  30  minutes,  then  remove  the 
cover  and  stir  the  freezing  mixture  within  until  stiff.  Then 
repack,  cover  the  whole  closely  with  a  woolen  cloth  or  car- 
pet and  leave  for  an  hour  or  two  in  a  cool  place. 

Currant  Ice. — 1  pt.  of  currant  juice,  1  lb.  of  sugar,  and 
1  pt.  of  water;  put  into  freezer,  and  when  partly  frozen  add 
the  whites  of  3  eggs  well  beaten. 

Orange  and  Lemon  Ices. — The  rind  of  3  oranges  grated 
and  steeped  a  few  moments  in  a  little  more  than  a  pint 
of  water;  strain  one  pint  of  this  on  a  pound  of  sugar  and 


PRESERVING  AND  CANNING  FRUITS.  .*;!) 

then  add  1  pint  of  orange  or  lemon  juice;  pour  into  the 
freezer,  and  when  half  frozen  add  the  whites  of  four  eo-crS 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 

Strawberry  Ice-Cream. — Mash  with  a  potato  pounder  in 
an  earthen  bowl,  1  qt.  of  strawberries  with  1  lb.  of  sugar, 
rub  it  through  the  colander  and  add  1  qt.  of  sweet  cream 
and  freeze.  Very  ripe  peaches  or  coddled  apples  may  be 
used  instead  of  strawberries. 

Ice-Cream. — 1  pt.  milk,  yolks  of  2  eggs,  6  oz.  sugar,  1 
table-spoonful  corn  starch;  scald  until  it  thickens;  when 
cool,  add  1  pt.  whipped  cream  and  the  whites  of  2  eggs 
beaten  stiff.     Sweeten  to  taste,  flavor  and  freeze. 

"  Fruit  of  all  kinds,  in  coat 
Rough,  or  smooth  rind,  or  bearded  husk,  or  shell, 
She  gathers  tribute  large,  and  on  the  board 
Heaps  with  unsparing  hand." — Paradise  Lost. 

Bring  me  berries,  or  such  cooling  fruit 

As  the  kind,  hospitable  woods  provide. — Coioper. 

Fruits  for  preserving  should  be  carefully  selected,  remov- 
ing all  that  are  imperfect.  They  are  in  the  best  condition 
when  not  fully  ripe,  and  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are 
picked.  Small  fruits  should  not  be  allowed  to  stand  over 
night  after  they  are  picked  when  they  are  to  be  preserved 
Use  only  the  finest  sugar  for  preserving.  When  fruit  is 
sealed  in  glass  cans,  wrap  paper  of  two  or  three  thicknesses 
around  the  cans.  The  chemical  action  of  light  will  affect 
the  quality  of  the  preserves  when  perfectly  air-tight.  With 
this  precaution,  glass  cans  are  preferable  to  any  other  for 


460         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

preserving  fruit.  One-half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of 
fruit,  is  a  good  rule  for  canned  fruit,  although  many  house- 
keepers use  but  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound 
of  fruit. 

An  excellent  rule  for  canning  the  larger  fruits,  as  peaches, 
pears,  etc.,  is  to  place  them  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boil- 
ing water,  first  laying  a  cloth  in  the  bottom  of  the  steamer. 
Fill  this  with  the  fruit  and  cover  tightly.  Let  them  steam 
for  15  minutes,  or  until  they  can  be  easily  pierced  with 
a  fork,  (some  fruits  will  require  a  longer  time).  Make  a 
syrup  of  sugar  of  the  right  consistency.  As  the  fruit  is 
steamed,  drop  each  for  a  moment  into  the  syrup,  place 
in  the  cans,  having  each  one-half  full  of  fruit,  and  fill 
up  with  the  hot  syrup,  then  cover  and  seal. 

Preserved  Peaches. — Select  Peaches  of  fine  quality  and 
firm.  If  too  ripe  they  are  not  likely  to  keep  perfectly. 
Pare  and  place  them  in  a  steamer  over  boiling  water 
and  cover  tightly;  an  earthen  plate  placed  in  the  steamer 
under  the  fruit  will  preserve  the  juices  which  afterward 
may  be  strained  and  added  to  the  syrup.  Let  them  steam 
for  15  minutes  or  until  they  can  be  easily  pierced  with 
a  fork ;  make  a  syrup  of  the  first  quality  of  sugar,  and  as 
the  fruit  is  steamed,  drop  each  peach  into  the  syrup  for  a  few 
seconds,  then  take  out  and  place  in  the  cans;  when  the  cans 
are  full,  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  the  fruit,  and  seal  immedi- 
ately. Inexperienced  house-wives  will  do  well  to  remember 
that  the  syrup  should  be  well  skimmed  before  being  poured 
over  the  fruit.  We  prefer  the  proportions  of  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit  for  canning,  although  many  excel- 
lent house-keepers  use  less.  This  rule  is  excellent  for  all  the 
large  fruits — as  pears,  quinces,  apples,  etc. 


PRESERVING  AND  CANNING  FRUITS.  41;  | 

Preserved  Pears. — To  6  lbs.  of  pears,  4  lbs.  of  sugar,  2 
coffee  cups  of  water,  add  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  and  the  rind  of 
1,  a  handful  of  whole  ginger ;  boil  all  together  for  20  minutes, 
then  put  in  your  pears  and  boil  till  soft,  say  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  Take  them  out  and  boil  your  syrup  a  little 
longer.  Then  put  back  your  fruit  and  give  it  a  boil ;  bottle 
while  hot,  adding  a  little  cochineal  to  give  it  a  nice  color. 

Preserved  Apples. — Weigh  equal  quantities  of  good 
brown  sugar  and  apples ;  peel,  core,  and  cut  the  apples  into 
small  square  pieces ;  make  a  syrup  of  1  pt.  of  water  to  3  lbs. 
of  sugar,  boil  until  pretty  thick,  then  add  the  apples,  the 
grated  peel  of  a  lemon  or  two,  a  little  whole  white  ginger 
(if  liked) ;  boil  until  the  apples  are  clear  and  begin  to  fall. 

Preserved  Cherries. — Stone  the  fruit,  weigh  it,  and  for 
every  pound  take  three-fourths  pound  sugar.  First  dissolve 
the  sugar  in  water  in  the  proportion  of  1  pt.  of  water  to  1\ 
lbs.  of  sugar;  then  add  the  fruit  and  let  it  boil  as  fast  as 
possible  for  half  an  hour,  till  it  begins  to  jelly.  As  soon  as 
it  thickens  put  into  pots,  cover  with  brandied  paper,  next  the 
fruit,  and  then  cover  closely  from  the  air. 

Canned  Cherries. — Prepare  in  the  same  manner,  allow- 
ing but  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit;  after 
putting  the  fruit  into  the  syrup  let  it  scald  (not  boil  hard) 
for  10  or  15  minutes,  and  then  can  and  seal.  A  few 
of  the  cherry  stones  tied  in  a  muslin  bag  and  put  into  the 
syrup  to  scald  with  the  fruit,  impart  a  fine  flavor ;  they  should 
not  be  put  into  the  jars  with  the  fruit.  This  method  is  excel- 
lent for  use  with  all  the  small  fruits,  as  strawberries,  rasp- 
berries, and  also  plums. 

Canned  Strawberries. — After  the  berries  are  pulled,  let 
as  many  as  can  be  put  carefully  into  the  preserving  kettle  at 


462  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

once,  be  placed  on  a  platter.  To  each  pound  of  fruit  add 
three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  let  them  stand  2  or  3 
hours,  till  the  juice  is  drawn  from  them ;  pour  it  into  the  ket- 
tle and  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  removing  the  scum  which 
rises;  then  put  in  the  berries  very  carefully.  As  soon  as 
they  come  to  a  boil,  put  them  into  warm  jars,  and  seal  while 
boiling  hot. 

Quince  Preserves. — Pare,  core,  and  quarter  your  fruit, 
then  weigh  it  and  allow  an  equal  quantity  of  white  sugar. 
Take  the  peelings  and  cores  and  put  into  a  preserving  kettle; 
cover  them  with  water  and  boil  for  half  an  hour ;  then  strain 
through  a  hair  sieve  and  put  the  juice  back  into  the  kettle 
and  boil  the  quinces  in  it  a  little  at  a  time  until  they  are 
tender;  lift  out  as  they  are  done  with  a  drainer  and  lay  on 
a  dish;  if  the  liquid  seems  scarce,  add  more  water.  When 
all  are  done  throw  in  the  sugar  and  allow  it  to  boil  10  min- 
utes before  putting  in  the  quinces ;  let  them  boil  until  they 
change  color,  say  1^  hours,  on  a  slow  fire;  while  they  are 
boiling,  occasionally  slip  a  silver  spoon  under  them  to  see 
that  they  do  not  burn,  but  on  no  account  stir  them.  Have 
two  fresh  lemons  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  when  the  fruit  is 
being  put  in  jars,  lay  a  slice  or  two  in  each. 

Canned  Tomatoes. — Wash  your  tomatoes,  and  cut  out 
any  places  that  are  green  or  imperfect;  then  cut  them  up 
and  put  over  to  cook  with  a  little  salt;  boil  them  till  per- 
fectly soft,  then  strain  through  a  colander;  turn  them 
back  to  cook,  and  when  they  have  come  to  boiling  heat, 
pour  them  into  stone  jugs  (one  or  two  gallon  jugs,  as  you 
prefer).  They  will  keep  a  day  or  two  in  winter  if  all  are 
not  used  at  a  time;  put  the  cork  in,  and  have  some  canning 
cement  hot  and  pour  over  the  cork.  The  jug  must,  of  course, 
be  hot  when  the  tomatoes  are  poured  in. 


PEE  SERVING  AND  CANNING  FRUITS.  n;;; 

Artificial  Honey. — Mix  together  10  lbs.  white  sugar, 
2  lbs.  clear  bees'  honey,  1  qt.  hot  water,  half  an  ounce  of 
cream  tartar ;  when  cool,  flavor  with  2  or  3  drops  otto  of  roses 
and  sprinkle  in  a  handful  of  clear  yellow  honey-comb  broken 
up.  This  will  deceive  the  best  judges,  and  is  perfectly 
healthful. 

Grape  Jam. — Take  your  grapes,  separate  the  skin  frorn 
the  pulp,  keeping  them  in  separate  dishes,  put  the  pulps  into 
your  preserving  kettle  with  a  tea-cup  of  water;  when  thor- 
oughly heated  run  them  thorough  a  colander  to  separate  the 
seeds;  then  put  your  skins  with  them  and  weigh;  to  each 
pound  of  fruit,  put  three-fourth  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  add 
merely  water  enough  to  keep  from  burning;  cook  slowly 
three-fourths  of  an  hour.  This  is  a  delicious  jam,  and  worth 
the  trouble. 

Blackberry  Jam. — To  each  pound  of  fruit  add  three- 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  mash  each  separately;  then 
put  together  and  boil  from  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  an 
hour. 

Raspberry  Jam. — To  5  or  6  pounds  of  fine  red  raspber- 
ries (not  too  ripe)  add  an  equal  quantity  of  the  finest 
quality  of  white  sugar.  Mash  the  whole  well  in  a  preserv- 
ing kettle;  add  about  1  qt.  of  currant  juice  (a  little  less  will 
do),  and  boil  gently  until  it  jellies  upon  a  cold  plate;  then 
put  into  small  jars;  cover  with  brandied  paper;  and  tie  a 
thick  white  paper  over  them.  Keep  in  a  dark,  dry,  and 
cool  place. 

Orange  Marmalade. — Take  7  oranges  and  5  lemons;  boil 
in  water  2  or  3  hours;  throw  away  the  water,  and  open  the 
oranges  and  lemons,  taking  out  the  seeds  and  preserving  all 
the  pulp  and  juice  possible;  cut  the  rinds  in  small  strips  or 


464  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

chop  them,  but  cutting  in  strips  is  better ;  weigh  it  all  when 
this  is  done ;  then  put  3  lbs.  of  sugar  in  2  of  the  pulp,  and 
boil  slowly  till  clear. 

Siberian  Crab  Jelly. — Boil  a  peck  of  crab-apples  for  2 
hours  in  as  much  water  as  will  cover  them,  then  put  them 
into  a  jelly  bag  and  allow  to  drain,  (do  not  squeeze  them); 
to  each  pint  of  syrup,  put  1  lb.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  for 
half  an  hour.  Select  the  reddest  crabs  you  can  find,  and 
the  jelly  will  be  a  beautiful  color. 

Chocolate  Caramels. —  2  cups  of  brown  sugar,  1  cup 
molasses,  1  cup  chocolate  grated  fine,  1  cup  boiled  milk,  1 
table-spoonful  flour,  butter  the  size  of  a  large  English  walnut ; 
let  it  boil  slowly  and  pour  on  flat  tins  to  cool;  mark  off 
while  warm. 


The  bubbling  and  loud  hissing  urn, 
Throws  up  a  steaming  column  ;  and  the  cups 
That  cheer,  but  not  inebriate,  wait  on  each  ; 
So  let  us  welcome  peaceful  evening  in. 

— Cowper. 

Tea. — When  the  water  in  the  tea-kettle  begins  to  boil, 
have  ready  a  tin  tea-steeper;  pour  into  the  tea-steeper  just 
a  very  little  of  the  boiling  water,  and  then  put  in  tea,  al- 
lowing one  tea-spoonful  of  tea  to  each  person.  Pour  over 
this  boiling  water  until  the  steeper  is  a  little  more  than  half 
full;  cover  tightly  and  let  it  stand  where  it  will  keep  hot, 
but  not  to  boil.  Let  the  tea  infuse  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
and  then  pour  into  the  tea  urn,  adding  more  boiling  water, 
in  the  proportion  of  one  cup  of  water  for  every  tea-spoonful 


BEVERAGES.  4<j.-> 

of  dry  tea  which  has  been  infused.  Have  boiling  water 
in  a  water-pot,  and  weaken  each  cup  of  tea  as  desired. 
Do  not  use  water  that  has  boiled  long.  Spring  water  is 
best  for  tea,  and  filtered  water  next  best. 

Tea  a  la  Russe. — Pare  and  slice  fresh,  juicy  lemons;  lay 
a  piece  in  the  bottom  of  each  cup,  sprinkle  with  white  sugar-, 
and  pour  hot,  strong  tea  over.  Or  the  lemon  may  be  sent 
around  in  slices  with  the  peel  on.     No  cream  is  used. 

Roasting  Coffee. —  This  process  should  be  carefully 
watched  and  superintended.  The  quality  and  flavor  of  the 
coffee  depends  largely  upon  the  method  of  roasting.  When 
the  berry  crackles  and  becomes  crisp,  it  is  sufficiently 
roasted.  Just  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  roaster,  it 
should  be  placed  in  several  thicknesses  of  flannel  to  preserve 
the  oil  and  aroma.  When  cool,  place  it  in  an  air-tight 
cannister. 

Cream  Nectar. — 2§  lbs.  of  white  sugar,  one-eighth  lb. 
of  tartaric  acid,  both  dissolved  in  1  qt.  of  hot  water ;  when 
cold,  add  the  beaten  whites  of  3  eggs,  stirring  well ;  bottle 
for  use.  Put  2  large  spoonfuls  of  this  syrup  in  a  glass  of 
cold  water,  and  stir  in  it  one-fourth  of  a  spoonful  of  bicar- 
bonate of  soda.  Any  flavor  can  be  put  in  the  syrup.  An 
excellent  drink  for  summer. 

Raspberry  Acid. — Dissolve  5  oz.  of  tartaric  acid  in  2 
qts.  of  water;  pour  it  upon  12  lbs.  of  red  raspberries  in  a 
large  bowl;  let  it  stand  24  hours;  strain  it  without  pressing: 
to  1  pt.  of  this  liquor  add  1  J-  lbs.  of  white  sugar;  stir  until 
dissolved.  Bottle,  but  do  not  cook  for  several  days,  when  it 
is  ready  for  use.  Two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  in  a  glass  of 
ice  water  will  make  a  delicious  beverage. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.— To   4   qts.    red   raspberries,    pul 

30 


466  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

enough  vinegar  to  cover,  and  let  them  stand  24  hours;  scald 
and  strain;  add  1  lb.  of  sugar  to  1  pt.  of  juice;  boil  it  20 
minutes,  and  bottle;  it  is  then  ready  to  use  and  will  keep 
for  years.  To  one  glass  of  water  add  a  great  spoonful.  It 
is  much  relished  by  the  sick.     Very  nice. 

Blackberry  Syrup. — To  1  pt.  of  juice,  put  1  lb.  of  white 
sugar,  one-half  oz.  of  powdered  cinnamon,  one-fourth  oz. 
mace,  and  2  tea-spoonfuls  cloves;  boil  all  together  for  15 
minutes,  then  strain  the  syrup,  and  add  to  each  pint  a  glass 
of  French  brandy. 

Red  Currant  Wine. — For  every  gallon  of  water  take  1 
gallon  of  currants  off  the  stalks,  bruise  well  and  let  them 
stand  over  night.  Next  morning  mash  them  well  with  your 
hands  and  strain  through  a  hair  sieve.  To  every  gallon  of 
the  liquor  add  4  lbs.  of  sugar.  Rinse  the  cask  well  with 
brandy,  and  strain  the  liquor  again  when  putting  in,  by 
which  you  will  see  whether  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Lay  the 
bung  lightly  on,  and  stop  it  up  in  10  days. 


^ 


e 


S&^* 


^=^ 


<^L 


SHE  JLRT  OF  ©IYING  llMERS.   9  ^ 


J^^gj^^A. 


4§K::m:::>| 


T  has  been  said  that  the  social  progress  of  a  com- 
munity is  in  exact  proportion  to  the  number  of 
its  dinner  parties ;  and  in  all  ages  the  friendship 
of  nations,  as  well  as  of  individuals,  has  been  ce- 
mented, and  enmities  forgotten,  in  the  allure- 
ments of  dining.  It  is  an  undeniable  fact  that 
more  enduring  alliances  have  been  struck  by 
diplomatists  across  the  dinner  table  than  were 
ever  agreed  upon  in  ministerial  cabinets.  Talle- 
rand  regarded  the  dinner  table  as  the  best  place 
for  the  transaction  of  diplomatic  business.  And 
can  any  one  doubt  that  much  of  the  culture  of  the  world, 
with  all  its  elements  of  refined  manners,  intellectual  progress, 
and  taste  for  science,  literature,  and  the  fine  arts,  is  largely 
dependent  upon  the  social  gatherings  at  the  dinner  tables  of 
the  metropolitan  cities? 

The  rules  which  regulate  dinner  giving  and  dining  in 
America,  have  been  adopted  from  both  England  and  France, 

[467] 


468  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

as  they  have  been  found  to  fit  our  social  conditions ;  and  the 
dinner  giver  who  attempts  to  be  original  is  likely  to  fail,  be- 
cause he  disturbs  the  harmony  which  established  customs 
insure.  The  path  of  safety  here,  as  in  all  social  matters,  is 
the  beaten  track. 

The  first  consideration,  when  a  dinner  has  been  decided 
on,  is  a  discreet  selection  of  guests.  The  proper  limit  as  to 
numbers  will  be  decided  by  the  good  sense  of  the  host  and 
hostess,  the  size  of  the  table  and  dining-room  being  impor- 
tant considerations,  though  the  number  of  guests  should  not 
exceed  twelve.  Thirteen  is  an  ominous  number,  and  there 
are  superstitious  people  who  would  not  sit  at  the  table  when 
thirteen  were  present,  from  the  belief  that  some  fatality 
might  soon  happen  to  one  of  their  number. 

The  aim  of  the  host  and  hostess  should  be  to  bring  to- 
gether such  people  as  are  of  equal  intellectual  attainments, 
and  of  like  social  standing.  Guests  are  wanted  who  will 
affect  each  other  pleasantly.  They  need  not  be  friends,  nor 
even  acquaintances,  but  they  must  be  congenial,  and  have 
common  tastes  and  sympathies.  Good  talkers  are  invalu- 
able, and  good  listeners  no  less  so.  The  test  of  the  success 
of  a  dinner  party  is  the  manner  in  which  the  conversation 
is  sustained  at  the  table.  A  constant  flow  of  talk  and  mer- 
riment is  proof  that  the  guests  have  been  wisely  chosen, 
while  embarrassing  halts  and  dead  pauses  in  conversation 
denote  that  they  are  not  in  sympathy  with  one  another. 

The  invitations  are  issued  in  the  name  of  the  host  and 
hostess  from  three  to  ten  days  in  advance.  They  are  sent 
by  messenger,  and  not  by  mail,  only  when  the  distance  is 
too  great  to  send  a  trusty  servant.  An  invitation  to  a  din- 
ner party  requires  a  prompt  answer,  and  if  it  is  accepted 


DINNER  INVITATION.  469 

the  engagement  must  be  sacredly  kept,  as  the  non-arrival  of 
a  guest  means  an  empty  chair  at  the  table,  a  lady  with- 
out an  escort,  or  a  gentleman  without  a  lady.  If  in  doubt, 
it  is  better  to  decline;  but  if  an  invitation  has  been  ac- 
cepted, and  an  insurmountable  obstacle  intervenes,  an  ex- 
planation must  be  made  at  once,  so  that  the  vacant  place  in 
the  little  circle  may  be  filled. 

The  following  is  the  form  of  the  invitation : — 


JM.  and  Jfflfo;  Wiffiam  Miction 

tmiwd  tfie  fUeabuU  of  Jttl.  and  JWv>.  Jfowaid  gindail'z 

com f tan  if  at  dinnci,  on  Wednesday,  Jan- 

uatif  26,  at  6even  o'clock. 

2S  Lafayette  Avenue. 

The  day  of  the  week  and  the  hour  are  written  in  full, 
but  figures  may  be  used  for  the  day  of  the  month. 

If  the  dinner  is  given  in  honor  of  some  friend  or 
stranger,  a  second  card  is  inclosed  in  the  envelope  with  the 
invitation  on  which  is  inscribed: — 

3?o  meet 

Jfflt,.  ^Bmjamm  Witfiei, 
of  Mw  Vol  ft  (pity. 


470  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

The  following  is  a  good  form  for  an  acceptance,  which 
must  be  sent  immediately: — 

JM.  and  JWu>.  ctfouwld  ^inctkUl 

awefU  tmtfi  fifeazule  tfie  invitation  of  JM.  and  JfflU* 

WiUiam  cfiie&ton,  to  dinncl,  at  &ewn  o'cfocfi, 

on  Wednesday,  Janualy  26. 

If  the  invitation  cannot  be  accepted,  the  persons  invited 
send  a  reply  immediately  with  regrets,  and  state  reasons  of 
their  inability  to  accept,  which  may  be  either  on  account  of 
sickness  in  the  family,  intended  absence,  or  some  previous 
engagement. 

Guests  may  arrive  any  time  during  the  half  hour  be- 
fore the  time  appointed  for  dinner.  This  interval  gives 
time  for  introductions  and  greetings.  To  delay  beyond  the 
appointed  hour  is  unpardonable  rudeness.  Fifteen  minutes 
is  the  longest  time  a  hostess  is  required  to  wait  for  a  tardy 
comer. 

She  is  an  excellent  hostess  who  can  make  conversation 
general  before  dinner.  "  To  this  end,"  says  one  writer,, 
"have  some  novelty  at  hand,  either  in  the  shape  of  a  per- 
sonage whom  every  guest  wants  to  meet,  or  a  new  picture, 
bric-a-brac,  a  rare  plant,  the  latest  spiciest  news  to  tell,  or 
a  pretty  girl  to  bring  forward."  "  Whatever  the  attraction, 
present  it  early,  to  prevent  monotoney,  and  if  the  half  or 
quarter  hour  before  the  guests  assemble  around  the  table  can 
be  so  used  as  to  bring  them  upon  easy  terms  with  one  an- 
other, the  success  of  the  dinner,  in  a  social  way,  is  more  than 
half  established." 


EN  Ti:  l!  T.  I  /  NMEN  T  .  I  T  T.  II'.L  E.  47  [ 

Among-  her  other  duties,  the  hostess  has  takeD  into  con- 
sideration the  arrangement  of  her  guests  at  the  table,  with 
a  view  of  having  them  paired  off  to  their  mutual  advantage 
and  to  the  pleasure  of  all  concerned,  so  that  when  dinner  is 
announced  the  host  and  hostess  quietly  intimate  to  the  dif- 
ferent gentlemen  whom  they  are  toescort  to  the  table.  "  M  r. 
Power,  will  you  be  so  kind  as  to  escort  Miss  Strong  to  din- 
ner? Mr.  Sharp,  please  look  after  the  interests  of  Mrs. 
Keene,  and  Mr.  Keene,  you  may  do  the  agreeable  to  Mrs. 
Sharp,  that  will  be  a  keen  sharp  trade  all  around.  Mr. 
Wright,  suppose  you  finish  telling  that  little  story  to  Miss 
Straight  at  the  table,"  and  so  on.  If  the  dinner  is  given  in 
honor  of  some  lad}'  guest,  the  host  offers  her  his  arm  and 
goes  out  first,  and  the  hostess  last.  On  the  other  hand,  if 
the  honored  guest  be  a  gentleman,  he  escorts  the  hostess,  and 
they  lead  the  way,  and  the  host  follows  the  company.  The 
hostess  having  already  arranged  the  places  at  the  table  for 
each  guest,  and  placed  a  card  with  the  name  written  upon  it, 
on  each  of  the  plates,  the  guests  have  no  difficulty  in 
finding  their  respective  seats  at  table.  This  method  is  now 
used  at  private  dinners,  having  long  been  the  custom  at 
public  dinners. 

The  e-entleman  offers  his  right  arm  to  the  lady  he  escorts 
to  dinner,  and  seats  her  on  his  left  hand  at  the  table.  On 
reaching  their  places,  he  draws  out  the  chair  for  her,  and 
allows  her  to  be  seated  before  he  seats  himself.  The  honored 
guest,  if  a  lady,  is  seated  at  the  right  of  the  host;  if  a  gen- 
tleman, at  the  right  of  the  hostess.  It  becomes  the  duty  of 
each  gentleman  to  see  that  the  lady  he  escorts  to  the  table 
is  well  provided  for,  and  when;  food  is  passed  around  from 
guest  to  guest,  to  allow  her  to  be  helped  before  he  helps 
himself. 


472  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Table  decorations  should  not  be  used  to  a  great  extent, 
but  should  be  choice,  when  used  at  all.  Flowers  should  be 
fine  but  few,  for  to  some  people  the  odor  of  flowers  does  not 
mingle  pleasantly  with  that  of  the  food  before  them. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  dinners  must  be  costly  and 
elaborate  to  be  enjoyable,  nor  will  guests  expect  that  a  din- 
ner will  be  other  than  commensurate  with  the  circumstances 
of  the  host  and  hostess.  Costly  dinners  are  not  necessarily 
good  dinners,  while  the  surroundings  may  be  so  agreeable 
and  cheerful,  the  table  so  tastefully  spread,  the  welcome  so 
frank,  and  the  conversation  so  bright  that  a  very  simple 
dinner  is  indeed  charming,  and  affords  the  utmost  pleasure 
to  hostess,  host,  and  guests  alike. 

No  dinner  should  be  considered  complete  without  at 
least  three  courses,  which  may  be  classed  as:  First,  soups; 
second,  meats;  and  third,  dessert  of  pastry  or  puddings. 
This  may  be  easily  doubled  up,  having  for  the  first  course, 
a  small  dish  of  raw  oysters,  or  clams;  second,  soup  or  boiled 
fish;  third,  meats;  fourth,  salads;  fifth,  pastry  and  pud- 
dings; sixth,  ices,  fruits,  nuts,  and  raisins,  with  coffee.  Be- 
fore the  dining-room  is  opened,  half  a  dozen  raw  oysters  are 
placed  in  a  small  dish  before  each  plate.  If  the  season  is 
warm,  they  may  be  placed  on  cracked  ice,  with  a  quarter 
of  a  lemon  to  each  plate.  When  oysters  are  not  in  season, 
small  clams  may  be  substituted,  in  which  case  red  pepper 
should  be  provided.  These  may  be  eaten  after  the  party 
have  seated  themselves  for  dinner.  A  dish  of  soup  or  of 
boiled  fish,  or  both,  may  then  be  served.  The  dishes  in 
which  these  are  served  being  removed,  the  meats  may  be 
served,  together  with  the  vegetables  and  substantiate,  and 
they  are  either  roast  beef,  mutton,  or  turkey.     These  may 


FRENCH  AND  RUSSIAN  CUSTOMS.  47:; 

be  followed  by  boiled  meats.  As  a  rule,  the  roast  precede 
the  boiled,  next  come  the  salads  and  entrees,  and  then  fol- 
low the  pastry  or  puddings,  and  finally,  ices,  fruits,  nuts, 
raisins,  candy,  and  coffee.  If  it  should  be  a  game  dinner,  the 
game  may  take  the  place  of  the  meats  in  the  third  course. 
This  bill  of  fare  may  be  varied  according  to  inclination  or 
circumstances.  Should  the  host  and  hostess  desire  to  in- 
clude wines  in  their  bill  of  fare,  it  would  be  well  to  remem- 
ber that  Sauterne,  or  any  light  white  wines  should  come 
with  the  oysters  before  soup,  Sherry  after  soup,  and  that 
Champagne  comes  with  the  roast.  If  wine  is  brought  on 
for  a  dessert,  champagne  is  preferable. 

There  are  two  methods  of  serving  a  dinner,  the  French 
and  Russian.  The  former  is  the  ordinary  way,  the  various 
dishes  being  set  on  the  table  to  be  carved  and  served  by  the 
host  and  hostess,  and  passed  to  the  guests,  or  handed  to 
them  by  a  servant.  The  Russian  method,  which  is  often 
adopted  for  formal  dinners,  is  for  waiters  to  serve  each 
guest  separately,  all  the  carving,  etc.,  being  done  before  the 
food  is  brought  to  the  table.  By  this  method  more  servants 
are  required,  and  it  gives  a  better  opportunity  for  the  dec- 
oration of  the  table,  if  that  is  desirable.  The  English  cus- 
tom is  to  set  all  the  dishes  of  each  course  on  the  table  at 
once,  and  then  those  that  are  to  be  carved  are  removed  to 
a  side  table  and  carved  by  a  skillful  servant.  The  advan- 
tages of  the  Russian  custom  is  that  it  leaves  host  and 
hostess  almost  as  free  as  the  guests  to  guide  and  take  part  in 
the  conversation. 

As  the  main  object  of  giving  a  dinner  party  is  enjoy- 
ment and  pleasure  for  all  concerned,  it  is  incumbent  upon 
all  to  be  in  their  happiest  mood,  and  for  each  to  do  his  or 


474         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

her  part  in  rendering  the  occasion  as  delightful  as  possible. 
Lively  and  sprightly  conversation,  and  cheerful  ways  are 
especially  desirable,  and  when  each  endeavors  to  make  all 
others  happy  about  him,  the  sociable  feature  of  the  dinner 
is  not  likely  to  prove  a  failure.  Ill-nature  should  never  be 
brought  to  a  dinner  table,  and  any  display  of  it  is  a  mark 
of  ill-breeding.  It  is  not  in  good  taste  for  two  persons  to 
monopolize  the  conversation  by  a  discussion  in  which  few 
or  none  of  the  other  guests  are  interested.  The  conversa- 
tion should  be  of  a  nature  to  be  of  interest  to  all,  or 
the  great  majority,  so  that  each  may  enter  into  its  spirit. 
If  the  dinner  party  is  a  large  one  you  may  converse  with 
those  near  you  in  a  low  tone  of  voice.  The  hostess  should 
endeavor  to  put  all  her  guests  at  their  ease,  paying  every 
attention  to  the  wants  of  all,  so  far  as  possible.  She  needs- 
self-possession  and  tact  so  that  she  may  anticipate  every 
want.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  host  to  aid  her  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, and  to  endeavor  to  encourage  the  timid,  draw  out  the 
silent,  and  direct  the  conversation,  while  others  sustain  it. 

The  table-cloth  must  be  white  and  spotless,  and  under 
it  should  be  spread  a  thick  baize  or  other  cloth  to  prevent 
the  noise  of  dishes.  Napkins  should  be  of  fine  texture,  but 
firm  and  folded  square.  The  dishes  should  be  free  from 
nicks  and  scrupulously  clean.  Flowers,  when  not  used  in 
great  profusion,  are  the  most  tasteful  ornaments  for  the 
table.  Fruit,  tastefully  arranged,  may  also  be  used  to  as- 
sist in  the  table  decoration. 

When  the  dinner  is  served  up  in  the  ordinary  way  the 
plates  and  the  dishes  to  be  served  are  placed  before  the  host 
or  hostess.  When  each  dish  is  served  into  the  plate,  it  is 
placed  upon  the  waiter's  small  salver,  who  sets  it  before  the 


MANNERS  AT  THE  TABLE.  47;, 

guest.  If  a  second  dish  is  served  in  the  same  course,  the 
waiter  presents  the  dish,  having  first  put  into  it  a  spoon,  to 
the  left  of  the  guest,  who  helps  himself.  As  soon  ;is  any 
one  has  finished  his  plate,  it  is  removed,  without  waiting  for 
the  others  to  finish.  When  all  the  plates  are  removed,  the 
next  course  is  brought  on.  The  crumb-brush  is  not  used 
until  just  before  the  dessert,  and  after  that  is  served,  the 
waiter  whose  services  are  no  longer  needed,  leaves  the  room. 
In  serving,  the  most  honored  guest,  that  is  the  lady  at  the 
right  of  the  host,  should  be  first  helped. 

At  a  dinner  party,  great  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
food  be  served  neatly ;  the  plates  should  not  be  helped  too 
abundantly  or  the  food  flooded  with  gravies,  which  many 
dislike.  To  some  people  it  is  disagreeable  to  have  a  plate 
bedaubed  with  gravy  or  scattered  food.  Food  is  passed  to 
a  guest  from  the  left,  but  water  is  poured  at  the  right  of  a 
guest.  Each  guest  should  have  ample  space  at  the  table  so 
that  he  may  eat  without  crowding,  or  being  crowded  by, 
his  neighbor.  Consequently  it  is  important  for  the  success 
of  the  dinner  that  no  more  be  invited  than  can  be  comforta- 
bly accommodated. 

9Ttcwn-cro   cl\'  tfx-c   *?9a/0ie. 

While  individual  manners  at  the  table  require  a  kind 
consideration  for  the  rights  and  feelings  of  others  which 
marks  the  true  gentleman,  there  are  details  of  behavior 
which  deserve  mention. 

Raw  oysters  must  be  eaten  with  a  fork.  Soup  should 
be  sipped  from  the  side  of  the  [spoon  and  without  noise.     A 


476  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

soup  plate  should  never  be  tilted  for  the  last  spoonful,  and 
it  should  not  be  called  for  a  second  time.     Fish  should  be 
eaten  either  with  the  fork,  or  a  fish-knife.     Salads,  cheese, 
pastry,    and  everything  that  can  be  cut  or  broken  without 
a  knife  should  be  eaten  with  a  fork.     A  knife  should  never 
be  put  into  the  mouth    during  a  meal.     Bread   should  be 
broken,  never  cut  at  the  table.     Turkey,  chicken,  and  game 
are  cut  up,  never  picked  with  the  lingers,  unless  in  the  in- 
dulgence of  a  family  dinner,  when  the  bone  may  be  held  in 
one  hand  and  picked.     Salt  must  be  taken  on  the  side  of  the 
plate  and  never  upon  the   table-cloth.     The  fork  conveys 
food  to  the  mouth  and  may  be  used  in  either  hand,  as  most 
convenient.     Food   that   cannot   be   handled  with   a  fork 
should  be  eaten  with  a  spoon.     To  help  yourself  to  butter 
or  any  food  from  a  common  dish,    with  your  own  knife  or 
fork,  is  a  gross  offense.     It  is  exceedingly  impolite  to  pick 
the  teeth  at  the  table,  or  in  the  presence  of  ladies  after  a 
meal.     If  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  tooth-pick  at  the  table,  it 
is  done  while  the  napkin  is  held  over  the  mouth.     Avoid 
making  any  sound  with  the  mouth  while  eating  or  chew- 
ing food.     Eat  slowly,  both  for  the  sake  of  health  and  good 
manners,  and  do  not  take  so  large  a  mouthful  that  you  find 
it  difficult  or  impossible  to  speak.     Do  not  lean  the  ellx>ws 
or  lay  the  hands  on  the  table,  or  play  with  knives  and  forks 
or  glasses,  or  lounge  in,  or  tilt  back,  your  chair,  or  take  a 
lounging  attitude  at  the  table.     When  you  have  finished  a 
course,  lay  your  knife  and  fork  side  by  side  on  the  plate, 
which  Is  the  signal  for  their   removal.       Never  dip  bread 
into  gravy  or  preserves. 

Refuse  fish  if  you  wish,  but  do  not  call  for  it  a  second 
time.     "When  soup  is  passed  as  the  first  course,  never  refuse 


FISH  AND  SOUP  ETIQUETTE.  477 

it,  but  you  need  not  partake  of  it  unless  you  wish  to.  Never 
apologize  to  a  waiter  for  asking  him  for  anything;  it  is  his 
business  to  serve.  Never  rebuke  a  waiter,  as  that  is  tin- 
business  of  the  host.  When  dishes  are  passed  by  one  guesl 
to  another,  help  yourself  before  offering  it  to  the  next,  as  it 
makes  confusion  and  delay  to  do  otherwise.  Never  use  the 
napkin  to  wipe  your  face  or  nose.  It  is  for  the  lips  only. 
Do  not  scrape  your  plate,  or  tilt  it  up  to  get  the  last  drop, 
or  wipe  it  with  a  piece  of  bread.  Pudding  may  be  eaten 
with  a  fork  or  spoon  as  is  most  convenient.  Ices  require 
a  spoon. 

It  is  rude  to  monopolize  the  conversation  at  the  table,  or 
to  talk  or  laugh  loud.  Boisterous  conduct  is  particularly 
ill-mannered  at  the  table.  If  a  special  delicacy  has  been  pre- 
pared by  the  hostess  for  the  dinner,  which  a  guest  does  not 
care  for,  or  which  his  health  will  not  permit  him  to  eat,  he 
may  take  a  portion  of  it  on  his  plate  and  eat  as  much  or  as 
little  of  it  as  he  pleases.  To  refuse  it  might  be  to  injure  the 
feelings  of  your  hostess.  It  is  not  regarded  in  good  taste  to 
say  much  about  the  food,  either  in  praise  or  disparagement. 
If  one  is  obliged  to  leave  the  table  before  a  meal  is  finished, 
he  should  ask  the  hostess  to  excuse  him.  Bread  should  be 
held  on  the  plate  or  near  the  table,  while  it  is  buttered,  and 
it  should  be  broken,  and  not  bitten  into.  The  general  rule 
is  that  nothing  should  be  bitten  at  the  table. 

One  should  not  sit  too  near  the  table,  nor  too  far  from  it, 
nor  drum  with  his  fingers,  nor  make  diagrams  with  his 
knife  and  fork,  nor  twirl  his  goblet,  nor  play  with  his  salt- 
cellar, nor  cough,  sneeze,  or  smack  his  lips,  nor  put  his 
elbows  on  the  table,  nor  fidget  in  his  chair,  nor  blow  in  his 
soup  to  cool  it,  nor  soak  up  gravy  with  his  bread      If   a 


478  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

plate  is  handed  you  at  table,  keep  it,  unless  you  are  re- 
quested to  pass  it  to  another.  The  host  knows  whom  he 
wishes  to  serve  first.  As  soon  as  you  receive  your  plate, 
you  are  at  liberty  to  begin  eating  without  waiting  until  all 
others  are  served,  as  is  often  done.  An  apple  may  be  held 
in  the  hand  while  paring,  and  eaten  in  small  slices  cut  from 
the  whole  fruit,  carrying  each  slice  to. the  mouth  on  the 
point  of  a  fruit  knife.  Never  bite  into  an  apple  at  the 
table. 

In  cases  where  a  person  is  in  doubt  just  what  to  do,  or 
how  to  act  at  table,  it  would  be  well  to  conform  to  the  usage 
of  those  around  him,  for  it  is  almost  impossible  to  give  rules 
or  suggest  hints  to  apply  to  all  cases  and  all  circumstances 
into  which  a  person  may  be  thrown. 

We  have  presented  some  rules  regarding  the  preparation 
and  serving  of  a  formal  dinner.  In  every  well-regu- 
lated family  the  table  should  be  prepared  daily  with  the 
same  care,  if  not  so  elaborate,  as  for  such  an  occasion. 
This  is  a  good  way  to  insure  success  for  hostess  and  servants 
when  a  dinner  party  does  come  off,  while  it  gives  the  mis- 
tress and  servants  the  luxury  of  becoming  used  to  a  nice 
style,  so  that  it  is  just  as  easy  as  common  ways,  and  no  sud- 
den visitor  can  put  them  out.  In  the  family  it  should  be 
observed  as  a  rule  to  meet  together  at  all  meals  of  the  day 
around  one  common  table  where  the  same  rules  of  etiquette 
should  be  as  rigidly  enforced  as  at  the  table  of  a  stranger. 
It  is  only  by  the  constant  practice  of  the  rules  of  good  soci- 
ety at  home  that  good  manners  become  easy  when  any  of 
them  are  invited  out  to  meet  strangers. 


tabJjE  talk.  1,79 

At  the  breakfast  table,  a  greater  amount  of  freedom  is 
allowable  than  at  the  other  meals  of  the  day.  Some  mem- 
bers of  the  family  require  to  be  off  at  an  early  hour.  Thus 
all  may  not  be  able  to  meet  together,  and  each  may  rise 
and  leave  the  table  when  business  or  pleasure  dictate.  The 
mistress  serves  the  coffee,  and  the  master  of  the  house  the 
meats,  potatoes,  etc.  Whenever  practicable,  it  is  well  to 
serve  fruits  at  breakfast,  and  they  should  be  served  first, 
followed  by  oat-meal,  or  wheaten  grits,  then  the  meats  and 
vegetables,  with  toast,  hot  cakes,  and  coffee. 

The  last  meal  of  the  day,  supper  or  "  tea,"  is  the  sim- 
plest of  the  three,  and  meats  are  mostly  served  cold,  while 
the  nicest  delicacies  of  cookery  are  served  up. 

In  some  sense,  housekeeping  is  making  the  most  of  life, 

bringing  taste  and  variety  into  it,  compassing  difficult  ends 

with   invention.     Those   who   disdain  it  lower  themselves. 

Never  think  that  any  thing  is  too  good  for    you  or    yours 

that  you  can  obtain.     Everywhere  ,there  are  people  living 

in  small  common  ways,  because  they  are  absolutely  afraid 

of  the  expense  or  the  notice  which  a  pleasanter  life  would 

brinff.     Half  the  niceties  of  life  involve  only  care  to  secure 

°  i 

them,    without  a  dollar   of   expense.     Good    manners   cost 

nothing,  good  taste  is  a  saving,  and  good  housekeeping  act- 
ually makes  money.  People  grow  refined  first  in  their  eat- 
ing. How  is  it  that  the  most  brilliant  and  clever  nation  in 
the  world  has  also  the  best  cooking?  Put  these  things  to- 
gether, and  do  your  best  according  to  their  result. 

We  present  the  following  Bills  of  Fare  for  various  meals, 
which  may  be  found  of  value  to  our  readers : — 


4S0  OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 


S^PS 


Oatmeal.  Buttered  Toast.  Beefsteak. 

Potatoes.  Hominy. 

Stewed  Apples.         Buckwheat  Cakes.  Sirup. 

Coffee.  Chocolate. 


2reaktmt  Party. 

* 
Fruits  in  Season.         Broiled  Fish.         Potatoes. 

Home  Rolls.  Beefsteak. 

Egg  Omelet.  Graham  Gems.  Celery  and  Lettuce. 

Fried  Oysters.  Cream  Nectar. 

Coffee.  Ices. 


BILLS  OF  FARE. 


481 


Soup  with  Vegetables.       Roast  Meats.      Apple  Sauce. 

Potatoes.  Turnips. 

Cabbage.  Tomatoes.  Pudding. 


Pie. 


Cheese. 


Fruits. 
Coffee.  Ices. 


Bimxsr  Partis*. 

Raw  Oysters.     Soup  with  Vegetables.     Boiled  White  Fish. 

Roast  Turkey  with  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Mashed  Irish  Potatoes.         Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Croquettes  of  Rice. 


&S93SRT. 

Cream  Custard.  Lemon  Pie.  Cocoanut  Pie. 

Fruits.  Nuts.  Coffee.  Ices. 


TJM. 

Tea,  Coffee,  or  Chocolate.  Escalloped  or  Fried  Oysters. 

Muffins.     Sliced  Turkey  and  Ham.    Cold  Biscuits. 

Sardines  and  Sliced  Lemons.      Thin  Slices  of  Bread  Rolled. 

Sliced  Pressed  Meats.  Cake  in  Variety. 

31 


482         OUR  HOMES  AND  THEIR  ADORNMENTS. 

Mtepmw  jfo.  i. 

Cold  Roast  Turkey  or  Chicken.         Ham  Croquettes. 

Fricasseed  Oysters.  Charlotte  Russe. 

Whipped  Cream.  Chocolate  Cake.  Cocoanut  Cake. 

Mixed  Cakes.  Fruit  in  Season. 

Ices.         Coffee  and  Chocolate. 


SUPPER   H0\   2, 

Cold  Roast  Fowl.         Oyster  Patties.         Cold  Boiled  Ham. 

Raw  Oysters.  Ham  Sandwiches. 

Jelly.  Ice-Cream.  Cakes. 

Assorted  Fruits.  Chocolate.  Coffee. 


*"W8. 


BgoHomigal  B/jj 

Sunday. — Roast  Beef,  Potatoes,  and  Greens.  Dessert: 
Pudding  or  Pie,  Cheese. 

Monday. — Hashed  Beef,  Potatoes,  and  Bread  Pudding. 

Tuesday. — Broiled   Beef,   Vegetables,  Apple    Pudding. 

Wednesday. —  Boiled  Pork,  Beans,  Potatoes,  Greens, 
and  Pie  or  Rice  Pudding. 

Thursday. — Roast  or  Broiled  Fowl,  Cabbage,  Potatoes, 
Lemon  Pie,  Cheese. 

Friday. — Fish,  Potato  Croquettes,  Escalloped  Toma- 
toes, Pudding. 

Saturday. — A  la  mode  Beef,  Potatoes,  Vegetables,  Suet 
Pudding,  Mince  Pie,  and  Cheese. 


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Our  Homes  akd  Their  Adornments. 


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PAGE. 

Adornments,  Simple, 

130 

Advantages  of   Story-and-a-half 

over 

One-Story  House, 

120 

An  Excellent  Floor  Plan, 

126 

Aniline  Dyes, 

369 

ANTIQUE  FURNITURE— 

Cabinets, 

279 

Hall  Benches, 

280 

Odds  and  Ends, 

279 

"  The  Chambered  Nautilus," 

281 

Appearance  Subject  to  Arrangement,    127 

Applying-  Paints, 

APPLIQUE  OR  CUT-WORK— 

Inlaid, 

On  laid, 

Instructions  in, 

Piano  Scarf, 
Aquariums  To  Grow  Water-Lilies  in, 
Arasene  Needle-Work 
Arbor,  To  Construct, 
Attracthe  Buildings, 
Attractive  Cottage  Home, 
Autumn  Leaves,  To  Preserve, 


Back  Plastering, 
Bamboo  Screens, 
Banner  Screen,  Design  for, 


170 

241 
241 
241 
255 
325 
236 
147 
37 
111 
380 

40 
268 
239 


PAGE. 

Barn,  Farm  and  Carriage,  159 
Barrel   Filter,   The   Cheap,   Durable, 

and  Effective,  73 
Bass- Wood,  How  to  Use,  44 
Bath  Tub,  84 
Bay-Window,  150 
Beads  for  Fancy  Needle-Work,  236 
Beautifying  Walls  and  Ceilings,  215 
Bed-Rooms,  Arrangement  of,  31 
Bed-Rooms,  The,  221 
Bed-Rooms,  How  to  Make  them  Cheer- 
ful, Comfortable,  and  Healthful,  204 
Bedstead  and  Drapery,  (with  illus.)  297 
Bedstead  and  Wardrobe  Combined,  292 
Benches  for  the  Hall,  280 
Best  Filter,  The,  72 
Best  Time  to  Paint,  167 
Best  Time  to  Plant,  202 
Best  Woods,  The,   and   How   to   Use 

Them,  49 

Better  Plan  for  Floors,  A,  W 

Black-Walnut,  S3 

Blackboards,  To  Make,  391 

Blanket  Stitch  Needle-Work,  237 

Bleaching,  Recipes  for,  371 

Bleaching  Powder,  372 

Bleaching  Ivory,  -"- 

[485] 


486 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Blinds  and  Shutters,  82 

Blue  Blankets,  A  Use  for  Old,  260 

Bolton  Sheeting,  235 

Brick  and  Stone  Houses,  their  Cost,  57 

Brick-Work,  163 

Bronze  for  Metals,  387 

Brushes,  Various,  172 
BUILDING  DESIGNS— 

A  Simple  Cottage,  (5  Cuts)  105 

Alterations  in  Cottage,  (2  Cuts)  111 
Neat  Story-and-a-half    House,   (3 

Cuts)  115 

Story-and-a-half  House,  (2  Cuts)  121 
Superior  Story-and-a-half  House, 

(2  Cuts)  125 

Rural  Cottage  Home,  (2  Cuts)  128 
Modern  Gothic-Roofed   House,  (1 

Cut)  130 

Solid  Gothic  House,  (3  Cuts)  133 

Farm  Residence  and  Barn,  (2  Cuts)  135 

Elegant  Brick  Residence,  (2  Cuts)  138 

Fine  Substantial  Villa,  (1  Cut)  142 

Buildings  of  Wood,  their  Economy,  39 

Buildings,  Secret  of  Attractive,  37 


Cabinets, 

279,  283 

Cabinets,  Hanging, 

292 

calcimine- 

how  to  Make, 

230 

Shade  of  Color, 

231 

How  to  Put  it  on, 

231 

Canton  Flannel, 

235 

Care  of  Trees,  and  Success  in 

their 

Culture, 

205 

CARPETS— 

288 

Ingrain, 

261 

Silk  Rag, 

261 

Prayer, 

262 

Carpenter-Work, 

77 

Carriage  Barn,  Farm  and,  (ill.) 

159 

Carriage  Painting, 

389 

CARVING  IN  WOOD— 

General  Remarks, 

351 

The  Use  of  Tools, 

352 

Tools,  (6  illustrations) 

353 

PAGE. 

A  Design  for,  353 

Instructions  in  the  Art,  354 

Carving  a  Wall  Pocket,  357 

Carved  Fret-Work,  360 

Finishing,  362 

Casing  of  Stairs,  51 

Ceilings  and  Walls,  215 

Ceilings,  Decoration  of,  223 

CELLARS— 

Excavations  for,  61 

How  to  Remedy  Wet  and  Damp,       75 

Cellar- Way  and  Piers,  65 

cements- 
How  to  Use,  403 
Causes  of  Failure  in  Using,  404 
For  Ivory,  404 
"    Jet,  404 
"    Lamps,  405 
"    Pots  and  Pans,  405 
"    Wood,  4C6 
"    Leather,  406 
"    Marble,  406 
"    China,  406 
"    Crack  in  Wood,  407 
Chinese,  407 
Fire-Proof  and  Water-Proof,  407 
India  Rubber,  404 
Jewelers',  408 
London,  405 
Stone  Masons',  407 
How  to  Test,  71 
Recipes  for,  403 
Cess-Pool  Vaults,  74 
Chairs,  282 
Cheap  but  Attractive  Houses  in  the 

Hot  Season,  143 

Chimneys  and  Flues,  66 

Chimneys,  How   to   Build  after  the 

House  is  Complete,  68 

Choice  of  Papers,  217 

Choice  of  Wall-Papers,  Hints  on,  219 

Cistern  Filters,  73 

Cisterns,  How  to  Make  Good  Ones,  70 

CLAPBOARDING,  43 

To  Measure,  166 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


487 


PAGE. 

Classification  of  Flowers, 

308 

CLEANING  FABRICS— 

General  Directions, 

398 

Best  Substances  for, 

399 

Iron  Rust  and  Grease. 

399 

Ink  Stains, 

399,  400 

Grease  from  Cloth  (2  Recipes)  399 

Acids  on  Clothes,  400 

Fruit  Stains,  400 

Lace,  400 

Furs,  401 

To  Renovate  Silk,  401 

Ostrich  Feathers,  402 

Carpets,  402 

Soap  for,  402 

Fluid  for,  403 
CLEANING  AND  SCOURING— 

Brass  and  Copper,  395 

Engravings,  395 

Dresses,  398 

Gilt  Frames,  398 

Floors,  397 

Hats,  395 

House  Paint,  397 

Jewelry,  395 

Marble,  394 

Oil-Paintings,  394 

Pearls,  394 
Piate  and  Plated  Ware,             394,  395 

Harness,  411 
Clothes-Horse,  Queer  Use  for  an  Old,  277 
COLORS— 

In  Painting,  168 
In  Graining,  176 
The  Mixing  of,  169 
For  Fences,  210 
Coloring  Straw  Hats,  370 
Combing  Ingrain  Work,  176 
Comparative  Cost  of  Building,  58 
Common  Errors  to  be  Avoided  in  Re- 
gard to  House  and  Grounds,  183 
Comfort  in  Home,  103 
Concreting,  75 
Contracting  for  Builder's  Work,  28 
Constructing  a  Rustic  House,  146 


TAOF. 

Cornices  and  Gables,  3k 
Cottage,  A  Simple,  (with  illus.)  LOS 
Cottage,  A  Summer,  To  Build,  it 
Cottage  Home,  A  Rural,  (with  ill.)  128 
Cottage  Home,  An  Attractive,  for  Peo- 
ple of  Small  Means,  111 
Counterpanes,  Silk,  245 
Counterfeit  Silver,  To  Detect,  416 
Covering  and  Decorating  Screens,  269 
Cooking  Recipes,  417 1 
Crash,  263 
Crestings  and  Finials,  81 
Crewel  Work,  236 
Crystallizing  Grass,  381 
Culture  of  Flowers,  The,  303 
CURTAINS  AND  HANGINGS— 

Various,  for  Recesses  and  Win- 
dows, 259 
How  to  Make  Them,  260 
Chinese  Embroidery,  260 
Of  Waste  Material,  261 
Of  Ingrain  Carpeting,  261 
The  Dove  Design,  262 
Prices  of  Material,  263 
Scarfs  and  Book-Case  Curtains,  264 

Dado,  The,  224 

Damp  Walls,  Remedy  for,  391 

Danger  from  Stagnant  Pools,  99 

Darkening  Glass,  391 

Darned  Work  Table  Scarf,  257 
DECORATIONS,  INTERIOR- 

General  Considerations,  213 

Aim  and  Extent,  214 
How  to  Beautify  the  Walls  and 

Ceilings,  215 
Wail-Papers,  215 
How  to  Select  the  Best,  216 
Hints  on  the  Choice  of  Papers,  219 
Papers  for  Parlor  or  Drawing- 
Room,  220 
For  the  Library,  883 
For  Bod-Kooms,  221 
For  Dining-Room,  288 
Treatment  of  Ceilings,  888 


488 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

The  Dado,  224 

Friezes,  (3  illustrations)  225 

Deodorizer,  The  Best,  378 

Descriptions  and  Specifications,    61,  70,  76 
Description  of  Material    for    Needle- 
Work,  235 
Decorating  Screens,  269 
DESIGNS— 

I,  A  Simple  Cottage  with  Succes- 

sive Enlargements,  (5  illus.)       105 

II,  Attractive  Cottage  Home  for 

People  with  Small  Means,  (2 
illus.)  Ill 

III,  A  Neat  Story-and-a-half 
House  at  Moderate  Cost,  (3 
illustrations)  115 

IV,  Story:and-a-half  House,  (2  il- 
lustrations) 121 

V,  Superior  Story-and-a-half 
House,  (2  illustrations)  125 

VI,  A  Rural  Cottage  Home,(2  illus.)  128 

VII,  Modern  Gothic-Roofed  Story- 
and-a-half  House,  (with  illus.)    130 

VIII,  A  Solid  Gothic  House,  (3  ill.)    133 

IX,  Extensive  Farm  Residence  and 
Barn,  (2  illustrations)  135 

X,  Elegant  Brick  Residence,  (2  ill.)  138 

XI,  Fine  Suburban  Villa,  (with  ill.)  142 
DINING-ROOM,  The,  222,  293 

Its  Character  and  Furnishing,  293 

Directions  for  Building,  51 

Disinfectants  for  Sick-Rooms,  377 

Distance  of  House  from  Road,  188 

Doors  and  Windows,  81 

Dove  Portiere,  The,  262 

Doyley  in  Tatting,  (cut,)  246 

Drains,  163 

Drainage,  How  to  Secure  Good,  98 

Drapery  for  Bedstead,  297 

For  Toilet-Stand,  299 

Drawn  Work,  241 

Dressing  Bureau,  296 

Driers  and  Oils,  169 

Durable  Floors,  45 
DYEING  AND  BLEACHING— 


PAGE. 

General  Remarks,  363 

Dyeing  Cotton,  364 

Mordants,  364, 370 
Recipes   and   Treatment   for    all 

Leading  Colors,  364 
Dyeing  Woolens  in  all  the  Prevail- 
ing Colors,  367 
Aniline  Dyes,  369 
Coloring  Straw  Hats,  370 
Dyeing  Feathers,  370 
To  Bleach  Sponge,  371 
To  Whiten  Lace,  371 
Bleaching  Straw  Goods,  371 

Easy  Method  of  Laying  out  Drives,         19S 

EBONIZED  Wood,  How  to  Make,  267 

Screens,  To  Make  the  Frames  of,    267 

Elegant  Brick  Residence,  138 

Elegant  Effect  at  Small  Cost  in  Hang- 
ings, 234 

EMBROIDERY— 

Frames,  241 

Border  Patterns,  (2  illustrations,)    242 
Embroidered    Pincushion,    (with 

illustration,)  242 

Silk  Counterpanes,  (2  illustrations)  244 
Silks,  236 

Tidy  on  Linen  Crash,  247 

Screens,  272 

Elegant  Designs,  249 

A  Pretty  Work-Apron,  250 

Hair  Receiver,  251 

Silk  Plush  for  Mirrors,  252 

Splasher,  New  Style,  252 

News  Rack  in  Bead  Work,  253 

Bead  Work  Table-Cover,  254 

ENCAUSTIC  TILES— 

Their  Durability,  282 

How  to  Use  them,  283 

Suitable  for  Pavements,  Mantels, 

Cabinets,  Etc.,  283 

Their  Cost,   and  How   to  Obtain 
Them,  284 

Errors  of  Common  Occurrence  in   Re- 
gard to  House  and  Grounds,  183 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


4S!> 


PAOK. 

Estimating  Work  and  Materials,               165 

Bulbs— 

PAOK. 

Excavations  for  Cellar, 

61 

Dahlia, 

813,::^ 

Excellent  Farm  and  Carriage  Barn, 

Exposure  or  Location, 

Exposure  of  a  House, 

Extensive  Farm  Residence  and  Barn 

(with  illustration) 
Extent  of  Decoration, 

159 

186 
99 

1 

135 

214 

Gladiolus, 
Calla, 
Tuberose, 
Cyclamen, 
Lily, 

Bleeding  Heart, 
Climbers— 

313 
313 

Su 
312 
812 
813 

Fan  Screens, 

275 

Clematis, 

314 

Farm  and  Carriage  Barn  Combined, 

159 

Cypress- Vine, 

3U 

Farm  Residence  and  Barn,  (illus.) 

135 

Gourds, 

314 

Feather  Stitch  in  Needle-Work, 

237 

Ipomea, 

SIS 

Feathers,  To  Dye  Various  Colors, 

370 

Maurandya, 

815 

Fences,  (with  illustrations) 

206 

Smilax, 

31". 

FILTER,  A  Valuable  Test, 

72 

Annuals  and  Perenniaib— 

Another  Plan, 

73 

Aster, 

816 

The  Barrel, 

73 

Begonia, 

316 

A  Cheap, 

403 

Camellia, 

816 

Filtering, 

72 

Calceolaria, 

817 

Finials  and  Castings, 

81 

Carnation, 

817 

Finishing  Coat— Painting, 

171 

Candytuft, 

317 

Finishing  in  Oil  and  Shellac, 

174 

Chrysanthemum, 

818 

Finishing  Inside— Wood-Work, 

82 

Fuchsia, 

818 

Fire-Proof  Wooden  Buildings, 

41 

Heliotrope, 

819 

Fire-Proofing  Shingle  Roofs, 

390 

Mignonette, 

319 

Fire-Proof  Paint  for  Wood, 

391 

Oleander, 

319 

Flax  Cloth, 

235 

Pansy, 

320 

FLOORS,  Durable, 

45 

Geranium, 

820 

A  Better  Plan  for, 

46 

Ferns, 

321 

An  Excellent  Plan  for;  (with  illusv 

126 

Phlox  Drummondil, 

821 

Flooring,  To  Measure, 

166 

Snapdragon, 

821 

FLOWERS— 

Violet, 

822 

Their  Culture, 

303 

Zinnia, 

822 

How  to  Have  Abundance  of, 

304 

Chinese  Primrose, 

822 

How  to  Have  them  all  Winter, 

328 

Roses, 

323 

Useful  Suggestions  on  Cultivation  of  304 

Petunia, 

823 

Classification  of, 

306 

Water-Lily, 

824 

How  to  Construct  the  Beds, 

ft*  r* 

OIU 

Water-Lily,  Cultivation  of  In  Tubs,  324 

List  of  Bulbs, 

311 

Water-Lily  for  Aquariums, 

32.-1 

Climbers, 

314 

Ice-Plant, 

32". 

Annuals  and  Perennials, 

316 

Balsam, 

32.'. 

Varieties  Suitable  for  all  Purposes, 

316 

Ageratam, 

326 

Window  Gardening,  (with  illus  ) 

327 

Abutilon, 

326 

The  Soil, 

305 

Flues  and  Chimneys, 

66 

490 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

PAGE. 

Formation  of  Lawns, 

190 

How  to  Select  Trees, 

205 

Foundations, 

63 

How  to  Ornament  Fences, 

209 

Foundation  of  Boulders, 

64 

Methods  of  Making  Walks, 

198 

French  Polish, 

3S7 

Permanent  Lawn, 

191 

FRET  SAWING  — 

335 

Planting  Trees, 

202 

An  Embellishment  in  Window  Gar- 

Roads and  Walks, 

189 

dening,  (with  illustration) 

330 

Style  of  Gardening, 

186 

Its  Origin, 

335 

Special  Features, 

193 

Sand-Papering, 

345 

Time  for  Removing  Trees, 

203 

Materials  Suitable  for  Use, 

337 

Terraces, 

1S9 

A  Manual  of, 

339 

Varieties  of  Shrubs,    Trees,    an 

d 

Practical  Lessons  in,  (with  illus's) 

340 

Flowers, 

194 

The  Tools  and  their  Uses,          339 

,352 

General  Considerations, 

25 

Finishing  the  Work, 

342 

Glazing, 

88 

Working  in  Metal,  Ivory,  Etc., 

346 

Good  Drainage,  How  to  Secure, 

97 

Saws,  Lathes,  Prices,  Etc., 

349 

GRAINING— 

175 

Silhouettes, 

345 

The  Tools  for, 

175 

Friendship  Cushion, 

279 

The  Ground  for, 

175 

Furnaces  and  Grates, 

91 

Ash, 

177 

Furnaces  for  Heating, 

92 

Old  Oak, 

177 

FURNITURE  DESIGNS— 

Bird's-Eye  Maple, 

177 

Hat  Rack  with  Mirror, 

2S6 

Mahogany, 

178 

Hat  and  Umbrella  Rack, 

237 

Grates  and  Furnaces, 

91 

Easy  Chair, 

289 

Grass,  to  Crystallize, 

331 

Library  Chair, 

290 

Ground  Glass  Windows,  To  Imitate, 

3S1 

Lounge, 

291 

Hassock, 

292 

HAIR— 

Bed-Room  Set, 

295 

To  Beautify  the, 

3S3 

Wardrobe  Bedstead, 

296 

Gloss, 

332 

Bed  with  Draper}-, 

297 

Oil, 

332 

Toilet-Stand  with  Drapery, 

299 

Wash, 

332 

Furniture  Varnish, 

335 

Lotion, 

3S2 

Furniture  Polish, 

386 

Brushes,  To  Clean, 

383 

Hall  Benches, 

280 

GARDEN,  The— 

Hall,  The, 

285 

Best  Time  for  Planting  Trees, 

202 

HANGINGS  FOR  DOORS,  HALLS, 

AND 

Drives  and  Walks, 

197 

windows- 

Errors  to  be  Avoided, 

183 

how  to  Make  them, 

259 

Excellent  Trees  to  Plant, 

205 

Elegant  Effect  at  Small  Cost, 

260 

Exposure  or  Location, 

186 

Old  Blue  Blanket, 

260 

Fences,  Various  Styles  of, 

206 

Portiere  of  Chinese  Embroidery, 

260 

Formation  of  Lawns, 

190 

Silk  Rag  Carpet, 

261 

General  Rules, 

183 

Ingrain  Carpet, 

261 

Gradimr  and  Terracing, 

189 

The  Dove  Portiere, 

262 

How  to  Begin, 

1S4 

Velveteen, 

262 

GENERAL  INDEX. 


491 


Smyrna  Blankets, 
Prayer  Carpets, 
Curtains, 
Prices  of  Materials, 


PAGE. 
262 
262 
263 
263 
i:64 
214 


Scarfs  and  Book -Case  Curtains, 
Harmony  in  Decorations, 
HARNESS— 

To  Clean,  411 

To  Black,  412 

Composition,  412 
Hassocks,  Embroidered  Covers  for, 

Hassock,  A  Serviceable,  (cut)  292 

Health,  Hints  on,  377 

Hearths  and  Pavements,  2S3 

Hearth  Rugs  and  Carpets,  2Si) 
HOME— 

Attractive  Cottage,  For  People  of 

Small  Means,  (with  illus.)  Ill 
A  Rural  Cottage,  (with  illus.)  128 
Plan  of  a,  that  Combines  Conven- 
ience and  Beauty,  (with  illus.)  129 
Decoration  of,  380 
Hoine-Made  Mantels,  290 
HOUSE,  The— 

How  to  Plan  a,  30 

How  to  Proceed,  30 

Kinds  of  Lumber  to  Use,  33 

Renting  and  Purchasing,  27 
Painting,                                        34,  167 

Contracting  the  Work,  28,  32 
Alterations  and  Additions  to,    107,  140 

Appearance  of,  36 

Brick  and  Stone,  their  Cost,  57 

Stone  Trimmings  for  Brick,  60 

Hardware,  88 

Heating  and  Ventilation,  91 
Measuring   of  Work,  Labor,   and 

Material,  165 

Style  of  Building,  188 

Distance  from  Road,  188 

Hall,  The,  285 

Suggestions  on  Furnishing,  2S5 

Flooring  for,  288 

Heating  Furnaces,  92 
How    to    Build    a    House   and   Make 


Mi  r. 

Additions  to  It,  107 
How  to   Prevent    Brick   Walls  from 

Sweating,  00 

ICE-HOUSE— 

To  Construct, 

Combined  with  Preservatorj  (with 

ill.) 

Ideal  Houses,  25 

Impure  Air,  How  to  Remove  It,  94 

Inks,  Recipes  for,  413 

Inlaid  Applique  Work,  241 

Ingrain  Carpet,  201 

Instructions  in  Needio-Work,  241 

Interlaying  in  Scroll-Work,  343 

Japanese  Quilt,  273,  279 

KALCIMINE  (Calcimine),  230 

Blue,  231 

Rose,  231 

Lavender,  231 

Lilac,  231 

Kinds  of  Stitches  in  Needle-Work,  237 

Kitchen,  The,  83 

Lace,  To  Whiten,  371 

Lambrequins,  (with  ill.)  277 

Lamp  Screen,  275 
LANDSCAPE  GARDENING— 

General  Rules  Applying  to  Small 

Lots,  1S3 

Errors  to  be  Avoided,  183 

How  to  B(  _  184 

Style  of  Gardening  Used,  1*6 

Exposure  or  Location,  186 

Roads  and  Walks,  189 

Grading  and  Terracing,  189 

Formation  of  Lawns,  190 

A  More  Permanent  Lawn,  191 

Special  Features,  193 
Varieties  of  Flowers,  Trees,   and 

Shrubs  to  Use,  194 

Drives  and  Walks,  (with  111.)  197 

Method  of  Making,  198 

Planting  Trees,  W 


492 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Best  Time  for  Doing  So,  202 

Time  for  Removing,  203 

How  to  Select  Trees,  205 

Excellent  Kinds  to  Plant,  205 

Fences,  Various  Styles,  206 

How  to  Make  them  Ornamental,  209 

Lathing  and  Plastering,  76 

Lathes  and  Saws  for  Fret  Sawing,  349 

Leaves,  To  Skeletonize,  380 
LESSONS    IN  FRET  SAWING  (with 
illustrations)— 

I.,  340 

H,  340 

III.,  341 

IV.,  341 

Library,  The,                                      221,  2S8 

Lime-Water,  379 

Lounge,  Useful  and  Graceful,  292 
LUMBER — Necessary  to  Erect  a  Build- 
ing— 

To  Find,  166 

To  Measure  a  Pile  of,  165 

The  Number  of  Feet  in  a  Log,  166 


MANTELS— 
Home-Made, 
Cabinets,  Etc., 

Mason  Work, 


290 

283 

62 


Materials  in  Building  a  House,  with 

their  Cost,  145 
MEASURING— 

Builder's  Work,  Labor  ,'and  Mate- 
rial, 165 
Lumber,  165,  166 
Studding,  165 
Clapboarding,  166 
Plastering,  166 
Flooring,  166 
Mineral  Paints,  168 
Mixing  Colors,  169 
Momie  Cloth  for  Needle-Work,  235 
Mordants  Used  in  Dyeing,  364,  370 


NEEDLE-WORK— 

Recent  Improvements  in, 


234 


PAGE. 

Usefulness  in,  A  Prominent  Fea- 
ture, 234 
Description  of  Materials  for,  235 
Flax  Cloth,  235 
Canton  Flannel,  235 
Momie  Cloth,  235 
Upholstery  Felts,  235 
Bolton  Sheeting,  235 
Plushes,  235 
Secret  of  Beauty  in,  234 
Satin,  236 
Crewels,  236 
Arasene,  236 
Embroidery  Silks,  236 
Beads,  236 
Kinds  of  Stitches,  237 
Stem  or  Tent  Stitch,  237 
Blanket  Stitch,  237 
Feather  Stitch,  237 
A  New  Stitch,  233 
Plush  Stitch,  233 
Applique  or  Cut-Work,  241 
Inlaid,  241 
Onlaid,  241 
Instructions  therein,  241 
Drawn  Work,  241 
Embroidery  Frames,  241 

NEEDLE- WORK  DESIGNS— 

Embroidered  Border,  Fig.  42,  243 

Embroidered  Border,  Fig.  43,  243 
Embroidered  Pincushion,  Fig.  44,    244 

Silk  Counterpane,  Fig.  45,  245 

Silk  Counterpane,  Fig.  46,  245 

Tatted  Doyley,  Fig.  47,  246 
Embroidered  Tidy  on  Linen  Crash, 

Fig.  48,  247 

Nickle  Plating,  How  to  Imitate,  388 

Odds  and  Ends  of  Antiquity,  279 

Oils  and  Driers,  169 

Oil  and  Shellac  Finish,  174 

Oil  instead  of  Varnish  for  Doors,  178 

Old  Blue  Blankets,  A  Use  for,  260 

Onlaid  Applique  Work,  241 

Open  Fire -Places,  81 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


4!»:; 


PAGE. 

Open  Joints,  and  How  to  Prevent  them,    46 
Originality,  A  Lesson  in,  2S0 

Originality  in  Furnishing,  280 

Outhouses,  l.r>7 

Overlaying  in  Scroll-Work,  314 


PAINT- 

Polish  for  Furniture, 

Economical, 

390 

Polishing  Wood  Carvings, 

362, 

3'M 

To  Remove, 

390 

PORTIERES— 

To  Destroy, 

390 

Various  for  Doors,  Halls,  and  Win- 

Fire-Proof  for  Roofs, 

390 

dows, 

259 

For  Blackboards, 

391 

How  to  Make  Them, 

260 

Compound  Fire-Proof  for  Wood- 

Of Chinese  Embroidery, 

260 

work, 

391 

Made  from  Waste  Material, 

261 

To  Prevent  Rust, 

392 

Use    of    Smyrna    Blankets 

anci 

PAINTING— 

"  Prayer  Carpets," 

262 

Best  Time  to  Paint, 

3SS 

167 

Preserving  Autumn  Leaves, 

3S0 

Kinds  of  Paint, 

168 

Pretty  Idea  in  Screen  Decoration 

270 

Colors  Used, 

168 

Principles  of  Taste, 

265 

Mixing  Colors, 

169 

Pure  Water, 

o- 

Oils  and  Driers, 

169 

Pure  White  Lead, 

168 

Applying  Paints, 

170 

Priming, 

170 

Quilt,  A  Japanese, 

273 

279 

Second  Coat, 

171 

Finishing  Coat, 

171 

Recent  Improvements  in  Needle-Work 

234 

Brushes  and  Tools, 

172, 

175 

Reception-Room,  The, 

288 

General    Suggestions  on  Outside 

RECIPES  FOR— 

Work, 

172 

Dyeing, 

364 

Inside  Work, 

174 

Bleaching, 

371 

Oil  and  Shellac  Finish, 

174 

Health, 

877 

To  Paint  Old  Work, 

3S9 

Home  Decoration, 

SSO 

Graining, 

175 

Toilet, 

8S2 

Ash  Graining, 

177 

Paints, 

888 

Old  Oak  Graining, 

177 

Staining  Woods, 

892 

Bird's-Eye  Maple  Graining, 

177 

Cleaning  and  Scouring, 

394 

Mahogany  Graining, 

178 

Cleaning  Fabrics, 

886 

Recipes  for, 

388 

Cements, 

403 

Parlor,  Library,  Etc.,  How  to  Finish, 

188 

Cooking, 

417 

Paste,  How  to  Make, 

229 

RECIPES,  MISCELLANEOUS— 

40S 

Patriotic  Screen,  A, 

274 

To  Renew  Manuscripts, 

toe 

Pavements  of  Encaustic  Tiles, 

282 

Tracing  Paper, 

COB 

Picturesque  Gothic  House,  (with  ill.) 

130 

Transfer  Paper, 

409 

Piecework,  Japanese, 

273 

To  Mend  Amber, 

109 

Pincushion  in  Embroidery, 

242 

Bronzing  Wood, 

4.  | 

Plan  for  Cheap  but  Excellent 

Farm 

To  Remove  Screws, 

410 

and  Carriage  Barn.  (2  ill.) 

159 

To  Make  Putty, 

410 

PLASTERING, 

To  Measure, 
Plates  for  Rafters, 
Plumbing  and  Fitting, 
Plushes  for  Needle-Work, 
Plush  Stitch, 


PAOK. 

76,   L6S 
288 


494 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

For  Sealing-Wax, 

411 

For  Cleaning'  Harness, 

411 

For  Harness  Blacking. 

412 

For  Harness  Composition, 

412 

To  Destroy  Bed -Bugs, 

412 

To  Make  Non -Corrosive  Ink, 

413 

For  Invisible  Ink, 

413 

For  Green  Ink, 

413 

For  Blue  Ink, 

413 

To  Make  Soap-Bubbles, 

413 

To  Prevent  Rusting, 

414 

To  Prevent  Lead's  Exploding, 

414 

To  Repair  Rubber  Hose, 

414 

To  Keep  Wagon  Tires  on, 

414 

The  Tempering  Secret, 

415 

Test  for  Counterfeit  Silver, 

416 

RECIPES— 

Dyeing  Woolens, 

367 

Ebonizing  Wood, 

267,  3S2 

Varnish  for  Common  Work, 

3S5 

Furniture  Varnish, 

3S5 

RECIPES,  TOILET— 

Hair,  To  Beautify  the, 

333 

Hair  Gloss, 

332 

Hair  Wash, 

3S2 

Hair  Lotion, 

332 

Hair  Brushes,  To  Clean, 

3S3 

Teeth,  To  Beautify  the, 

3S3 

Tooth  Powder, 

3S3 

Tooth  Wash, 

3S3 

Bloom  of  Roses, 

3S3 

Bloom  of  Youth, 

3S3 

Violet  Powder, 

3S4 

Aromatic  Vinegar, 

3S4 

Camphor  Ice, 

384 

Cold  Cream, 

3S4 

For  Rough  or  Chapped  Hands, 

334 

To  Take  Stains  off  the  Skin, 

334 

Acacia  Sachet, 

3S4 

Pot-Pourri  Sachet  Powder, 

3S5 

Remodeling' Windows, 

153 

Revolving  Ventilator,  The, 

96 

Roofs  and  Gables,  Improving  of, 

152 

Roofs  and  Trimmings, 

SO 

PAGE. 

Satin  for  Fancy  Work,  236 

Scarf  for  Book -Cases,  239 

Scarf  for  Pianos,  256 
SCREENS— 

Their  Variety  and  Uses,  266 
How  to  Make  Them,  (with  ill.)  267 
Bamboo  and  Fire  Screens,  268 
Use  of  an  Old  Clothes-Horse,  269 
Method  of  Covering  and  Decorat- 
ing, 269 
A  Pretty  Idea,  270 
Appropriate  Figures  from  Nature,  271 
A  Stationary  Screen,  271 
In  Embroidery,  272 
Old  Clothes-Horse  Screen,  277 
Japanese  Piecework,  273 
A  Patriotic  Subject,  274 
Odd  Fan,  275 
Lamp,  275 
SCROLL  SAWING,  335 
Practical  Lessons  in,  (with  ilL)  340 
Selecting  Healthy  Site,  97 
Selecting  Flowers,  304 
Sewage,  Good  System  of,  98 
Shade  Trees,  101 
Shaker  Rocking-Chair  Cushions,  248 
Sheathing  Paper,  42 
Shellac  Finish,  174 
Shingling,  42 
Shingles,  No.  Required  for  a  Roof,  166 
Shrubbery,  101 
Shutters  and  Blinds,  82 
Sick -Room,  Disinfectants  for,  377 
Silhouettes  in  Scroll-Work,  345 
Silk  Counterpanes  in  Embroidery,  244 
Silk  Rag  Carpet,  261 
Simple  Adornments  that  Add  to  Com- 
fort, 
Simple   Cottage,   A,   with    Successive 
Enlargements  [Figs.  3, 4, 5,  6]  from 
Design  I., 
Skeletonizing  Leaves, 
Soil  for  the  Flower  Garden, 
SOLID  GOTHIC  HOUSE— 

Description  of  the  Plan,  (with  ill.)  132 


130 


105 
380 
305 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


40.", 


] 
Cost  of  Erection, 

•AOK. 

134 

Sowing  of  Flower  Seeds, 

305 

Sponge,  To  Bleach, 

371 

STAINING  WOODS— 

Directions  for, 

392 

Walnut,  (2  Recipes) 

393 

Black, 

393 

Black,  for  Immediate  Use, 

393 

Ebony,                                          267 

,393 

Cherry, 

393 

STAIRCASES— 

Directions  for  Building, 

51 

Rear  or  Back, 

52 

STAMPING— 

Producing  the  Design, 

240 

Transferring  Design, 

240 

Slate  Roofs, 

79 

Steam  Heating, 

93 

Stem  or  Tent  Stitch  in  Needle-Work, 

237 

Stone-Work, 

163 

Stone  Trimmings  for  Brick  Houses, 

60 

Storm  Doors, 

89 

Straw  Hats,  To  Color, 

370 

Straw  Goods,  To  Bleach, 

371 

Studding, 

78 

Suggestions  on  Building,                   32, 

163 

Suggestions  on  Beautifying  the   Sur- 

roundings at  Little  Expense, 

148 

Summer  Cottage,  How  to  Build, 

143 

Summer  House,  To  Construct, 

146 

Sunlight,  a  House  that  Admits  to  Every 

Room,  (with  ill.) 

125 

Sweating  of  Brick  Walls,  How  to  Pre- 

vent, 

60 

Table-Cover,  Ornamental,  (with  ill.) 
Table  Scarf  in  Darned  Work, 
Tables,  to  Renovate, 
Tanks,  Hints  on, 
Tatted  Doyley, 

Tempering  Secret  of  the  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment, 
Terraces, 
Testing  Cement, 
Tin  Roofs  and  Trimmings, 


PAOK. 

Tidy  on  Linen  Crash,  247 
TOILET  RECIPES— 

Hair  Gloss,  3S2 

Hair  Oil,  882 

Hair  Wash,  882 

Hair  Lotion,  382 

Hair,  To  Beautify  the,  883 

Hair  Brushes,  To  Clean,  3^'S 

Teeth,  To  Beautify  the,  833 

Tooth  Powder,  3s:{ 

Tooth  Wash,  3S3 
Bloom  of  Roses, 

Bloom  of  Youth,  3S3 
Violet  Powder, 

Aromatic  Vinegar,  384 

Camphor  Ice,  :;-t 

Cold  Cream,  3s4 

For  Rough  or  Chapped  Hands,        3S4  ' 

To  Take  Stains  off  the  Skin,  384 

Acacia  Sachet,  3s4 

Pot-Pourri  Sachet  Powder,  385 

Toilet-Stand,  Drapery  for,  299 

Train  Stitch  in  Needle- Work,  257 

Transferring  Designs  for  Embroidery,    240 

TREE  PLANTING— 

Best  Time  for,  202 

Time  for  Removing,  203 

Excellent  Kinds  to  Plant,  205 

Trimmings  and  Roofs,  SO 

Tripods,  268 

Use  up  the  Pieces,  _>1 


60 

Varnish  Brushes, 

17^ 

Varnish  Finish, 

173,  174 

278 

VARNISHES— 

257 

How  to  Varnish  Furniture, 

385 

277 

For  Common  Work, 

3S5 

S6 

Table  Varnish, 

886 

246 

Turpentine  Varnish, 

3?6 

For  Furniture, 

386 

415 

Common, 

386 

189 

White, 

3?6 

71 

Furniture  Polish, 

3-6 

80 

Water-Proof, 

;;-: 

496 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


For  Boots  and  Shoes, 

Golden  Varnish, 

For  Iron-Work, 
Veining  Ingrain-Work, 
Velveteen  Portiere  Coverings, 
Veneer  Brick  and  Stone-Work, 
Ventilation,  How  to  Effect  it,  (with  111.)    94 
Ventilator,  Revolving,  96 

WALL-PAPERS- 


PAGE. 

387 
387 
388 
176 
262 
58 


Instructions  How  to  Hang, 

226 

Sizing  the  Walls, 

227 

Quantity  in  a  Roll, 

227 

How  to  Cut  and  Match, 

228 

To  Make  and  Apply  the  Paste, 

229 

For  Walls  and  Ceilings, 

215 

To  Select  the  Best, 

216 

Hints  on  Choosing,                     217, 

219 

For  Parlor  or  Drawing-Room, 

220 

For  Library, 

221 

For  Bed-Room, 

221 

For  Dining-Room, 

222 

fALLS  AND  CEILINGS— 

General  Remarks,                      214 

215 

Various  Modes  of  Treatment, 

230 

Calcimining, 

230 

Whitewash, 

231 

PAGE. 

Lime-Wash,  231 

Whitewash  for  Brick-Work,  (with 

illustration)  232 

Remedy  for  Damp,  391 

Wardrobe  and  Bedstead  Combined,  29S 
Water-Colors  for  Screen  Decoration,  271 
Wet  or  Damp  Cellars,  How  to  Remedy,  75 
Whiten  Lace,  To,  371 

White  Lead,  Pure,  168 

WINDOWS— 

Adding  of  Bay,  150 

Ground  Glass,  To  Imitate,  881 

Improving  of,  153 

Window  Gardening,  (with  ill.)  327 

WOOD  CARVING— 

Its  Origin  and  History,  351 

Tools  and  How  to  Use  Them,  (with 


illustration.) 
Instruction  in  the  Art, 
Carving  a  Wall  Pocket, 
Relief  Carving, 
Carved  Fret-Work, 
Finishing, 

Wood,  Ebonized, 

Woolens,  To  Dye  all  Colore, 

Zinc, 


352 
354 
357 
359 
360 
362 
267,  382 
367 

ies 


3nPPIiEJJE]WflL  INDEX 


-— <TO: 


:KiriSEIID  IllflOI, 


ANILINE  DYES— 

Magenta,  Crimson,  and  Violet, 

Scarlets,  Cardinals, 

Pink,  Orange, 

Nicholson  Blue, 

Brown,  Yellow,  Green, 
Applique  Design  for  a  Mantel 

or  Window, 
Applique  Design,  Cut  of, 
Art  Amateur,  The, 
Art  of  Preserving  Flowers, 
Art  of  Transferring  Pictures, 

Baby's  Crib,  Cover  for, 
Bags  and  Sachets, 
Barbatin  Ware,  Imitation, 
Basket,  Imitation  Coral, 
Baskets  for  Waste  Paper, 
Border,  Design  for, 
Brush  and  Pigment, 
Bridal  Flowers,  to  Preserve, 
Bowl  Painting', 

Carriage  Rugs, 

Convex  Glass  for  Photo  Painting, 
Coral  Hanging  Basket, 
Colors  in  Arrangement  of  Flowers, 
Corner,  Design  for, 
Crystallizing  Grass, 
Curtains  and  Lambrequin, 
.  Curtains,  Cut  of, 
Crystal  Ambrotypes, 

Decorating  Flower-Pots. 
DESIGNS— 

Fur  a  Border 

For  a  Corner  or  Center  in  Em- 
broidery, 

For  Curtains  and  Lambrequin, 

For  a  Sofa  Pillow, 


rAUB. 

•AUP 

For  a  Mantel  in  Applique  W 

ork, 

284 

366 

For  a  Lace  Lambrequin, 

366,  357 

For  Fish-Scale  Embroidery, 

350 

367 

DECALCOMANIA— 

367 

Its  Uses, 

347 

387,  368 

Materials, 

::i7 

283 

DYES,  ANILINE— 

284 

The  Best, 

366 

342 

Dissolving, 

366 

333 

For  Wool, 

366 

347 

For  Cotton , 

Suggestions, 

36^ 

351 

351 1 

Embroidered  Cover  for  a  Baby's 

Crib, 

37,1 

342 

EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 

351 

Embroidery  with  Pish  S  ales, 

34!) 

352 

Stem  Stitch, 

233 

235 

Blanket  Stitch,  (with  2  ill-.) 

238 

339 

Chain  Stitch,  (with  ill.) 

234 

335 

Twisted  Chain  Stitch,  (with  i 

11.) 

344 

Satin  Stitch,  (with  ill.) 

234 

Knot  Stitch, 

237, 

353 

Herring-Bone  Stitch,  (with  2 

ill.) 

285 

345 

Kensington  Outline  Stitch,  ( 

vith 

351 

illustration) 

236 

336 

Janlna  Stitch,  (with  ill.) 

236 

237 

Basket  Stitch,  (with  ill.) 

237 

336 

Featherstitch,  (with  ill.) 

237 

282 

Plush  Stitch,(with  ill) 

238, 

239 

283 

Elegant  Table,  An, 

352 

34 -> 

Fan  Painting, 

.-!44 

366 

Fun^  for  Flow  cr  Pots, 

Killed  Rugs, 

236 

FLOWERS 

The  Art  of  Pi. 

237 

Arrangement  <>f. 

283 

Flower  Pots,  Decorating, 

344, 

284 

Funeral  Flowers, To  Preserve, 

197 


498 


8  UP  P  LEWI  EN  TA  L  INI  >  EX. 


PASK. 

Glass,  Convex  for  Photos,  345 

Grass,  To  Crystallize,  336 

Herring-Bone  Stitch,  235 

How  to  Paint  Photographs,  345 

How  to  Transfer  Pictures,  ^-IS 

Imitation  Barbatin  ami  Lamoges 

Ware,  342 

Janina  Stitch,  236 

Kensington  Outline  Stitch,  236 

Knot  Stitch,  235 

Lace  Lambrequin,  (with  ill.)  283,  285 

Lambrequin  and  Curtains,  2S2 

Lamoges  Ware,  Imitation,  342 

Lamp-Shades,  354 

LINCRUSTA-WALTON— 

Remarks,  357 

Of  what  Composed,  357 

Its  Uses,  357 

Beauty,  357 

Effects,  358 

Method  of  Applying  to  Walls,  357 

Illustration,  358 

MATERIALS— 

For  Embroidery,  231,  232 
For  Lambrequins  and  Cur- 
tains, 282,  283 
For  Oil  Painting,  339 
For  Photo-Enameling,  345 
For  Transferring  Pictures,  347 

NATURAL  FLOWERS,  TO  PRESERVE- 

Remarks,  333 

By  the  Sand  Process,  333,  334 

By  the  Sulphur  Process,  334 

By  the  Paraffine  Process,  335 


OIL  PAINTING 
Remarks, 


339 


V 

\OK. 

Subjects  for, 

341, 

342 

Materials  Necessary, 

339 

Panels, 

340 

Plaques, 

341 

Silk,  Satin,  and  Plush, 

343 

Imitation  Barbatin  Ware, 

342 

Fans  and  Bowls, 

3-14 

Oval  Picture  Frames, 

351 

Oil  Colors,  A  New  Material  for, 

342 

PAINTING  IN  OIL  COLORS— 

Instructions  in  the  Art, 

339, 

340 

Panels, 

340 

Plaques, 

341 

Plush, 

343 

Pots  for  Flowers, 

344 

Photographs, 

345, 

347 

Pictures,  How  to  Transfer  to 

Wood,  etc., 

347 

Picture  Frames,  To  Make, 

351 

Preserving  Natural  Flowers, 

333 

RUGS— 

Of  Silk  Rags, 

352 

Of  Sheepskin, 

353 

For  Carriages, 

353 

Sand  Process  for  Preserving  Fl 

iwers, 

333 

Sofa  Pillow,  (with  ill.') 

28: 

-284 

Stitches.  Embroidery, 

33S 

-338 

334 


Sulphur  Process  for  Preserving 

Flowers, 

Silks  and  Satin,  To  paint  in  Oil  Colors,   343 
Sheepskins,  To  Tan  and  Color  for 

Rugs,  353 


Table,  How  to  Make, 
Tanning  Sheepskin. 
Transfer  Pictures, 
Tissue  Paper  Lamp-Shades, 

Waste- Paper  Basket, 
Water  Colors, 


352 
353 
347 
354 

352 
344 


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